Merle Coggins

That is a 6V case, Don. Look again... only 3 cells.

I saw a comercial for those the other day. They look too good to be true, but if they really do work like they say they'd be a pretty handy tool in my tool box. Merle

Sounds like you need this filter element. It's a Napa Gold 1011

And the firewall pad. I wish I had this before I ran all of the wires and etc. through the firewall. Now it'll be more difficult to install. And now for the mystery pieces again Mystery piece #1 with a cab corner piece. Looks similar, but... And Mystery piece #2 with the Kick panels. If anyone knows where these Mystery pieces go, I'm all ears. Merle

OK, I took all of the interior panels out onto my driveway to get pics of all of them. Here they are. The headliner assembly Headliner folded at the middle seam. Shows the side piece better Rear cab window pieces Door panels And the Kick panels con't...

I have a Signal Stat switch like the lower one in your picture. I wasn't able to find the correct wire diagram for it so I used a multimeter and figured it out. I also opened it up and cleaned out all of the old gummy grease and relubed it with fresh dielectric grease. Looking at the innerds also helped me figure out how it works. Basically you have 3 power supplies. One from the brake light switch, and 2 flasher inputs. The other 4 wires go to the signal lights, 2 front and 2 rear. The brake light input will connect to the two rear lights when in the neutral position. When switched left or right the brake light will remain connected to one of the rear lights, but the other rear light gets connected to one of the flasher feeds. That flasher feed will also now be connected to one of the front lights. The other flasher feed only connects to all four lamps when the flasher switch is pulled. Maybe that helps you, maybe it doesn't, but that's how I figured out how to wire up mine. Use an ohm meter and check continuity between different wire combinations. eventually you'll be able to figure out which is which. Merle

Close Frankie.. But this one appears to be a chunk of 4x4. My version is a rock. I guess I won't have to sue for copyright infringment.

I had that happen to me on a GMC truck I once drove. It would get near the red zone on the gauge, then drop to normal temp and be OK the rest of the day. One day it nearly spiked the gauge, and as I was about to pull over it dropped and was OK again. However, after that day it would take forever to get up to temp. The thermostat had finally failed and was now stuck open. I replaced the thermostat and never saw that problem again. Merle

You're gettin' there. Keep up the good work. Changing the colors won't have any effect on it's performance, as long as you aren't using smaller wire that what's called for. If you are changing the colors, you may want to note the changes on your wire diagram for future reference. Merle

Thanks Mike, The black interior looks nice. And the more I look at that picture the more I think about leaving the panels black. But then again, my seat is already been done in brown. So as I ponder it some more, I'll probably paint them brown to match the seat. If I ever decide to recover the seat again, maybe I'll switch to black and repaint the panels again Merle

Well, I still haven't heard any more from Quite Ride. And I haven't heard any suggestions here that make any sense either. If you look at the pictures of the mystery pieces you can see the kick panels on the floor, so I know these are NOT the kick panels. That's what I thought at first, but they are WAY too large to fit there. Then I also found the correct kick panels in the box. So I'm still confussed as to there they go. The panel in the first picture looked like it may have been a rear cab corner piece for a cab without corner windows, but it's not quite right for that either. The rear window panel is 3 pieces, each with binding on at least 3 sides. It that first mystery piece is indeed the rear corner sections for a single rear window cab, then they could reduce the cost of the kits by offering one style or the other, not both corner types in one kit. I'll have to lay mystery piece #1 and the cab corner, with glass, piece side by side and compare them. Dave, as for the door panels... yes they have binding all the way around, but they also don't have the raised bump along the top edge like the originals do. I believe these may be '51-'53 styles. I recall someone (maybe Jim Shepard?) having this same issue with the ones from Roberts. The headliner is made with 4 pieces, all attached with the same binding material that wraps the edges so that it becomes all one piece. There are 2 pieces for the headliner it's self, plus the two side filler pieces above the doors. I set it up into place and it appears to fit quite well. I'll try to get more pictures as I continue the assembly. My next delima is on the panel color. They come black but can be painted with any paint made for vinyls or ABS plastics. They recommed SEM paint. I believe I can get it at the same store where I got the other paint products for my truck. I haven't stopped in there to verify that yet. I believe the original stuff was brown in color, and that would probably look OK against the dark green, but as I look at the black panels, it looks OK too. Does anyone have interior shots of their trucks that may help be to decide? Merle

Unless that's the cut-out for the elusive 610T radio, it looks like your dash has already been hacked up. Since my truck has the vertical radio cut-out, and still has the original block off plate, I'll probably mount a radio under the dash someplace. I have a 6V to 12V convertor that I plan to install after I get my interior done. Then I'll get a radio installed also. Hopefully I'll have tunes by this summer's cruises. Merle

