Merle Coggins

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Merle Coggins last won the day on October 6 2016

Merle Coggins had the most liked content!

About Merle Coggins

  • Rank
    Zen Master, I breathe vintage mopar!
  • Birthday 03/29/1967

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://pbtf.convio.net/site/TR/2016RideforKids/General?px=1024835&pg=personal&fr_id=2632#.VnC6ar_fXbg
  • Occupation
    Technical trainer for a Construction Equipment Dealership

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Menasha, WI
  • My Project Cars
    1950 Dodge B-2-C-116

Converted

  • Location
    Waukesha, WI
  • Interests
    Motorcycling, working on my truck
  1. Likely a '48 or '49. Could also be a '50. Nice truck.
  2. OK Mike, I'm confused... Your profile says you have a '49 1 ton and the wiper position on the cowl would back that up. But the hood and grill are for a B3 model and you have a '52 license plate. What's up with that?
  3. That's the first ones I've seen that are weather resistant. That's always been the down side from what I've read. You weren't able to mount them outside of the cab, and there typically isn't a good location for it in the cab. I'd be very interested to see how that would work, grafted into the shaft between the steering wheel and the original steering box.
  4. I believe what I used, and carry in the truck, is Super Lube. It's a synthetic Teflon lube. I was out of town at a WPC meet when it got so bad that I had to do something. I went looking for a hardware store to find something. I found small store and that's what they had available. I sprayed down the joints and my sticking throttle problem disappeared. I then discovered that my idle was too low when warm and I had to adjust it up a bit.
  5. Then the first thing to do is to static time your ignition to ensure you are getting spark at the proper time.
  6. I used to have an issue with my throttle linkage sticking and causing a high idle. I use a little spray lube on all of the connections and friction points and no longer have that problem. Also, you may need to fine tune the carburetor again when it's hot.
  7. Sounds like one of those never ending rabbit holes...
  8. I remember that mine were pushed down when I got it. I was able to pry them back up with little effort. I was worried about them getting pushed back down, and contemplated a solution like Brent showed, but I've found that it wasn't needed... so far. You just need to be sure the seat base is locked onto the pins before sitting on it.
  9. WOW!! Sounds as good as it looks. I'm guessing there are some serious internal modification too. What kind of speed did it run?
  10. Cool, but I wanted to see the engine.
  11. I've never heard of a Mopar flathead engine that didn't have replaceable valve guides. You should be able to obtain new guides and press them in. And there are no valve stem seals needed for these engines. Also, the Spitfire thing is only a marketing thing with a name cast into the head. There's nothing special about that engine that I'm aware of. The Spitfire was used in Chrysler cars only as I understood it. However, some people have taken those heads and put them on other engines. Do you have a 25" engine?
  12. The original door panels had some embossing in them. At least on the B1's and B2's. This is one of my original door panels. I got my interior panels from Quite Rides. They originally sent B3 / B4 door panels, which was the only pattern that they had. The later panels don't have the raised hump over the door handle. I contacted them about it and they offered to make the proper panels if I sent them my originals as patterns. I'm very happy with the end result. They even did the embossing.
  13. OK, thanks. It's not mentioned in my B-Series truck manuals. I guess it's only important on Plymouths.
  14. Where does this idea that "the rotor must point to 7 o'clock" come from? I just read through my Shop Manual and Operators Manual regarding oil pump installation, and distributor installation. There is never this sort of reference. It only mentions to align the rotor to point to the #1 plug wire when inserting the distributor, with #6 at TDC and exhaust valve closing. (This would put #1 at TDC on compression stroke). The only place I recall ever seeing this reference is here on the forum. It seems to get several people confused when their rotor is pointing at a different angle.