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Uncle-Pekka

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Everything posted by Uncle-Pekka

  1. Uncle-Pekka

    Electrical issues

    Hi 49wind - Did you mentioned, that your ampere meter was "clicking"? I've noticed that it does clicking noises (and whips needle from zero to full) if there's a short circuit somewhere in the system. Notice, that there are no fuses for starter, generator nor for the lights. Check all the wiring and replace every suspicious cable. The ones for courtesy lights are the hardest to follow. Unfortunately they are also most prone for short circuit by loosing insulative cover, because they run between the roof and head liner where it gets very hot due the sun.
  2. Uncle-Pekka

    230 and trans

    ^ Yes, I kind of understood, the seller is seeking certain audience by using those tags, but if the engine was not fast/reliable enough for a 40's Dodge (in his opinion), how come to push it for a "rod" ? (I just hope the poor six will find it's way back to 40's mopar car - IMO it would serve the best there) I knew these were used for industrial applications, also in forklifts, but the tractor was news for me. Which brand farm tractors have had 230 six?
  3. Sold for $1226 - Looks like a great deal
  4. Uncle-Pekka

    53 DeSoto on FB

    It says "closed group" and "Join this group to see the discussion, post and comment." Probably you need to be a member of this FB "group" to be able to view any content there? I'm not good with FB, though. What if you download a couple of photos and cut&paste the listing here?
  5. Uncle-Pekka

    230 and trans

    "Rat rod mopar antique mopar flat head tractor motor 3.8" ...???
  6. Alternative replies: a.) Yes - a very rare accessory in 1938 b.) Yes, it definetely drops the value of the car below $2000 c.) Yes, but I'd rather had the cylinder head instead of the shock
  7. Uncle-Pekka

    1942 chrysler windsor

    Congratulations for the awesome find, Monsieur Adrian! I like the 1942 C the best of all 40's Mopars, it has clean design, the best looking front end and the coolest brightwork. The 40's Mopars drive as good as any 50's US car and the flathead engines are reliable as work horse. Grab it, enjoy it, and keep us posted! The P15-D24 forum is the best web page for any informatio or advise you possible will ever need. Welcome to our crowd!
  8. Uncle-Pekka

    Old car heaven

    Mouth watering Mopars, indeed! Great collection. Would be very interesting auction to attend.
  9. Uncle-Pekka

    Interesting photos I have run across.

    Never seen such set up live. Would you care to share the story behind this picture? I'd be interested. The lathe is small, for a particular purpose? I guess it takes power from the car transmission? Is there a special clutch or do you need to jack up the rear end while turning...?
  10. Uncle-Pekka

    How to keep the mice away?

    Cats. The. Only. Logical. Answer.
  11. Uncle-Pekka

    Fire at Country Classic cars

    Also Hemmings covered the accident. https://www.hemmings.com/blog/2017/08/09/five-alarm-fire-causes-extensive-damage-at-country-classic-cars/?refer=news
  12. It's been years I opened the brake drum, thus I cannot recall the dimensions in detail. The question is; Are the front wheel upper and lower cylinder diameters the same? (thus the rubber sealings would be the same size) See the below "RockAuto" catalog; E.g. WK112 kit would fit "front upper" and rear wheel cylinder, but not "front lower"...? I see front lower has some extra metal pins, but those have much longer life time than the rubber. Thus the question is; If I simply keep 2-3 sets of Dorman 12222 or Raybestos WK112 in by garage drawer, am I equipped to service whichever wheel in my D24? Thanks, Uncle-Pekka
  13. Uncle-Pekka

    Detail question on the wheel cylinder rubber sealings

    After searching the cabinets I found my parts book. Looks like there's only one part number for the piston and piston seal, the cylinder end boot as well. Thus the conclusion would be the rubber sealings must be the same for all rear, front upper & lower cylinders, see below page...
  14. Uncle-Pekka

    Detail question on the wheel cylinder rubber sealings

    Thanks Tim, Yes, mine is the common 4D sedan, thus 11" drums. Now that I take a closer look, the Dorman 12222 says bore 1 1/8, all other say 12" drum, thus the first one would fit all my wheel cylinders. Thanks again, Pekka
  15. Uncle-Pekka

