Dodgeb4ya

The old rusty looking pump is the OEM correct factory one for the 1-1/2 through 2-1/2 ton trucks- not that you have to use it. A rubber elbow hose connects that 1" nipple to the thermostat housing. If the truck had a heater package then the heater hose was connected to the lower radiator hose steel pipe insert sleeve with a steel 5/8" water elbow inserted into it. If you use the common modern replacement water pump you can screw in a 90 degree pipe fitting in the top of the new pump and it will work just fine. Also there is a factory cast aluminum 90 degree accessory heater hose fitting with a water shut off valve built in that bolts down to the top of the replacement water pump housing too. Look at google and this sites pictures of the old dodge trucks and you will see all the different heater hose combinations and how the hose connections could be made. Bob

Now on to the cam drive gear inspection!

The eights make one heck of a sucking noise with out the air cleaner on. The BIG oil bath air cleaner housing keeps the obnoxious vacuum cleaner noise down. The oil soaked fiber matting, 50W oil and shape/mass of the air cleaner housing all help to quiet a noisey chrysler eight. The sixes are not nearly as bad. The paper air filter and air cleaner design change after converting over to a paper element might cause quite a bit of sucking sound increase with your 323 ci. eight. There is nothing bad about an oil bath air cleaner other than maybe changing the oil in it every 5 years. They do work rather well.

Your straight eight might make you sorry you went to a paper air filter as you accelerate up to speed! Bob

You really should read the factory service manual for the way to service this Dodge 1 ton rear axle. It's risky to R&R the drums and hubs in the wrong manner. No drum puller is needed as this is a full floater rear end. You will need a 2-9/16" eight point socket to properly remove and install the double locking nuts that hold and adjust the wheel bearings that retain the rear drums and hubs- just like in a regular front brake drum.. You might also find you need inner and outer hub seals too to prvent oil leakage onto the brake shoes. Bob

Bob, I bet you are super excited to getting your convert back home and able to drive it again.It looks really great too! As for that hose.. well I remember those super heavy duty smooth ribbed hoses. Thats a Vulco-Flex UN315 hose that replaces all the old Mopar upper radiator hoses. You'll never blow that baby out! Tough as whale blubber. I'd maybe, or maybe not install a couple wire hose clamps and enjoy comments on that wonderful unique and long lasting upper hose! Bob

All model lines of Chrysler from 1949-53 used this same style speedo cluster with speed ranges of 110 and some models of the eight cylinder cars went to 120MPH. Different back ground colors were used depending on the year/model and if the car was a six or an eight cylinder engine. 1949 chrysler speedo's used red speedo needles, where as 1950 needles were silver ect. Bob

There are two of those engines here in seattle. I know one is a 265 2BBL. They are not for sale though!

This is a King pin cap on a Dodge.....

Well now that were talkin power window ideas... Red Green has a good one too..http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1uG6grzdUf8

Don't use a clamp. Why cave the door skin in? Open the door against a wall or something that won't move. That way you can use your body weight to help push that handle and eschutcheon on easier. Sitting in the car with the door closed cramps what you are trying to do. Sometimes on the really tough ones I do a test run with an awl to make sure I can get the pin in 2nd try.

You don't have to disassemble the FD to remove the bushings. Use the correct bushing removal tool and slide hammer or screw type puller. That is if you need to remove them. DO NOT take the FD coupling apart or pull the driven plate off. No need to. Bob

^^^^^ I agree with shel_ny. The factory Oilite input shaft bushings should never be greased! They are permanetly lubed with light weight oil from the maker. When I do FD jobs I lightly wipe the input shaft and bushings with 3-IN-One oil or the equivalent. Your bushings need to be wiped clean with a good solvent to remove all traces of the blue grease. I am not sure you can even get the pores of the bushings free of that grease. That grease looks like trailer wheel bearing or brake caliper grease. Wrong stuff to apply to input shafts. The other parts look good to me. Impression surface finsh looks fine to me. Bob

Yep Don. I use lathe bits. Also some number stamps work too. They both are pretty tuff.

I'd carefully clean up the quarter inch deep by 5/16" square recess drain plug as much as I could. Maybe use a new narrow chisel and try to sharpen the square recess up and maybe deeper if possible. Then get a piece of high strength 5/16" square stock, dip it in course valve grinding compound and pound it in the plug. Use a square drive socket on the 5/16" stock and while pushing hard on the bit turn it out-hopefully it will bite enough and come out. JB weld the leak on the housing. Clean it very well first of course. Bob

Thats the best duct repro I have ever seen! Congratulations on your awesome project and thanks for showing how you did it! Bob

The Sixes and hemi's should use the same filter and O-ring too as mentioned.

It will bolt on fine. All it can do is reduce torsional crankshaft vibration which is a good thing. Hopefully there is clearance in your frame for the larger diameter damper part. Make sure the hub does not have a wear groove in it. If it does you will need to install a speei-sleeve. Don't know what the pully pictured above is for. The damper is correct.

Here is another Factory MoPar U-joint $35.00 OBO!... http://www.ebay.com/itm/121088985921?item=121088985921&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME:X:RTQ:MOTORS:1123&vxp=mtr

The originals looked like this if anyone wants to know...

Well a bit late but today is even better! Just hard to drive and take a pic or two.... Bob

I re-use mine on my NewYokers. If you need go to an industrial O-ring supply company and have them size it correctly for fast turn around. After market oil filters seem to never have that rubber oil filter top cover O-ring for the 1949-50 Chrysler eights. O-rings can be tricky at times to get the right one as the old one might not be the same size as when it was new. You will need the oil filter housing inner diameter plus the top cover O-ring groove diameter (say 4") plus proper cross section diameter to come up with the correct O-ring. Bob .

That crank pulley is a later 1953-54 power steering narrow double groove style. It won't work with the above older style wide pulley..(used up to 1950) . Try to Find the six bolt crankshaft hub that uses the separate bolt on damper and 3/4" wide pulley. That setup will fix your alignment problems. Bob

You usually have to flip the six bolt the cover to put the fill plug in the proper front or rear easiest fill position. I Just did the this for a 31 CD8 Chrysler a few months ago. The seller won't do it for you unless they have lots of free time on their hands!

I thought I posted a picture or two of the smaller 218/230 engine manifolds and where the four 1/4" thick counter sunk brass washers and slotted cone nuts go. Even the longer 237,251 and 265 domestic engines use the same orientation as for where the bolts studs and nuts go.