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Merle Coggins

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Everything posted by Merle Coggins

  1. Merle Coggins

    1954 Plymouth Suburban Project

    Should be the same setup as our trucks have. Outer seal is dust seal for the bearing, inner seal is oil seal for the axle oil.
  2. Merle Coggins

    Cracked Manifold

    Today I’m doing some misc. maintenance on my truck in preparation for my trip to Chattanooga, TN in a few weeks. While putsing around under the hood I noticed that the carb mounting nuts were loose. As I was retightening them, and checking all of the manifold nuts, I noticed a crack in the exhaust manifold. 😧 I don’t see any soot accumulation so it doesn’t appear to be leaking exhaust through it, but I guess the hunt is on now for a replacement. This isn’t a job I really want to tackle right now. Depending on how soon I find a rear dump manifold it may have to wait until after the trip. Hopefully it’ll hold up for another couple thousand miles.
  3. Merle Coggins

    1954 Plymouth Suburban Project

    That seal is just a dust seal for the grease packed wheel bearing. The oil seal in inboard of the bearing.
  4. Merle Coggins

    Cracked Manifold

    OEM drag links are fixed length and ball joints are not replaceable. DCM Classics are reproducing them with tie rod ends so that they are replaceable and adjustable.
  5. Merle Coggins

    Cracked Manifold

    I didn’t look at their movement while installed, and once removed there doesn’t seem to be excessive movement in the joints. I figured that since it was still the original piece it was probably worth the effort. Plus the adjustable ends allowed me to re-center the steering wheel. It was a little off since doing the disc brake conversion because of the steering arms moving inward to fit the caliper brackets. And I didn’t do any measurements before and after the drag link change, only after that and the steering box slack adjustment. I’m wishing I had done this years ago. The steering is much more responsive and easier to drive down the highway.
  6. Merle Coggins


    Yup.. like they said. It's a capacitor. They are used to suppress electric interference for radios.
  7. Just had a look at them. I don't have an addition suggestion at this time, but I did notice a typo in the PM FAQ. I believe you meant 'sending' instead of 'ending' in the last sentence. Once corrected feel free to delete this post, as it would no longer have any relevance.
  8. Merle Coggins


    Yes, Dennis had a Ford Ranger bumper on his truck when he got it. He then came across a complete frame with a front bumper and used that to make his truck right again. The Ranger bumper looked OK, but it was too short. But frankendodge is asking about a rear bumper...
  9. Merle Coggins

    Part numbers 48 plymouth

    Rear race? I assume you are refering to a bearing race, but which one?
  10. Merle Coggins

    Mustang gas tank question

    As Mike said, the rear cross members add structural support for the spring mounts. If you move them you risk added stress points in your frame rails due to the loads on the spring attachment points. This isn't the best picture, but it's the best one I have that shows both cross members and their location at the spring mounts.
  11. Merle Coggins

    Cracked Manifold

    All done... Glad I did this before the trip. I got an early start this morning. Was out in the garage around 6:30. Got the steering box adjusted right away and was on to the manifold job by 8:00. I thought I was going to have a delay for a supply run. I wanted to grease the front suspension components before lowering it down, but my grease gun was empty. I dug out my second grease gun and it had just enough to grease the front end. Delay avoided... The manifold sway went fairly smoothly. I had 3 studs come out, so I had to drain the coolant. It was 3 with the conical nuts and cupped washers. It took a fair amount of heat to break the bond between the nuts and studs, but they finally loosened up and were reusable. The good part about that was that those areas were easier to clean up the old gasket material without having to work around the studs. A little sealer on the threads and it all went back together without any fuss. Had it running by 10:30. Got things cleaned up and backed it out of the garage for a test drive. Needed to run some errands anyway, including a stop at Fleet Farm for grease. Runs great. Steering is awesome now. Much easier to drive now. It smoked quite a bit at first until all of the gunk was burned out of the replacement manifold, but that cleared up fairly quickly. When I got back home I jacked up the rear and greased the rear suspension and driveline. All good to go now. A BIG thank you again to Todd for hooking me up with the manifold. The crack was worse than I expected. Red arrows are pointing at the ends. Wouldn’t have been long before it was a 2 piece manifold. All done... and retorqued after running it for a few minutes, and again after my errand run/test drive.
  12. Merle Coggins

