rearview

Saw this for sale this morning.... http://racine.craigslist.org/cto/1284448369.html

Follow the link... they are the shortest shocks made... http://www.peteandjakes.com/parts/parts_dept/shocks.htm Item #2084

http://www.peteandjakes.com/parts/parts_dept/shocks.htm Item #2084 Or.. snowmobile shocks....

I think this one is a much better value... http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/cto/1225428807.html LOL>>> I am shameless>>>LOL

Is the swap open to all or only POC folks? I want to peddle my Dodge... and it would be a perfect place...

Cool. Done... circle milled to 2.800. 5 or 4.5 bolt pattern and 1.5" narrower track. New rear is D44, trac-loc, 3.54 gears. Now... when I pop this motor... it's ready for V8. Old rear had way too much gear. This should make it a bit easier on the flathead. Thanks again for all your help!!

OK.. Thanks Tim. The axle and wheels are lug aligned... so all is good. Need to blow them down to 2.800". I'm at an even 3.0 right now. Good thing I asked... would have been slightly... ummm.. upset. Thanks again Tim.. saved me a ton of work.

... but i've got a Dana 44 out of a scout that I just cut down... not sure of the center is the same or not... forgot to measure before i left. Ooops

Thanks Tim.. appreciate the effort. Don't want to pop the shaft out of the machine unless I know it's ok.

come on... please???

does anybody know the diameter of the boss on the end of the axle or the size of the hole in the middle of the wheel for a 52 Dodge Wayfarer? Should be the same for all cars. I'm just finishing putting together a different rear axle, but unsure if I need to machine the boss smaller... and my car is an hour and a half away... Thanks in advance... Bob

The big body Impala SS's have a following due to being the jump back into a "new" muscle car era. You got this big brash car, LT1 motor, decent gearing, excellent comfort and road manners matched with fairly decent fuel economy. Plus, it was a step UP from the police package, which raised a lot of eyebrows at the time. The cars modify EXTREMELY easy, it is hard to find one stock. Quite simple to bump it from the stock 260 hp to over 400, and retain the mpg. Plus, they have a good, mean look to them. It's kind of a barbarian with a black tie.

For that car the price is right there, especially considering the low miles. He'll probably get $9500-10,000 for it in reality. People snap them things up, provided it's an original Impala SS and not just a converted Caprice. They're quite the wolf in sheep's clothing... a blast to drive. Grampa's grocery getter with a bad attitude problem.

The one that was one ebay was a suck through unit, not a blow through. It used an industrial exhaust manifold (blows upward) and ford turbo coupe hair dryer set on it. It looked like a nice little setup actually, I got outbid on it. Need a touch of refining, but the idea had potential for a good low-boost unit for a stock CR motor, provided you could get past the lean bog condition you *will* get with that setup. I'vethough about giving it a whirl myself, but my junk is running too good right now to mess with.

The EC444 will not fit, neither will the other. The system seems do be designed for non-fluid drive cars. The rear mounts for the bell housing are right where it all needs to go. I gave up with them, put the stuff in a box, and it's still sitting in my office.. been there a couple years now. The disc parts are fine, but the stalling and stuff, insisting the kit will fit even after hey see the pics was a bit much for me.

Also, make sure the rod from the booster to the MC is allowing the MC to return full stroke.

Check your PM's....

My local Bumper to Bumper sells it in one gallon cans.

Nice car... too bad about the paint.. ewww.

My trans is from a non-fluid drive car... that is why it's not in use...

I've got one at my shop in Wauconda... trans, bell housing, used clutch, pressure plate. $100 for all of it.

Is it approprite to comment on the stupidity of that design? :D

Looking at a tranny I have here, I think that lower cable is supposed to be a linkage rod. That is for the selector, it needs to be maintained in position. Can anyone confirm this?

Wow... that "nut job" on the cable area is ghetto-fabulous. I'd guess that is where the problem lies... wrong length cable, maybe not putting car into gear all the way... making the teeth chatter if not full engaged into gear. If you put it into 3rd, does it pull that "nutty mess" ? If so, you can try manually engaging it further and see if it changes the symptom. That thing doens't have OD, does it?? Be patient... there's plenty of folks in this area... let me check my schedule. I live near the state line (the cheddar curtain) and work in Wauconda. EDIT: If this is the same trans as a 48, I've got a spare that came with the motor I jsut bought.

Grand Cherokee rears are hit or miss. The Dana 35's are wimpy... crappy weak C-clip axles... so if you've got a big motor, I'd think twice. Recipe for disaster. The Dana 44's are stronger, but there was a load of problems with the aluminum versions.... bearing bores misalignments, easy to score, tubes out of alignment, etc. You can take a non-grand cherokee D44 and add the Grand's rear disks, or there are kits to add them to the D35, 8.25's etc. Check the Jeep boards for info. There are a zillion different ways to do it. Better and stronger swap is the explorer disk brake rear. Stronger and the better brakes are there already. Plentiful in the boneyards.. usually 3.73's and easy to find with factory limited slips. Last one I got for $75 on half price day at pick 'n pull.... 3.73's and limited slip, with driveshaft end.