Dodgeb4ya
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Everything posted by Dodgeb4ya
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The engine tear down/assembler owner like myself and others always needs to check over all engine machine shop work. And you have done so. If your shop leaves oil sludge in the block I'd be right back there asking...why is there still this nasty sludge left in my block when I asked that you clean it really good? I need this block properly cleaned...can you try again? If they can't...some discount on the bill and off to another "competent" shop. I have a very good machine shop I have used for over 40 years. Lucky me..?
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Best answer... A good machine shop that will clean that block and all it's hidden sludge in the oil galleries and all water passages too. I'd have them clean all the rods, cam, crank, lifters, oil pan,timing cover, pick up and head too. Don't let something wipe out a bearing or too.. Cleanliness is a must when rebuilding a engine...no dog or cat hairs either?
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To remove said vent...Right below the 3/8" vent cap is a 916" hex...use a 916" wrench or deep socket to remove the all in one bolt/ vent cap. Remove and clean it up.
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You probably want to be driving "Bruco" before history searching at this point...?
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For a upper line Plymouth Cranbrook that picture shows the typical 500 series heater that you usually find in the Cranbrook line of cars.
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Did you ever try to get the build sheet from Chrysler or who ever they are these days??
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The heater hoses are only connected to the heater control valve for by pass purpose only. The model 500/550 MoPar heater box and duct are missing.
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You might look on ebay for one...
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A small bolt attaches the heat chamber cover to the manifold using that threaded hole.
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Breath on a few drops of never opened DOT3/4 brake fluid and see how fast/much the boiling point drops using your testor. Compare teadings to testing new right out of the bottle. Or leave a small amount in a cup outside in damp weather for an hour... Shocking how fast DOT3/4 absorbs water. Glycol DOT 5.1 is even worse.? If your brake fluid is amber...it's in need of change.
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The 1949-50 Plymouth /Dodge optional E-brake signal light kit is #1300961.
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Been just south of Beebe Bridge many times...summer time entertainment on the Columbia...?
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Most likely an option on the Dodge. All the Chryslers have the e-brake light as std. equipment.
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It's going to look like one of these.
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Dodge used the governors as rpm limiters. As for the E9K1 carbs they are slightly larger flow carb than the ETT1. Main jet for the E9K1...334 CC Main jet for the older ETT1...312-316 CC per minute. The accelerator pump discharge jet is a bit bigger on the ETT1 than the E9K1. E7T2 is a direct newer replacement for theETT1. All three of these carbs are close in spec.
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Those square shafts are easy to safely wedge out of the pot metal door and trunk handles. There are different lengths of those square shafts depending on model of the car.
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Neil Riddle up in Shoreline (aka...ebay "seaplym" ) will have those MoPar split torque shaft bearings.
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No fuse (blown) the trans will always imediately upshift and never downshift till complete dead stop.
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Clean the governor points carefully. No files or sandpaper. Electrical contact cleaner and a lint free cloth.
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As mentioned...No toe in/out on the MoPar rear axle.
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You will have to remove the temp sender fom the head and pull it thru the firewall...first removing the firewall clamp ring and rubber seal. Removing the temp bulb in the head might just easily come out... be gentle trying to pull it out...but if not the soft plug above the bulb needs to be removed so a screw driver can be used to wedge the sender bulb out of the head fitting. Removing the gauge from the cluster and letting it hang is risking damage to the gauge needle and face. The oil line to gauge also needs removal.
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Yes it is....
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1954 dodge C1 exhaust manifold.
Dodgeb4ya replied to Dustin Baker's topic in Mopar Flathead Truck Forum
The part# of your exhaust manifold can be located on the flat underside of said manifold. -
Having the OE MoPar part # always helps locating the correct parts much faster.
