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Dodgeb4ya

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Everything posted by Dodgeb4ya

  1. Don't write the check till the brakes work right!
  2. The DT throwout sleeve and bearing assembly #581498 is the same for all dodge trucks-1/2 through 2-1/2 ton trucks except Fluid drive and 2-3/4 - 4 ton models.Fits 3, 4 and 5 speed transmissions. Same goes for the separate bearing #581499 fits all except Fluid drive and 2-3/4-4 ton models.. Pics of a 1-1/2 ton bell housing-B3HH and a B3B 4 speed TO bearing and sleeve. Also shown are the return springs as mentioned above to return pedals. Bob
  3. Moose... Here is some Federal Mogul bearing Info for #1,2,and 3 236/251 main bearings out of my FM specification master parts list. Shows OE part numbers and sizing Bore/shell length ect. The 1949-50 Chrysler shop manual also shows the #'s 1,2 and 3 main bearings all the same part and width at 1-15/64". Bob
  4. I would not use those 2 center main bearings! Probably something they came up with that would fit and kinda work! NOT! Whether std truck or HD sodium vavles or Chrysler royal/windsor the shells originally fit full width in the crancase journal bores. Bob
  5. Yes..... If you own an old Dodge truck you should listen to what "Wise Way Tu" says. He is the dodge truck sales expert just like Mr Tech. Watch the old DT sales films and you will know what i'm refering too. Bob
  6. "With all the knowledge here no one suggested that the M/C valve was leaking back and could be causing all these problems." It was suggested to check/rebuild the master cylinder. You should never piece meal a brake job. Do a complete brake system rebuild on old funky brakes. If there was a rust flake in the check valve I wonder where else there are rust flakes and where those flakes were forming . I think a brakonoscopy is needed!
  7. Also check the center driveshaft carrier bearing rubber support insulator and that it is not deteriorated and loose letting the drive shafts wobble.
  8. C52= 1952 Chrysler, C53 = 1953, C54=1954. I have the same 1953 265ci. Chrysler engine I put in my 52 Dodge PU in 1974. Bob
  9. It's definately a 265 Chrysler six unless the crank has been changed. Flathead six engine stamped C52/C53 and C54 = 265 six cylnder chrysler engine. V-8 hemi's also are stamped C51, C52 ect but they are the 331 hemi V8. Kinda confusing to some I guess. Bob
  10. Have someone look while you move car forward and backwards. Ought to be obvious. Rear spring wrap up with chattering clutch?
  11. The B&B carb is the one to use not a BBR! I think Plymouth had a brain fart for a few hundred cars that got a BBR. Some where I have more info on the W1 and BBR but it's kinda not worthwhile to search for it.
  12. The 265 truck engine is used in the 1953 and up 2-1/2 ton trucks and has dual carbs and exhaust. Truck 265 is more H-Duty than a car 265 Different valves/ guides, manifolds and oil pan. The main and rod bearings are different and heavier duty parts. Oiling system and filter are plumbed different between truck and car also. Oil Pan is reversed -- sump to the front. The oil filter canister is different in design between the car and truck engines. The passenger car 265 has a different older part # for the standard passenger service rod and main bearings. The 2-1/2 ton truck 265 engine has heavy service bearings that are copper- alloy lined,with additional lead-tin overplate. Passenger car bearings rod and mains are standard service babbitt lined only. Exhaust valves in the 2-1/2 ton truck 265 engine are sodium valves with a .437" diameter stem. Intake valves are the same as the car engine. The front damper is much much bigger on the truck 265 engine compared to the Windsor car 265 engine. This information is all from the 1953 Dodge truck shop manual and misc Dodge truck salesmans DATA information sheets.
  13. Some Carter BBR1 info data for 1947 P-15... Bob
  14. I think that was a common issue from when some of the trucks were new. It was on the bigger trucks... Bob
  15. Watch you M/cyl cups for being the correct ones... some pics
  16. I'd be sure to use save the better damper pulley......
  17. There are floor panels for sale on FleaBay currently. Not too cheap though. I didn't save the search
  18. I think that somethinghas been over looked. Incorrect wheel cylinder size type. Master cylinder not operating freely-piston not free to come back to its end cap stop or improper style cups/parts in it. Flexing hoses. Air still in the lines. Weak return springs. Shoes not arced to the drums correctly. Shoes not adjusted properly. Someone who hasn't done these old lockheeds and does not know actually how they should work and feel will end up on the what do I do next merry-go-round. If it was my car I would have taken all the wheel cyls apart and and make sure they are the correct ones by the MoPar parts and shop manuals. Then properly rebuild or replace with new. Same goes for the M/cyl Replace old runbber flex hoses and carefully inspect the OE steel brake lines. Adjust all the major/ minor shoe adjustments with the miller or ammco tool-PROPERLY. Mount the drums and set final shoe to drum clearance. Pressure or vacuum bleed the system. Road test. Bob
  19. I hope your change in brake line sizing goes well. Not a common or smart thing thing to do on a stock car if it is that.
  20. The Oilite bushings are porous and can hold oil lubrication for a long time. 30W is what they were originally lubed with. I have had to replace a couple of these bushings before because of squealing noise from the transmission area.The old ones were torn up because of galling and probably lubed previously with the wrong lubricant like grease. Normally because they usually are always ok I just lightly re-oil them and the shaft. That has always worked for me. I do carefully check the bushings for proper fit with a used FD input shaft before re-using these 2 oilite bushings. I am not saying this is your problem though. Didn't we all talk about this same issue on your Dodge before?
  21. "I didn't lube the end of the shaft with anything because i read if you do it could cause knawling of the pilot bushing" The above is not true. If you use the wrong lube-like grease, yes it will seal up the Oilite bushings in the Fluid Drive coupling-it is NOT a converter and will cause the input shaft to drag. You use a light weight oil (10W will do) and just a very small amount of it to lube the input shaft before installing the transmission. The advice mentioned above is right on. Bob
  22. I think 12 volt lights double the readings!
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