Dodgeb4ya

Looks to be a 1953 Dodge...because of the brake drum ball and trunnion U-joint companion flange. Next to the side cover is the model of car it came out of and the build date. Looks like someone used a blue tip torch to cut the shift rod and speedo cable...then a very pretty over done paint job ? It would fit swapping the brake drum...but... I'd be very wary of condition.

Had a 1950 panel years ago that too many times locked into 2nd gear...cause was the top loader detent ball springs were weak. New balls and springs...fixed. The ball detent plates can wear and add to this issue too. I'd check shift fork wear, all bearings and syncro's too.

I Keep the plates off the car...and yes I go to the Washington state DMV and pay the hoser $10.00 fee ($13.00?) proving I sold the vehicle and to who. You cannot be too careful selling/donating cars these days.

Wait a minute....Don't forget about that annoying 1-888-"Kars4Kids....!?

Gotta see a couple whole pictures of it...main case # is not enough to properly ID it. There are three or more styles of side cover reverse levers, brake drum companion U-joint flanges, internal/ external brake drums, back up switch, extension housing etc. You need it to match your trans exactly to stay out of swapping parts trouble.

There was a fairly long thread on this issue 2/3 years ago. Young Ed found the special tube nuts that worked... If Mikey were to sell these nuts the price would be $80.00 or more plus shipping.

Wonderful job....nice going!

Good deal Mopar no Pro.

That steel ring will be part of the sector shaft seal. Pull it all out. Be careful to not damge the bushing above it.

When hauling heavy loads it's great to be able to get full use out of a 2 speed rear axle .... Upshift/down shift and split shifting. Makes it fun to drive the old trucks.

Type of oil usage is a pretty controversial subject. Any modern day engine oil is way better than any oils available 70 years ago. I like to see my oil pressure to be the highest it can be when really hot... idling and at speed. Just me. I also am one to never mix brands and change non synthetic oil yearly or every 3000 miles. This for all my old cars, trucks,and equipment machinery.

That red 1942 5th Ave S10 DeSoto was a Seattle car I used to keep up for the owner. He also had a 42 S10 Business cpe. He sold both in his late 80's. The convert went to Texas. The cpe to Europe... The convert was listed for sale in the last year and half.

I just did that pin press job on my P23 Belvedere. The pin ends up within .003" side to side centered.

I use straight detergent 30W in my trucks. Have for years. Use what you like...wouldn't use synthetic though...oil leaks.

There could be...but I try to buy like new packaged NOS items. I have two or three of most all ignition parts for each car and truck/ (trucks). Yes there could be a dead part in some of these parts stash but I have another back up part just in case. The new ignition parts made for these old MoPar flatheads today are total junk....way worse than70 year old big brand name NOS parts IMO. NOS ignition point contacts always should be cleaned of storage corrosion before using....a light brushing and use of contact cleaner.

That's great! I would buy extra "Good" ignition parts just to have. Where you find them these days is a challenge though as you now know. I prefer clean looking ,in original packaging, big name NOS parts. Factory Autolite, Sorensen etc ignition parts.

You would think Burnbaum's would know to send the correct seals after 50 years of selling them for these old MoPars.

I have run them with the top off quite a few times....the float pivot pin clip has to be tight holding the float pin down tight. I don't recommend anyone to do it though....it's a fire hazard if the fuel bowl is low....that's when there is fuel spray/slosh through the needle and seat. If the fuel bowl is full no issue.

Why clean the filter? Why set it vertical? Doesn't matter. It's a 2-1/2 ton 1952 Dodge dump I only use a couple times a year hauling property clean up debris. It's never on the road. It is all original chassis wise and always starts and runs well. All I need with that truck. Heres's another one of my my trucks engines.... all stock carbs/ fuel filters and lines as when new and as should be. There's nothing wrong with glass bowl fuel filters over the the manifolds. Ma MoPar sold them designed that way. They work and service fast and easy and don't leak if serviced properly.

The C-3105 won't do much good postioning a modern seal as modern seals are made differently than the original MoPar seals. Reason being seal lip position, seal thickness etc. The original rear trans seal is roughly 3/4" thick and has both leather and felt sealing materials used... The new modern seals have two thin rubber sealing lips and are generally 1/2" thick. The original C-3105 tool will work on the new seals but cannot drive them flush if needed. What is most important is to locate the seal lip on a perfect groove and pit free area of the machined companion flange hub. Use a speedi-sleeve if necessary. The other issue is to drive it in not too far but enough so the face of the seal is away from the companion flange. If not when tightening the companion flange onto the output shaft the seal will get caved in with out you knowing it. This happens all the time on the inner seals on rear axles in our old MoPars. The last issue with these modern replacement thin tin seals is to use a round flat edge driver that only pushes on the outside edge of the seal. Steel pipe, bearing race, proper size cup driver etc. Using a hammer and or hammer and a drift will distort these new thin to win seals which can slightly cave the seal face and seal lip inward causing leakage. Easy on the hammer blows... Use some grease on the seal lip, #2 Permatex on the companion flange splines and OD of the seal.... Or your choice of sealant. Check to be sure the lip spring is still in place. Get'er done!

Check the head for flatness...if the block needs decking you're in serious trouble.

The piston I posted a pic of is for a 4-1/16" 413ci. 30" flat head engine. The Arias spec sheet wouldn't be of much help for the 251/265 engines. The design and build cost was horrendous.

Oil pressure gauge uses the smallest oriface fitting to eliminate needle fluctation. Use the typical larger #124320 fittings on the oil filter.

Now days I would only want three ring pistons...recently had Arias make me up a custom forged set...

Yes remove the big nut and washer...mark position of pitman arm to sector shaft...use a large pitman arm puller or suitable puller to remove the pitman arm and steering shaft link from steering gear. Carefully remove the old seal...don't damage the sealing surfaces. Bad part is the gear oil will ooze out making it messy. Carefully install a new seal. Re-assemble arm and link shaft to steering gear.