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Dodgeb4ya

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Everything posted by Dodgeb4ya

  1. If the fuel pump does not operate... Then gravity feed the carb. Make sure the can is high enough above the carb....the hose needs to come out the bottom of the fuel container to flow freely through the needle and seat... I've started many engines that way.
  2. I bet no one today really knows or cares a lot about the correct type and firmness of the rubber used on an old flat head engine mount.๐Ÿ˜Ÿ If most people don't bitch than all is good for the seller and re-pop fab man.
  3. A real beauty...awesome patina, over $8000.00 invested...I gotta puke......................................
  4. JB weld and brass... won't leak...done many on all types of MoPar engines corroded or not. Marine an absolute must... brass No corrosion issues ever .... JMO ๐Ÿ™‚
  5. That red hub denotes it's a left hand thread drum.... a way the factory and dealer stock could easily ID a LH drum. Drums should be black otherwise. RH drum all black.
  6. Dodgeb4ya

    Mitivac

    You can vacuum bleed them with the drums off but it won't accurately show any leaks. After fixing your issue loosely install the drum.. push the brake pedal down hard for 3 or 4 minutes... release the pedal.. pull the drum off and check for leaks.
  7. I use Sil-Glyde brake parts lubricant sparingly on ... ......Brake shoe anchor pivot hole, heavy oil on the O-Ring felts ......Backing plate height button and hold down spring clip ......Each end of cylinder push rod ......I also use a few drops of heavy oil on the backing plate adjusting eccentric bolt and spring so it doesn't seize up
  8. No power steering was available in 1954 according to the factory service manual, factory parts manual and Don Bunn's "Dodge C- Series Trucks" Only the the 4 Tonners had power steering. No power brakes where used on the 1954 pickups either...bigger 1-1/2 tonners up yes ๐Ÿ™‚
  9. 1954 used manual steering in all the trucks 1/2 thru 3-1/2 ton models.......except the C-1- Y heavy 4 ton models. No advice as to what to install for PS.
  10. All I have ever seen are tan colored sun visor mounting brackets for 1951-53 trucks.
  11. Dodgeb4ya

    axle seals

    Press the bearings on....and off. The best correct way.
  12. Sometimes I buy expensive cool tools just because I like them. I might not use them more than a few times. It works for me. I have a real nice old Coats (MoPar) 1010 for all my old car tire work.
  13. Now we will find out the whole truth and nothing but....
  14. Morticians work into the wee hours on cadavers at times๐Ÿ•‘....
  15. The rubber should be soft enough to push a thumbnail into it.
  16. Some new replacement mounts have rubber that's way too hard. Will cause vibration.
  17. Dodgeb4ya

    axle seals

    Pull the old seal out.... see if the new seal fits into the axle housing bore with a slight initial resistance... should have a .002 to maybe .004 interference fit into the housing. Also see if the new seal lip slips some what firmly over the axle shaft seal area.... not too tight ... not loose.
  18. The magnets can get weak causing calibration issues. Another speedo shop inspection required.
  19. They used to plate nails with a good quality thick plate coat of zinc or galvanizing. In a lot of products sold today not nearly so good . Is the electro coating .005MM or .025MM....probably the lower thickness now days compared to 30 years ago. Cadmium was also used on core plugs but is a EPA issue now days .Still used by the military though.
  20. Brass is best in marine blocks I think...steel core plugs today probably made in China with waste steel scrap.
  21. Bleeders on the calipers at the top?
  22. They are threaded to mount engine parts and ground cables to the cylinder head area of the engines in both cars and trucks. The tread size is 3/8" X 24 TPI On some of the trucks.... 1-1/2 ton on up two are used to mount the top bracket of the oil filter housing to the drivers rear side of the head. Chrysler straight eights use them to mount the air cleaner bracket on 1946-48 Cars. The head is a 1946-54 Chrysler car head... could be a valuable 265 engine๐Ÿค‘
  23. Usually the MoPar flat heads lower core plugs rust through because of a build up of sludge sitting against the core plugs. The upper plugs don't have this issue nearly as much. Right from the factory..many engines have brass core plugs installed at the front and rear of the block so they never will corrode.
  24. NAPA and others still sell that special terminal switch. Whether or not it is polarity sensitive is another question. Doubt it. 1953 and 54 MoPars use female and male bullet terminals for correct polarity.
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