    Detail question on the wheel cylinder rubber sealings

    It's been years I opened the brake drum, thus I cannot recall the dimensions in detail. The question is; Are the front wheel upper and lower cylinder diameters the same? (thus the rubber sealings would be the same size) See the below "RockAuto" catalog; E.g. WK112 kit would fit "front upper" and rear wheel cylinder, but not "front lower"...? I see front lower has some extra metal pins, but those have much longer life time than the rubber. Thus the question is; If I simply keep 2-3 sets of Dorman 12222 or Raybestos WK112 in by garage drawer, am I equipped to service whichever wheel in my D24? Thanks, Uncle-Pekka
  16. Uncle-Pekka

    More Miller Factory Tools

    More Miller tools...
  17. Uncle-Pekka

    1930 Dodge "off road" promo video

    "True Spirit of Motoring!"
  18. Uncle-Pekka

    Offy dual intake

    Hi T-bag, Is it like the one offered by Summit Racing? See below?
  19. Excessive play was found in the upper control arm joint. I am preparing to replace the upper outer bushings as they seem to had worn loose. However, I'd like to learn from you, are there any other issues in the front suspension I should check at the same time? Also the best way to do the replacement to avoid pitfalls, Obviously I will be messing the camber angle when replacing the bushings - any tricks to do it smart way? Any tips to adjust the camber without special tools?
  20. Uncle-Pekka

    Replacing D24 upper control arm outer bushings

    Thanks! I guess I'll be first replacing only the outer bushings. When having the outer bushing off, I suppose it will be easy to check the inner shaft play when there's no load in it?
  21. Uncle-Pekka

    Dash knob repaint?

    Casper, I've been painting those engraved texts using the method familiar from scale model painting, commonly referred as "black washing" (In this case "white washing..???) Anyway it is based on capillary attraction of the paint, thus the paint needs to be just correct thinned - about the same as for air brush. Use thin point brush and lightly touch the tip to the bottom of the letter, the paint will run down the groove and fill it nicely. You probably need to do the top and bottom part of a letter by two touch. A scale model enamel paint is easy to work with, Humbrol or Tamiya are the best quality available commonly. Also One Shot striping enamel should do good. You will need to do it a couple of time to get the touch, but with enamels it is safe, since you can easily wipe the excess off with a rag and turpentine.
  22. Uncle-Pekka

    The Grand Master Turns 85 today !

    Please tell Mr. Asche my belated greetings; Happy Birthday & Good health for years to come! Kind regards, Uncle-Pekka from Finland
  23. Uncle-Pekka

    New (to me) trick

    That's clever - must try - Thanks!
  24. Uncle-Pekka

    Interesting photos I have run across.

    Continuing the previous, warbird theme... Fokker XXI fought in the Spanish civil war 1936. By 1940 it was considered out-dated. However, it was the back-bone of the Finnish air force in the winter war 1939-40, and we got hundreds of wins agains Russians P.S. I hope you know the background of the swastika in the finnish air force ensign? It is far older to the Nazi swastika... Originally it's the symbol of swedish noble-mans family; Count von Rosen presented the first fighter plane to Finnish Army as a gift; It was a Thulin typ D and year was 1918. The Air Force took the swastika symbol to honor Count von Rosen and used it until 1945. 1918 Thulin typ D, design licenced by Morane Saulnier
  25. Uncle-Pekka

    Interesting photos I have run across.

    There should be no doubt if you know any history. WW2 for sure (have you not seen the airplanes of WW1 era? - wooden frames covered by canvas, mostly bi-planes) The brittish Spad XIII was considered the most modern of the WW1 era, see bottom photo. Messerschmitt BF 109 was introduced just before the war 1937 and flew until collapse of Germany. Horses were used to pull artillery and suppliers in every ww2 war front in Europe. Poland had big cavalry which was slaughtered by german tanks & light artillery in 1939. Also Finland relied on horses to provide supplies and support to army deep in the woods and wilderness.
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