Dozerman51

It depends on what you feel comfortable with. OEM fluid should be gear oil not grease. At the very least, you should use a semi-fluid grease such as 00 or 000 like what was used on Caterpillar Tractor undercarriage back in the day. It is sticky like regular grease but has much better fluid characteristics than normal grease. Good luck on either way you decide to go. 

“Nice job”

Looks like like a real job to me. 

KOn your 1967 crate motor, does the stamped pad say T-214. If so, that is a replacement motor for a WWII 3/4 ton WC truck. I routed my oil filter lines just like your motor. The canister itself is a Purolator Military Standard. 

Yes I make big mistake. 4.25”, 4.50” and 4.75“. Old age . LOL

The 25” 3&7/16 bore motors came in 3 stroke lengths, 3.25”(237), 3.50”(251) and 3.75”(265). Remove the timing plug near #6 cylinder, and use a thin rod inserted in the hole to measure the stroke. 

Axle ratio should be stamped on a rectangular pad below the filler plug and re- enforcement rib of the third member on right side of truck. May need to sand or wire brush pad real good to see the stamped number. The factory seemed to have employed people who either used a very light weight hammer or where weaklings when stamping the axle ratio number. 

What axle ratio do you have in your WD-20?

It’s CAL not OAL. The 230 in my WC-12 had a serial number of DR0014232CAL. The original T-211 motor was replaced with this one in 1957. They had written the replacement date and year on the cab door opening in grease pencil. Don’t ask me it stayed there from 1957 until I purchased the truck in 1987.  It did say “New” motor, not “Rebuilt” motor. I have heard these were factory built replacement motors and the Serial number pad was left blank. This was done so the DMV in that particular State could stamp a serial number on it which was used as the VIN number. Perhaps it’s true or maybe not.  It could also be a rebuilt motor that had the original serial number ground down and a new one stamped in when it was installed in the truck. 

Depending on the steering gear model, you need to change out the dried up cork seal between the housing and the body and mic up a metric seal that is a tight around the steering gear shaft. On my WC-12 steering box I also used some Permatex #2 when putting the housing and body back together. It is going on 4 years now and not a drop of 90Wt is leaking out of the steering gear. I only check it every now and then and have never had to top it off. It’s nice not having 90Wt oil all over the frame rail and on the ground.

You guys are right about the cab plate serial number. You learn something new every day. I’m never too proud to say I’m wrong. LOL.

According to a parts manual found at the 39-47 Dodge groups forum they do. Just to be sure, go and check that forum and the parts manual. Good luck with your truck.

As far as your cab serial number plate is concerned, that 4712 number looks to me like a cab from a 1947 1/2 ton WC  truck with the cab serial number that follows. At least that is what I have learned through researching. My 1941 WC 1/2 ton Military truck has a cab plate stamped 4162. The 62 is the model number of the cab which had some differences to the civilian Model which would have been like your plate with a 12. Hope this info helps.

For the American built T-112 1/2 ton WC the numbers are Front: Right side-579590, left side-579591 same numbers are shown for the rear cylinders. 

Check E-bay for NOS ring and pinion sets. Type in Mopar NOS ring and pinion sets.

With enough time and more importantly...$$$$$$, you can modify them for greater freeway speeds creature comforts etc. The original running gear is good for a cruise speed of around 40-45 max.  They were built for off road not on road driving. Good luck in your endeavor.

Contact Vintage Power Wagons in Fairfield Iowa or Midwest Military in Minnesota. They should have the studs. Part number is 929855. Give them this number. I would think those studs are grade 8. That 8&3/4” third member weights around 70 Lbs or so. 

Should be silver like the engine. 

Well it looks like you got your money’s worth out of the 237. Good luck installing the 251. Take your time and it will all be good.

Well, how many miles did the 237 have on it when it decided to grenade? What were you taching? Must have really gotten your attention. 

Easy way to tell a synchronized from a non-synchronized PH 4 speed is to look at the drain plug. A synchronized unit has the drain plug running horizontal at the bottom rear of the case while a non-synchronized unit has the drain plug running at an angle in the same general area. At least that is what the parts book shows talks about.

I believe the ratios available in a 1950 1 ton were 3.91, 4.30 and 4.89 with the 4.30 being the standard ratio and the other two being an option. The 4.10 ratio was available in late 1951 or early 1952 and the 3.91 ratio was dropped at that time. The 3.91, 4.10 and 4.30 ring  and pinion sets are pretty much unobtainable, but the 4.89 ratio set is available from Midwest Military I believe. 

The TDC mark must line up with the pointed arrow on the timing case cover. 

Thanks For the Info T120. Much appreciated.