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blucarsdn

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blucarsdn last won the day on August 25

blucarsdn had the most liked content!

About blucarsdn

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Ventura, CA
  • My Project Cars
    39 Plymouth P8 conv cpe
    36 Ford Deluxe 5 win cpe
    49 Olds 88 2dr club sdn

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  • Location
    Ventura, CA
  • Interests
    Antique cars, out door activities, travel

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    retired

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  1. blucarsdn

    seals for the headlight lenses?

    The original gaskets for the reflector type of headlights was generally cork. Steve's Restoration in Portland OR stocks cork in various thickness's and lengths. I ordered some 1/4 x 1/4 for my '39 Plym from Steve's a couple days ago. $7.50 per pair. Wm.
  2. As a general rule tail-light housing do not have reflectors in them, it is very common for them to be painted white inside of the housing. Surprisingly white paint is classified as being the most reflective, where-as silver is not. I don't believe I have ever seen a reflector housing in a tail light assembly.
  3. blucarsdn

    37 Plymouth Sedan Resto- New Member

    I have a 2002 GM 5.7 330 HP V8 in my '39 Plym. It is a GM crate motor, brand new from the dealer. I had read several articles in Street Rodder, etc., about the advantages of using FI, I picked up a complete GM F.I. system to use on the engine. My plan was to use a 7004R trans behind the engine because they do not need a computer. Since my '39 is a convertible coupe it has a double frame, no hump in the floor. The more I thought about the F.I. the more I thought, that less is more, I sold the F.I. system, bought an Edlebrock 4 brl Performer manifold and carb. I bought a new GM electronic ignition and never looked back. My '64 C10 with the '98 5.7 Vortec, 4L60 trans, has been a whole different story. When it runs well it is a pleasure to drive, however, the so called guru's on late model engine conversions don't seem to know quite as much as they think they do. One thing we have found is that GM electronics only like GM components, when you start trying to mix modules, sensors, etc., from the parts stores with GM, you are looking for trouble. If you are the kind of guy that likes to tinker with things, then having an EMF (every minute fixum) might be to your liking.
  4. blucarsdn

    37 Plymouth Sedan Resto- New Member

    Having been there done that I would caution you to go back to the vehicle that you harvested the engine from, see if you can harvest the fuel lines going from the engine to the fuel tank, you will also need the fuel tank filler neck that will accommodate the stock screw in cap. We used a fuel tank from Tanks that would accommodate an electric pump for fuel delivery and vapor return. We did not use a stock file tube the first go around.. The truck would run well then stumble and die.. Finally figured out it was the fuel cap holding pressure, releasing the cap released the vacuum in the tank. I would also suggest that you talk to Painless about their wiring harness.
  5. blucarsdn

    37 Plymouth Sedan Resto- New Member

    Additional pix of the engine compatment
  6. blucarsdn

    37 Plymouth Sedan Resto- New Member

    I recently thought I would be very cleaver with the rebuild of a GM C10 Rail Road truck. The C10 RR trucks are very rare, they are an extended cab, with a back seat, the rear portion of the cab is very similar to a suburban with no back doors/tail-gate, a big window rear panel is used in lieu of the normal bard doors, etc. We discarded the '64 chassis, opting for a '98 C10 chassis with 5.7 V8, 4L60 AOD trans and the '98 differential. We used a Painless wiring harness to manage the power-train with the stock GM ECM that was re-flashed to eliminate all of the removed systems. Anti theft, navigation, etc. We eliminated the stock GM air box in favor of a KN filter-intake... The truck is a pleasure to drive with it's bucket seats, AC,PW, tilt, etc., still have paint work to do on the body. The truck is a real attention getter, mainly because they are so few and far between.
  7. blucarsdn

    37 Plymouth Sedan Resto- New Member

    Putting a GM Ls engine and trans combo into a '37 Plym will be a very big job, limited engine compartment space for all of the electronics, etc. A friend of mine that is a professional builder has installed several Ls engines/trans combo's into many vehicles, the last being a '48 Chevy pickup. All of the Ls installations have been a real challenge trying to figure out where to hide the coils, air boxes, etc.. The pre '52 frames/engine compartments are not wide enough to accommodate ECM's, exhaust, etc.
  8. blucarsdn

