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Dodgeb4ya

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Everything posted by Dodgeb4ya

  1. If everyone would return and tell the manufacturer about their junky product maybe these garbage products would be not so common. I DO return things that are no good as now dys I think the product makers hope no one will return and or make a stink about their junk. It hurts their bottom line.. profits drop.
  2. When the e-brake is pulled on the left map light should blink letting you know the e-brake is still on.
  3. Glad to hear you didn't cut up the new harness! I try to determine faded cloth wire colors by going further along a wire and using a razor blade scraping the cloth wire covering lightly to see if I can bring out some of the original color.. Or by following the wire into the original factory taped harness area ...slitting it open and then try to find and see the original color of the wire. The wire diagram in the factory shop manual shows all the correct wire colors and exactly where they go. There are three production serial # changes that are not shown in the wire diagrams. IE horn relay location changed... starter button moved... turn signal and high beam indicator light locations moved ect. It does seem like your issue is at the black six pin body connector. I'm currently working on a 1935 chryler CW Airflow installing a complete new harness..a very complicated harness as the car is a limosine and has a lot of accessory equipment. The colors of the wires and what they connect to are generally the same as your C38 chrysler and even a say 300D Chrysler! Mopar wire colors and what they go to have been the same for years! You will get it figured out! Bob
  4. I think the only correct working way is to remove the dash. I would say DO NOT SPLICE the new wires to the old faded wires. You need to use the factory wiring diagram as a back up and take your time. A week if need be. With the dash pulled apart and layed on its face in the car you can carefully and correctly rewire all the electrical fixed to the dash..
  5. I've seen and been told of FD coupling leakage after a complete fluid change. The FD three sealing surfaces....copper bellows seal surface, the FD inner seal surface plus the graphite seal ring can sometimes leak after a fluid change. These couplings are something you do not want to have fixed especially if they work well and do not leak. I just had a guy with a C38 woodie that was the type of guy everything should be taken apart and serviced including his FD coupling even though it worked fine. Now he is in search of a good coupling as a company in texas told him they could fix his leaking FD...they really frucked it up and now it does not leak but has severe vibration after they cut it open to rebuild it. I do know many people do the fluid change on these couplings (see James Douglas ) spending hours draining and filling them.. I have several cars with FD couplings and have never touched them in over 30 years... they work fine and do not leak. I have re-sealed quite a few couplings over the years too as the early copper bellows type get pin holed (flexing) and the graphite ring gets severely pitted . I'ts JMO to leave it alone and be safe if it works good and does not leak..
  6. How about a "Lily" camera drone you throw up in the air and it will follow and film what you are doing.....http://www.wired.com/2015/05/lily-robotics-drone/
  7. It is a stud and 3/8" nut (4) that holds the cluster in. Not a fun job. Access is terrible! I've done several complete C38/C39 wiring harness jobs...but dash out on complete resto jobs. A pic of the back of my c39 original dash and wiring barely showing one of the nut and studs lower left marked in red. Bob
  8. The little dash switch to the left is for the lower round dash panel courtesy lights.
  9. FYI there is a NOS 1949-50 Coronet steering wheel on epay. No crack filling required. Just saw that old crusty wheel off to get at your horn ring and cap! I was going to post the link.... but am a bit too tired to go back and get it right now. Old age you know
  10. The Stadco Lifesaver I posted pics of is completely electrically controlled.
  11. I think it's a Stadco traffic light that hangs in the car rear window and it's colors of green red and amber are controlled by the gas and brake pedals PP is talking about.
  12. I really confused now on this setup! Lets see some pictures!
  13. Heres a rebuilt DTG1 carb on ebay....http://www.ebay.com/itm/111669345287?item=111669345287&viewitem=&vxp=mtr.
  14. Yeah... maybe it is a 1952 or even a early 1953 It's a 1951. Has the early style compressor governer and the serial # proves what year and model it is! It's a 51... a 1951 that is. Bob
  15. Did you have or find the special oil pump O-ring to seal the pump cover?
  16. That chrome cap is held on by three spring clips. Pop the chrome cap and medallion off as one piece! The three screws only hold the horn ring retainer on... undrneath the top chrome cover. Bob
  17. Looks like this? Three screws hold the horn button to the steering wheel.... Bob
  18. I too say do your own lines. No one has the 100% correct line kit for our old MoPars. They sell em and hope you will make do with what they send you... at an unreasonable price to boot I have plenty of brake line flaring tools to be able to do any type of flare up to 1/2" stainless tube.. Good quality flaring tools are a must for leak free double flaring of brake lines.
  19. Wow.... First time I've heard of a dodge truck called a him! Nice to know it will be a "Man" truck!
  20. I think I will need a funeral home..not another home when my cars/trucks and bull dozers go on the market!
  21. Noel Green.. a medium metallic was a 1946-49 Chrysler Town and Country convertible only color as far as I can find info on. I own a 48 T&C convertible that Noel color. The paint code #23 Noel Green is not shown in the factory 1949 Chrysler paint and upholstry book. But.. a code #22 Continental green painted page (looks the same as Noel Green) is shown. Only red is shown as a convertible only color in this same 1949 chrysler paint and upholstry book. According to the Town and Country registry code #23 Noel Green is shown as being used only 1949 Town and Country convertibles for 1949. Post a pic of your body info tag... Bob
  22. I'm going to be just like that old man in a few years!
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