Dozerman51

If you have not done so already, I would : 1) Remove the thermostat housing and check and/or replace thermostat if needed. 2) Remove all the components from the block, remove water distribution tube and as many core plugs as you can and thoroughly flush the block. 3) Replace the WDT. If the truck had sat for 35 years with water/coolant in the block before you purchased it, rest assured that there is all kinds of rust in it. Find a good temp gauge and install it. With proper maint. of the cooling system, these old flatheads will run cool in all types of climatic conditions.

I second what Dodgeb4ya has said. Parts are a lot easier to find and really no difference in the performance of the B&B vs the Stromberg.

Felicitations. Vous avez trouver un bon moteur la.

The dash panel appears to have the full waterfall or is that just a reflection off of some thing in the cab. If it is indeed the waterfall, the cab or the dash cannot be a 1947. The full waterfall design was stopped some time in late 1941 or early 1942 never to return on the postwar trucks.

Or I should say Plastic????

Guess you must have all the oil leaks plugged up otherwise, the glass wouldn’t look so clean. Nice work.

The T-306 motor is indeed a 218 truck motor originally found in the 1951-53 B3-B and B4-B trucks.

The 1st Mopar 4 speed truck Trans. with 2nd 3rd and 4th gears synchro’d was the NP435. The NP420 was only synchro’d in 3rd and 4th.

Have you used a vacuum gauge to adjust the mixture setting? You want the highest vacuum with a steady to very very little little fluctuating needle at idle. Is the float set to the proper height?

I used a metric seal on the sector set of my WC-12. The original OEM cheap metal retainer and cork gasket didn’t hold back s... . My buddy at the auto parts store measured up the old retainer and seal and ordered me a National metric seal. I took my gear apart, cleaned it, made a new housing bracket gasket, used Permatex when joining the 2 parts of the steering gear and installed the metric seal. Not one drop has leaked out of either the body or the sector shaft. After 30 + years of wiping the frame and springs, they are finally dry of 90WT oil. It has been 2 years now that I did this.

Very nice looking 23” Flathead. Very strange that he doesn’t have an oil filtration system on the motor, or am I missing it?

The Industrial engine manual lists 110 - 140 Lbs. and a compression ratio of 6.6:1. To be fair the book lists the starter cranking speed as 125 RPM’s. Don’t know the cracking speed of my starter but I cranked the engine 4 revolutions for each cylinder reading.

Here are the specs on the cam.

Ok guys, don’t flame me, but I’ve got a question about the cam in my truck. It is a longer duration cam ground for a 251 not a 236. Does that change things as far as timing etc. I can take the bad news. LOL. Did a compression test on the 236. #1 90, #2 100, #3 100, #4 100, #5 80, #6 100. Hoping #5 just needs the valves adjusted although I will check them all. Vacuum gauge reads at 17 (the gauge reading area that says “late ignition timing)with the needle flickering very fast but less than 1/2 “ of mercury. Engine idles real smooth with no miss nor does it miss on acceleration or at high speed. I don’t know if I will install the Aluminum Head when I get it back from the machine shop. I want to have the Spitfire head shaved to give me a compression ratio of around 8 or 9:1. What say guys?

Looks like the rear fenders were made from culvert pipe. Very unique I must say.

The WC looks like it started life as a Command Or Radio Reconnaisance car. The frame has been cut to lengthen it or it has a 123” WC frame on it along with helper springs. Could be an early, mid or late series built WC. Nice job on turning it into a practical farm vehicle. Does it have the Flathead 6? Any pic’s of the instrument panel and data plates possible? What is the serial number on the frame? Got ask all these questions as I am a Military WC 1/2 ton Guy.

Hi All, Looking at perhaps buying another flathead motor. The one I’m looking at has the serial number of T-314-9510.... The T-137 site lists it as either a 236 or a 251 from a B series 1.5 ton truck. The seller says it has what appears to be the full pressure oil system in it. The oil filter canister assembly is mounted to the side of the block not on the head like the by- pass system. My question is this, did the truck 237 motor ever come equipped from the factory with the full flow system or did it only come with the by-pass system. I’d like to find a good rebuildable 265 in my neck of the woods, but they are hard to find. If I have to settle for a 251 I guess I would go with that. This motor is frozen from not having been rotated in at least 20 years. It has been stored in a shed complete with all the manifolds, carb, etc present. If I can get it to rotate, I can check the stroke. It was supposedly a rebuilt motor with very few miles on it. That doesn’t matter to me since it would get the same rebuild treatment as the Ind-7 in my WC-12. Just want to make sure it is a 251 and not a 236. I have one of those already. LOL. Thanks for any info and or advice. Joe

That looks like a 23” head to me.

Nothing like the exhilarating feeling I get when I hand crank start the ice cold IND-7 using full choke. The WC-12 just seems to say “Thanks for that old time start up feeling”. LOL.

Hey Don, I read your story to my “Better half” and she just about fell off the bed laughing. Just goes to show that sometimes, you “Can’t judge a book by its cover”. LOL.

Hi Duffy, Listen, this truck was a “Beater”when I bought it 31 years ago. A good frame, pick-up box, motor upgrade and too much other stuff to list and here is the finished product. The truck is not an original truck by any means, but it is straight, clean and gets a lot of looks. Yes, I have more $ into it than I could ever image to get out of it. I did not pour money into it to make a profit. I poured $ into it so I could enjoy it and leave it to my Grandson when I go to the big “Dodge truck” Rally in the sky. I also informed my Son that if he ever sells it I will find a way to come back and k... his a.. . LOL. You take your time and do a good job on your WF-32 and it will make you proud.

4mula—dlx Appreciate your point off view. Thanks.

So what are the advantages of installing Chevy Pistons and Valves in a Mopar Flathead. Is the installation of these really worth it ? Count me in as a “Mopar or Nocar”.

I drive my WC-12 almost every day except when it is raining. Those Military Non-Directional tires are not the best in the rain when trying to stop. Don't ask me how I know. LOL.

Just take your time and I’m sure when you are done, you will have a real nice looking Truck.