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Everything posted by Dodgeb4ya

  1. Thy are a special "Acme" type thread. I'd use Loctite thread locker Red if you feel the need. What's the issue?
  2. Good going!
  3. Possibly an issue with the FD two pilot bushings. They could cause the input shaft to keep turning. Did you lube them with some kind of grease? Hopefully not. Only should use a very slight amount of thin oil on them if anything.
  4. Yes the screw can be removed....... What it looks like.....
  5. Too wide of seat to valve face contact can be a bad thing. Carbon flaking build up on the seat can occur because of this. The correct .060" to .085" seat to valve face contact width will help to prevent valves from not completely seating at times because of this possible carbon contamination. The correct seat width will chisel any carbon flakes and prevent carbon build up on the seats causing over heating valves and loss of compression. Seat contact area is critical too... not all the way out to the valve face margin and not all the way in either.
  6. Maybe the pickup float adjustable tangs ( drop and height) are out of adjustment? Mainly the height adjustment tang......
  7. I should have said a super rare and desirable car.
  8. Well we tried! Keep us informed....
  9. There will be some sparks initially as you connect the last cable.... I'm not sure how you are doing it but I just use H-Duty battery jumper cables. Did the starter begin to spin at all?
  10. Remove the copper strap from the starter stud to solenoid stud and once again connect the positive ground cable to the starter case... Then the negative cable to a nut on the starter motor stud... starter should spin up to bout 4300 RPM. All this just to be sure the starter works by passing the solenoid...then on to the solenoid issue.
  11. My mistake...negative cable goes to the inner stud with the strap to directly power the starter... just to test the starter portion.
  12. Does the solenoid make any click sound? Negative (-) Battery cable hooked to the large stud opposite the inner strap stud?..........Positive (+) cable to case ground... And you are grounding the top inner small stud then hot wiring the top outer small stud? Have you directly powered the starter motor by passing the solenoid to see that the starter motor itself runs?
  13. That's a rare car. I used to work on a S10 42 DeSoto 5th Ave 3 pass coupe. Went to Sweden.
  14. Another thread I need not look at. Sorry
  15. A carter B&B would be much easier to service and parts are easily available here in the states.
  16. The tappet assemblies the book is referring to are only on the H-Duty 30" long truck engines and are removable as an assembly holding six lifters each.. The 23" and 25" engines do not have removable lifter assemblies as you know.
  17. You received a box marked with the correct part # but with the wrong earlier seal in it with out the two notches. Did the seller provide pictures of it before you bought it? Anyway buy a graphite seal with the two notches. As for the one it should be correct as it has the two grooves. No hassle return so says the seller.
  18. A 1935 Chrysler CW Airflow It speaks Art Deco....
  19. I'd be interested in what the AB starter repair kit consists of for the 1942-48 Chrysler and Desoto starters . Most all of the wear/ trouble with those style starters is in the solenoid area..
  20. Is the brake lining thickness over .185 ??" Are your drums at the original spec of 10.00" and not turned oversize? if so I'd get the shoe lining thickness back to the OE manufacturer .185" spec and have them arc each set of shoes to match each drum size. Those look like the Chineeeese long piston cylinders... you have to use the shorter push rods with those too.
  21. Factory design D24 looks way cooler
  22. The governor points were probably submerged in oil. No downshift.
  23. Picture is fuzzy! Probably on purpose so we all won't be able to sleep not knowing what that part is! Dog Gone It!
  24. I like these..... One I'm just trying to finish up..... a 1948 Chrysler NewYorker 3 passenger straight "8" cpe.....
  25. It won't leak exhaust gas (noise) unless the tube is burned out where it goes through the middle of exhaust manifold.