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blucarsdn

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blucarsdn last won the day on August 25 2018

blucarsdn had the most liked content!

About blucarsdn

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Ventura, CA
  • My Project Cars
    39 Plymouth P8 conv cpe
    36 Ford Deluxe 5 win cpe
    49 Olds 88 2dr club sdn

Converted

  • Location
    Ventura, CA
  • Interests
    Antique cars, out door activities, travel

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  • Occupation
    retired

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  1. I looked high and low for almost 15 years for visor brackets for my '39 Plym cnv cpe. Scouting around in an old truck wrecking yard I came upon a '48 Dodge Pilot House truck, looking inside of the cab I almost wet my pants, the sun visors were still attached to the header and the chrome was near purfect. I noted that the bracket did not have the drop loop, however, the bracket was the same as the convertibles. I had a couple of pairs of the '37-39 visors so I harvested the hard-board visor from the bracket, which was very similar to the truck. I cut the visor down to 4-3/8" x 14-1/8". After the visors were covered with leather to match my interior I had a pair of visors that were a perfect fit for my car. I have built three other sets of visors for the '39-40 Plyms for people that I know have convs. In many cases the visors I built needed new hard board, I purchased Masonite Hard-board, used a heat gun to heat up the original heavy wire staples, which eliminated the possibility of the staples breaking. Attaching the hard-board to the mounting shaft was quite simple.
  2. The visor bracket you are looking for is the same as the visor brackets for the '37-41 DPCD open cars, station wagons and '48 and later Dodge pickups. The 48 pickups are chrome/nickle plated where-as the later models are painted a taupe color. My '39 Plym conv has similar visor brackets as what you are looking for. I have a spare set.
  3. I have a 4 row aluminum radiator in my '39 with a 195 thermostat and an electric fan mounted inside of a custom made fan shroud. the fan is wired direct, therefore it runs all the time when the ignition switch is on. I also have a coolant recovery tank on the overflow to capture any fluid that might over flow and spill out. The overflow tank insures that the cooling system does not contain air and remains full. My '39 is air conditioned. My car never over-heats, in traffic, etc.
  4. My 39 is a very strange, "Twilight Zone": It was built in the Long Beach CA Chys. plant on January 29, 1939. Was shipped to a dealer in San Francisco on Jan 30. The car spent some time in the Bay Area where it was customized, chrome etc., removed and filled, running boards removed, lic plate Frenched into the rear deck. '49 Plym bumpers were installed. The interior was mostly not touched, just minor repairs to the leather. The car was painted yellow over the original black. The car showed up in Denton, MT in 1951, that's when the man that I got it from purchased it in trade for a motor cycle. I'm not to sure who got the best deal, a convertible and/or a motor cycle in Central Montana would not be a good form of transportation. Sometime in '52 the engine was removed from the car to re-power a grain combine, the car never moved again until I found the car in the early spring of '96. I brought the '39 home to California in the fall of '96. I joined the POC in the fall of '96, and when I did I found out that at that point in time there were 31 P8 RS conv cpes known to exist in the world. There are now 81 at last count. I know where there are seven or eight scattered around the US and Australia.. The 39 Ply was the most challenging vehicle I ever restored. I tried my best to use original DPCD parts when I could find them, it took me ten years to find the rear quarter panel trim.
  5. John, You have a good memory. I have a very extensive thread on the POC Forum about my '39 Plym conv cpe. The tread is one of the most read topics on the POC Forum. I have attached a couple of pix or my car as found sitting in a field in Central Montana, where it had sat for '38 years. It took me sixteen years and $75.k to restore the car, which from my point of view was a bargain when you consider how rare P8 RS conv spe's are.
  6. Responding to the earlier question regarding the square vs round headlights. All '39 Plyms originally had the square headlights. In '40 all vehicles went to sealed beams by Federal law, many people quickly availed themselves of the many conversion that were offered because the reflector type lights require a lot of maintenance, and at their best they leave much to be desired. My '39 had "Arrow", round sealed beam conversions.. Made the lights look very bug eyed due to the large bezels required to cover the square holes in the fenders. I went crazy looking for originale's head lights, gathered up a whole punch of parts only to find out that most of it was of no use to me because the head light assemblies left and right, early and late. One screw in the bezels vs two. Finally found a complete set on eBay, most likely had been removed when the car was near new in favor of a sealed beam conversion. The eBay headlights cost me several hundred dollars and were worth every penny. The '39 Plyms did not have an OD option, Chrysler and DeSoto had OD's. I have two friend that have OD's in their '39 Plym P8 conv cpes, both units are from DeSoto's.. The OD makes the '39's into a nice hiway cars because they overcome the very low rear gear ratio.
