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Dodgeb4ya

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Everything posted by Dodgeb4ya

  1. Dodgeb4ya

    1946 Dodge fluid drive clutch replacement

    You can leave the input shaft in the trans to replace the bearing the easy way described below. The other way is to completely disassemble the trans, dropping down the cluster gear which then lets you pull out the input shaft on your 3 speed to R&R the bearing. A lot of techie work if you've never done one. So here's the way I do them if the trans just needs the front bearing............. *Remove the retainer *Remove the smaller shaft snap ring and spacer washer.. *Pull the shaft out as much as you can...... 1/32" to 1/16" is all you will get.. *Wedge and hold two screw drivers on each side of the bearing OD snap ring on the input shaft bearing... wedge outward on the bearing snap ring with both screw drivers while at the same time using a brass or dead blow hammer on the end of the input shaft..... light tapping the input shaft causing the the wedged bearing to walk outward and off the input shaft. *You will have to use two thicker wedge tools as the bearing walks back off the input shaft and out of the case further and further till loose. *Carefully lightly tap the new proper exact same shielded bearing back on the input shaft. Your old bearing should have a shield on the oil side (inner) of the trans and outer snap ring. *Install the spacer washer, snap ring , gasket and retainer once the bearing is fully seated back on the input shaft.******** *********Use care and no big hammer swings!*********
  2. Dodgeb4ya

    1946 Dodge fluid drive clutch replacement

    Yeah... But the small front one wasn't installed causing a lot of input shaft wobble..taht long input shaft needs two bushings.
  3. Dodgeb4ya

    1946 Dodge fluid drive clutch replacement

    That wobble in the FD is normal without the Transmission installed into it. That's why I mentioned to not move the hub and plate anymore than necessary side to side. With the trans installed and with both proper fitted bushings there is NO wobble of the FD coupling fully assembled. As for your input shaft and front bearing being loose with out the front bearing retainer installed...yeah it will be quite loose. Put the retainer and gasket on it as per the shop manual info...then see how loose it is. The front bearing very well could be worn because of no or worn pilot bushings as you have..
  4. Dodgeb4ya

    Chrysler/Plymouth Flat head Rebuild

    It's an excellent video for those who are not familiar with what's involved in machining and rebuilding the Mopar flat heads. A little long for me but very nice to see this Flat head video series instead of watching the dime a dozen Chevy Ford or Mopar V8 rebuilds.
  5. Dodgeb4ya

    1946 Dodge fluid drive clutch replacement

    The plate is just set back on and tightened up good and tight... no torque specs given.
  6. Dodgeb4ya

    1946 Dodge fluid drive clutch replacement

    You can leave the key in and use a curcular plug to completely cover the FD threaded hub and use a puller to push against that steel plug. It will need to be 1/4" thick though. Some of those driven plates are tough to pop off. Merles way to pull it is a good way. Use what ever you want to pull the plate just make sure the puller is heavy duty enough and centered/ pulling exactly straight up. Be gentle/ careful with this operation not using the factory tools... don't force the hub off center etc.
  7. I hope that isn't the one I am going to be doing some work on
  8. Dodgeb4ya

    1946 Dodge fluid drive clutch replacement

    The factory tool pushes right at the top narrow edge of the hub where the nut screws in... Be careful of the key.
  9. Dodgeb4ya

    Chrysler industrial engines

    The sodium guides fit any block. Seats are the same either way.
  10. Dodgeb4ya

    Chrysler industrial engines

    Heavy duty service sodium exhaust valve engines use .437" bronze valve guides. This compared to std. duty engines using .3438" diameter cast iron guides and Std solid stem exhaust valves. Both engines use the same hardened stellite exhaust valve seats in the block.
  11. Dodgeb4ya

    Interchangeable Starters?

    1942 on up to 1948 Chrysler and desoto are all the same...starter motor and canted inward solenoid Autolite MAX 4050 . The Hollander shows the MAX 4045 as fitting 1941 Chrysler all models but interchanges on some models of chrysler back to 1938 only. I looked up the starter pinion nose housing between the 1941 and 1942-48 ...they are different probably because of the different methods of stater motor solenoid and manual pedal engagement. All internal parts are the same. I'd be careful and try to find the correct MAX4050 complete good operating starter. The sloenoids have a tough life on a eight cylinder car. I've dealt with many over the years. Parts are tough to find for sure...especially that 1946-48 solenoid.
  12. Dodgeb4ya

    Vacuum Advance Connection

    Nice work and attention to detail^^^^^^^
  13. Dodgeb4ya

    1946 Dodge fluid drive clutch replacement

    I have heard and seen companies that cut them open to rebuild them...then the customer gets it back leaking or vibrating....way diiferent than a torque converter. Don't mess with rebuilding one other than putting seals in one.
  14. Dodgeb4ya

    Heater Options on a D24 Sedan

    Fresh Air Package and Dual Heaters is the cats meow.
  15. Dodgeb4ya

    Interchangeable Starters?

    1946-48 Chrysler DeSoto starters will require you to draw from your 401K to pay for one. They can be very trouble some and costly.
  16. Dodgeb4ya

    1946 Dodge fluid drive clutch replacement

    1-7/8" is what the factory wrench and nut measures out at.
  17. Dodgeb4ya

    1946 Dodge fluid drive clutch replacement

    I'll go measure one shortly..
  18. Dodgeb4ya

    1946 Dodge fluid drive clutch replacement

    I used the factory Miller tool to set both bushings at one time. The proper sized seal/bushing driver could be used to install the bushings. Start them straight of course. As for the interference fit...???? never had to deal with checking that but I would maybe guess the FD hub bore .002-.003" smaller than the bushing. Just a guess. They do pound down in with a fairly tight fit. As for preventing rocking of the FD driven plate.... yes the copper bellows and carbon graphite seals can crack or leak if care is not taken to prevent excessive tilt of the driven plate with or W/O the clutch cover installed. You have to remember the minute you pull the transmission out of the FD coupling there now is no support and loss of alignment the driven plate and clutch pressure plate. The whole driven plate assembly now sags some what..... Just be careful handling the FD coupling while working on it. I have never used wedges on all the FD work I have ever done. Be careful as to how tight the wedges are if you go that route as you could pull the FD inner ball bearing to the rear compressing the graphite ring and bellows seal. That front ball bearing is a semi tight fit and can loosen with time...but shouldn't. be careful and gentle with any FD coupling..
  19. Dodgeb4ya

    Power top

    Rubber boots and canvas worm drive covers.....usually gone unless a original well kept car.
  20. Dodgeb4ya

    Got a lot of money......?

    Maybe the National Chrysler Club should buy it.
  21. Dodgeb4ya

    Me and the B-1-D

    Sometimes I haul loads anyway..😄
  22. Dodgeb4ya

    1946 Dodge fluid drive clutch replacement

    The lower bushing goes down into and below that lower step.
  23. Dodgeb4ya

    Me and the B-1-D

    In Washington state a collector YOM plate on a truck means you cannot haul loads with it.😪
  24. Dodgeb4ya

    1946 Dodge fluid drive clutch replacement

    The parts book I have shown info out of is a factory 1946-48 Dodge car parts book.
  25. Dodgeb4ya

    1946 Dodge fluid drive clutch replacement

    The FD Hub with bushings removed....
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