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blucarsdn last won the day on August 25 2018

blucarsdn had the most liked content!

About blucarsdn

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    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Ventura, CA
  • My Project Cars
    39 Plymouth P8 conv cpe
    36 Ford Deluxe 5 win cpe
    49 Olds 88 2dr club sdn


  • Location
    Ventura, CA
  • Interests
    Antique cars, out door activities, travel

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  1. I have attached a couple of pix of what the tail section of a '37-39 plym should look like. I should point out that the only lead used to repair the body was in the factory seams, there is no Bondo on the entire body.
  2. Reviewing the rear pix of your '37 sedan, I noted that the bumper bracket hole in the right fender is much different, it is very square and larger, the factory hole is quite oval. I would assume that the right fender has undergone extensive repair work. One of the rear fenders on my conv cpe is from a 4 dr sdn, one is from a 2 dr sdn. both front fenders and the grille shell are from a car of unknown origin. My car sat in an open field in Montana for thirty-eight years, and had been customized prior to arriving in Montana from California. According to the published history of the '37-39 Plym's the bodies are basically the same, regardless of the body style. The Chrysler Parts Book dated Feb 20 1939 only lists one set of fenders, front and rear. The big difference in the '39's is the V windshield which makes the body look longer and appears to make the passenger area look larger. A very cleaver re-design that allowed Chrysler to re-use the basic '37-38 body for another year. Ford and GM did not figure this out until the '41-48 models. Walter P. and his team of engineers were pretty cleaver guys...
  3. All of the fenders, front and rear are the same on the '39's, as is the running boards. The larger '39 tail lights, set flush into the fenders might make the fender look different. Of course the front fenders of the '39's are completely different due to the inset square head lights.
  4. I have a pair of '39 Plym rear fenders... They have some issues but are very solid fenders.. For your info, '37-38-39 Plyms all use the same rear fenders.
  5. The pix that Coatney attached is very good, shows that the exhaust manifold is still bolted to the intake. Not a good idea to eliminate the heat-riser, I know many people do that, but it is not a good thing.
  6. I ran P205/75R14 on my '56 & '57 T-Birds for twenty-five years on the stock wheels with no issues. I run 15" radials on my '39 P8. Inflation in the one issue you have to watch, radials are high pressure tires. 32-34 lbs minimum.
  7. The heat riser in an inline engine is probably one of the most misunderstood items in an engine. In colder climates like Sweden, and those parts of other countries that have mild to cold temps, the carb hanging on the side of the engine requires that the fuel be pre-heated for proper vaporization. Correctly fixing a faulty hear riser is not an easy matter, in all probability you will have to find a exhaust manifold that has a working heat riser. Blocking the heat riser into the closed position is not a good solution, the plate has to open under accelleration. Blocking plate into the open position would be better, however the engine will run rich in cool/cold weather. People that put headers and/or split manifolds on inline engines experience a lot of problems with the engine running rich because they eliminate the heat riser. The general solution to this problem is to put a hot water fixture on the base of the intake manifold. I have encountered a lot of problems in my life with hear riser issues, I was raised in East Idaho where the temps get down to -30 in the winter. As a teenager i constantly messed with cars trying to make them run better, which usually resulted in huge problems in the winter. When I moved to southern Nevada in 1954 subzero temps were not a problem, 100 + degrees were. I moved to southern California in 1956 which changed the whole climate issue. Quite cool on the coast, 100 + degrees ten miles inland.
  8. I'm not to sure if Painless has wiring looms for the late model Mopar ECM applications. I put a '98 GM 5.7 V8 with a 4L60 AOD into a '64 C-10. We used a Painless wiring harness for the engine/trans using the stock GM ECM.. Had to have the ECM "flashed" to eliminate the codes we did not need and to match the gearing ratio/tire size to the ECM.. Worked good.
  9. Reviewing you May 25 posting to this thread I noted that your rear shackles are not in a "C" shape like mine. I would also be suspect in the quality of the springs you used, compared to the Posie springs I used. If you review my original posting to this thread on 10-24-18, you will note that my rear shackles are "C" shaped which places the spring close to it's original position, just barely clearing the frame crossmember.
  10. A very common trend is developing where-in people are using complete late model chassis' under their older bodied vehicles. A friend of mine has done a couple of mid '60's F100 with Ford Crown Vicy chassis'. I have a very rare '64 C10 Rail Road trk, a club cab 2 dr with a back seat. We put the complete chassis, power-train, from a '98 C-10 under the truck. Worked great, the truck is a pleasure to drive and a real head turner. Used Vintage Aire in the truck in lieu of the GM unit.. We had to salvage the front portion of the floor pan to accommodate the 4L60 trans and lower section of the firewall from the 98 C-10 to accommodate the peddle assembly/steering column.
  11. I have a GM 10 bolt from an early Camario , 54-1/4" wide backing plate to backing plate, which is the same width as the original rear end. I used Posie springs which we had to fabricate custom C shaped shackles for.. The setup worked perfectly.
  12. A modern type of pressure cap on the radiator with about 6 lb. pressure and a coolant recovery tank allows the system to purge air from the cooling system which prevents cavitation/air intrainment in the cooling system. I don't buy ready made coolant recovery tanks. I make them out of a piece of 2" ABS (black plastic) pipe, two caps one of which is glued to the bottom and a couple of barbed brass fitting. One barbed brass fitting is threaded into the bottom cap, the other is threaded into the top cap. Clear plastic tubing is attached to the radiator overflow, then to the bottom of the tube cap, a second piece of plastic tubing is attached to the upper cap and extended to a point under the car. Attach the overflow tank to the core support using zip ties, etc. An 18/20" piece of 2" ABS pipe will hold all the fluid that the average cooling can expell, allowing it to return to the engine once the system cools down. To check the coolant level, check the coolant level in the clear tubing running from the radiator. Add coolant to the tank simply remove the top cap and add enough coolant to half fill the tank. When the engine does a heat/cool cycle the system will draw down the fluid to stablize the level. Of course you can go to your local Hot Rod shop and purchase a fancy S/S recovery tank for about $60. Mine will cost about $20. and does not stick out like a sore thumb. The Rat Rodder types just use a one liter plastic bottle, etc., hung off of a fender brace.
  13. The purpose of a thermostat is to maintain a constant temp, generally 180 degrees, in an engine. Without a thermostat the engine temp is constantly cycling, hot on the pull and cold on the down hill. An engine that operates below it's designed range will have a shortened life from sludge buildup in the oil and condensation within the block. A side benefit of a thermostat is faster warm up of the engine on a cold winter day, which makes the engine run better and constant heat for the heater. The comment about large washers in the upper hose is one of those myths that was started over 60 years ago in a hot rod article written by Vic Edlebrok that pertained to race engines he built.
  14. From my experience spaces on the front spring (s) are only used to correct weak springs and/or a heavy load on one side.. ie: an extremely heavy driver and/or passenger..
  15. To reply to the original question regarding a split manifold.. Generally speaking a split manifold will do nothing but cost money, make noise and reduce the efficiency of the engine, especially if the heat riser is removed. I ran a muffler/performance shop in the early '50's, we did a lot of split manifolds because inline engines were the norm. In order to improve the performance of the average engine, it requires a lot of modifications to the engine which cost a lot of money, and in all probability will shorten the life of the engine. There use to be a old saying, how fast you want to go depends on how deep your pockets are.
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