Malicious

I've searched 'diff strength', 'rear axle strength' and 'rear end strength'. Most give SFA results, the last gives me a few but none seam to address my question. If you have a link to a thread that does, please post it up for me. Tim, Not sure I follow you but I think your saying find out what was originally behind the 331 and use that? or compare it to the one I'm looking at, is that right? To be honest I'm starting to think I might just use a model A rear. I've been told they'll hold 300 hp no probs and they have a good look to them. Information on early Mopar's is a fkn pain in the a$$ to find. Like squeezing blood form a stone.

Hi guys, I'm in the process of buying and piecing together a Mopar "late 40's early 50's lakes" roadster. I'm starting with a '27 dodge chassis, front axle and 29 body. I'm in the process of sorting out the components needed to get it rolling. I'd like to keep it mopar and as period correct as is safely and mechanically possible. Which puts me at the rear end. Ford 9" is the easy option. But not period or mopar. Seeing as I have a '50 in the shed I'm SLOWLY restoring, it got me thinking to the plymouth rear end. Talking to a local, he mentioned that they should be ok, but to check if they have a keyed axel? or tapered keyed axel? What are your thoughts on the 48 or 50 rear end behind a mild 331? OR do you guys have any other 40-55 mopar rear ends that would be up to the job? Cheers! Leigh

Yeah that would be the best way but when the company selling them (fatman) advises that they arent road legal in Australia you kind of give up on it pretty quick! I'm planing on registering it on a vintage car permit rather then full rego. So there maybe some leeway in the legalities. I'll have a look into it. I still like the idea of lowered spring seat tho. It should be easy enough to make them safe and lower.

Welding on the frame or arm would be an option, may need an engineer to sign off on but that's better then just no. From my understanding it's just the upright that's a no no. Anyone have a pic of the sunken spring seat? Stupid idea perhaps, but has anyone cut out an upright from scratch? Ie a sing piece of heavy gauge steel? A fair ol feat agreed, but I'm just trying to think out of the box. Is the mount hole for the king pin tapered? The top mount is a clamp and the bottom is threaded. Anything else pose a challenge? Sure anything can be done, but is it realistic?

Do you mean the bushing hole or the over all hole? While the hole holding the bushings looked different, I thought the final bolt size would be similar? Or do you mean width? Just trying to think of a different way of getting a drop spindle. In australia you aren't allowed to run a welded upright in an form.

So I assume I'm not the only one to have thought of this, so please let me know why this wont work BUT; Could you lower the front end of a late 40's early 50's Mopar by simply flipping the uprights? You would need to relocate the shock mount, I'm also not sure on the size differences between bushes, It would also be a fair sized drop but its seams like a fairly logical option. Thoughts? I assume there is something I'm missing, PS I haven't yet attacked my suspension, so this may be obviously completely unfeasible when you are staring at it, but from the limited pics I've seen it seams like a good idea Cheers