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Don Jordan

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Everything posted by Don Jordan

  1. I have a 48 4 door. I'd send pictures but I don't know how. The body is straight. It has some dents - no rust. This guy was very thorough as he walked around the car. He was talking about first taking everything out of the car and having the car completely sand blasted ($1600) Then he opened and closed each door saying the door mechanisms needed to be replaced. All the body work. All the rubber and channels in the doors. Now I'm starting to feel foolish. I didn't really want an "Earl Shibe" $200 one day paint job. I saw some of the stuff he'd done. A 55 Chevy looked like it rolled off the showroom floor. All I really want is a daily driver but I want it to look nice. I posted the other day to see if anyone could recommend someone but nothing was close by. I know it's a lot of money and I don't want to be taken advantage of - but I've seen pictures of cars on this forum and that's what I want. I tried to paint it myself but it's a lot harder than it looks and is a lot more time consuming than I figured. That's what the guy told me - older cars = more time spent. I don't know what to do. If I put $20,000 in it now and use it for 10 years maybe I could sell it for $20,000 - all things being equal. It's not the same as stocks and bonds but there is a cost for the pleasure of just having it. somehow this isn't as funny as I thought. come on guys - be gentle Don
  2. I wrote in a very long post and somehow I was logged off and it didn't post. So I will make this quick: I just took my car in to be painted (and cleaned up) quote: $20 to $30,000. Does this sound excessive? He's talking about first sand blasting the whole car. I have more questions but I'll be quick. What is the opinion about wood grain? Worth it or is it just an ooo - aaah affect? I need to find rubber - does Steele do MoPar or just GM? How about JC Whitney? The guy said if I got a lot of the little things myself it would hold the cost down. I'm sorry - one more question: Is the frame on the wind wing supposed to be chrome or painted? So many questions - I'm sure there will be more later. I figure if I'm going to do it might as well do it right. Thanks everyone.
  3. All I want is to be able to get in the car and push the button and have it start. Is that asking so much? New plugs, points, condenser, voltage regulator, rebuilt gen. and starter, new batt. cables. Come on - what's left? My friend the mechanic said "valve adjustment." Problem with that is I DON'T KNOW HOW!! My old Chevy I used to adjust the valves with the engine running. A flat head is a horse of a different color. Just looking at the inspection plates - do I need to remove the manifolds to get to the valves? Once there I have no idea what I'm going to find. Is it really possible that valve adjustment will help it start? Once the car is going it's a dynamo. I would like to say in passing for all those that gave me advice about the slow cranking power - newer, bigger battery cables did the trick. I never would have guessed. I guess they are 0 gauge. anyway - thoughts about the valves? d-
  4. See it's always something silly - thank you all for this invaluable help. I knew it was something simple that I can fix once I know how. I forgot about the high beam light - now it will work. Now if I could just find a cure for world hunger and create world peace. Thanks again.
  5. I have been rewiring my Plymouth - down to the last 4 wires. The ones that go to the dimmer switch. There are 4 places and 4 wires - does anyone know if there is a certain order - or if it even matters? 2 wires are 12 gauge and 2 are 16 gauge. The switch has 2 places for wires on the top and bottom and the 2 wires in the center are actually common. I plugged them in ranomly and had lights but when I pushed the switch they went out. Finally I blew a fuse and thought I'd ask before ruining something.
  6. Chet, There's an old saying that goes: "I felt bad because I had no shoes until I met a man that had no feet." The next time I complain because my garage is so small I'm going to pull up the picture of your car. How do you spell claustrophobic? One of these days I'm going to learn how to post pictures so I can show off my bucket. I know we only do cars here but I just restored my 69 Triumph 650 - someone has got to appreciate that. I think that without "before" pictures we wouldn't have the courage to shoot for the "after" shots.
  7. Thank you for the leads. Driving somewhere is not a problem. I live in Acton which no one has ever heard of - it's in the high desert near Palmdale/Lancaster. It's almost as far to Santa Maria as it is to Riverside. Here's another question: am I going to have to go to a different place for each thing? One place for interior and another for paint and body work? I guess it's like ordering a la carte - I guess it could save some money. To answer a question: it's a 48 Plymouth 4 door. The body is straight except for some dents where the suicide doors flew open. Of course it's like an ugly wife that you love - you don't really dwell on the flaws. No rust at least.
  8. You know about 30 years ago I could think of nothing better than crawling around on a cold cement floor doing manly things under my car. It seems time has caught up to me and it's not as much fun as it used to be. Plus I just don't have the knowledge I think I remember having back then. Now I seem to have extra money I didn't have 30 years ago. So - what this is all about is that I'm giving up trying to restore my 48 4 door and I'm willing to pay someone to do it - and do it right. I live in Southern California - can anyone recommend some one that can do body work and paint, interior, the fancy wood grain dash. I've done the engine, wiring, and all things mechanical. I don't really want a show stopper - just a clean driver. I figure I'd ask first. Usually I get it done and then everyone says "Oh - you shoulda gone to my guy." Thank you
  9. It seems so simple some times - so obvious. I got the new dip stick and go figure - without the tube in the block the new dip stick fit. It makes for a longer reach and you've got to squeeze your hand past the distributor but it will work for now. Thank you all for the invaluable info.
  10. I have a stock flathead 6 P15. The dip stick just doesn't seem right so I saw one on e-bay (curse you e-bay) - I just got it and it doesn't fit. Mine: 15" the part that goes into the engine his: 10 1/2" and his has a bend () by the top that won't allow the entire stick to go into the tube. I'm so confused also while I'm on the subject: you know the tube the tip stick goes in? It keeps coming out. I tried some glue but it won't stick. The tube has a slight bend - which way does the bend go? I appreciate any input.
