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Dodgeb4ya

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Everything posted by Dodgeb4ya

  1. That control valve bottom hole is a 3/8" X 24 tpi bolt hole. The 1-1/2 thru 2-1/2 trucks use that bolt hole to mount the 2 speed rear axle control valve on a rubber insulated bracket to the firewall... up at the approximate height of the single carb air cleaner as used on most all 1-1/2 thru 2-1/2 ton trucks. On the bigger twin carb Moly Block 30" long engines the control valve has to be mounted down lower on rigid 1/2" tubing....not using a firewall mounting bracket. The reason is the rear carburetor is right up close to the firewall. So that lower threaded hole is not used.
  2. It is the factory Dodge control valve... The shift cable on yours has been changed at some point. Black vinyl covered cable ... As wallytoo said only an 1" of shift button movement up/down. Should be easy movement too...not sticky or uncomfortable to pull/push shift button.
  3. NOS crank gears for straight eights are rare as hens teeth. Cam gear's same. I have only found two crank gears in over 40 years. There are two types of chains and gears. Morse and Whitney. The timing chain ...Morse or Whitney denotes which crank and cam gears are used with the timing chain. Cannot remember the differences. 695424 cam came out in the mid 30's and is used in 1939-42 eights. That's what my 1937-42 Chrysler parts book shows. I don't have the earlier parts books. 1946-50 use the higher # sold lifter cam. The "two flats" damper is used on all 1946-50 eights that I have ever worked on. Same style damper on DeSoto and some upper line Dodges. The big thick damper is similar to what I have seen on 1934/35 323/385 engine Airflow's I have worked on. Cannot say It's exactly the same though.
  4. The float to up pipe pivot connection doesn't need or use a O-ring. That pivot connection is completely submerged in oil at all times. An incorrectly up/down float pick up adjustment is something to be sure is checked and adjusted if necessary.
  5. Great you have the engine issue fixed! As for the 2 speedrear end... When the shift button is pushed down the rear axle should never be able to upshift. It stays in low range. Pull the button up... vacuum is sent to the rear axle shift diaphram...let off the gas for a second the axle shifts into high. If the rear axle shift diaphram gets no vacuum it cannot upshift into high range at all. So..look at **A incorrectly adjusted shift button cable that operates the control valve on the firewall.. **You need to check that the shift cable operates the control valve fully both up and down. The Control valve is on the passenger side of the firewall ** The control valve internal seat gasket could be damaged and leaking admitting vacuum to the rear axle causing un- controlled upshifts. ** Check all the vacuum lines and flex hose to the rear axle diaphram for damage cracks and vacuum leakage.. **It is possible the rubber diaphram and or spring are damaged...diaphram might have cracks or is stiff and not flexible, return spring is broken. **A quick check to be sure it can stay in low range is to disconnect the vacuum hose and plug the vacuum line to the engine...drive it. Should only stay in low range. If it still tries to upshift or make noise the diaphram spring is weak/broken or the rubber diaphram is hard and not flexible. Or bell crank/ shift collar issue. Unlikely. **There are two screws on top of the differential to adjust the shift collar bell crank inside the axle...don't mess with them until all othet avenues are exhausted.
  6. There are video's of submerged arc welding of crankshafts on u-Tube.
  7. 1311228 is the late 1950 "8" production hydraulic camshaft #. 1067202 is the std. cam #. You most likely will never find any NOS Chrysler eight Wilcox-Rich lifters. I have taken these same style Dodge truck hydraulic lifters apart and carefully soaked and cleaned them with 100% sucess. The check ball cannot leak and rate of leak down needs to match the shop manual or Wilcox instructions. Keep all the lifter parts matched as built. Don't mix and match. Do not prefill them in or with oil before starting the engine. Let the running engine fill/ bleed them out. Or oil prime the engine using a pressure oil priming tank to prime the engine before starting. Make sure that the plunger is centered in the lifter body after valve machine work. Total hydraulic plunger travel is close to .150". So after all valve seat/face machine work you should check for approx..070"-.080" clearance between closed valve stem end and lifter plunger spring tip pushed firmly into lifter body. This clearance spec will keep the plunger in the center of .150" hydraulic operating range. Few C49/C50 engines had hydraulic lifters.
  8. I also don't believe ether washing the cylinder walls down. Never have had an issue using it. Would never use it on heated intakes or GP diesels. Don't use so much to cause pre- ignition either. If you don't have any sence use no ether.
