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Dozerman51

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Everything posted by Dozerman51

  1. Thanks for the great advice 59bisquik. Will do exactly that. Again! It all hinges on the exam of it by the machine shop. I am cautiously optimistic that the head will check out ok. Or you going to the BBQ?
  2. The weight of a spare Spitfire Head that I have is 38.8 Lbs. The weight of this Aluminum Head is 14.3 Lbs. Weight savings of 24.5 Lbs. The Ind-7 Block will appreciate it. LOL.
  3. That is a very nice looking flathead, that's for sure. Congratulations.
  4. Thanks for the compliments guys. I believe this head has a 7:1 compression ratio. Will see if it’s possible to have it shaved so I can get an 8:1 compression ratio out of it.
  5. The Head arrived today. All the threaded holes look good. There is a tag on it that says "37-41 Chrysler Alum. Good Used". Hope the tag is telling the truth. LOL. Will have it checked out at the machine shop, and if good, will install on the IND-7. Will not look as good as the '41 Spitfire head, but should be a good conversation piece at the vehicle shows. Here are some photos of it.
  6. Your distributor was manufactured in May of 1951.
  7. The best factory Distributor to put in a 23” motor would be the 1957-59 Plymouth and Dodge Autolite IBR-4001. This would have the best advance curves of them all I believe. Installed one in the 230 when I had that motor in my WC-12. You felt the extra “Pop” when you were giving the Flathead the old “Gasollo”.LOL.
  8. Found out from another Forum that part number 695748 is found in the 39-41 Chrysler parts manuals. Learning something new is always fun.
  9. Hi Dodgeb4ya, You sure can’t beat the look of the “D” model Tachs that’s for sure. I used Rust-Oleum gloss black on the gauge and light housing. I wanted to mount the tach on the steering column so here is what I did. I bought a slightly smaller diameter PVC slip cap to fit over the back of the gauge. Had a friend of mine open it up just a bit on his lathe to provide a resistance fit over the back of the gauge. Drilled holes for the wires in the cap, painted it gloss black and bought a Sun mounting kit for the steering column. Looks a little massive, but there are no exposed wires and terminals showing behind the gauge.
  10. Hello All, Finally mounted the Instrument light on the tach. Took longer than I anticpated, but I am happy that it works. Will be good to see the tach lit up at night.
  11. Hi Greg g, After doing a little research on the net, you are absolutely correct. The 1934 Desoto Airflow with the 241 Flathead 6 came with an Aluminium Head. Very interesting reading. I would imagine that this head could be ordered on Conventional Design Chrysler cars with the 6 cylinder engine also. Will do more research. Thanks for the heads up.
  12. This one is located in Pennsylvania. Taking a chance, but what the h... . Like I said, it will be a good “Conversation Piece” since I don’t own a boat. LOL.
  13. Picked up a used Chrysler OEM 25” Aluminium Cylinder Head. CC#695798 on E-Bay. Seller claimed all threaded holes were decent. We shall see. Hey, I can always paint it and display it along with my other 23” and 25” heads in my “Man Cave”. LOL. Will post pic’s of it when it arrives.
  14. I painted my IND-7 grey and highlighted the "Spitfire" in red along with other colors on the head. I won't tell you what color the grey is used on as you would ban me from the forum. LOL.
  15. Hi JBNeal, Yes, this tach needs a Transmitter to work. Thing is, I’m not sure if this gauge would run on 12 volts. It could be a 6 volt 6 cylinder gauge set up only. The Data plate on the Transmitter box lists the model of the box, the voltage required and the number of cylinders needed to run the box. I also have 2 or 3 spare model E transmitter boxes along with a good running spare D-1 3500 RPM tach and an NOS D-3 5000 RPM tach. I really love the old school aviation type gauge look.
  16. Oh, by the way, now I know why I like the truck so much. 1955 is my “Birthday suit” year. LOL. Once again, congratulations on the restoration of your Dodge.
  17. Now that is one beautiful Dodge pick-up. Love that color. Congratulations, “you done good”.
  18. Sorry about the no photo thread. let's try this again
  19. Hello All, Here is a photo of a Sun D1 tach I picked up. I was looking for just the light housing to finish the D1 tach I have on my WC-12, but ended up buying the whole gauge. Gauge is not working, but I don’t care. The main thing is the light works. The gauge also has the pointer and the pointer hold down bracket. These gauges are hard to find and expensive. There are 2 on e-bay. One is $650.00 NOS and a rebuilt one for $450.00. $53.00 including shipping is a bargain in my book for just the light housing itself. Once in a while I do get lucky buying pArts at a bargain. LOL.
  20. Do not let them bore it. .060 is the max I would go on a Mopar flathead. At .080, you stand a better than even chance of cooling problems. I would try and find some sleeves and bring the specs. back to standard. Just my opinion and as they say “Opinions are like a......., we all have have one”. LOL.
  21. I am away from home at the moment. The Bunn book is titled Dodge Pick-up and Restoration guide 19.. to 1971. I can give you the ISBN number when I get back back home.
  22. Don Bunns book on Dodge pick-up history has a section that talks about performance modifications for the flatheads. He gives a detailed explanation on how to modify the oiling system. You have to enlarge the main bearing shell caps or something like that. Get the book, it is well worth it.
  23. That is an M-37 3/4 ton Military Pick up, not a Power Wagon. The military style civilian Power Wagon was a 1 ton truck with a longer wheelbase and totally different looking cab. It’s funny how people see my 1941 1/2 ton 4x4 WC Military 1/2 ton and call it a Power Wagon also.
  24. Yes. The mounting ears should be the same and should bolt right up to the bell housing on your truck. I am going to do the same swap on my military WC-12.
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