Uncle-Pekka

Bob, please do not take a big risk in vain. Think what happens in an emergency braking or tight turn in speed... If your battery collapses against engine or walls and terminals do short circuit. Scary... Fire, explosion in worst case. Acid will do damage in engine bay. Hold down bracket is no trouble to make in case you've lost yours. Just friendly advice from a fellow... /unkka

"Say good-bye to old-style floor cluttering shift rod" ...and there's even more! "Air plane vision" windshield + two​ electrically driven windshield wipers! (I must remember to advertise this; Air plane vision on my Dodge, and my other car has Wide angle wrap around Panoramic Vision!)

wow! That's pretty strong words from a midget who cannot reach up the tree! Show me the proof to back that up - Do not recall seeing Chrysler promo "New for 1939 - by request of our mature age lady customers we finally launched the column stick!"... Nah, I think it was John Wayne who was used to hold the bridle ahead and did not want to be seen to reach towards crotch while drivin'... thus he asked for manly way to shift.

Maybe he's waiting the "happy-hour" to end and the clowns exit...

Hmm... Hedge-hog on the fender and a clown reaching from behind? Did you buy this from the photo-shop?

Fred, Super cool design! Where can I buy the shirt? That shirt has the attitude. To "what about us floor shifters?" I say "floor shifters suck - floor is for those who cannot reach the tree!" -unkka

You're welcome! Odd enough, some sources tell, that Walter P Chrysler sold the 201 six blueprints to russians and that they were used as basis to design the 4-banger they used in the GAZ M20. There was also a six used in GAZ trucks and light tank, it was supposed to be a copy of the 201 unit... Let's move on with MoPars: This guy has "all the bells & whistles" - also a proud drivers cap matching with the 'Soto.

Good for you! I trust you saved also the overdrive-script from the trunk lid?

Hi Anders, You can go to the Rockauto.com web pages and search the shocks for the '47 Dodge. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?parttype=2240&a=RSSW1331862&carcode=1331862 Then click on the part number and you will see which other cars use the same shock. E.g. the Monroe 31000 (D24 rear) was used by some Nissan, Toyota and Mitsubishi 1990's models. As per Rockauto Monroe 5752 was also used by early (1951-52) VW Beetle. Hope that this helps. p.s. no common nominator with Volvo nor Saab.

Sirs, the 3rd picture in the 1st posting is not any american car, but Soviet product made by using GAZ M20 car body and some (Polikarpov?) airplane parts. It was a Soviet Union army project in the late 50's. I do not think it ever lead to any practical usable vehicle. It was aimed for tundra travel, but was too unstable, not really steerable. The GAZ M20 "Popeda" car was produced in large number from 1946 to end of 50's, sported ca. 2 litre (129cu.in) flathead inline four. Looked like this:is:

Robert, your cars look great, this is no offence, nor personal, just a fact related to the paint chemistry and the painting process. The difference seen in photos is more related to the light and optics used on photography, also definition well shine is very relative. The fact is that when you have your car repainted with the modern acrylic/poly urethane paints, clearcoated and buffed the outcome is MUCH more "shiny" (less micro roughness on surface, deeper opacity) than achieved in 30's to 50's factory paint process. Further, it's not "good" or "bad" thing to have, it's just a different end result due to different processes. I do not see either any relation to vintage car contest judging. If you are aiming to true to original restoration it does not matter if "points are not taken off due to better than original paint", what matters is are you satisfied with the result yourself. (footnote: FIVA judging do substract points for non-factory spec paint used, i.e. if you had 1920's car painted by polyurethane based paint = points go off) If you aim to true and know by yourself an incorrect material was used, it just may bother you... I am not restoring my car - it would be far beyond my skills and budget. For the most important, I know that's not my path, I would not get the satisfaction corresponding to the trouble required. What I am doing is sort of re-conditioning according to original specification but allowing myself freedom as long as it looks right to me - there is a BIG difference to true restoration. I am also installing some improvements, which of course is strict contradiction to restoration. Does not bother me any. However I know the difference and do respect the ones capable to true restoration. And again, no offence to anyone aimed - I just like to talk about the many sides of our hobby. I also like to observe and consider the different ideologies related to the car hobby, especially when in the net. (Sadly it is a reflection from the fact my garage is too far away where I live - too much thinking, when lacking of doing...) /Uncle-Pekka

I belive it should be quite easy to find those 4D sedan rocker mouldings in the USA, but they are in poor condition. Most available have dents and scratches due to being driven over rocks and curbs. Nice or even acceptable condition is hard to find and expensive when found... However, as Shell pointed out above, the stainless material is possible to be mended by skilled tinsmiths... It's amazing what they can do. Stainless does polish to perfect even after material has been removed by file etc. Just takes skill, experience, time and work, work, work...