  7. I have attached a couple of pix of what the tail section of a '37-39 plym should look like. I should point out that the only lead used to repair the body was in the factory seams, there is no Bondo on the entire body.
  8. Reviewing the rear pix of your '37 sedan, I noted that the bumper bracket hole in the right fender is much different, it is very square and larger, the factory hole is quite oval. I would assume that the right fender has undergone extensive repair work. One of the rear fenders on my conv cpe is from a 4 dr sdn, one is from a 2 dr sdn. both front fenders and the grille shell are from a car of unknown origin. My car sat in an open field in Montana for thirty-eight years, and had been customized prior to arriving in Montana from California. According to the published history of the '37-39 Plym's the bodies are basically the same, regardless of the body style. The Chrysler Parts Book dated Feb 20 1939 only lists one set of fenders, front and rear. The big difference in the '39's is the V windshield which makes the body look longer and appears to make the passenger area look larger. A very cleaver re-design that allowed Chrysler to re-use the basic '37-38 body for another year. Ford and GM did not figure this out until the '41-48 models. Walter P. and his team of engineers were pretty cleaver guys...
  9. All of the fenders, front and rear are the same on the '39's, as is the running boards. The larger '39 tail lights, set flush into the fenders might make the fender look different. Of course the front fenders of the '39's are completely different due to the inset square head lights.
  10. I have a pair of '39 Plym rear fenders... They have some issues but are very solid fenders.. For your info, '37-38-39 Plyms all use the same rear fenders.
  11. The pix that Coatney attached is very good, shows that the exhaust manifold is still bolted to the intake. Not a good idea to eliminate the heat-riser, I know many people do that, but it is not a good thing.
  12. I ran P205/75R14 on my '56 & '57 T-Birds for twenty-five years on the stock wheels with no issues. I run 15" radials on my '39 P8. Inflation in the one issue you have to watch, radials are high pressure tires. 32-34 lbs minimum.
  13. The heat riser in an inline engine is probably one of the most misunderstood items in an engine. In colder climates like Sweden, and those parts of other countries that have mild to cold temps, the carb hanging on the side of the engine requires that the fuel be pre-heated for proper vaporization. Correctly fixing a faulty hear riser is not an easy matter, in all probability you will have to find a exhaust manifold that has a working heat riser. Blocking the heat riser into the closed position is not a good solution, the plate has to open under accelleration. Blocking plate into the open position would be better, however the engine will run rich in cool/cold weather. People that put headers and/or split manifolds on inline engines experience a lot of problems with the engine running rich because they eliminate the heat riser. The general solution to this problem is to put a hot water fixture on the base of the intake manifold. I have encountered a lot of problems in my life with hear riser issues, I was raised in East Idaho where the temps get down to -30 in the winter. As a teenager i constantly messed with cars trying to make them run better, which usually resulted in huge problems in the winter. When I moved to southern Nevada in 1954 subzero temps were not a problem, 100 + degrees were. I moved to southern California in 1956 which changed the whole climate issue. Quite cool on the coast, 100 + degrees ten miles inland.
  14. I'm not to sure if Painless has wiring looms for the late model Mopar ECM applications. I put a '98 GM 5.7 V8 with a 4L60 AOD into a '64 C-10. We used a Painless wiring harness for the engine/trans using the stock GM ECM.. Had to have the ECM "flashed" to eliminate the codes we did not need and to match the gearing ratio/tire size to the ECM.. Worked good.
  15. Reviewing you May 25 posting to this thread I noted that your rear shackles are not in a "C" shape like mine. I would also be suspect in the quality of the springs you used, compared to the Posie springs I used. If you review my original posting to this thread on 10-24-18, you will note that my rear shackles are "C" shaped which places the spring close to it's original position, just barely clearing the frame crossmember.
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