Don St Peter

Car now titled and tagged in California. Tom ( the buyer) is finally driving his new purchase as We speak. End of story!

Update on my seized 1940 P-9. Luckily a friend of a friend personally knew the Wichita Kansas Police Chief. Once He got my written summary of events, He notified me that same day a detective had been assigned to the case on a priority basis. The buyer of the car, who the California HP had seized it from, notified him the very next day that the car was available to be picked up. Two full weeks of exactly no movement on the matter, including a lawyer I employed. Moral of this story..... do not ever ever burn any friendship bridges. Relieved in Fl.

Thanks for sharing your depressing experience. Well, the P-9 has been seized by the Ca. Highway Patrol pending an investigation by the Wichita Ks. police department, which is the place it was reported stolen back sometime prior to my purchase in July 2000 with a clear title issue to me prior to my 20 year restoration project. Guess We will see where this goes. Tx again

I am a POC member and I I have owned my P9 since 1999 and restored it to original condition over the years with the help of many POC members. The car was clear titled to me when purchased in 1999 in Kansas, and title reissued to my Trust when I moved to Florida in 2003. I recently sold the car to another POC member who lives in California. SUPRISE.... in trying to title the car in California the buyer was informed the title search revealed the car was reported as stolen many many years back. The story thickens however I will try to keep a long story short. I think I need to convince the police department that the body number on the fire proof plate on the engine side of the firewall, is the body number assigned by Chrysler. The body number is 2135042 and according to the build records I obtained when I started the restoration back in year 2000, matches the original engine number P9-345874. The police department reports that the body number is on the right front body hinge post and is 9079622. This is the number they used to do their search and ultimately used to determine it to be stolen. Currently, the Title shows the engine number P9-345874 as the VIN number. How/why this happened I have no idea. Can someone please help us ( buyer and I ) out in unravelling this mess?

I am trying to adjust the shifting linkage to get into reverse, which I know is there somewhere. Can someone direct me to the details of how the adjustments are made? The service manual does not address the issue. Thanks in advance for any help

Guess I sent something unfinished! I'll try again Thanks for reply. My P-9 is positive gnd. I've attached a pic of the meter I was using and it shot craps. Now I'm in market for new reasonably priced meter that will work for me. As I can only find a 12 V out there, I would probably go with a two lead tune-up analyzer that would read out volts, PT resistance, dwell and tach like the one I have unless you have a better thought.

I cannot find a 6 V Tach/Dwell/Volt analyzer, sooooo Based upon the discussion above regarding use of a 12 V timing light on 6 volt system; I assume I could use a 12 V Tach Dwell Volt analyzer on my 6 Volt system using a similar lash up using a 12 volt battery. Question is what would the hookup look like. I can't figure it out. Thanks in advance for help Don

Sorry I got it wrong Todd. I follow both yours and Tim Adam's post regularily as I have found both great sources of info! Don

Thanks Tim. Just realized I have the " Plymouth Shop Manual" for 40 series and not " Service Manual" which I shall order. So, is it a dumb question to assume that at idle my RPM's should be indicating 1/2 of 350 or about 175? Don

Thanks for hook up clarification. As you can tell I'm a novice at this, but will eventually learn. So could I purchase a battery powered timing light and use it? Also, I can't seem to find the recommended idle RPM's on my 40 Ply P-9 in the service manual. Can anyone tell me what idle RPM should be so timing will be right when correct procedure is done? Also, I want to determine dwell angle with my RPM, Dwell, Voltmeter but can't find what dwell should be with points set properly ( which is .020 for my 40). Thanks all Don

So Don; you are saying just buy a 12 V timing light and hook it up across my 6 v car battery and clamp the sensor to # 1 plug wire and proceed? Tx Don

Does anyone know where I can get one? I know Advance Autos sources does not make one Tx Don

Merle Thanks for the translation on the picture. I guess I am just confused when I see the black lead of tester hooked to + connection of the coil. Tx again Don

Thanks Rich and Merle. Got that part, but I still seem to have a mental block translating what you say to the ignition system voltage drop test as shown on the schematic I attached. For example, if I hook the red lead of tester to the pos. post of batt (gnd.)., then do I hook the blk lead of tester to the coil neg. and jumper the pos. of coil to ground or do I hook the blk. lead of tester to coil pos. and jumper the Neg. of coil to ground? Sorry for adding to confusion. Don

I have attached a file ( hopefully) showing tester hookup for checking ignition system for neg ground system. Can someone take a look at it and tell me how to hookup a pos ground system like my 40 Ply. Thanks In AdvanceScan0001.pdf

I noticed the below post by Merle in 2012 when I was trouble shooting my fuel pump problem yesterday."There seems to be a trend in the modern "new" pumps that they don't secure the pin properly. I've heard many horror stories, and I have even had one work out. When the pin walks out the linkage falls apart and it stops pumping. The rebuild kits from Antique Auto Parts Cellar use a pin with retaining clips. Easy to rebuild and no problems since. Otherwise I'd suggest staking the pin good on any "new" pump, no matter where you purchase it." This pin "walking out and the linkage falls apart" is exactly what I found upon pump removal on my some 500 mi pump. Can you suggest a good pump source that has solved this problem. Thanks in Advance Don Merle

Checked and cleaned all attach points on horns and relay. They seem to work ok now.... but problem was intermittent to start with, so we will see Thanks for all good input Don

Does the fact that I hear the relay clicking confirm the circuit is working but relay is bad and/or intermittent? I will check as advised tomorrow when it is light.

Silly question.... the single wire from horn button is ground wire I think so you are saying insure good attachment at that point.

My duel horns work now and then. When not working I can depress horn button and all I hear is relay clicking. Is my relay bad or is there something else I should look at? Any thoughts would be appreciated. Tx

sorry. I now see the final results. Don

Larry Did you find out what was causing the problem you reported here? I am following with interest as My P-9 does the same thing all of a sudden. Tx Don

Over the past 5 months, I have had much depressing and unsuccessful negotiation and discussions with the chrome shop I used for bright work on my Ply antique car restoration. Ruined and lost parts entrusted to those that destroy are sinful in my opinion; thus this ALERT to my fellow restorers. I will happiliy discuss my experience with anyone interested in details. Don St Peter dstpeter1@thevillages.net 316 304 3650 ALERT Speaking from an experienced antique car man and frequent visitor to this forum: Do not use Custom Cast and Chroming out of Titusville Fl. for any of your Chroming and/or casting needs. Pass the word throughout your discussion forums. Their Web site is customcastchrome.com. 1. Their work is sub standard 2. They do not stand behind their WORD 3. They do not stand behind their WORK

I will send you a pic of my glove box button and attachment when I figure out how to attach a pic from my I pad to this site Don

Interestingly I have a 40 Ply P-9 and my shifting mechanism are rods... No cables. Since some of you have 40 Ply with cable, there must have been a mid year change??? Don