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Barry Maxwell

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Everything posted by Barry Maxwell

  1. Reg: Thanks for the offer, but I have both mirror arms. I just haven't mounted them because they would get in the way as I move around the truck. Thanks again. Barry
  2. To All: After 4+ years of work sandwiched between farm work, orchard work, building maintenance, etc., my son and I finally started my '51 B3C and it runs!! We set the points, adjusted the timing, put 5 gal. of fuel in the tank and hit the starter. Much to my surprise it started on the first turn of the engine and produced 40 psi oil pressure, 160 deg. water temp., and 17-18 in. Hg. vacuum, a good charging rate, and it purrs like a kitten. I backed it out of the shop and ran it around the farm for a bit in first and second gear and it stops. After I got it back in the shop the fuel bowl attached to the carb started spraying fuel on the engine (not a good thing). I shut it down, cleaned up the fuel (fortunately no fire) and determined that one of the four tapped holes for the bowl cover is stripped. I contacted Mark Fritsche (ggdad1951) about a replacement. He thinks he may have one but he won't know for sure until he completes his move into his new house. I have attached several photos of the grand day. Barry
  3. The wedge goes towards the window. Mine were a little long, so I trimmed them back a little. Barry
  4. Bobacuda: I had my seats (51 B3C) redone by a local shop and they did a great (but pricey) job. Although I didn't remove the seats, I did check several of your measurements. A summary is shown below: * Your height of the front of seat bottom = 8-1/2". Mine is 7" * Your height of the side of the seat bottom = 8". Mine is 7" * Your distance between the steering wheel and the seat back = 11". Mine is 14" * Your width of the top of the seat back = 6-1/4". Mine is 4" Since I didn't remove my seats, these are the only measurements I could get. If I have done it correctly, there should be a photo of my seats attached. Hope this helps. Barry
  5. Thanks guys. One of my lights is hooked up correctly and one is not. I can fix that with a simple switch of bullet connectors. Thanks again. Barry
  6. I have installed dual filament bulbs in the front parking lights of my '51 B3C. One filament is brighter than the other. My question is should the brighter filament be for the parking light function and the dimmer filament be for the turn signal function or vice versa? Many thanks. Barry
  7. Thanks Merle. I assumed that was the case, but I wasn't sure. Barry
  8. Page 23-12 of my Mopar Parts List shows the bumpers (23-08-40) and the fuzzy weatherstrip (23-63-97) which is also a bear to install after the glass is in place. The bumpers go in slots on the inner edge of the window opening. The weatherstrip goes on the outer edge of the opening. Barry
  9. Mark: I hope that you didn't think I was serious. Since the door rubber starts about 1" beyond the division bar and the cab rubber ends about 1" beyond the welded seam, it appears that both rubbers will overlap by 8-9". I assume that is not a problem. Correct? Barry
  10. The rubber bumpers definitely go into two slots on the inside edge of the top of the window opening. They are a bugger to install after the window is in place. Barry
  11. Thanks Mark. That ends my questions on this topic. Barry
  12. Mark: Perfect. Just what I needed. On a related topic, a Forum member emailed me asking which side or sides of the cab rubber are cemented to the door. I responded that I "think" that the two sides that are at right angles to each other are the ones that attach to the door, and the thin angular flange goes out as indicated in the video. Correct, or is it only necessary to cement the side that is against the cab? Sorry to be such a pain. Barry
  13. Mark: Yes, it helps. I found the bump and it matches the bump on the rear of the door, just above the horizontal seal on the cab. Now my fuzzy head is beginning to clear up somewhat. Wonders never cease! If you can get a photo which shows the path of the seal as it goes down to the bump, it would be appreciated. Since I have a medical issue that will be dealt with on Fri., there is no rush. I don't expect that I will be back in the shop until the weekend (hopefully). Thanks for walking me through this. Barry
  14. Thank you all for your responses. Very helpful - particularly tips to work with shorter sections of the rubber and the use of tape on either side of the rubber. The adhesive from Roberts is Permatex. It may be that the tube I got is bad. It doesn't flow and is difficult to get out of the tube and it mostly comes out in globs. I think I will go with 3M super weather strip adhesive as mentioned by several of you. The video from Mark (ggdad1951) is both very helpful and somewhat confusing (at least to me). I understand that the cab rubber runs from near the bottom of the door opening and ends just beyond the seam at the A-pillar. No problem. The confusing part deals with the door rubber. It runs from just behind the division bar down the rear of the door and is supposed to end near a "bump" in the door. I can't find the "bump". Further, I don't see how the rubber is supposed to get by the door check and door hinge. Obviously I am missing something in my understanding. If the door rubber was to run from just behind the division bar down the rear of the door, there is a "bump" about opposite to the horizontal seal on the cab. That would mean that both the door and cab seals would be in contact with each other when the door is closed. I assume that is not correct. Hopefully someone can straighten me out on my understanding of all this. I should note in closing that my truck is a '51 B3C. Thanks for any further help any of you can provide. Barry
  15. I am about to install the door seals from Roberts (one seal on the door and one on the cab). I also bought the adhesive Roberts sells, but since it appears to be so difficult and messy to use, I am looking for an alternative adhesive. What have some of you folks used and has it held up? Thanks for any help you can provide. Barry
  16. Very impressive chronological history!! Thanks. Barry
  17. To All: Well, I finally got it right this time, as the attachment shows. When I took the sill plate off and saw the two vertical flanges with holes that match up with the cab, I couldn't believe that I had such a horrendous brain fart when I installed it. Unfortunately, it happens with me on occasion. Thanks again you guys for helping me out. Barry
  18. To All: Wow, I sure screwed up this time!! Thanks to Bob, John, and Merle, I now see that I have the sill plate "inside-out" as John put it. A part of me want to leave it the way it is and pretend there is nothing wrong. A larger part of me, however, knows that I have to correct the problem I made for myself. Bummer! My next post and photo will have it correct (hopefully). Thanks again you guys. Boy, this hobby is sure "fun" (despite the bad days). Barry
  19. John: I don't understand what "inside-out" means. It is mounted exactly like it was when I bought the truck 5 years ago, and the sill plate is mounted in the same holes. Perhaps one of the previous owners made some changes that I am not aware of. In any event, it is a moot point now. I just finished the installation of the sill seal as shown in the attachment. The seal fits perfectly in the horizontal groove that you can see in the door. Even if it may be wrong, I am happy. Barry
  20. Thank you all for your responses. Particular thanks to Bob for his response and photo. I now know how to proceed. Barry
  21. The attached photo shows the passenger side sill plate of my '51 B3C and an end view of the sill seal from Roberts. My question is where and how does the seal attach? Should I use the screws that attach the sill plate, or attach it higher in the rough/mottled area just above the plate? Thanks for any input. Barry
  22. Hank: Although I gave it some thought soon after I bought the truck, I finally decided to eliminate the wrecker lettering and go with green (thanks to you). As for the armrest, I believe it is original (at least it was on the truck when I bought it), and the underside IS plastic. Barry
  23. Thanks guys. It all make sense now. My original truck had a column shift and a parking brake handle under the dash. The next owner (who converted the truck to a wrecker) then installed a different transmission with a floor shift and a parking brake lever next to the floor shift. When I disassembled the truck in 2010, I removed the parking brake handle (which I still have), and removed the above bracket (not knowing what it was for). Can anyone use the under dash brake handle and bracket? Thanks again everyone. Barry
  24. I will try and repost the above photo. I don't know what went wrong.
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