MacGyver

With all due respect, you are one clever M'er F'er!

Welcome aboard! Where are you located?

Looking good though, brother. That's a great pic of your daughter in the trunk; sweet sheet metal in there as well. Take your time and have fun with it and remember to get a few wrenches into her hands along the way!

@40desoto Looks like we're coming up on that 50th birthday! How's it going; Did you make some good progress?

Nice work! Thanks for the update. Keep 'em coming as you move forward.

For my last exhaust project I picked up all the pipe on my own, made careful measurements of bend locations and degrees and ends to be expanded (double and triple checked), and marked up the pipe. I took the works to a local shop and tossed them a few bucks to make the bends as I watched/instructed. When I got home I slapped it all together and welded it up. I don't know if that is an option for you but just thought I'd throw it out there. Heck, you could even use swimming pool noodles for about $1 each to mock it all up and make sure your routing is sound before moving on to the pipe.

Looks GREAT! Keep it up!

I love it, man! Awesome work. Following this thread has been very motivating for me. And I dig the color. It's darn near the same as my 1934 Harley. Keep up the good work!

I don't want to send you on a goose chase but on my '48 D-24 the number is stamped on the inner driver's side frame rail just in front of the rear axle. That number can then be deciphered for build location, etc

As with most things, success with bed liner is all about the prep-work. Follow the instructions and you'll be a happy camper; cut corners and you may find the liner peeling off before you know it.

Soak, heat, beat, repeat! Here's the 'study' that always gets referenced in these discussions. "Machinist's Workshop" recently published information on various penetrating oils. The magazine reports they tested these products for "break out "torque" on rusted nuts and bolts. A subjective test was made of popular penetrating oils, with the unit of merit being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" bolt. Average torque load to loosen nut: No Oil used ........................516 foot pounds WD-40 ..................... ........238 foot pounds PB Blaster .........................214 foot pounds Liquid Wrench ......................127 foot pounds Kano Kroil .........................106 foot pounds ATF/Acetone mix...................... 53 foot pounds The ATF/Acetone mix is a "home brew" mix of 50/50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note this "home brew" released bolts better than any commercial product in this one particular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a batch, and we all now use it with equally good results. Note also that Liquid Wrench is almost as good as Kroil for 20% of the price. ATF/Acetone mix is best, but you can also use ATF and lacquer thinner in a 50/50 mix. ATF = Any type of Automatic Transmission Fluid"

Hey EPiX, I don't want to derail your thread here but, is this you from the Soviet Steeds forum? http://www.sovietsteeds.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=34860 I really enjoyed that report! Looks like we're cut from the same cloth. Keep the posts coming here; I'm looking forward to following your progress.

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I agree. Have it. Love it. Highly recommend it... And zero problems on all fronts, from ordering, shipping, setup, or usage over the last few years.

I honed and rebuilt some of mine but the ones that were too pitted needed replacement. I ordered through www.rockauto.com though I cannot recall which brand I purchased. They had the best price I could find and the part was as expected and has served perfectly for the last 2 years (so far so good). They recently emailed me a 5% discount code if you decide to purchase through them. Enter at checkout: 2311114421253610