    51 engine number

    I believe what you are calling the valve cover is indeed the head, unless you have something besides a flathead Mopar engine in there.
  13. OK, back up a bit here... Wire off the ignition switch goes to the ballast resistor, same terminal as the flasher feed. Yes? The wire at the other end of the ballast resistor is the one that goes to the + terminal of the coil? And this one has 12 volts all the time, or just with key on? Wire going to the distributor/points should be on the opposite terminal of the power source regardless. This is wrong if it is also on the + terminal. Move it to the - terminal. Now that I know you have a pos. ground system the negative 12v at the coil terminals makes more sense. With no completion to ground through the points you will read 12 volts, even through it is going through the ballast resistor and the coil primary circuit. This is because there is no current flow. It is only potential voltage. Remove the wire going to the distributor and use your meter in the Ohms setting to check for continuity to ground. While testing this remove the distributor cap and inspect the points. When the points are closed you should have continuity to ground on the distributor wire/terminal. When the points are open there will be no continuity. If no continuity with the points closed you will need to do some more investigation within the distributor. Possibly a bad internal wire or burned points that are not truly making contact.
  14. Yes, I'm confused now too. You have a 12 volt system that is positive ground? That's quite strange. I don't know why someone would go to the work of upgrading to 12 volts system and not switch to the more common negative ground. I'd be switching that if it were mine. So, you are saying the the wire from the - terminal of the coil goes to the push-button switch and then to what appears to be your starter solenoid? Again quite strange. Are you sure it's a ground terminal on the solenoid? Have you used that button for anything since owning the car? As for the + terminal, you say one wire is always 12v hot, and one goes down to the distributor terminal? That wouldn't make any sense either. You'd be sending voltage directly to the points. Whenever the points close it would be a direct short on the 12 v power source. And the wires going to the carburetors appear to be powering up electric choke coils. Those would need power when the key is on. Based on this information I'm surprised that it even ran in the first place.
  15. Merle Coggins

    51 engine number

    Could be a number from an aftermarket engine rebuilder/supplier. What size engine? What are the casting dates on the block and/or head?
  16. Merle Coggins

    Cracked Manifold

    Got a couple hours in the garage tonight as my wife and mother were out and about, leaving me home alone. All cleaned up and ready to mount... once the paint cures. Saturday morning I want to adjust the free play in the steering box. Between that and a new drag link I’m hoping to remove all of the free play in the steering wheel. Then I can get the front end back on the ground and tackle the manifold change. If all goes well I’ll be test driving it by noon.
  17. Merle Coggins

    49 B1B drive shaft length

    Which transmission? I believe the 3 speed trans is a bit shorter than the 4 speed, which would require a different length driveshaft.
  18. Merle Coggins

    1942 Dodge WC

    If you have a canister that takes the sock type filter the Napa / Wix brand can be a very tight fit. I have found that if you roll it on a hard surface, like rolling out dough, it'll get a little thinner. However, if you want to end the struggle go find a Baldwin JC405. They are a much better fit.
  19. Merle Coggins

    512 cid C series on Dakota chassis- build thread

    Sounds like you have a good handle on it.
  20. Merle Coggins

    Ignition Information needed Please

    And if that's the case, you could wire the kickdown switch to a relay to interrupt the voltage feed to the Pertronix unit and achieve the same effect.
  21. Merle Coggins

    WC and Pilot House

    Ah, yes... been there... Up Nort...
  22. Merle Coggins

    Updates on my 1940 Windsor!

    Do you have nuts welded on the inside for attaching to the carbs and manifold, or do you have spacers inside to support using through bolts?
  23. Merle Coggins

    WC and Pilot House

    The forum originated as Pilot-House.com forum, for B-series truck owners. And even in the beginning (when I got in anyway) there were some that owned older, or newer, trucks. As you have eluded to, there are many shared technologies, and yet many different ones too. As more and more early and later truck owners joined, the forum name was changed recently to represent all early Mopar trucks. One of the most active WC owners on here is Young Ed in Minneapolis. What part of MN are you in?
  24. Merle Coggins

    Truck stuff for the Man Cave etc....

    Makes sense to me. I'm typically a classic rock guy, but when I'm cruising around in the Ol' Dodge I like to tune into '50's music.
  25. So, if your black test lead was on the positive post of the battery then you have a grounded out ignition ciucuit. Based on that info, and the two pictures of meter and coil test, both terminals are grounded. Trace out those wires on the + terminal of the coil. Or disconnect them and test each one individually to find which one is grounded out. If one of the wires on the + side is going to the distributor case, that would likely be going to your points. The points are the ground for the coil and should be on the - side, assuming negative ground system. If it has an electronic ignition module in there then that would change things considerably. Where does the wire on the - side go?

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