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blucarsdn

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  • Content count

    259
  • Joined

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About blucarsdn

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Ventura, CA
  • My Project Cars
    39 Plymouth P8 conv cpe
    36 Ford Deluxe 5 win cpe
    49 Olds 88 2dr club sdn

Converted

  • Location
    Ventura, CA
  • Interests
    Antique cars, out door activities, travel

Contact Methods

  • Occupation
    retired
  1. ? about wheel trim rings.

    Accessories like wheel trim rings don't know if they are Ford, GM or DCPD, a 16" wheel is just that. There are some anomaly's in how many ribs the rings has, Ford used a five rib ring in 41 through about '48. The one thing that you have to watch out for is the width, a standard ring is usually 1-1/4" wide which will fit just about any 4.0 to 5-6" wheel, when the wheels get over 6.5" the trim ring can be as wide as 1-3/8" wide.
  2. 51 Plymouth, Mustang II Kit, Custom Stub?

    I did a lot of research on possible upgrades to the suspension on my '39 Plym conv cpe before I took anything off of the body/chassis . I talked to a lot of the specialty manufactures and found out that Fat Man was the only company that made front end components that were designed and built specifically for Plymouth's, and other makes. I quickly got turned off of any fabricator that wanted to build his own front end using parts harvested from other cars. I selected a shop that was licensed and insured to do the modifications to the chassis on my car. We purchased a Fat Man Stage II front clip with power rack and a anti roll bar. (sway bar). The assembly fit my frame like it was factory. As a point of clarification: The after market frame assemblies are not Mustang II, they are based on the geometry of the original Mustang II front ends which were designed for disk brakes, and to eliminate front end dive under sudden braking which causes the rear end to come loose from the road. I talked at great length to Brett at Fat Man about suspensions, etc., before I bought anything. Brett was very enlightening. My '39 Plym looks dead stock, however, it is a "wolf in sheeps clothing". It really runs and handles very well. On two different occasions I have had to do panic stops due to traffic conditions, on both occasions the car stopped in a straight line with no loss of control. Wm.
  3. Duel carb intake

    Douglas, I called a friend of mine in Idaho that has a lot of old speed equipment. Ted told me he has a dual carb manifold for a 25" Chrysler engine. It does not have a heat riser so it would be cold hearted in the winter months. Ted will have to dig it out of the basement parts room, then he will get back to me. Wm
  4. Moore's Auto Salvage

    I believe in the old saying, "if you can't say something nice about someone, say nothing".. Several years ago I went into a business that I had dealt with for many years. The lady at the counter must of been having a bad day, my conversation with her started out very bad and very quickly went all astray. I excused my self and exited the business saying not another word. I went outside and sat in my car for a few minutes, then I walked back into the business, the lady was still standing behind the counter, walking up to her I said, "my name is Bill, I would like to inquire about some closet doors". The lady looked at me like I was a nut case, then she started to laugh.. She got the drift of what I had done, defusing a bad situation. We continued to conduct our business and I left, pleased that all had went well.. I had a very nice phone conversation with Russ, the owner of Moores on Dec. 11.. As always Russ was very friendly and informative. Russ did tell me that their web site was very out of date and that they were in the process of having a new one built. Russ asked me for a pix of my '39 Plymouth Conv Cpe, which I would not have been able to restore without "Moores" help, Russ would like to include a pix of my '39 in their new web page. Wm.
  5. Moore's Auto Salvage

    I called Moores Auto Salvage in Rapid City this morning.. Talked to Russ, they are alive and well. Russ did say that they have been having some problems filling orders in a timely manner. Russ told me they are working very hard to try and resolve the time lag in getting parts pulled, packaged and shipped. Wm
  6. Moore's Auto Salvage

    I just Googled Moores Auto Salvage in Rapid City, they are listed as www.mooresautosalvage.com I did not try to phone them because of the time difference and it is Saturday.. Wm
  7. Moore's Auto Salvage

    In 1996 up through 2007 I purchased a ton or more of parts from Russ at Moores in Rapid City. In 2007 I purchased a '49 Olds 88 2dr from them. In the late fall of 2007 Russ let me park my large RV within their facility, locking us in for the night, it was like spending the night in a candy store. When morning came I had a large pile of Mopar and Olds parts stacked up next to my RV, I asked Russ how much I owned him, paid the price, loaded up and headed for Montana. I think it has been over a year since I have tried to contact Moores for parts. I do know that they got rid of all of their GM cars and parts, they traded them to a guy for all of his Mopar stuff. I also know that the majority of the '30/40 DCPD parts they had were getting pretty thin, having been picked through many times. Wm
  8. Dual exhaust set up/ route

    Many years ago, like sixty plus, I ran a custom exhaust shop in Eastern Idaho, inline engines were more common than V8's so the majority of our business was splitting manifolds. I have built split manifolds for just about every make and model of engine there every was. The fact of the matter is that a split manifold on an inline engine does nothing for an engine except create noise, which leads one to believe that the engine is making more power. We built our own split manifolds, and as a general rule did not remove the heat riser. We would insert a plate through the heat riser and tack weld it in place, then cut a whole in the side we had blocked off to attach a flange affair for the new pipe to attach to. As a general rule we would use mufflers on both pipes to minimize the "rap/cackle" that inline engines can produce. Headers were not very popular on inline engines because they very expensive and they did not work well in cold weather due to the lack of a heat riser.
  9. 39 Side Mirrors?

