ptwothree

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ptwothree last won the day on March 25 2013

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About ptwothree

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Citrus Heights Ca.
  • My Project Cars
    '52 Cranny 4 dr. Rough but very original.

Converted

  • Location
    Citrus Heights Ca.
  • Interests
    '51 Plymouth Cranbrook
  1. Anyone know of a source for a 1" carb spacer for a carter bb? Or is this a diy project. Looking to use it as a drill and tap mount for a pcv valve. I don't want to reinvent the wheel in case one exist all ready.
  2. Rislone freed up an intake valve stuck open....Engine sat around for a long time after a rebuild. Would toss gas and backfire thru the carb on acceleration.. Poured a half qt thru the carb at fast idle. Choked the engine till it quit running with the last inch or so in the can. Let it soak in overnite. Fired it up the next day and it was cured. Ran really well after that. That was 51 yrs ago. The EPA types would object today as it gets pretty smokey for the first five minutes or so!
  3. I just did mine last week. The upper had some play that disappeared after I tightened up the pinch bolt.
  4. Yes. It's a square cut cork gasket. 1st pic above. Fits in the groove. I'm taking it to the hardware store to get a rubber gasket in case I need one in the future. Also comes with a new clamping ring but the stocker is a better (tighter) fit with the cork gasket.
  5. Ordered this thru Rockauto on the advice of one of the other members. Only mods are a trimming of the straight edge of the sender body and flatting out of the locating tab. The float will point just to the right of the stock filter that sits almost dead center. Next chore is to calibrate this to the guage, then paint and reinstall with a new fuel line. $43 w/tax. This is listed as fitting a '73 jeep Wagoneer.
  6. The shiny area is where I hit it with a wire wheel just to clean it up for the pic. The issue is that both upper and lower retaining nuts were finger tight. I replaced the lower pin and bush assembly on the drivers side. It came with a castellated nut. If I can't find any then I guess it'll be done up with Locktite and the 'shake proof' washers. Andydodge....Thanks for the explanation on the use of Acme threads on these parts...makes sense!
  7. Anyone know the thread pitch on these? My thread checker shows a very loose 10 per inch. I'd like to replace the nut with a castellated nut and cotter pin.
  8. Check the toe. To much toe out will cause the car to be twitchy in a straight line and can make the car over steer in turns or sweepers. Caster is built into the front suspension and is correct when the camber is set.
  9. This is a friendly warning to those of you who have got into the 'old car hobby' recently.You really need to check these cars out before you hit the streets. They are 60 yrs old or so and who knows what tey have been thru or what has been done prior to your ownership. Car might look shiny and all chromey, neet as a pin. Or it could be something that was recently dragged out of a ditch that's been home for the last ....??? Do yourself and all of us a favor and go over the front and rear suspension and steering. I say this because no matter what the PO told you, you just don't know what you don't know. I am going thru the front suspension on my '52. All was ok with the left front....got to the right front and found this...... This is the nut and pin that hold the lower control arm to the spindle. The nut is finger loose in this pic. Not good. So the message here is that just because you pour some gas into the carb, fire it up and go for a cruise, doesn't mean it is safe to do so. Suspension, steering and brakes......check 'em out before they check you out.
  10. You didn't mention the minor eccentric. These also should be backed off as well as the majors. Also, if your installed shoes are touching the backing plate, the drum won't go on. I pried them with a screw driver and they 'popped' into place allowing the drum to go on with room to spare.
  11. Ok...So I have pt# 112324 on both parts. So the one with 5 marks should be 3/8" higher? And the pt# itself relates to what part it is and how stiff it is...? A 112323 would be a softer spring then what I have and a 112325 would be stiffer. Thanks for the help, found it in my book. Just trying to understand this spring thing!
  12. Front coil spring just after the part number. This one has 5 marks the other one has 4.
  13. Do you have a 2 piece or one piece hood? I think '49 was a cross over year and some '46-48 style cars were sold as '49's. If it's a one piece then the hood can stay on...just a wrestling match getting to everything sometimes.
  14. Actually, the switch is not "shoved" it threads quite nicely into the port as shown and that port is drilled all the way through and intersects with the three 3/8-24 ports. I'm thinking I might weld up the hole where the 1/2-20 end is and bolt it to the frame a few inches from where the stock 'T' for the front brake line exist.
  15. I'd be more concerned with the condition of the wiring itself. No cents in putting a dime into a car that has old deteriorated wires. Stick a camera up under the dash and take a bunch of pics. Also under the hood. Anything looking iffy and you should think about a re-wire. Weather you go with stock type cloth insulation or modern day stuff just remember, it's not getting any younger.