I got the seat belt kit from Juliano's. http://www.julianos.com/index.html Merle

Well, I finally gave in and paid the price for an interior from Quite Ride, as a Christmas gift to myself. http://www.quietride.com/index.html After reading many posts regarding various sound and heat barrier options, and different ideas regarding the headliner and other interior panels, I finally decided that I'd save some aggravation and buy a ready made kit. I'll admit that it wasn't cheap, I ended up spending a little over $1100 with shipping. That includes a complete firewall pad, Dynamat strips and precut insulation for the floor, rear cab wall, kick panel areas, and roof. I also bought their ABS headliner, rear cab, door, and kick panels. It all arrived a couple weeks before Christmas and I had a little time to look it all over. there were some pieces that I couldn't identify. I emailed them pictures of these pieces, and I'm awaiting their answer. However, it seems that the guy that could answer my questions was out on vacation, and then his email had an issue and he didn't receive my message. I've been told I should have an answer soon. But in the mean time maybe someone here can clue me in. These are the pieces in question... there is a left and right of each piece, counting 4 pieces in total. I didn't remove any interior panels that match these, so I can't indentify where they go. I sent yesterday afternoon removing the seat and cleaning out the cab in preperation for the new stuff. Today I finished getting the rear cab wall, and rear floor sections, insulated. As with any "precut" kit I still had to do a little trimming to fit, but it went in fairly well. It's looking good so far and I'm getting anxious to see how well it quiets things down when it's all done. Merle

Yes, the steel grill bars on the '48 - '50 have a "Dodge Truck Cream" pinstripe along their lower edge. Here's a pic of my truck in it's "original" trim. Since the overhaul I haven't redone the pinstripes, but I plan on getting them back on there. According to Don Bunn's "bible" on Pilot House trucks. the pinstripe is the same cream color as the rims.

I like the journal idea too. I sometimes with I had kept better track of my expenses. But then there's part of me that doesn't want to know how much I spent. I have a pretty good idea, based on the major expenses. But if I could add up all of the money I spend at the many trips to the hardware store, for misc. hardware and supplies, I'd probably be stunned. I also agree that you can NOT take too many pictures when disassembling. You'll be glad you did when you're putting it all back together again. Also take plenty of photos when reassembling. They are good for your project photo album. Another valuable tool used during disassembly is Ziploc freezer bags. Put your hardware and other misc. small parts in the bags and mark on them with a Sharpie to remind you whats in them. (i.e. driver's door hardware, pass door hardware, dash parts, ...) It helps keep things organized and you're not searching through a big box/can of mixed bolts trying to figure out which bolts go where. Merle

I've always kind of had a thing for International trucks too. I remember a couple that my Uncle had when I was younger. They are long gone now. Merle

What... no matching Red glow?

Welcome Carl, I can see it now... 4 years from now you show up for your driver's license test in a '47 Dodge... The look on the examiner's face should be priceless. You've got quite a project there. These guys are a great source of information, and spare parts. You'll do well getting to know thid bunch. Merle

Milwaukee's record winter snow fall was set back in the winter of 1885-86 with 109.8" of snow through the full winter season. Last winter we came up about a foot short of matching that record at 96.7", officially at the airport. So far this December we are ahead of last year's snow fall. Only time will tell what will happen through the rest of the winter. However, I also know that what we get pales in comparison to what Greg, Shel, and the others get up in northern NY, off the shore of Lakes Erie and Ontario, or up in the U.P. of Michigan along Lake Superior. Those areas can get 3 or 4 feet of snow in one storm.

I heard on the radio this morning that "they" are expecting the national average to drop below $1.25 within the next couple weeks, and some areas may have the price go below $1.00. I guess we'll just have to wait to see if "They" are right. Merle

In your post on the truck page I suggested checking your fuel pump / fuel supply. But if you have all new lines and a good pump maybe it is something else. However, when there is a problem nothing should be overlooked no matter how "new" it is. If you suspect the carb... maybe there's a piece of schmutz partially plugging the main jet restricting how much gas gets into the mix. This would cause a very lean mix under load and may manifest itself as a miss. Merle

I think there was at least a foot of snow in my driveway this morning, and it's still coming down heavy. It's also blowing and drifting quite a lot. All schools are closed and they're warning everyone to stay home if you can. Traffic was light coming in to work this morning. The plows are out, but they can't keep up with it, so if you get to a section where they have just come through it's not too bad. If they haven't been through recently there's a fair amount of snow to drive through. It's really not that bad to drive in if you take it easy, and have a 4WD . Merle

Even with a manual choke, it may be worth checking to be sure it's fully open. To me it sounds like it's running out of gas. If the ignition system checks out, my next check would be the fuel supply. If you can achieve the higher RPMs under no load, but it stumbles under load, that indicates that it's not getting enough fuel to keep up with the demand. Merle

I don't think it's the tank length... my truck is a B2C. The 3/4 ton truck has a longer frame. Apparently the added length is between the two middle cross members, requiring an additional support bracket for the rear of the tank.