Merle Coggins

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Merle Coggins last won the day on October 6 2016

Merle Coggins had the most liked content!

About Merle Coggins

  • Rank
    Zen Master, I breathe vintage mopar!
  • Birthday 03/29/1967

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://pbtf.convio.net/site/TR/2016RideforKids/General?px=1024835&pg=personal&fr_id=2632#.VnC6ar_fXbg
  • Occupation
    Technical trainer for a Construction Equipment Dealership

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Menasha, WI
  • My Project Cars
    1950 Dodge B-2-C-116

Converted

  • Location
    Waukesha, WI
  • Interests
    Motorcycling, working on my truck
  1. I always did mine in the truck. Remove cap and rotor, connect dwell meter, with key on, and in neutral, reach down and engage the starter lever by hand... read dwell meter.
  2. Do you have a timing light, or the tools necessary to static time it? If the timing is off it may start but lack power and stumble badly. I would also reset my points with a dwell meter after the initial gap adjustment. It gives a more accurate setting. Keep in mind that adjusting the points will change the ignition timing, even if you haven't moved the distributor.
  3. My ground cable goes to one of the trans cover bolts. As long as you have a ground cable/strap/wire going from the power train to the chassis you'll be fine.
  4. Need a big weed burner torch.
  5. If you have spark at the spark plugs your condenser is OK. You either don't have spark at the right time, or you're not getting the right amount of fuel. The first time I started mine I had a similar thing. It wanted to go, but not quite. I cracked the throttle open slightly and it fired right up. After I adjusted the idle circuit all was fine.
  6. I would venture a guess that the axle widths are different. That being said, the differential assembly should bolt right into your axle housing. You will have to swap over the input drive flange from the truck diff. Also, you'll need to check the spline count on the axle shafts. Somewhere along the line the spline count changed. If this is the case you may be able to swap out the side gears in the differential too.
  7. Thanks much Merle for recommending Daves Repair in Allenton. I took the crank from my 230 to him today for grinding. He's retired now but still putzing around. Once the crank is done I'll be taking the block to him for machine work. The guy's really laid back, reasonable and can do the job. He knows his way around these engines and I have confidence in his abilities unlike local machine shops I contacted. Thanks again.

    1. Merle Coggins

      Merle Coggins

      Good to hear. Too bad we're loosing another competent machinist for the old flatties, but glad to hear he could help you out 

  8. It should be 5 quarts (4.73 liters), or until it reaches the "Full" mark on the dipstick.
  9. You've done so much work on your truck already. Why would you want to start over at this point? Is there something about the '49 that's more attractive than your '56?
  10. That, of course, assumes that it wasn't swapped out for a "This will fit" in the past.
  11. Find any numbers/identification on the pump and contact the good folks at Then and Now Automotive, (a.k.a. Antique Parts Cellar). They have good quality rebuild kits and can be very helpful in identifying your pump if you can't find any identification. http://www.then-now-auto.com/fuel-pumps/
  12. You mention a PCV system has been installed on the engine, but has the carburetor been rejetted accordingly? The PCV is a controlled vacuum leak which will change the air fuel mixture, and could create the lean condition, and backfires, that you refer to.
  13. Thanks Brian, I haven't had a chance to follow up on any of it yet... And my check was never cashed yet either. Why state a fee for the service and not accept payment?
  14. That's a pretty wild steering wheel.
  15. Might be time for a new tool... Someone posted this gizmo a few weeks ago and I've saved it. I might end up getting one some day... https://www.theoriginalrescuebit.com/collections/most-popular/products/1-4-x-3-double-end-drill-point