Merle Coggins

My bed has a couple of brackets that attach between the sides and the frame near the back that would help ground the bed. But I still ran a ground wire for each tail light back to the frame. Merle

Thank you all. I didn't serve, but I truely appreciate those who have. Thank you. Did I say Thank You? Merle

Too Cool Let's see... $740,000 gets you 1183 horsepower that will take you from 0 - 60 MPH in 2.78 seconds. I gotta have it. I could even get change back..

Points, cap, and rotor don't care about the primary voltage, but the condensor and coil do. Get a new ballast resistor and wire it into the Pos wire to the coil. This should give you the 6 - 8 volts that the ignition system needs to survive. Merle

A 6 volt system will give a good tickle A 12 volt system will give a good buzz A 24 volt system will give a good BITE. Ouch!! Been there, done that. Not necessarily touching both posts, but inadvertently touching a hot wire while grounded. Merle

Interesting... I've never posted anything on the HAMB. I've looked at their forum a few times, but this group is more my style. I posted that link on the Pilot House forum here. I guess someone liked it here and shared it there. Merle

You would have to be touching the chassis and the "hot side" battery terminal (negative in our case) at the same time. Then you would create a complete circuit for electricity flow and you would get a tickle. Otherwise just touching the frame doesn't make a complete circuit, so nothing happens. Merle

Yes Greg, I posted them on the truck side a few days ago. Thanks for adding the link to my 'bucket. I was just about to do it anyway. Car haulers sure have come a long way, haven't they? Merle

Electrons flow from the negative to positive, but conventional wisdom tells us that electricity flows from positive to negative. Anyway... The voltage regulator controls the field coils in the generator which controls how much electricity it generates. The Regulator is also connected to the battery. When the generator is outputing more than the system needs, the rest goes into the battery to recharge it. At lower RPM's when there is less output, the battery can make up the difference if the electric demand is higher than the generator output.

I don't believe the trucks used a harmonic balancer, just a pulley, unless they changed it in '53. I see no reason why you couldn't use your truck's pulley on the car engine. It shouldn't cause any problems. Merle

Good to hear that you're feeling good enough to get back at it. Thanks for the pics. It is interesting to see how they did things down there. It's interesting seeing a panel truck with side windows. Does it have rear seats like a Suburban, or is it more like a bus? I agree that the front engine mount looks just like mine with a 23" engine. I wonder if that front cross member is 2" farther forward to accomodate it. I also find the steering setup interesting. What is the reasoning to put the steering box so far forward? Is there no room back near the rear of the engine, like ours are on the left side? As I recall one of the biggest sales features of the Pilot House trucks was the change from fore/aft steering linkage to a cross linkage system to eliminate bump steer. This arrangement seems to go back to the previous setup. Merle

I just went to my local hardware store and looked through their drawers of springs until I found one long enough, and with about the right tension. It works fine for me. Merle

That's awesome. Like Tim says, I guess if you're viewing the logo that way you're Viper is quacked up. Merle

Alright, now that we're thoroughly confused let me see if I can add to it. When you depress the clutch pedal (press it down) you disengage the clutch and the input shaft stops spinning. This is when the noise goes away? Then when you let the clutch pedal back up (no longer depressed), the clutch engages and the input shaft spins again. This is when the noise is present? This would verify that the noise is coming from the bearing between the input shaft and the main shaft. Merle

When I bought my truck the Iowa title used the truck serial number but the last digit was misprinted as an "S" instead of a "5". When I transfered the title to me I filled out the necessary paperwork and mailed it to the Wisconsin DMV, since I wasn't in a hurry to get it. Before I sent it all in I made a photocopy of the original title, mainly because it held the name and address of the guy I bought it from plus the name and address of the owner previous to him. As it turns out that photocopy came in handy. When I got my title and new plates in the mail I noticed that the new title had the old Iowa title number as the VIN. So I figured if they were going to have to correct it they might as well correct it to get rid of the original misprint in the serial number. So I took photos of the truck's serial number, my photocopy of the Iowa title, and my new incorrect title to the DMV office and pointed out their mistake. They offered to correct it at no charge, but even though I showed them the picture of the truck's serial number the new title still has the same misprint as the original Iowa title. The last digit is still an "S" instead of a "5". Oh well... I know what it really is. Merle