Hi again Joey, Can I ask you to do a favor for all of us; Please document your car as much as possible by taking detail photos (for your own archieve). Looking at the first photos of your car, there are plenty of small details as they were original by the factory. In most of our cars the details have been modified due to "restoration", repair or "customizing" over the years. Every now and then some of us is asking what was the original detail here or there... Cheers, Uncle-Pekka

Bingster, You're right. the original 40's-50's factory paint was not as glossy as our modern acrylic paints. When you plan the materials it makes big difference will it be metallic or "plain" color. I painted mine by using 2K single stage, color is dark blue. I am very pleased on the outcome even if I have not (yet) buffed it. I tested buffing in September and found out I will get it as glossy as a new car. My father painted cars professionally in 1960's and 70's, he was as apprentice in local paint shops in 1950's. He told that the paint used commonly in 30's was shellac based, occasionally still used in the 50's. It came out completely matt after spraying and curing. It was the hand buffed to gloss a day or two after the spraying. However, it was never as glossy as modern paints. Some high standard true-to-history restorers still use that shellac based paint, but the talent is very rare today. /Pekka

Great looking tach - I really like the bullet shaped rear cover, where did you get it? Is that 6V unit?

Congratulations Joey! Quite a catch to find such well survived original car these days. I am almost jealous for the mint factory woodgraining on the dash, original door panels, correct original carpets and even the windshield wiper knob in place! Like a top of a cherry! Only one issue I feel I need to warn you before it's too late: You mentioned the ampere meter bouncing wild? Acc. to my experience (in my similar car) the amp meter bounces back & forth the full scale when there's a short circuit somewhere the system. First time I saw that my interior light switch melted and headliner was so close to caugh fire. Thus I recommend you to check the wiring harness for weak insulation, there may be wires with cracked insulation touching each other time by time. Also get a main switch to your battery cable to be able to release it quickly. I keep mine disconnected always when I park and leave the car. Once again, my intention is not spoil your joy, but give a friendly advise on a minor issue, which you will be able to correct quite easily. Enjoy your handsome car and welcome (back) to the forum fellowship! Cheers from snowy Finland, Pekka

Looks like none of the above mentioned sources will help for D24: The D24 center hinge is 30mm wide (could be 1" 3/16) and 35" long Profile appears wider than the above mentioned '32-'34 Dodge, B2 Macks and '35-'37 fords.

So do I Frank! However, nobody raised hand for ever have seen one alive...? Distantly related - even if these may be based on the factory 7-passenger car? DeSoto S-11 ambulances

Thanks for the dimensions & links Roadking! When I followed the Mack forum link, it seemed that in 2010 "Watt's Truck Center" was selling the center hinge for B-model trucks. However, I could not find that in their web-catalog any more. Then continued the forum thread, in 2012 there was name & phone of a supplier who offered the hinge at $300 apiece (!) Finally, in the end of the thread someone recommended ford part 40-16632. I went there and it was the same picture as currently on eBay.... http://www.macsautoparts.com/store/hood-strip-hinge-center-stainless-steel-33-ford-passenger.html Unfortunately neither eBay nor the ford shop gives any dimensions of the profile. Would that be the 3/4" wide profile for ford? (=unfit for Dodge 15/16")

The above comment is valid, P15 moulding will not fit in, neither do the job as hinge. What do you think this would fit: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stainless-Steel-Hood-Strip-Hinge-Center-48-Long-Rat-Hot-Rod-Custom/271724254604?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D28809%26meid%3Dff350b67128345ac906d1b88168256e8%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D351030323909&rt=nc The same seller had another ad for 1936 ford hood hinge. The picture is the same, only lenght for ford is 33". Would the width and depth of the groove be same for D24?

Thanks for all the answers. My conclusion is that I will not strip off the paint of mine. In case I'll find a spare I'll try to buff it off and maybe someday take the spare to be chromed, but will not mess with the only one I currently have. p.s. Yes I know that the part is the backbone of the hood hinge. I took it completely apart when I had to strip the old paint off the hood halves and prepare them for new coat.

May-be... Or maybe he does use the f-word in exess...

Thanks Mark. Yep, I can strip off the paint, but first I need to be sure it is stainless steel. I cannot afford have it chromed... Just wonder why some of the previous owner(s) had it painted... Well, obvious answer would be he did not bother to cover it when the car was oversprayed.

Rick gave the correct answer, but let me elaborate on it. Please see below "fig.2" on the body manual: On my car the tiny door covering the hole where the set screw hides was partially covered by weather stripping. Without this picture in the body manual I would never found it.

looking at the D24 pictures, I start to wonder, should the molding strip between the hood halves be bright? See below. I am asking for the "Custom"-trim car. On mine, it was painted and when I did the re-paint job I painted it once again. Now I wonder if it should be polished stainless as the moldings on the sides of the hood and the fenders? Facts please?