Dodgeb4ya

Cool nice and sunny here in the great northwest. Going to drive my woodie today. and did....

I think- not positive thats Dave... AKA "countrytravler" on the AACA forum. He's helping out the widow with the stuff.

X2.

I just sold an Ellis intake for the "BIG" Moly Block 281-331 ci. six cylinder DT engines last month. They are a really nice manifold. Bob

The fan pulley looks big like for a 1953 or 54 Plymouth Dodge engine.

R&R'ing a flathead valve guide is not a simple task for a DIY'er. Valve guides are driven down with a quality guide driver of the correct size and then broken off in pieces before it will hit the tappet. I'd be careful as to how much work you do on this engine before you even get it running. The insides did not look too good. Bob

I see you have asked all the same questions about your car on several online sites. Which one seems to be the most friendly and helpful?

I would have a high quality truck cover with a flannel lining made for the truck to keep it nice and cozy for the long cold winter.

I vote ...RAT ROD it!!! It'd be awesome. Triple turbo MR2 engine... mid center. It'll haul ass.

Halloween was a couple days ago !!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uyZtGTHlH34

DOT 5 or silicone brake fluid is usually dark amber or purple color as manufactured. DOT 3 or 4 Glycol brake fluid is nearly clear when new. DOT 3 or 4 will also turn dark as it absorbs moisture and needs replacing. DOT 4 has a roughly 40 degree higher boiling point and is 100% interchangable with DOT 3. If you contaminate and intermix DOT 3 or 4 Glycol brake fluid with DOT 5 silicone in any amounts the brake system should be completely and thoroughly flushed or best taken apart and the rubber parts replaced with new. I run into Hmmm....what type of brake fluid is in a old car brake system in my work. I take a small sample from the car and drop it into a clear jar with new DOT 3 or 4. If it sits as a ball or jelly bean in the bottom of the DOT 3 or 4, it's DOT 5 silicone. Be sure of what fluid type is in your old cars brake system if you are not sure. Most old cars still have regular glycol DOT3 in them.

A customer gave me this old military low voltage tester for starting and charging systems. Kinda a primitive automotive test tool set now days but cool none the less. It works too.

John Nidas interior work sure looks nice! Lotsa nice custom stitchen work!

Some pics of factory installed washer buttons on a couple of my cars and electric gas cap button......

Electric gas cap has a 1/4" black push button as I recall.

That button should have two 1/4" vacuum hoses connected to it and will lead to the engine compartment to the engine and washer bottle.The washer bottle- probably an anco is vacuum operated.

You are a pro-I see ya got your trap wired so the animals won't haul it and the catch away

I would not attempt to adjust the valves before making sure they are all free and you have run and completely warmed up the engine. You said it ran very well up to this issue so I doubt the adjustment changed much. After it's running though I too would re check them. HOT!

Factory drain hole. Was shaped kinda like an eye originally.

You weren't running old gas?

I'd try the other solenoid you have.

For speed and simplicity I have always chained the spring for safety,then just pulled the lower outer pin and slowly dropped the A-arm. Fast safe. Jack the car up high enough and set on a jack stand under the frame behind the wheel you are working on. Roll the floor jack under the A-arm seat-remove the lower pivot bolt and drop the A-arm.

You need to have part numbers to have a chance finding parts that old.