    37 Plymouth Sedan Resto- New Member

    cturbo---- Your '37 Plym project popped into mind yesterday, I thought I would share some of my thoughts with you. As I recall from your original post to your topic, you were thinking of rebuilding the '37 into a family type of car that your wife could safely drive, however, you thought you would modernize the Plymouth, V8, disk, etc. Thinking 'out of the box' I would suggest that you give some consideration to the power-train from a late model Jeep Cherokee, '91 or later with the 4.0 L six ,AOD trans/differential. I have had two Cherokee's, a '91 and currently a '98.. Yes the 4.0 inline is/was an AMC engine, however, Chrysler bought AMC in 1990. The engine is a straight forward FE six that is famous for being bullet proof rocket ships. The engine in my '98 has 153K, runs like a clock, my daughter has the same car with 300K on it. I have only done minor maintenance items on my Jeep, the same is true of my daughters Jeep. The Cherokee's are the same wheel base as the Plym, however, they are basically uni-body so you would have to work with modifications to your chassis. The 4x Cherokee's are very popular with the off-road types, but the 2x's are not and can be picked up for under 3k... Of course in your area most of them would be rust buckets, but that don't effect the power-train.. Don't get tangled up with trying to utilize the Cherokee accessories, AC/heat, instruments, tilt and steering, etc., use after market stuff.
  9. blucarsdn

    37 Plymouth Sedan Resto- New Member

    If it is your intent to put your wife and family into the Plym then you need the best equipment possible. Old School junk yard parts don't get it anymore when it comes to today's traffic. I have a Fatman Stage II front clip under my '39 Plym with 11" disk brakes and a power rack. I have the same setup under my '49 Olds. I like Fat Man because their components are engineered to fit the vehicles they are going into. My engine is a small block V8, AODAT, PS, AC PB, rear end is 324,1 with Posie springs. FatMan front ends are not "Mustang II" they are based on the Mustang geometry which allows for the disk brakes and minimizes rear end lift under heavy braking. The Posie rear springs also complete the package. You will have to make special rear shackles, "C" shaped in lieu of the stock U type. There are several very good small block Chrysler V8's, 318, 340 and 360. Most Mopar people can only relate to Hemi's, yuck. Feel free to PM me if you want more info.. I have attached a pix of my car for your info.
  10. blucarsdn

    Oil Additive To Fix Leaky Rear Seal

    As a general rule, "mechanic in a can" does nothing but flatten your wallet. Pull the pan and put a new main seal in it.. Wm.
  11. blucarsdn

    39 Side Mirrors?

    Lloyd, Looks like you figured out how to modify the VW/Plym hinge pins to mount the VW mirrors on your '39. I found the location of the mirrors, sitting above the mounting pins to be a little un-sightly looking, I like modifications to look as close to stock as possible, the terminology is usually "eye sweet". Wm.
  12. blucarsdn

    39 Side Mirrors?

    I did a little research on the door hinge pin problem. I found that the hinges on my '36 Ford are 2-1/16", where-as the hinges on my '39 Plym are 2-1/2". As Lloyd has pointed out the VW pin is thicker than the Plym pin. It would appear that I reamed the Ford hinge out to fit the VW pin, which would be a lot easier than trying to cut/weld the two pins together. One thing to keep in mind is the existing holes are probably a little over-size from years of use, which reaming out would correct. The shortness of the pin might require the welding on of an extention piece.
  13. blucarsdn

    ? about wheel trim rings.

    Accessories like wheel trim rings don't know if they are Ford, GM or DCPD, a 16" wheel is just that. There are some anomaly's in how many ribs the rings has, Ford used a five rib ring in 41 through about '48. The one thing that you have to watch out for is the width, a standard ring is usually 1-1/4" wide which will fit just about any 4.0 to 5-6" wheel, when the wheels get over 6.5" the trim ring can be as wide as 1-3/8" wide.
  14. blucarsdn

    51 Plymouth, Mustang II Kit, Custom Stub?

    I did a lot of research on possible upgrades to the suspension on my '39 Plym conv cpe before I took anything off of the body/chassis . I talked to a lot of the specialty manufactures and found out that Fat Man was the only company that made front end components that were designed and built specifically for Plymouth's, and other makes. I quickly got turned off of any fabricator that wanted to build his own front end using parts harvested from other cars. I selected a shop that was licensed and insured to do the modifications to the chassis on my car. We purchased a Fat Man Stage II front clip with power rack and a anti roll bar. (sway bar). The assembly fit my frame like it was factory. As a point of clarification: The after market frame assemblies are not Mustang II, they are based on the geometry of the original Mustang II front ends which were designed for disk brakes, and to eliminate front end dive under sudden braking which causes the rear end to come loose from the road. I talked at great length to Brett at Fat Man about suspensions, etc., before I bought anything. Brett was very enlightening. My '39 Plym looks dead stock, however, it is a "wolf in sheeps clothing". It really runs and handles very well. On two different occasions I have had to do panic stops due to traffic conditions, on both occasions the car stopped in a straight line with no loss of control. Wm.
  15. blucarsdn

    Duel carb intake

    Douglas, I called a friend of mine in Idaho that has a lot of old speed equipment. Ted told me he has a dual carb manifold for a 25" Chrysler engine. It does not have a heat riser so it would be cold hearted in the winter months. Ted will have to dig it out of the basement parts room, then he will get back to me. Wm
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