  11. I'm still looking for a 6 v tack and dwell. The one I used would not work with the positive ground. Maybe I hooked it up wrong. The Sears timing light worked perfectly hooked to a 12 volt battery. I bought a 6 volt timing light at a swap meet and can't find it. I'm sure I put it somewhere safe.
  12. I gotta tell you it sure looks easier to get to the distrib. when the engine is out. The wire from the coil was so hard for me to get to I finally just took the dist. out.
  13. Don - thanks for the pix. My dist. is just like yours but different from what my Chilton's book shows. Again I guess if it ain't broke... 2 questions - I notice 3 tubes off your vacuum advance - what's that? and your oil tube is straight down - mine has a dog leg in it. Just curious. I bought my battery cables from an auto parts store - I didn't even know they had different sizes - what size do I need? Thanks again
  14. It is with great interest that I am reading this timing thread but I do have some questions. 1. My tack and dwell won't work with positive ground. So I don't know how to tell the idle other than ball park the sound. 2. Does anyone make 6V timing lights? 3. I have a mark on the pully about 1/2" wide - it was painted on there when I bought the car - I am so embarrassed to ask this but is BTDC with the mark on the drivers side? 4. I think my distributor is upside down. (now you really think I'm an idiot) the vacuum advance is about 11 o'clock and the wire from the coil is completely underneath. The reason I am so interested in all this is I CAN'T GET THE CAR TO START!!! If I spray starting fluid it will start and it runs fine - other wise it won't start. New battery, rebuilt starter, generator, new volt regulator, new wires. It won't turn over as fast as I think it should to start. I don't know what else would hold back the cranking speed - of course now I understand it might be timing. Once it is running it purrs. I drove it 200 miles the other day - no problems other than starting. Same hot or cold. Thanks
  15. Boy do I feel silly. A friend of mine came over and used a very technical technique on the voltage regulator. First he picked up a specialized tool - a big screw driver (I think it was a left handed blade screw driver) - he grabbed the shank and gave the voltage regulator a whack. Don't know how or why but it runs perfect now. Took it out for a ride - 200 miles - what a dream. thank you for your help and advice.
  16. My first biggest problem is once this is posted I don't know how to find it again. I was reading some posts on electrical problems, got some helpful hints, and now don't know how to find where it is posted. So I'm trying again. I had the generator rebuilt. New voltage regulator. Rewired under the dash and engine compartment. Problem: when I rev up the engine the amp guage pegs at 35... this can't be good. At idle it's at 0. The car runs fine but I worry I'm going to burn something up. If someone could e-mail me and explain how to find this post again I would be in your debt. Thank you.
  17. Thank you so much for all this information. I have been reluctant to join the forum because since the format change I have a problem navigating around. I too have problems starting. Rebuilt generator, starter, new voltage regulator, all new and correct wires in the engine compartment and under the dash. Brand new battery. It will turn the engine over but not fast enough to start. If I spray starter fluid in the carb I can get it going. Once going it runs fine. I shut it off and it won't ever turn over. I have not replaced the coil. I will give that a shot. I don't know what else to do. The battery is charged. Next step - coil and someone suggested condenser - I'm up for anything. Thanks for all the information. I hope I can find this forum again. d-
  18. Nobody really said this so that means either everyone knows or it's not that important. So leave it to me to state the obvious. 1. Only one year that I know of did California have just one plate: 1945. It was black with white letters. If you find a pair you've been cheated. 2. Again I guess everyone knows this but this is for the one guy that doesn't: the reason 47 CA plates are so expensive is because they used the same plates for 3 years. That means all the collectors with Chevys, Fords, MoPars with a 46, 47, 48 are going after a limited number of plates. I got one set for my 48 Chevy about 30 years ago - everything was cheaper then. For the set on my 48 Plymouth I traded other plates for them. The guy was asking $300. If you live in So CA at the Pomona swap meet (about once a month) there are license plate vendors but they know what every thing is worth. Also you have to be very careful because you might spend a lot of money and DMV won't approve the number - then you're SOL. If you can find a set the '39 CA is also up in value. That was the year of the worlds fair in San Francisco. I hope this wasn't too didactic.
  19. I have tried to post in the other forums but I can't figure out how. The only reason I keep posting here is because I've figured out how to do it. I have some questions about my car but can't figure out how to post. I feel really stupid and hope someone with patience will assist me. I'm not good with change - by the time I figured out how to use the old system it changed. any help would be appreciated. d-
  20. I just had the generator rebuilt. Started the car and it ran. Pulled the battery cable off and the car shut down. I know it's not the generator - does this mean I should replace the voltage regulator? Is there a way to test the regulator? Thanks
  21. I am not totally sure of my way around this board so I'm not sure if I'll be able to find any answers but I'll give it a try. I've got so many questions I really need to figure out how to work this forum. Question: I want to put the battery charger on my 6 volt. It's in the car. Even though it has positive ground when I hook up the charger do I still put the red on positive and black on negative. And do I need to disconnect the battery first? Will it screw anything up if I charge it while it's connected? I sure hope I'm going to be able to find this answer - I know my grand kids could. Thanks,
  22. I used to go on the other forum all the time and became quite comfortable with it. I just got on the new forum but for the life of me I can't figure it out. Is there a tutorial? In fact I'm not even sure how I'm going to find the answer to this post. Perhaps someone could answer me at donlj@ix.netcom.com Thanks all.
  23. I think it's interesting - hard as I looked I could not find one Japanese made car on the street. I guess they must have air brushed them out.
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