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41/53dodges last won the day on January 16 2015

41/53dodges had the most liked content!


About 41/53dodges

  • Rank
    Zen Master, I breathe vintage mopar!
  • Birthday 03/10/1994

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Kenosha, WI
  • My Project Cars
    53' B4B
    41' WF32


  • Location
    Kenosha, WI
  • Interests
    anything mechanical

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  • Occupation
    Mechanical Engineer at FNA Group

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  1. I've been running 12v on my factory 6v starter for years. Never had an issue with it, but I did tear it down to clean and lube it up a long time ago. That would be my first step. Also, check out the flywheel teeth while you've got the starter out. I've seen the starter gear wander back into the ring gear when the engine is running, you just hear this wierd "ching ching" type noise. Fun fact, they're wound to turn the same way regardless of polarity, or at least mine is.
  2. 1st thing I checked, that would be awful to find. But nope, all clean inside. Went to do battle and hose it down with marvel the other day and the darn thing wouldn't stick! So I hosed em all down anyway and let it run awhile.
  3. Hi Fran, welcome go the group! Might I ask, is there a reason you don't want to use the original fasteners? If youre concerned about dirt, I soaked mine in jars of mineral spirits to shed all the crap from the years. That said, if you really want new hardware across the board it's all SAE stuff. Head bolts are kinda special, and there's a lot of different trains of thought on them. I reused mine, some people do studs, and some go to grade 8 bolts. I'd suggest something meant to be a head bolt, hence why I reused mine. Rod bolts are unique to my knowledge, so don't lose em or their washers & nuts. Same goes for the lifter covers. Probably something else I'm forgetting too
  4. It sort of lived, but not in particular fashion. There was the Aussie 265 hemi, hardly related to ours though. Looks sort of like an AMC six with canted valves. They couldn't do the crossflow design of a normal hemi though, nor were the valves anywhere near the angle of the real hemis. That you could pull off with a stock flatty block, but bore size limits valve diameters pretty severely.
  5. Fantabulous question, let me clarify. This block was out of a 47' dump truck, PO bought it as a remanned 237, put it to work for a few years and parked it back in the 80s. Buddy bought the truck and yanked the motor with big dreams, I stripped it down, cleaned up all the rust, honed all the cylinders, ground all the valve seats. New bearings all around, 265 crank, .060 Pistons, new valves to replace the broken ones, and an edgy 1/4 cam. In short, I didn't clearance the valve stems myself. I made sure they were good and tight. But I'm subscribing to the rust theory, some marvel probably ought to do the trick, especially since it hasn't been up to operating temp since fall
  6. I actually worked on a design project like this in college, although more performance oriented. The big challenge was trying to work with the canted valves and pushrods of the hemi with the straight vertical valves of the flathead. Never did figure how to do that with an unmodified block
  7. Pretty much! I think I measured like a whopping 1/32 difference in the intake bore. Which I why I've got an Ellis intake on hand, whenever I find all the stuff to get it together.
  8. They're not a whole lot different from standard truck manifolds, but the intake is a tiny bit bigger and the exhaust is a huge 2.5" 4 bolt dump. Would be very good for a turbo... Here's a picture from when I finished the motor
  9. Heat riser flap was staked in the open position, since the spring was gone. Trucks got 2.5 ton school bus manifolds, so 2.5" straight back exhaust and a glasspack. But that does make me wonder if a mouse might have climbed up in there and built a home... Thing doesn't sound constricted when it runs on all 6, but definitely food for thought...
  10. Nope, already popped the side cover off to check! That was my first thought as well. Best I can figure, the exhaust charge from the other cylinders pressurizes the one with the stuck exhaust valve through the whole cycle, including intake. It seems to blow back and pollute the charge for #2 as well, because that cylinder goes down at the same time but maintains spark and compression. Wierd eh?
  11. Thanks for the thoughts guys, I was kinda figuring it had to do with getting damp and probably rusting up the stem. I'll have to try the marvel mystery oil, or I've got some outboard fogging oil in the garage. The big pain in the rear is that it's the exhaust valve, so it just keeps blowing back through the intake! Funny how that works...
  12. Good morning guys, been forever since I posted a new topic but this one's got me stumped. Last winter I built up a 265 Spitfire engine for my B4b, used an edgy cam, shaved head, and heavy truck manifolds for now. Ran like a Swiss watch. I parked it in fall just before the snow started but usually light it up every month or so. I've noticed that when I start it, #1 exhaust valve keeps hanging open, usually it will come free on it's own accord once it warms up but this time no dice. Had to pry it back down with a screwdriver, and it stuck again immediately. Even tried running it and being the valve spring. Darn thing just sticks up, and makes it sound like a messed up Harley! Has anyone seen something like this before? Josh
  13. Check out Rock Auto for engine parts, it's easier if you search for Chrysler cars though (I usually search 1953 Chrysler Windsor), otherwise vintage power wagons and eBay are your friends. As for those wheels, there's nothing wrong with the original Dodge split rings, just make sure they're not the widowmakers or they're not too rotten. If you still want to get rid of em, there were 22.5 wheels with the 5 lug pattern, I've got a couple myself
  14. What size tires are you running? I have 3.55s and 215-85r16s (about 30" dia.) and it's alright, you'd definitely want some smaller tires with 3.07s. By my countilations, about a 26" wheel would get you 2400 rpm @ 60mph
  15. Well, question number A what do you want out of the truck and why you want to swap? Not really such a thing as an easy swap, everything requires some level of work
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