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Uncle-Pekka

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Everything posted by Uncle-Pekka

  1. Also Hemmings covered the accident. https://www.hemmings.com/blog/2017/08/09/five-alarm-fire-causes-extensive-damage-at-country-classic-cars/?refer=news
  2. After searching the cabinets I found my parts book. Looks like there's only one part number for the piston and piston seal, the cylinder end boot as well. Thus the conclusion would be the rubber sealings must be the same for all rear, front upper & lower cylinders, see below page...
  3. Thanks Tim, Yes, mine is the common 4D sedan, thus 11" drums. Now that I take a closer look, the Dorman 12222 says bore 1 1/8, all other say 12" drum, thus the first one would fit all my wheel cylinders. Thanks again, Pekka
  4. It's been years I opened the brake drum, thus I cannot recall the dimensions in detail. The question is; Are the front wheel upper and lower cylinder diameters the same? (thus the rubber sealings would be the same size) See the below "RockAuto" catalog; E.g. WK112 kit would fit "front upper" and rear wheel cylinder, but not "front lower"...? I see front lower has some extra metal pins, but those have much longer life time than the rubber. Thus the question is; If I simply keep 2-3 sets of Dorman 12222 or Raybestos WK112 in by garage drawer, am I equipped to service whichever wheel in my D24? Thanks, Uncle-Pekka
  5. It's been years I opened the brake drum, thus I cannot recall the dimensions in detail. The question is; Are the front wheel upper and lower cylinder diameters the same? (thus the rubber sealings would be the same size) See the below "RockAuto" catalog; E.g. WK112 kit would fit "front upper" and rear wheel cylinder, but not "front lower"...? I see front lower has some extra metal pins, but those have much longer life time than the rubber. Thus the question is; If I simply keep 2-3 sets of Dorman 12222 or Raybestos WK112 in by garage drawer, am I equipped to service whichever wheel in my D24? Thanks, Uncle-Pekka
  6. Hi T-bag, Is it like the one offered by Summit Racing? See below?
  7. Thanks! I guess I'll be first replacing only the outer bushings. When having the outer bushing off, I suppose it will be easy to check the inner shaft play when there's no load in it?
  8. Casper, I've been painting those engraved texts using the method familiar from scale model painting, commonly referred as "black washing" (In this case "white washing..???) Anyway it is based on capillary attraction of the paint, thus the paint needs to be just correct thinned - about the same as for air brush. Use thin point brush and lightly touch the tip to the bottom of the letter, the paint will run down the groove and fill it nicely. You probably need to do the top and bottom part of a letter by two touch. A scale model enamel paint is easy to work with, Humbrol or Tamiya are the best quality available commonly. Also One Shot striping enamel should do good. You will need to do it a couple of time to get the touch, but with enamels it is safe, since you can easily wipe the excess off with a rag and turpentine.
  9. Excessive play was found in the upper control arm joint. I am preparing to replace the upper outer bushings as they seem to had worn loose. However, I'd like to learn from you, are there any other issues in the front suspension I should check at the same time? Also the best way to do the replacement to avoid pitfalls, Obviously I will be messing the camber angle when replacing the bushings - any tricks to do it smart way? Any tips to adjust the camber without special tools?
  10. Please tell Mr. Asche my belated greetings; Happy Birthday & Good health for years to come! Kind regards, Uncle-Pekka from Finland
  11. That's clever - must try - Thanks!
  12. Continuing the previous, warbird theme... Fokker XXI fought in the Spanish civil war 1936. By 1940 it was considered out-dated. However, it was the back-bone of the Finnish air force in the winter war 1939-40, and we got hundreds of wins agains Russians P.S. I hope you know the background of the swastika in the finnish air force ensign? It is far older to the Nazi swastika... Originally it's the symbol of swedish noble-mans family; Count von Rosen presented the first fighter plane to Finnish Army as a gift; It was a Thulin typ D and year was 1918. The Air Force took the swastika symbol to honor Count von Rosen and used it until 1945. 1918 Thulin typ D, design licenced by Morane Saulnier
  13. There should be no doubt if you know any history. WW2 for sure (have you not seen the airplanes of WW1 era? - wooden frames covered by canvas, mostly bi-planes) The brittish Spad XIII was considered the most modern of the WW1 era, see bottom photo. Messerschmitt BF 109 was introduced just before the war 1937 and flew until collapse of Germany. Horses were used to pull artillery and suppliers in every ww2 war front in Europe. Poland had big cavalry which was slaughtered by german tanks & light artillery in 1939. Also Finland relied on horses to provide supplies and support to army deep in the woods and wilderness.
  14. No comments to my above "find" - thus I confess, it's OFF TOPIC by all means but an interesting photo of an old car... It was a German prototype, 1952 Haller Taifun. Looks like they took it to USA for promotion tour right after it was made. No idea where it ended and was there any successor to it...?
  15. ^ @ Don, Well, I bought 3+3 headers (original cut in two parts) from G.Asche, thus for sure there will be no heat riser once I get them installed. The intake, however, is yet an open case. As told I've been looking the new twin carb AoK, but it's not available yet.
  16. Well, I already bought split headers from George Asche (the freight to Finland is lenghty story, incorporated to a car import project, looking fwd to see them in March...) The intake #1 choice would be vintage Edmunds, shared 1st place the new AoK production. However, these are not currently available, thus there is a secret plan B, which will only be published if successfull... The coming summer 2016, I'm mentally prepared to run the original factory setup with the leaks mended. If I get lucky, I just might upgrade "in the middle of the season"...
  17. Thanks, What I plan to do is the same as Greg has done. Aim to get rid of the exhaust leaks due to worn out riser mechanism. With a bit of a luck I will up grade to double carb set up with 3+3 headers within an year or so... In that case I also need to run without heated intake, because the twin carb units I'm considering do not support exhaust heating.
  18. I've been running my car now many years with a shot heat riser... Manual close open and leaking valve. Now that the manifold is off for winter overhaul I consider removing the riser and putting blind shut off plate in between the exhaust and intake manifold. I run my car only at summer and warm weather. Do I need the heat riser at all?
  19. 75% right answers - I mostly failed on Fords... and late 50's MoPars! Thanks for sharing - enjoyable!
  20. Of European makes, I considered the below one, mid-50's Skoda 1200, but the windshield on the car in the photo is clearly taller - It's not Skoda.
  21. 1946-48 Frazer? Or simply 1946-48 Ford? - the light may suppress some features from visibility.
  22. The photo is bad by lightning from the start, also resolution. However, I cannot make it a Volvo anyhow. Besides, as far as I know there was not model called P-40 in past... Would not know for the present. There's V40, may be some variant(?) In the 50's there were PV444 and PV544, below the early PV444
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