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41/53dodges

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41/53dodges last won the day on January 16 2015

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About 41/53dodges

  • Rank
    Zen Master, I breathe vintage mopar!
  • Birthday 03/10/1994

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Kenosha, WI
  • My Project Cars
    53' B4B
    41' WF32

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  • Location
    Kenosha, WI
  • Interests
    anything mechanical

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  • Occupation
    Mechanical Engineer at FNA Group

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  1. 41/53dodges

    Slight Engine Modifications

    It sort of lived, but not in particular fashion. There was the Aussie 265 hemi, hardly related to ours though. Looks sort of like an AMC six with canted valves. They couldn't do the crossflow design of a normal hemi though, nor were the valves anywhere near the angle of the real hemis. That you could pull off with a stock flatty block, but bore size limits valve diameters pretty severely.
  2. 41/53dodges

    Sticking valve in a rebuilt motor

    Fantabulous question, let me clarify. This block was out of a 47' dump truck, PO bought it as a remanned 237, put it to work for a few years and parked it back in the 80s. Buddy bought the truck and yanked the motor with big dreams, I stripped it down, cleaned up all the rust, honed all the cylinders, ground all the valve seats. New bearings all around, 265 crank, .060 Pistons, new valves to replace the broken ones, and an edgy 1/4 cam. In short, I didn't clearance the valve stems myself. I made sure they were good and tight. But I'm subscribing to the rust theory, some marvel probably ought to do the trick, especially since it hasn't been up to operating temp since fall
  3. https://buffalo.craigslist.org/pts/d/north-tonawanda-edmunds-2x2-flathead/6831117427.html Guy sent me some measurements, should fit a 25" motor. Unfortunately I've got no use for it myself!
  4. 41/53dodges

    Slight Engine Modifications

    I actually worked on a design project like this in college, although more performance oriented. The big challenge was trying to work with the canted valves and pushrods of the hemi with the straight vertical valves of the flathead. Never did figure how to do that with an unmodified block
  5. 41/53dodges

    Sticking valve in a rebuilt motor

    Pretty much! I think I measured like a whopping 1/32 difference in the intake bore. Which I why I've got an Ellis intake on hand, whenever I find all the stuff to get it together.
  6. 41/53dodges

    Sticking valve in a rebuilt motor

    They're not a whole lot different from standard truck manifolds, but the intake is a tiny bit bigger and the exhaust is a huge 2.5" 4 bolt dump. Would be very good for a turbo... Here's a picture from when I finished the motor
  7. 41/53dodges

    Sticking valve in a rebuilt motor

    Heat riser flap was staked in the open position, since the spring was gone. