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Dodgeb4ya

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Everything posted by Dodgeb4ya

  1. The rear M/cyl hole is extremely small at the bottom-maybe .015".The top portion of this hole is much wider than the bottom portion of the hole that goes all the way through into the piston bore. Use a piece iof single strand copper wire pulled out of 16ga, regular automotive copper wire. Or as mentioned a twist tie wire. Something very small and not very stiff to poke through the hole. The wire should easily poke right through down into the piston bore. Pump the pedal and recheck several times to be sure.
  2. To be honest I thought it sounded like it was running lean and not on all three carbs, especially at lower speeds and @ idle. I'm sure at higher speeds and all out it would be much better. I might be off base though! Nothin new!
  3. There are two shift rail detent springs and balls under the 3/4" hex nuts on the shifter cover. The lower 3/4" hex nut has the detent spring and ball under it that holds the shifter in 2nd or 3rd gear position. If the spring is weak or the wrong one it can pop out of 2nd gear. I think I read a MoPar bulletin about a stronger spring being issued to help fix this problem on certain cars back in the day. So you might pull the plugs and check the springs. I have seen both of them being the same and some transmissions have one strong and one weaker. The stronger one goes to the lower plug. Bob
  4. Pin type tranny's are stamped PT on the trans next to the shift cover. The manufacture date is there too.
  5. ^^^^^^ We have a winner! Don't try to remove the sceen itself.
  6. The headlight switch has a circuit breaker in it. It detected a short and most likely and was opening and closing causing the lights to go on and off. It controls both the head lights and tail lights. Now the tail lights don't work.... maybe the problem is the tail light wiring circuit.
  7. The rear sway bar has a very small amount of sideways adjustment via a stud mounted on a upper frame bracket and serrated plates. It won't be enought to correct for too wide of tires or wrong rims.
  8. All 46-8 chryslers have a rear sway bar. The eight cylinder cars are hydraulic. The sixes are a torsion kinda bar.
  9. You cannot go out and just find a drop in set of gears for the dodge 1 tons. Rear end gears and pumpkins have always been tough to find-especially a 3.9 ratio. I have always wanted a really nice 3.9 ratio for my 1 ton and heve never found one that was tight and the gears pit free...in over 35 years!!!!
  10. The 6 volt T/S flashers currently sold are All Chinese crap assembled by poor families three year old chinese children. These new ( all over Ebay and everywhere else) flashers might work properly if Tammy Faye Baker blesses you and your vehicle. They do not work correctly all the time and cause weird T/S problems. Don't buy or use them.... IMO! I posted about this a couple years ago on T/signal issues. Bob
  11. 1 Tons came with a 3.9, 4.3 and a 4,89 ratio rear axle ratio. Bob
  12. Is your rear sway bar on the car? It can be adjusteed too as I recall. Bob
  13. Whew!!!! I finally,,,, maybe helped get one issue solved! Joe and Jim I hope this is the final fix! I too have run into hanging dragging brakes on 1946-54 MoPar jobs A pain for sure. Jim, I took that picture last June and since have moved all my brake parts-not in a good way- a big jumble mess right now, so I do not have the cups quickly at hand. But it sounds like Joe does or did. I will try to dig through mine to get a measurement. ptwothree, Some of the China stuff will work. You just have to check it out carefully for fit and quality. Bob
  14. I think I would try to find better doors instead of welding up severely rusted doors.
  15. I have posted a picture of master cylinder 1-1/8" rear cup being wrong-too wide and can block the relief port. You cannot use a regular common wide wheel cylinder cup in a master cylinder as it will block the hole. A proper narrower width cup must be used as what comes in a master Cylinder Kit. NOTE: Chinese kits probably come with who knows what. Bob
  16. Was the outer speedo cable housing carefully looked at for kinks or any damage along it's length? Is it screwed tight at the speedometer and transmission ends? Sometimes the outer cable housing has a groove worn in it by the inner cable because of no lube and dirt. This requires a complete new speedo cable. Is the speedo head free and easy to spin with your fingers? A speedo shft too hard to turn will cause a bouncing needle. Lube the wick at the back of the speedo with light weight oil. You can remove the speedo cable off of the speedometer head and pull the inner cable out of the cable housing, wash it with suitable solvent blow it dry and look at it for kinks, unraveling wire strands ect..This intead of sqirting lube down the cable. Then lube it with white lithium grease, light weight machine oil, vaseline ect...take your pick. IMO liquid graphite is too thin of a lubricant for a speedo cable so I won't use it. It is sold as a speedo lubricant at NAPA or Carquest.. Re-install the inner cable free of dirt in the outer cable housing. Should work fine.
  17. The movers didn't want to deal with a fire! I would have cut them off
  18. One of my friends just talked to Frank last week and agreed on a parts trade. OH OH! I purchased a NOS M5/6 input shaft from him 4 months ago for a customer job and when I got it it was rusty and not usable. I called him and he sent another NOS as pictured in his Ebay ad. I felt at that time something was wrong with him. He sounded different. Frank knew his MoPar parts and got top $ for them. He was one of the top dogs on NOS quality MoPar parts! Will miss him. Another one down.
  19. I have seen many times the M/cyl rubber cup and piston do not return -move all the way back against the M/cly stop plate behind the rubber push rod boot. You think you adjusted the push rod right and it seems ok then later the brakes are dragging again. I looked into this issue by testing for complete piston return with out the push rod boot installed so I could watch the piston movement. Sometimes it would sometimes not completely come back against the stop. The master cylinder bore micro finish, M/cyl pston return spring strength and rubber cup type design ect affect quick and complete piston and cup return to the stop plate at the end of the master cylinder. Also the pedal return spring must be installed to keep the brake pedal pulled back against the adjustable stop bolt. None of this applies to non stock brake parts. Bob
  20. ^^^^^Been mentioned here many times-it works. Pack the hole as tight and air pocket free with grease as you can. Use a very precise fitting rod or dowel and have at it.
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