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Dodgeb4ya

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Everything posted by Dodgeb4ya

  1. The inner rear drum seals are different on the Eaton 2 speed heavy duty from the single speed and std duty 2 speed axles. Your OE MoPar rear inner drum seal is... #574563. This fits all series JA 2 speed trucks. My Master CR seal book shows it converts to a 33807. Bob
  2. Are you interested in rebuilding the early 40's and back water pumps. I might have some kits.
  3. You might get a second opinion on crank end play before you condem it. Flathead thrust bearings can wear (I've read respnses here on this) but I have not seen it in any I have worked on. Over the years at least 2-300 of them!
  4. The original woven shoes on one of my 2-3/4 tonners had no bevel on the shoes and is correct. Bob
  5. Your statement above is telling that you have minimal end play. The reason I said to grab and push/pull just the front vane/ring gear portion of the FD coupling-NOT the rear clutch part is that the front secttion is ridgedly bolted to the crankshaft and is the easy way to feel for end play movement of the crank. If lower dust cover is removed and the FD coupling is exposed this is the best way. There is a lot of mass in the coupling and will make it obvious if there is "IE" 1/16"-1/8" of bad front to rear end play (back and forth) of crankshaft movement . You want to be sure you are checking this crankshaft end play accurately or you will end up rebuilding the engine and putting it all back together just to have the same problem. On a good engine you will not feel much if any end play in the crankshaft.
  6. You can grab the fluid drive "vane part of the coupling" and try to move it froward and backward. Shouldn't move more than .003-.010". That will tell you if the crank has excess end play. If the crank end play is ok the noise might be coming from the FD seal area and or the FD front bearing being worn out.
  7. Sounds like it got fixed with out too much trouble!
  8. Wow! Just like the originals-woven linings! Look good.
  9. Black loom tape is what is used by companies who make wiring looms even today. It is a tape that looks and feels like regular electrical tape but has no adhesive on one side. The purpose of it is so it will give and let the wrapped wire harniss bend and curve easily for installation. When regular electrical tape is used the thick wrapped harniss is somewhat difficult to bend and get it to stay in place. The factory MoPar wrapped harnisses usually have the special non adhesive black "loom" tape tied at the end of a wrap so it will not unravel. You cannot tie a knot with regular sticky electrical tape. Non adhesive Loom tape is kinda hard to find. I think eastwood sells it.
  10. When driveshafts vibrate enough they can fail in a scary way. Your new trunnion pin came loose in the driveshaft.The drive shaft hole is now too big for a tight press fit Yes it costs money to fix things right sad to say. I've sure spent more than I like at times on my old stuff. The old car/truck hobby can cost an arm and a leg. Thats for sure especially if you try to cheat on vehicle safety items. You should get it fixed right for the other drivers safety too. See what the machinest says. The shaft cannot be balanced if the pin is loose or comes loose again. Bob
  11. I didn't think dodge trucks used asphalt coated loom? Don't they use Cloth/rubber insulated wire and black loom tape? Bob
  12. I think it will be kinda "Tanky" to drive around town and not a good freeway driver. Don't mess with the rear end as parts are not easily available for that "IRS" rear axle assembly.. I'd leave it stock but make sure all the drive train is up to snuff 100%. It's an around towner. Start delivering bread cookies and milk!
  13. I'd get the shaft converted to a modern type U-joint at this point if it were mine. Peace of mind is relaxing!
  14. A picture of the dreaded "Widow maker" split in the middle rim. Was not used on 40's and 50's Dodge trucks. Mostly Ford and GM.
  15. I always install the large size round ones. Works fine.
  16. Our local driveup line shop told me they won't press pins on these Detroit type drive lines because they have seen the pins come loose. I guess the hole in the end of the drive line sometimes gets galled up when removing and replacing the pins regardless as to how they lube the pin. I too have seen them work loose and get off center.The original press fit is extremely tight. Bob
  17. In the 1955 Dodge truck parts list, it shows only the C-3 PW 1 ton power wagons. The start of the new W500 series 1-1/2 to 2 ton 4 wheel drive trucks came in 1957. Those don't use the 10 lug wheels as your truck shows. They use 5 or 6 lug wheels. Your truck looks to be a 3 tonner with a military type front axle and the factory Timkin/Rockwell rear axle. The data plate on the firewall or drivers door pillar will tell all. Shown is a 1955 DT 3 tonner data plate I parted out a few years back. Had a 331 hemi with air brakes and the same rear axle as yours.
  18. I start my 1946 and 1948 Chryslers by turning the key on then pushing the starter buttom.
  19. The drive line tube itself should not have noticeable runout.
  20. A wobbing driveline is a bad situation.
  21. A burn out in a fluid drive car? Thats amazing!
  22. Jeez, I thought when he said he had a blown engine I could sell him my schiefer flywheel aluminum flywheel for even more performance! Bob
  23. Yup might end up with a fluid drive clutch!
  24. There is an early and late Simplimatic transmission for 1942 DeSoto's. The two range transmission is the same but the automatic shifting control unit was improved and updated.The early type shifting unit used a vacuum type shift unit. The diaphram could leak and prevent upshifts. The later improved piston type shift was less prone to give trouble. Get your money out to buy a plastic hood ornament if you can find a nice one!
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