    From my experience working on GM/Ford & DCPD vehicles for the past thirty plus years, I have found that the majority of the door hinge pins are basically the same, 1/4" with the upper portion being a splined affair in the upper portion. The info that DD supplied about replacing the hinge pins with new and re-installing the doors prior to painting is spot on. Once a door has been removed from the body, it can be a real chore re-installing it and getting properly aligned. I generally have a lot of body work skill, and the patience to go along with it, however, from time to time I encounter a door, fender, etc., that I have to call upon a pro to fix. A few years ago I was involved in the restoration of a second '39 Plymouth Conv Cpe.. On my postings on the POC web site I referred to the second '39 conv as the "Alabama Car". The car was reputedly "paint ready" when my friend purchased the car, all of the rust issues had been repaired, including a new floor pan. Serious issues started cropping up with car, doors, fenders, etc., did not fit correctly. After much work trying to get things to align properly it was found that the body and chassis was out of square. The vehicle was put on a frame machine which revealed that the chassis and body was 1.5" out of square. the entire chassis and body had to be cut apart and correctly re-aligned. Lots of work and naturally a lot of money because the first body man did not check the chassis for square and parallel before he reinstalled the body to the chassis and started the rust out repairs. Wm.
  10. 39 Side Mirrors?

    Lloyd, et-all I did an info search for hinge pin removal tools. Dennis Carpenter.com has then, TL100 @ 29.95. Eastwood also has the tool, same price.. Bill
  11. Spot light bracket #

    The '46-48 converts are very similar to my '39 conv. The shaft for the Mopar's is quite short, approximately 10.5" long.. My '39 came with Appleton spots and fogs.. That appears to be quite common on the '30/40 model DCPD's..
  12. 39 Side Mirrors?

    lloyd, I just purchased a pair, left/right w/hinge pins of the VW mirrors from JBugs.com, total price including shipping, $78.69. I had been thinking about purchasing an extra set of mirrors for my '36 for quite some time, my have been on the car since about 1964, they are original German VW and in excellent shape, however, do-do occurs when least expected. The door hinge pins can be very hard to remove. There is a tool made to remove the pins with very little beating on them with a 3/16 drift punch and a hammer. Spray some BLASTER on the hinges, letting it soak for a few days. I believe that Drake has the pin press tool. If you should need any body parts and/or accessories for your '39 Plym let me know. I parted out three '39 sedans when I was rebuilding my convertible coupe, have sold a lot of the extra parts that I had, however, I still have a lot of stuff, some of which is NOS. Bill
  13. 39 Side Mirrors?

    Lloyd, I would suggest the VW hinge pin mirrors, they are basically a no brainer.. I first saw the VW mirrors on a '36 Ford Roadster in about '63. I chased the car down because the mirrors, left and right, looked much better than the stock Ford hinge pin mirrors. I beat feet to the VW dealer and bought a set for my '36 Ford. As I mentioned in my comments about the '39 Plym, the right mirror is hard to see things in, this can be solved by putting a 3.5" fish-eye mirror over the original mirror.. With a fish-eye mirror glued over the original mirror you can see the entire right side of the car, fender, etc., with just a brief glance. I looked online, the VW mirrors are available from: jbugs.com 1946-1967 Beetle P#113857513AME left.. #11385714AME right at $24.95 each Hinge pins ...... 111857514 @ $6.95 ea... Wm..
  14. 39 Side Mirrors?

    The '37 through '41 DCPD open cars had a bolt-on wind wing that I don't like the looks of, they don't fit to the "A" pillar very well and they are very prone to getting broken. There are three 1/4-20 blind nuts incorporated into the door skin for the wind wings to attach to. I made a wooden "buck" out of hard wood to match the contour of the door, I then made a pattern of the wind wing base, transferred the pattern to a piece of aluminum and proceeded to hammer the aluminum into shape using plastic and/or wooden mallets. A little polishing and drilling the holes to match the door finished the mount. I then positioned the Swan mirror on the bracket, drilling same to match the screw pattern on the mirror base. I contacted Metro Rubber and purchased original style of rubber mounting pads... I mounted the units onto the doors using original style 1/4-20 bolts. Most people think the mirrors and base mounts are original equipment.. I kinda fib a little, responding to people's questions that the mirror assembly is a special California item, the same as my one piece rear gravel shield. I installed Volks Wagon door hinge pin mirrors on my '36 Ford coupe many years ago. They were a direct fit with no modifications. The DCPD's use the same size door pin a Ford, therefore I think the VW mirrors would be an easy fit..
  15. 39 Heater?

    The steering wheel knobs, necker/suicide made one handed driving very easy in the pre power steering cars. The free hand could to used for all kinds of mischief with a girl friend...
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