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Don Jordan

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Everything posted by Don Jordan

  1. The car just won't start. I've done everything from "auto shop 101" and no go. There seems to be spark at the points but it's not making it to the plugs. I took the dist out and checked the points (.20), the condenser was not fully hooked on - it is now. The rotor and cap are relatively new, the engine is rebuilt and was running for a time. I truly hate electrics it could be something so silly and I'm just missing it. As a side note the motor turns over very slow. The battery tests out at 6.4 volts. I know it's something simple I just don't know what. Is there a way to test the coil? rotor? cap? condenser? What am I missing? Thank you for your help and patience.
  2. While it is true that you can't take 'em with you it's a shame to keep others from enjoying them. Most of them looked classy. Like it was said earlier when the dude dies the kids will probably pay some one to tow the junkers away. Sad indeed.
  3. My first real, legal car (which I miss) 1950 Buick Special. Paid $25 for it. Straight 8. Drove it from Utah to California and back to college. It never left me stranded. 69 TR 250. 64 GTO. But like it's been said my father owned MoPars. He was the service manager at James F. Waters in San Francisco. The largest DeSoto/Plymouth dealership (I was told "in the world" but that could have been hyperbole). We got a new Plymouth every year until he died in 1961.
  4. I've seen my share of mechanical failures but this one is new to me: I just drove the P15 around the block to warm it up before I changed the oil. (we have really long blocks here in the desert) I glanced down and the speedo was working fine. I don't know why but I looked at the odometer and it was still. I've never seen that before. Could this be an easy fix? (I know that's a silly question - nothing is easy) Just curious. There is a speedometer shop that does really good work near me but I can't really afford the $200. Any suggestions?
  5. I learned two lessons working on my 69 Triumph: The less you pay the more it costs. And a sign on the mechanic's wall: fix it yourself - we make more money that way. I guess as you get older you just accrue a lot of experience (the hard way)
  6. It seems a lot easier to just go to a radiator shop and have them boil it out and for a little extra they will coat the inside. When you get the tank back it's all painted, clean, and pretty.
  7. I've used RI for 2 cars (it was many years ago) but I don't recall it being $1000. Of course I did it in 3 sections and it may have added up to that. But with RI you get very easy to read schematics and everything just seems to fit. All the colors match and while I don't have lots of money for me (show or not) it was worth it.
  8. It's a beautiful car. If it was a bucket the decision would be easy. Once it's fixed and you're motoring down the highway with the wind in your hair it will be a memory of the past. I know how you feel. Every time I get a little money in savings the god of old cars sends me a problem that will cost that exact amount of money. I've resigned myself to the fact that so far I'm told you can't take it with you.
  9. speaking of that sort of stuff I have an extra manifold if some one is interested.
  10. I probably shouldn't say this but there is an old saying about peeing in a wet suit: nobody will notice but it feels warm inside. I put dual carbs/exhaust just for me. I don't care if it makes the car run better or not - it just makes me feel warm. I also got a tach for the same reason. I drive from Southern California to Sacramento every year to go the state fair. The car is a tool, I use it as such, just as they did in 1948. I know this isn't a technical response, just from the gut.
  11. I had contact with a guy in Arkansas who rebuilt my gas gauge (and it works splendid). Now, because I keep cannibalizing my other car, I have a gauge that works but now the sending unit is SNAFU. I have it out but I don't see any numbers on it for reference. I notice that it's riveted together so would be hard to R&R. any suggestions? Is there an after market substitute? It's one of the last things I have to do before taking it on a road trip.
  12. When I first got into old cars - I just got back from Viet Nam and bought a 36 Chevy pick up. It was my daily driver. I joined the Vintage Chevy club in 1969. At the time they considered "vintage" to be up to '48. But then all the 55-56 people got up set so they changed the rules and a car had to be 25 years or older. I got out of high school in 1964. 50 years ago - I can't stand it. On a side note back in the days they used to race old Plymouths - many didn't survive. Now a days you can buy a 56 Chevy, one part at a time, out of a catalog.
  13. A great picture! Every time you think there just aren't any more unfound treasures out there and behold... you got your work cut out for you but it will be worth it. Welcome aboard.
  14. I went to a car show today. I felt out of place. Lots of Fords and Chevys - I was told there were 250 cars - there were only 4 MoPars - mine was the only Plymouth. On a side note I find it disconcerting when people restore and show cars made after I got out of high school. d-
  15. I just got a used tank and had it boiled out - I sure hope that's not the problem - again.
  16. It's getting to be that time in the desert. I am familiar with the concept of vapor lock but I don't exactly know what it feels like. I was driving down the road and the car just quit running - stopped. I thought it was out of gas so I went and got 5 gallons ($20.00) and it started right up an went for about 5 miles and stopped. Not knowing what else to do I put in another 5 gallons. (my gas gauge has been a bit inaccurate). Today when I picked the car up (interior work) drove it home and it purred. All I could think about was it was over 100° on the way in and in the 80°s on the way back. a conundrum at best.
  17. I have a rear window garnish molding for sale on ebay. A guy wrote and asked if it would fit a 41 Plymouth. I don't know. Is a 46 - 48 P15 going to be compatible with a 41? Thanks for your help.
  18. I just called Williamson - talked to a very nice man there and he will repair the gauge for $69 (tops). He was funny. He said at the the time they were good gauges but they can be 'cantankerous'. I didn't disagree. It goes in the mail today. He's in Arkansas. Thank you JBNeal so much for the lead. I guess it's not that difficult to be nice.
  19. Thank you - that wasn't too hard. I'll give them a call and let you know. d-
  20. With all due respect I have asked a question that has not previously been addressed in past posts. While I'm sure you have thoroughly researched every post I see no need to compile unrelated messages that would otherwise confuse the initial query. I'm sure you will be able to find the specific post that deals with the fuel gauge points - not everyone has your time or valuable computer prowess to diligently research what seemed like a simple, innocent question. If you're not going to add anything positive to this thread why spend your time intimidating those who just want a little information. d-
  21. Sometimes I think it's just me... I have 4 gas gauges - one works. I was looking at 2 of them. Everything seems to be in place. The only variable is I noticed they have a little set of points. Does anyone know if a gas gauge can be repaired? If I took a points file to the gauge's points is that going to do anything? This is all very frustrating. I used to see them all the time on ebay when I didn't want one. Now that source has dried up. So close to being done - yet so far. I need to take it out and put 500 miles on the new engine. I'd rather not do it without a gas gauge. Thanks.
  22. I got mine from http://www.westach.com/ they made it for a 6v pos ground. I can show pictures if you want. It doesn't make the car go any faster but it gives me a giggle to look down and see it.
  23. It was the gauge. I put one in that I know works. It was that easy.
  24. I swapped out the sending unit. Same result. Tomorrow I will swap out the fuel gauge. I just thought there might be a test I'm over looking. I just thought it odd that when I did a continuity check I got the same reading on both posts of the fuel gauge. Just doesn't seem right. Sorry to bother you guys. merry Christmas all.
  25. Merry Christmas. These old cars are going to be the death of me. I finally get it to run right and the gas gauge goes out. It will shoot up to full and then slowly go down to empty. Sit for a while and then go back to full. I have an extra gauge so I took it with a battery and hooked it up at the back of the car. Same result: goes to full then down to empty. Is there some sort of test to perform on the gauge to tell if it's working properly? I've done so many tests with the ohm meter that I'm at the end of whatever wit I had. Next step is to take the gauge out of the car that works and see if that will fix the problem. I just have trouble believing I have two faulty gas gauges. I know it's Christmas but I would appreciate any feed back. - thanks
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