Merle Coggins

Have you backed off all of the adjustments? Could your shoes be oversize?

That reminds me of my first test drive. Looks like you had warmer weather.

Looks like the two cables with the metal ends would go between a plug wire and the plug. Connect the plug wire onto one end and the other one goes onto the plug. The other two, alligator clips would go to the battery. 6v or 12v... can't tell from the picture. Merle

A little information about how spark plugs work, and the differences between "cold" and "Hot" plugs. http://auto.howstuffworks.com/ignition-system2.htm Merle

Maybe this will help you understand how your differential works. http://auto.howstuffworks.com/differential.htm Merle

beyert99, I like the Green & Gold idea. (GO PACKERS!!) It would be a hit around here, but be carefull if you take it down across the border. Dutch, That's a beautiful truck. I've thought that from the first picture that you posted of it.

The paint scheme on the "Spring Specials" is nice, although I've only seen black & white photos. There's just something about the red on white combo used in that truck that I don't like. But again opinions are like @$$holes... everyone's got one.

I don't like that paint scheme either. Either our trucks are getting more valuable, or these people are crazy. Merle

Nice! Your truck goes up to 140? Mine only goes to 80. :D

For the temp gauge... yes, remove the bushing from the head. The capillary bulb will be stuck in side that. On the front pully... As "oldmopar" says, you'll have to remove the nut/bolt and use a puller to get the pully off. Again, I don't remember the size of the nut either. On the plug issue... That is a hole for a dipstick. Your dipstick should be in the oil pan. There should be a cup plug in that hole that looks something like this one

What do you mean by "the fuel pump holes are not alligned"? Here's a picture of my 218 block. How is yours different? If yours is indeed a 251 it is probably a long block. Measure the length of the head. The 218's and 230's are 23" long. The long block engines are 25" long.

Welcome Scruffy, sounds like a good project. I like the family connection. Makes it more interesting.

Front wheel cylinders should have a stepped bore. I don't recall the diameters, and I don't have my manual handy right now. For some reason I'm remembering 1 1/8" and 1/3/16", but don't quote me in that. Merle

As I recall, black would be correct for your '48, and as Reg says it'll look better than the cream color. Mine were the cream color and are still. I just got them stripped and repainted. Hopefully the tires will go on this week. Merle

I believe I read in Don Bunn's book that some late '49 models were designated with an "X" as sort of a pre-1950 model. Ron, welcome to the Pilot-House world and this forum. I suggest you pick up a copy of this book. Lots of good info about these trucks. I believe it'll even explain the "X".

Hopefully you got a baby Naugah. They've got the best hyde.

The extra hole in pic #2 would be blocked by your engine block if you don't have internal bypass. You gasket will seal it off. The other extra ports are for other optional positions for the heater hose connection. And as Ed explained, the upper port difference is so that it can be used with either internal or external bypass engines. It appears to be a universal water pump that can be used with eithee bypass type. Bolt 'er up and go for it. Merle

Got any sauce for all that spaghetti?

She may have started with a picture of it, or she just drew it up. Either way she does up the art work on her 'puter then prints it out, with a special printer, onto the vinyl material. Then it's applied and smoothed out. She does some awesome work. She does a lot of design work from scratch for many of her customers. Merle

I've seen deer behind my house, here in town. I also know that there are coyotes back in that area too, I can hear them from time to time. It's a buffer zone around a limestone quarry, so it's not exactly ultra urban. I grew up in northern Wisconsin where black bear were common. Maybe this one is migrating out to my neighborhood to thin out the coyotes. He don't scare me Norm... Maybe I'll hit him with my truck and make you a new Bear skin cap. Merle

I suggest that you print out a copy of the color chips on the DEPTCA site. They are listed in the "Pilot's Knowledge" section. Here's the link http://dodgepilothouseclub.org/know/color/imgcol/index.htm I took a copy of that to my local DuPont paint dealer. They had to call someone to have that old Dulux number converted, but then they had the modern color code and it's a perfect match. I even took in my glove box door for a match and it matched perfectly to the chip of the new number. So, bottom line... they should be able to match the original color. It may take a phone call or two to get the conversions from the old numbers, but it can be done. Merle

There you go Reg. Supplemental income for your "early" retirement. Just think of all the "patterns" you have to work with in your yard.

Just to update you all regarding my gauge referbisment. I was out at my friend's sign shop the other day and I was telling her about the rave reviews that she got from you guys. I then asked her what it would cost to do more. She though about it for a moment and then figured that it would probably be around $40-$50. But, she also said that she wasn't interested in doing a bunch of them. These little things aren't cost effective for her business and she will only do them for friends and family. She mostly does larger car, truck, and trailer wraps, or other vehicle signage. She also does banners and other signs for business. Here's her web site http://www.blastgraphicsllc.com/index.html If you have a similar vinyl sign/vehicle graphics business in your area it might be worth a trip in there with your gauges to see if they can do a similar thing to yours. I'm sorry I can't help you guys out more. I would have loved to be able to tell you to send my your gauges and I'd have her fix you up. But I'd rather keep our friendship in tact. On a similar note, I also found this site for a source of the eyelets that hold the front bezels to the gauge housings. http://www.eleathersupply.com/fasteners.shtml I used the 1/4" Nickel Finish eyelets. A package of 100 eyelets with the setting tools was about $12 plus shipping. I had to drill out the holes about 1/32" bigger (with a step drill bit) for the eyelets to fit, but it looks like the original when done. Good luck with your gauge restorations. Merle

Good luck with that stud. Now that you've welded on it, it's gonna be awefully hard for drilling. Keep at it. You'll get it eventually.