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Everything posted by Dodgeb4ya

  1. That is probably an export car. Maybe Canadian. I can only look at US codes. Code 15 is Black...all 1946-48 US cars.
  2. Hole to the lower side of distributor. Inside of the cap is the 1" alignment tab ...fit correctly to the distributor housing notch.
  3. Follow what the tire manufacturer states.
  4. In the late 80's I bought five (5) DT 1948-53 NORS floor mats for $29.95 each from JC Whitney. Great quality a design and fit. A great $ deal and still have two left for my trucks when I get old. Another friend bought at least 5 more himself to resale back then. Then JC had no more a month later.....I would have bought some more too as I had been always looking for mats for my trucks for a long time.
  5. I had to pay an outrageous high price of $10.00 for a rear mail seal to Frank for a rear main seal for my Chrysler straight eight in 1975. I couldn't find one anywhere after advertising in Hemmings for month's and many more letters sent all over the US. I asked him if he could maybe drop the cost...😁.....but it was a no go. He knew his parts. I've been buying NOS MoPar for years and hate cheap after market repro crap and China crap and... well now days I just pay the price with in reason for correct nice clean quality parts. I want to do the job one time, quickly fits right works right and lasts hopefully for years. I'll pay higher prices for the good stuff from good vendors💲
  6. Mitchell was and AMS still is high priced. If you want clean nice NOS ya gotta pay the price. I do.
  7. 4 under might be another warning, Ha ha🤯
  8. I did a clutch job on a 1956 1/2 ton PU that had the R10 OD in it a few years back. An original truck..
  9. Dodge trucks... as far as I know never offered an OD on any 1/2 ton PU's 1941 -52. They did in the bigger 1-1/2 tonners starting in around 1951 in the 5 speeds...4th direct, 5th OD gear.
  10. B1/2 trucks.....the flat nose series... I decided to move into the B3/4 trucks as I couldn't stand all the attention my 48 flat nose was getting.......that from the dogs peeing on it's tires.😁 They never bothered the B3's.. Oh a pic of the park lamp cable into the housing...
  11. It sure is...first loosen the lug nuts a bit Then just jack up under the lower control arm with a full sized floor jack..one that does not leak down... remove the tire Have a stand under the frame horn area for safety if the jack were to fail... Remove the outer upper pin Pull the steering knuckle out just enough to be able to remove the threaded in bushing...don't let the knuckle and drum pull on the brake hose....Oh and remove the shock at one end or altogether. Reverse order to re-assemble.
  12. Possibly you got the mat from Mitchell Motor Parts...now AMS. Original owner Frank Mitchell now deceased.
  13. That NOS floor mat should be offered as a pattern to make correct pattern replacement floor mats for those looking for a nice fitting mat. None have been available.since the late 70's.
  14. That Caddy needs to be restored.
  15. Acedic acid cure silicone will cause rusting of metals. Neutral cure type won't.
  16. That brass plug has been fully expanded into the core hole recess with a large diameter driver with JB applied before and after the brass plug installation.
  17. I can get the carb # for you tomorrow. Done Number 3-126 Stromberg. These WW's were used 1956 thru 1958 Plymouth and Dodge...
  18. Yep they did make that set up... not common though... Here are a couple pics....Young Ed has one ....
  19. Your wire is not burn't..it is old and frayed. Typical of old cloth and rubber insulated automotive wire. The female bullet connector looks to have old age corrosion.
  20. 1949 and 50 chrysler clusters are identical as to looks and service. There was a thread about this same cluster service about a year ago... Remove the 3 cluster screws Remove the clamp and rubber firewall seals that retain the speedo cable,temp and oil gauge lines at the firewall.This will let the cluster to be pulled out of the dash just enough to get at the oil line/ hose assembly to replace it. I've had to replace a couple.of them on my chryslers.
  21. Have you checked the top to bottom of the block and radiator with a infrared thermometer continuously as the engine and rad warm up? The rad should have no cool spots anywhere on it once the engine is up to 200+....if the engine heats quick to 200... the lower 1/2 of the rad is still say 80 degrees, upper half warm to hot... that generally means no coolant circulation. Once the thermostat immediately opens the whole rad will get hot...upper 1/2 warmer than the lower 1/2 I can tell this easily with my hand. As for how good does a machine shop clean out the block coolant passages.....I don't think ever well enough. It's possible the new radiator is blocked.. Why don't you pull the hoses off it ......Plug the lower outlet..fill it full... pull the lower outlet plug...you should see a 6" thick high stream of water immediately pour out and empty the rad completely...and fast! I ran this Mopar six for 45 minutes...just a good old running engine and it runs about 170 degrees in the hot summer heat... stock fan ane a way too small rad.
  22. Did you try the dimmer switch......???
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