  9. Sounds like you know pretty much how to move ahead with your straight eight projects. Not many have or know much about the upper line Chryslers. I just scrapped out several 1946-50 eights less the manifolds....getting older...time to thin. Have had those engines for 40+ years. Good quality parts are tough to find for the eight cylinder cars these days. Great story about your dad and cars/parts.
  10. Yes the tools make the job done right for centering the pivot shafts in the pre-loaded A-arms....have done plenty of them. Lower arm shafts generally don't wear out like the upper arms unless poor greasing history. Shown is a 56 Imperial upper Arm needing .020" spacer shim stock for proper arm spread.⁸
  11. A damaged, worn direct speed syncro ring, sleeve and input shaft will seriously affect upshifts too. Too high a cold idle speed or oily governor points will delay upshifts too.
  12. Here is a NOS M-6 MoPar clutch disc measurement, .330" Notice how close together the discs are to each other. Each facing is yes .125". Many rebuilt discs today are too thick causing adjustment issues.
  13. Some ebay sellers should be charged a inventory tax. Bring down the national debt quick.
  14. I agree the moderm chinese ones are total junk. I have soldered the wing up too. Never had one leak. I have saved up good oem used ones.
  15. 1/4" drain petcock block or radiator...
  16. Install the rubber onto the glass...large section of rubber faces into the cab. Install glass and rubber from inside of cab. Pull smaller rubber lip to outside of cab over pinch weld with 1/8" rope. Same for front and rear DT 1948-53 trucks.
  17. The coolant plugs can leak because of corrosion pitting in the plug counter bore recess. Not all blocks today have like new pit free counter bores. Also there seem to be so many plugs that are not installed properly and prematurely pop out. They really need to be driven in almost but not quite flat with a large heavy drift. 3/4 the size of the plug using a heavy 2-3 lb. Hammer. Two to three straight on moderate firm hits will fully set the 1-5/8" plugs. Installing plugs in the car or truck is difficult for sure but can be done...best to remove the inner fender panel on that situation for guaranteed results. Spend the time...install them right IMO.
  18. On that plug....oil hits it, I always use Permatex #1 or 2. The right Stuff works fine too. The coolant plugs are the critical ones to seal against leakage and possibly coming out from improper installation.
  19. As Adam H said....JB weld I do the same on the Hemi's because of high volume and pressure on HP engines. Still a good thing to use on six or eight cylinder engines. Just install them correctly using JB Weld. They will never leak or pop out.
  20. You redo those rope seal plates... Buy a set of ropes...slightly spread the rope seal plate so to be able pull out the old rope. Carefully work the new rope tightly/completely into the rope seal plate. Re-sqeeze the seal plate tight against the rope. Then work and firmly roll the new rope seal to properly match fit the crank diameter... It should not be so tight that the crank is harder to turn once the main cap is torqued. Ends of rope need to stick up above the cap mating surface about .010-.015". Lube the rope seals with oil before installing. Not fun doing this job in the car. On a stand is best.
  21. Times certainly have changed. I know a lot of good machine shops have disappeared...probably a sign of the times. Not much machine shop work needed these days compared to the past. I know you are careful in what you do. I guess you have no choice but to do it yourself. If so I'd use really good quality brushes that the bristles don't fall off into the galleys or other areas of the block. No wire brushes...might lose a wire or two somewhere and might end up in a bearing. I would use lots of super clean and or brake cleaner. It will be slow and messy buy do-able... Ya gotta do what ya gotta do!?
  22. The engine tear down/assembler owner like myself and others always needs to check over all engine machine shop work. And you have done so. If your shop leaves oil sludge in the block I'd be right back there asking...why is there still this nasty sludge left in my block when I asked that you clean it really good? I need this block properly cleaned...can you try again? If they can't...some discount on the bill and off to another "competent" shop. I have a very good machine shop I have used for over 40 years. Lucky me..?
  23. Best answer... A good machine shop that will clean that block and all it's hidden sludge in the oil galleries and all water passages too. I'd have them clean all the rods, cam, crank, lifters, oil pan,timing cover, pick up and head too. Don't let something wipe out a bearing or too.. Cleanliness is a must when rebuilding a engine...no dog or cat hairs either?
  24. To remove said vent...Right below the 3/8" vent cap is a 916" hex...use a 916" wrench or deep socket to remove the all in one bolt/ vent cap. Remove and clean it up.
  25. You probably want to be driving "Bruco" before history searching at this point...?
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