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Dodgeb4ya last won the day on July 14

Dodgeb4ya had the most liked content!

About Dodgeb4ya

  • Rank
    Zen Master, I breathe vintage mopar!
  • Birthday 08/11/1952

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Woodieville, Wash
  • Interests
    Restoring cars, trucks, heavy equipment, welding ,fabrication of many things, helping people on projects and more!
  • My Project Cars
    1946 NewYorker Straight "8" 3 Passenger Cpe. / 1952 Imperial 3 Passenger 331 Hemi Cpe

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    Been into the Flathead Mopars since 1968.Have 15 Mopars up to 1953.
  • Occupation
    To keep all of the above running!


  • Location
    Woodieville Wa. Part of the Great Northwest!
  • Interests
    Old Mopar-Cars,Trucks and old AC and Massey equipment.

Recent Profile Visitors

5,840 profile views
  1. I'd bet the inner fender panels are still stuck to the cowl because of the anti-sqeak....work the sheet metal loose from the cowl with a putty knife or what works. Lift the front of the nose up and down to loosen it....once loose raise the core support free of the frame then pull the whole nose forward and off. It's heavy too.
  2. Should be mounted on the firewall drivers side.
  3. Yes sometimes very dense hard back up blocking and a heavier hammer are required ...it's a thing you pick up on quick growing up in the field.... get er done type of thing in a shop. But with no damage!
  4. Put the nut back on the upper end of the worm tube..and with a block of wood at that nut use a hammer and tap the worm and lower bearing race out of the steering gear box. That lower bearing race is a semi tight fit in the steering box case. Worm and tube can then be fully removed.
  5. I'm done trying to save all those trucks that should be saved. I cannot do it anymore....too many out there. I'm a Rob or Robert too.... not a Bob!
  6. Flywheel needs to be out to really see what you are doing....even better engine on stand. The modern "Best" brand replacement rubber and steel plate seals just bolt on the block and cap....but if the crank wear surface has even minor wear or pitting I'd use only the factory graphite type rope packing as it is more forgiving and seals better if the seal surface is slightly damaged. The some what delicate rubber lips seals require a 100% pit free and no wear crank seal surface to seal and last with no leakage. 🙂
  7. That looks to be the typical old 30's to early 40's rope type seal clamped to the rear of the block and main cap with the two retainer plates.... same as used in the big moly block Dodge engines up into the mid fifties.. That two piece rope seal must be carefully packed tight into those two plates and formed tight to the crankshaft surface then left protruding just a bit higher than the retainer plates at each side for rope seal crush to prevent leaks.....maybe .030"..... cut exactly straight with no loose fibers sticking out. Also used are the two rubber cap gaskets of two possible styles....
  8. 2 speeds were only in 1-1/2 ton and up... 1/2 thru 1 tons never.
  9. Old Fords used the "Widow Maker" wheels...Dodge used the safer, easier to service "Split Side Ring" wheels... Pics...
  10. Snap on calls that style of plier an "Adjustable Wrench Plier" one of my tools that does more than expected. It will grab anything and not let go...amazing quality and grip.
  11. Easy direct swap...except industrial manifolds, carb, dist and pulleys etc. Swap them off your old 251.
  12. Why not get used glass? Doubt you will find any new.
  13. You don't want any wires left anywhere "in" an engine!
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