Dodgeb4ya

I had a similar experience years ago also. I'd kill the bastards if I caught them stealing personal belongings. Of course the authorities cannot and will not do too much to catch these losers. There are more and more of them every day stealing as they know they will probably not get caught or do much time. I have tall fences, alarms and cameras beacuse of it. I hate the fact that it is a absolute necessity these days. I am sorry to hear of this happening to you. Violation of your space and property is something you never forget about. Bob

1941-48 Chrysler brake light switch location is up front of the car right below the battery as mentioned. To easily replace the brake light switch I use a 1" socket with a long extension and remove it. Screw the new one in slightly tight...push the brake pedal down and hold it there. Finish tightening the brake light switch. The 3-way fitting and switch are totally bled of air for the switch replacement. The only small amount of air is in the new switch. Have bled several 1942 -8 Chrysler and DeSoto cars this way over the years. I have not seen many hydraulic switch failures at all on these old Mopars although I know it is some what common. Bob

There is an early and a late M6 transmission for 1950. Early uses an external E-brake band and the late uses internal parking brake shoes-if you do decide to get another transmission. You need to know what you are doing when digging into one of these. Parts can be tough to find.

That model of compressor has a rev limiter Don.. too bad it didnt have a oil level sensor shutdown

Permatex #1 or #2 .

Tapping in all gears-high/Lo ranges? Does it do it in direct high at say 40MPH? In reverse? Ticking knocking noises usually are a chipped tooth on one gear. Oil pumps on the M6 transmissions can make a whoosing noise and it gets louder as speed increases. Bob

The intake is from 1958 4 ton Dodge truck model D-800 354 engine.

Some misc pics of my engines.....

A picture of the sisson choke tool being used to adjust the choke blade. A drill bit that fits very accurately will do the job too. The tool must go all the way down to the slot at the base of the choke unit as already mentioned.

I do not think the shaft and worm where normally serviced as separate parts (swapping worm and steering tubes) as the parts book shows the worm and tube as one part number. The worm must be put on the correct way and carefully pressed on flush to the tube end. It should press on very tightly too.

Hagen's auto parts^^^^

You really should own a factory 1949-1950 Chrysler shop manual so you can understand everything about your C48 Windsor. I keep all my M5/M6 chrysler cars stock 6 volt as they always work fine so I cannot help you about a 12V modification. Here is the proper wiring diagram for the Dodge DeSoto and Chrysler M6 wiring....... Bob

There is no separate key to insert. The worm gear has the key cast into it.... I don't think you can safely fix your worm gear and tube in a case like yours. Someone might have already pressed it together improperly. You will have to see. Be careful with repairs on worn or damaged steering worm and tube parts. Bob

I just pressed one apart a couple weeks ago and yes they are a very tight press fit. I don't know how the worm came loose from the tube although the worm and tube on the 1947 chrysler "8" steering gear was improperly pressed together from the factory! The keyway was not properly aligned when the worm and tube were pressed together.......

OMG !!!!!!......... Lucky you decided to look into your loose steering issue.

I have only seen good Turtle Locks on Ebay.

Here's a 1942 DeSoto Custom S10 steering wheel and horn ring. Also has the 5th Ave Pkg.

Rear mounts can at times be a real bear to replace as there is not enough height ..you cannot raise the engine enought to install the upper mounts. This is sometimes caused by the body dropping down because of a rusted floor pan or rotten cracked rubber body mounts. The "T" tube....is a factory welded washer to a tube that is pushed down into the upper mount and makes the rear mounts even that much harder to get them installed as the mount assembly is now even taller. I use a hydraulic jack or a porta-power to raise the rear of the bell housing till it hits the floor hump then usually the mounts will go in. If they still won't go in after a lot of pushing prying and swearing-bad news..... To get the new correct tall engine mounts installed the engine sometimes needs to be slid forward 4-6" off the rear mounts so the new ones can be dropped in! Not a quick project. Bob

I thought I saw in your profile that you had a 1950 chrysler windsor? Now it says 1951 Concord Thats why I posted that the B&T kit and tool would not work for a chrysler-I hope dementia is not settling in on me!

I hope I hope you are not looking for the pin press tool or the ball and trunnion kit for your Windsor!

The K series uses a larger rear axle and requires a bigger seal than the JA series 2 speed trucks.

Sorry---I read it as a F0-1 1/2 ton truck. Canadian code designations throw me off. USA 1/2 tons are just as you say 10" front and 11" on the rear. I suppose up north they must be the same. Bob

USA Dodge 1-1/2 ton ( F series) truck front drums are 14-1/8" inch diameter and rears are 16".

Pass on it and go find a good car needing less work. Complete Rust free cars are really good to find!

I have some straight 8 chryslers-a 1946, a 48 and three 1950's . They do not bog or die and have no tendency to do so. They love to drink gallons of gas ,smooth enough when running right to balance a nickel on the head while idleing and like 60-80 MPH on the open roads! Compression should run at least 100lbs, timing at TDC with a point gap at .016-.018". Nothing complicated about these 323ci flatheads.