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Dodgeb4ya

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Everything posted by Dodgeb4ya

  1. Dodgeb4ya

    I'm Hearing Something New...A Bearing Howling?

    You will be ok to remove a .005" from one side. If you had .025" on one side and .010" on the other I would try to balance them a little closer. Bolt the backing plates on ..give a firm dead blow wack at each end of the axles to seat the outer bearing race on the opposite side axle . This to be sure the outer bearing races are pushed tight against the backing plates before you check for accurate end play.
  2. Dodgeb4ya

    Bad Reproduction Fender Stone Guards on Ebay

    Neil Riddle is not associated vintageamericanautoparts. Thank goodness for that!๐Ÿ˜ vintageamericanautoparts is the seller of the Chinese stone shields. He is having the Mongolian Desert Chinese factories make several items now.
  3. Dodgeb4ya

    Bad Reproduction Fender Stone Guards on Ebay

    seaplym is his name on Ebay.... Ph # 206-285-6534
  4. Dodgeb4ya

    Oil pressure problem seems solved.

    The oil pressure relief valve spring generally only controls (limits) max oil pressure at higher RPM's once engine is completely hot. At a slow hot idle on the flatheads the oil pump is not generally capable of pumping enough oil thus bypassing oil to the sump via the pressure relief valve and spring. Oil type, weight and grade can affect the pressure regulation as most already know too.๐Ÿ™‚
  5. Dodgeb4ya

    Fluid Drive Stumble Help

    You most certainly were blessed by Jim and Tammy Faye Baker!
  6. Dodgeb4ya

    Fluid Drive Stumble Help

    So you are saying that changing the 3 speed transmission fluid to GL1 90W fixed both your take off stumble and smoothed out your idle too?
  7. A person that I got to know new I was looking for one of these 413 flatheads and he heard of one for sale out of a 1954 Dodge 4 tonner, told me about it and here it is delived today! Supposed to be a runner too. These engines are one of the rarest of all Mopar truck engines as the trucks they came in are really low production 1953-1956. Repair parts other than gaskets and fuel system parts don't exist. I have always been on the hunt for this big bore/long stroke unusual engine. 30+ years later I have a back up for big red-my 1953 4 tonner. I'm really happy tonight! Bob
  8. Dodgeb4ya

    NiCopp Brake Lines

    very Nice work!
  9. Dodgeb4ya

    Which truck is this part for?

    looks for sure like it will fit 1 ton thru 2-3/4 ton all models and more.... depending on year! The cap has stamped instructions on the end of it so as mentioned already possibly military stating service instructions.
  10. Dodgeb4ya

    ? about oil pan removal

    I usually do pull the long steering rod and end off just to have a wide open work area... only takes a few minutes... just my way of doing things๐Ÿ™‚
  11. Dodgeb4ya

    ? about oil pan removal

    Absolutely...might want to remove the steering linkage rods if in the way..easy pan R&R job.
  12. Dodgeb4ya

    NAPA Signal Flasher

    All new stock 6V flashers are import junk sorry to say. That happened at least 10 years ago. None of them anywhere being sold are any good.
  13. Dodgeb4ya

    1953 Suburban with a V8

    There's a drip under your truck too Paul.
  14. Dodgeb4ya

    1953 Suburban with a V8

    That picture with the BLACK oil leaking out from under the car certainly makes it not the most desirable car. Wonder what else is weak?โ‰๏ธ
  15. Dodgeb4ya

    New 1936 Chrysler

    A beautiful C2 1935 Imperial Airflow cpe I've done a bunch of work on. Airflows are a very special car for sure.
  16. Dodgeb4ya

    New 1936 Chrysler

    Now you better join the Airflow Club of America! Nice car ! ๐Ÿ™‚ 323 eight with Overdrive?
  17. Is the push rod all the way in the groove on the forward shoe?๐Ÿ™‚ A very small dab of Sil Glyde is good on the pins and felts. Nice job!
  18. Dodgeb4ya

    I'm Hearing Something New...A Bearing Howling?

    Now is the time!
  19. Dodgeb4ya

    I'm Hearing Something New...A Bearing Howling?

    The modern new bearings seem to always require a different shim stack for me... I've done three cars in the last year. Never use commie parts!
  20. Dodgeb4ya

    I'm Hearing Something New...A Bearing Howling?

    Shims are not easily available.... especially in the thinner range. .012 on up are more common IMO.
  21. Dodgeb4ya

    I'm Hearing Something New...A Bearing Howling?

    You need to have both axles properly installed to check each axle shaft end play! There is a square steel block in the center of the diff that each axle pushes against. It is always loose and floppy on a pinion gear shaft and without both axle ends pushing against this center block you will get this false end play with one axle pulled out. The shop manual and others here can guide you more on this fun learning project of adjusting Mopar tapered rear axle bearings with even shims side to side... .003to .008" end play.
  22. Dodgeb4ya

    Got my 413 Flathead Delivered Today

    Shown Here... the Chrysler 323 "8" flathead lifter oiling tubes and STD adjustable NON Hydraulic tappets in block. I don't have a hydraulic "X" straight "8" I thought i had... might have scrapped it sadly. The oil tubes direct oil from the main galley oiling cross tube to the tappet oil galleys. The engine block for either std or hydraulic tappets is the same part#. The "Wilcox-Rich" hydraulic tappets used in the Chrysler flathead "8" are the same design/style as in the 413 DT six... also used in eight and V12 Cadillacs and Packard etc. To convert a Chrysler six to hydraulic lifters is going to require engineering to provide a pressure oiling system to each lifter....a oiling groove around each lifter in the block. Then just finding the lifters and getting valve to lifter dimensions correct if even possible with these NA hydraulic mushroom lifters.
  23. Dodgeb4ya

    Got my 413 Flathead Delivered Today

    Here are pictures of the 413 hydraulic removable tappet guide assemblies. Later I will try to post pics of the uncommon 1950 Chrysler flathead eight hydraulic tappet setup. Oil pump pressure is fed into the removable 413 tappet guides to feed the hydraulic tappets. Those (2) steel tubes front/ rear are std design on oiling the Chrysler 8 tappets. I will post pics of this later...
  24. Dodgeb4ya

    Time for an overhaul...

    One thing tough about the modern U-joint conversions is the nuts are in a tight spot...slow to tighten. You can not get a socket on them... only a open end wrench 1/4 turn @ a time๐Ÿคฃ
  25. Dodgeb4ya

    I'm Hearing Something New...A Bearing Howling?

    First odd... carefully look at the bearing rollers and outer race. Do you see any pitting, flaking dis-coloring? The inner race is hard to see damage..but.. To get an idea if the bearing assembly is likely good or bad.. Clean/Flush out the bearing on the axle and race then lightly oil it...say like 3 in 1 oil.. Then...Push the outer bearing race tight against the bearing cone and rotate the race back and forth on the cone ...is it flawlessly smooth or you feel some roughness? Ant lumps or roughness if the bearing is really clean after doing the above probably means a bad bearing, (outer race, inner race or rollers). Shown below is a real bad one off a 53 Plymouth Savoy wagon I once drove... it didn't make a lot of noise either! Also a tiny pit in a quiet U-joint cross off a 56 Chrysler.. all bad things to see... All bearing surfaces have to be 100% perfect in appearance.
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