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Merle Coggins

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Merle Coggins last won the day on August 16

Merle Coggins had the most liked content!

About Merle Coggins

  • Rank
    Zen Master, I breathe vintage mopar!
  • Birthday 03/29/1967

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  • Occupation
    Technical trainer for a Construction Equipment Dealership

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Menasha, WI
  • My Project Cars
    1950 Dodge B-2-C-116


  • Location
    Waukesha, WI
  • Interests
    Motorcycling, working on my truck

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  1. Merle Coggins

    1954 Plymouth Suburban Project

    That is a very good question. Refer to my previous posted picture... 1. Hub retaining Nut 2. Brake drum/wheel hub 3. Brake backing plate 4. Axle housing Between 3 and 4 are shims. No gasket. The shims are used to set the bearing preload upon assembly. 5. Inner seal. (Retains axle oil in the axle housing) Rear Wheel seal already identified, and noted that it is a dust seal for the bearing 6. Axle shaft 7. Bearing Cup. As noted it is a press fit into the axle tube and is retained by the brake backing plate. The puller is needed to pull the assembly out as this bearing is a tight fit into the housing. 8. Bearing Cone. This bearing is grease packed like the front wheel bearings. The bearing is press fit onto the axle shaft.
  2. Yup, like they’ve said. Rear fenders, “DODGE” on dash, and “DODGE” name plate on the nose all make it a ‘53. Take your serial number and put in in the decoder at http://t137.com/registry/help/decode.php
  3. Merle Coggins

    1954 Plymouth Suburban Project

    Also from my truck manual, Lubrication Section, Every 20,000 miles. This would be the same as your Suburban axle as the 1/2 and 3/4 ton truck axles were the same design as the cars. In reference to the plug in your photo...
  4. Merle Coggins

    1954 Plymouth Suburban Project

    I have had good luck with a slide hammer. Others have reported having good luck using the brake drum as a slide hammer. Put it back on loosely, with the nut on a few threads. If that doesn’t work find some spacers to put between the drum and the axle flange, then tighten the drum retaining nut to pull out on the axle shaft. You may need to reset with longer spacers a couple of times before it’s all out. I was able to use some deep well sockets and washers to accomplish that task once. The washers and sockets sit nice over the brake backing plate studs.
  5. Merle Coggins

    1954 Plymouth Suburban Project

    Should be the same setup as our trucks have. Outer seal is dust seal for the bearing, inner seal is oil seal for the axle oil.
  6. Merle Coggins

    1954 Plymouth Suburban Project

    That seal is just a dust seal for the grease packed wheel bearing. The oil seal in inboard of the bearing.
  7. Merle Coggins

    Cracked Manifold

    OEM drag links are fixed length and ball joints are not replaceable. DCM Classics are reproducing them with tie rod ends so that they are replaceable and adjustable.
  8. Merle Coggins

    Cracked Manifold

    I didn’t look at their movement while installed, and once removed there doesn’t seem to be excessive movement in the joints. I figured that since it was still the original piece it was probably worth the effort. Plus the adjustable ends allowed me to re-center the steering wheel. It was a little off since doing the disc brake conversion because of the steering arms moving inward to fit the caliper brackets. And I didn’t do any measurements before and after the drag link change, only after that and the steering box slack adjustment. I’m wishing I had done this years ago. The steering is much more responsive and easier to drive down the highway.
  9. Merle Coggins


    Yup.. like they said. It's a capacitor. They are used to suppress electric interference for radios.
  10. Just had a look at them. I don't have an addition suggestion at this time, but I did notice a typo in the PM FAQ. I believe you meant 'sending' instead of 'ending' in the last sentence. Once corrected feel free to delete this post, as it would no longer have any relevance.
  11. Merle Coggins


    Yes, Dennis had a Ford Ranger bumper on his truck when he got it. He then came across a complete frame with a front bumper and used that to make his truck right again. The Ranger bumper looked OK, but it was too short. But frankendodge is asking about a rear bumper...
  12. Merle Coggins

    Part numbers 48 plymouth

    Rear race? I assume you are refering to a bearing race, but which one?
  13. Merle Coggins

    Mustang gas tank question

    As Mike said, the rear cross members add structural support for the spring mounts. If you move them you risk added stress points in your frame rails due to the loads on the spring attachment points. This isn't the best picture, but it's the best one I have that shows both cross members and their location at the spring mounts.
  14. Merle Coggins

    Cracked Manifold

    All done... Glad I did this before the trip. I got an early start this morning. Was out in the garage around 6:30. Got the steering box adjusted right away and was on to the manifold job by 8:00. I thought I was going to have a delay for a supply run. I wanted to grease the front suspension components before lowering it down, but my grease gun was empty. I dug out my second grease gun and it had just enough to grease the front end. Delay avoided... The manifold sway went fairly smoothly. I had 3 studs come out, so I had to drain the coolant. It was 3 with the conical nuts and cupped washers. It took a fair amount of heat to break the bond between the nuts and studs, but they finally loosened up and were reusable. The good part about that was that those areas were easier to clean up the old gasket material without having to work around the studs. A little sealer on the threads and it all went back together without any fuss. Had it running by 10:30. Got things cleaned up and backed it out of the garage for a test drive. Needed to run some errands anyway, including a stop at Fleet Farm for grease. Runs great. Steering is awesome now. Much easier to drive now. It smoked quite a bit at first until all of the gunk was burned out of the replacement manifold, but that cleared up fairly quickly. When I got back home I jacked up the rear and greased the rear suspension and driveline. All good to go now. A BIG thank you again to Todd for hooking me up with the manifold. The crack was worse than I expected. Red arrows are pointing at the ends. Wouldn’t have been long before it was a 2 piece manifold. All done... and retorqued after running it for a few minutes, and again after my errand run/test drive.
  15. Merle Coggins

    51 engine number

    I believe what you are calling the valve cover is indeed the head, unless you have something besides a flathead Mopar engine in there.

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