A few days ago Byron sent me a bunch of pictures of some old car haulers that he came across. They are pretty cool and it seemed logical that you guys would enjoy them too. So I finally had a chance to upload them to my Photobucket, and here they are. Here are a couple with Pilot House trucks aboard. You can see the rest here. http://s66.photobucket.com/albums/h254/mac2026/Car%20Haulers/ Merle

Don't rush it and use plenty of cutting tool oil. Merle

I've experienced it a couple of times. I had one truck that went through 2 of them and I never did figure out why. But I noticed the pedal felt funny a couple of times then it began squeeling when the pedal was depressed. One of these times I was on my way up to the U.P. of Michigan to repair a customer's piece of equipment. I managed to limp it to the job and back home (300+ miles) by only using the clutch to put it into 1st gear to get moving from a stop. After that, clutchless shifts would get me up to speed. To stop I would pop it into neutral and brake to a stop. It was an interesting trip. Merle

It was a pleasure to meet you as well, Adam. I've met several members of this forum (along with the Pilot-House side since that's where I really belong ) and I've never been disapointed. I'm glad it ended up being something simple. Just a short driving lesson. I knew Ken would figure it out. He knows those Jeeps inside and out. By the way... he's got a load of parts here for you if you want to stop by again. I had to laugh yesterday, while looking over the Jeep Ken kept pointing out extra pieces and parts that he had in his garage that he was willing to get rid of. I guess I just should have had Adam meet us at Ken's house. He would have left with his Jeep packed full of extras. Merle

My bike actually has an option for a 6 disc CD changer that mounts in the bottom of the trunk. But at $800+ for that option I didn't get it. I can also plug an MP3 player or iPod into the stereo system and listen to that too, if I want to. Merle

The first time I put my '50 in my garage I went VERY slow and checked the clearance often. I had an inch or two to spare. I had already adjusted the door to open above the top framework. Merle

I've got a Sirius radio that I can switch between my truck and motorcycle. I don't use it much when I'm around here, but when I'm out driving around the state I turn it on so I don't have to keep searching for stations. I can put it on one channel and listen as long as I want. I originally bought it for my motorcycle for when I'm traveling. I can ride all day across the country and never have to change the channel unless I want to. I love it. I've had it for several years now. I got Sirius because they have the NFL package. With that I can listen to the Packer games no matter where I am. It will come in handy next month when I will be driving down to Asheville, NC the Sunday of the Packer-Bear game. I can tune in the game and listen in as I cruise down the highway. I'll probably be in southern Indiana or Kentucky by the time the came starts, but I'll still be able to listen to it. Merle

That's where I got mine. I got P/N's 06:1194604 and 06:1194605 on page 32 (4th down in the center column). My truck only had a left side rear light, but the bracket was identical to those, except it was bent some. Two new brackets and it looks perfect. I believe all Roberts has is the long cast stalk type bracket that is used on stake bed trucks and earler models. Merle

The Jeep can't be bigger than your Chrysler, or is it too tall for your doorway? The doors on our shop here are plenty big. Merle

I just talked with Ken again. I first reread your posts again to refresh the details. Since the filter didn't fix it he though for a few seconds and then mentioned vacuum lines. He's seen vacuum lines come off causing very poor performance. He also said that a '94 Sahara should have the 4.0 High Output engine with multi-port fuel injection. He has a similar aftermarket setup on the 258 in his '86 CJ. There are a few sensors related to the system that could cause problems, but they should also trip a code. He mentioned cases where distributor gears stripped, but in those cases the engine wouldn't accelerate past idle speed. Bottom line... check your vacuum lines first. And if that doesn't help feel free to call me (414-573-8260) and I'll get him more involved. I know he has sources for used parts, so he might be able to get you up and running at less expense. Merle