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Dodgeb4ya

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Everything posted by Dodgeb4ya

  1. If the cables are good and clean.. and you have a good block/starter ground then most likely the relay points or the copper stud and washer contacts. Thats a common issue with these 1941-50 Chrysler and DeSoto solenoids. Parts are hard to find for these Autolite starters and solenoids. As mentioned good cables battery and connections need to be checked carefully first. Your starter /solenoid relay... Bob
  2. Drop the pan...? Now you may as well pull all the rod and main caps .. mike the journals, check the bearing bores, hot tank the pan,oil PU and also do an oil analysis. Hope you don't find anything worn. Nah... just do your flywheel work and move on.
  3. There is no reason at all to pull the engine just to remove the flywheel say during a standard clutch job and to R&R the flywheel for surfacing. VPW is out to lunch on this question!
  4. I suppose if you ripped the muffler off driving through a ditch late at night the trip home would seem very fast with so much more unleashed power!!!
  5. Well Don my bubble did break when I was 16 and blew up my transmission thinking I had a hot dog 1951 plymouth with my new Mallory Double Life and 1958 dodge 8.0-1 head. I also was replacing drivelines because when I raised the rear end of the car with foot long chrome shackles from JC Whitney I learned about correct driveline angularity. So I gave up the thoughts of having a kinda built up hot rod plymouth years ago. I still have that same car with the head and Mallory though... and the 8 track deck with Chicago and Steppenwolf tapes!
  6. I used to try and do some burn outs in my 51 plymouth when I was started driving. 2nd or 3rd time I broke a tooth on 1st gear and the cluster. Never did that again.
  7. I think the noise and rumble with dual exhaust and carbs makes you think you have a little more um-mph a go-go....... Plus you don't realize you push down the go pedal a lot harder because you think you are 16 again!
  8. Trans gear issue? Ya did do a burn out ya know!
  9. George Asche should know the stock 251 and or the 265 head thickness. I measured the head thickness on a 1954 265 automatic engine I have and it's 1.925"
  10. The far right piston and cup design could partially block the fluid flow... the other too would not. Piston, piston push rod, shoe lining thickness or shoe adjustment could all cause your issue.
  11. Oh no mine is not for sale as I keep it and one other as an extra for my 1946-48 Chryslers..sorry. I posted a pic of mine to show that the switches were the same and to show those springs.
  12. Merle, I think this is like your jack....you got a good deal on it!
  13. There is a strainer in the M-6 trans. An Oil flush won't clean it out. You have to remove it to clean it. Shown is an M-5 trans filter but similar.
  14. I Use 00 Stens Grease. It's semi pourable grease.
  15. How about Cat repairs....http://www.belzona.com/assets/pdfs/XXII_13.pdf
  16. You might not want to pay the cost though!
  17. Has anyone found one of the #630 flip top screw jacks like I posted in a 1/2 or 3/4 ton PU? The 2-3/4 thru 4 ton trucks had an accessory hydraulic jack listed in the Dodge truck fact book for 1952.
  18. Add some "Oxydol" to non detergent oils. Cleans like you cannot believe.
  19. I don't want to get into legal trouble saying to use 5W-20!!! So I'm also letting others know what is 100% by the book. I break the rules all the time seeing what I can get away with so I can learn other avenues and possibly better ways to service and repair these old MoPars. Dump three pints of 5W-20 in that M-5 and let us know how it works! Bob
  20. I didn't miss the point. Put your 5W-20 in it. It will work fine. BUT..... The book says as does the trans tag.... use only 10W
  21. Looks like 49 dodge is the same too! Make sure the springs are there as in the pic as if not the switch will not operate correctly!
  22. The drag link end cap and proper drag link socket bit....
  23. ^^^^ That's the right answer. Just change it.
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