Merle Coggins

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Everything posted by Merle Coggins

  1. I don't think I have that much room with my 4 speed trans. Does the ratio stay the same in straight through mode?
  2. I always did mine in the truck. Remove cap and rotor, connect dwell meter, with key on, and in neutral, reach down and engage the starter lever by hand... read dwell meter.
  3. Do you have a timing light, or the tools necessary to static time it? If the timing is off it may start but lack power and stumble badly. I would also reset my points with a dwell meter after the initial gap adjustment. It gives a more accurate setting. Keep in mind that adjusting the points will change the ignition timing, even if you haven't moved the distributor.
  4. My ground cable goes to one of the trans cover bolts. As long as you have a ground cable/strap/wire going from the power train to the chassis you'll be fine.
  5. Need a big weed burner torch.
  6. If you have spark at the spark plugs your condenser is OK. You either don't have spark at the right time, or you're not getting the right amount of fuel. The first time I started mine I had a similar thing. It wanted to go, but not quite. I cracked the throttle open slightly and it fired right up. After I adjusted the idle circuit all was fine.
  7. I would venture a guess that the axle widths are different. That being said, the differential assembly should bolt right into your axle housing. You will have to swap over the input drive flange from the truck diff. Also, you'll need to check the spline count on the axle shafts. Somewhere along the line the spline count changed. If this is the case you may be able to swap out the side gears in the differential too.
  8. It should be 5 quarts (4.73 liters), or until it reaches the "Full" mark on the dipstick.
  9. You've done so much work on your truck already. Why would you want to start over at this point? Is there something about the '49 that's more attractive than your '56?
  10. That, of course, assumes that it wasn't swapped out for a "This will fit" in the past.
  11. Find any numbers/identification on the pump and contact the good folks at Then and Now Automotive, (a.k.a. Antique Parts Cellar). They have good quality rebuild kits and can be very helpful in identifying your pump if you can't find any identification. http://www.then-now-auto.com/fuel-pumps/
  12. You mention a PCV system has been installed on the engine, but has the carburetor been rejetted accordingly? The PCV is a controlled vacuum leak which will change the air fuel mixture, and could create the lean condition, and backfires, that you refer to.
  13. Thanks Brian, I haven't had a chance to follow up on any of it yet... And my check was never cashed yet either. Why state a fee for the service and not accept payment?
  14. That's a pretty wild steering wheel.
  15. Might be time for a new tool... Someone posted this gizmo a few weeks ago and I've saved it. I might end up getting one some day... https://www.theoriginalrescuebit.com/collections/most-popular/products/1-4-x-3-double-end-drill-point
  16. The front crank seal would be in your timing chain cover. The rear one appears to have taken a hike... Wrist pins may be held in place with a circlip (snap-ring). Can't tell in these pictures. Looking again I see what looks possibly like a locking bolt in the bottom of the wrist pin area. I don't ever recall seeing something like that.
  17. Oh... Yes, it's possible to shift into gear without depressing the clutch pedal if the engine is NOT running. Since none of the gears are spinning it is possible to get them to slide together with little effort. But you MUST release the clutch, or have the trans in neutral when you attempt to start the engine because if it's in gear with the clutch engaged when you crank the engine it will drive the wheels. First manual transmission? Merle
  18. I'm confused by your question. Are you saying that with the engine running that you can put the transmission into gear without depressing the clutch pedal? Like the clutch is permanently disengaged? That would indicate a serious clutch problem.
  19. A few tiles came loose in the shower. We didn't care much for the tile in this bathroom anyway, so we gutted it. Now the reassembly begins.
  20. Needed to pick up some drywall sheets and insulation, for a bathroom remodel project, and the daily driver pickup was full of work stuff. So the Ol' Dodge got to work today...
  21. I don't believe I would use a cork gasket for the diff mount. You want a good metal to metal mount there as there is potential for movement from the torque applied to it. I would just use a small bead of RTV silicone for that. Or even better, one of Permetex's Anerobic gasket makers / flange sealers. They will cure hard and make a good seal. https://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/anaerobic-gasket-makers-flange-sealants/permatex-anaerobic-gasket-maker/
  22. I just drove past an International COE yesterday. Was going to stop to get a picture but wasn't able to. It was a little newer than yours, but in much rougher shape. I believe it was a 50's model.
  23. The sending unit is basically a variable resistance to ground for the gauge. As the float drops the resistance increases and reduces the amperage going through the gauge. This changes how much pull there is on the needle. Maybe your needle is sticking and not moving smoothly causing the jerky movement. Or could it be wired backwards? I don't know how that would affect it. Merle
  24. (Jealous)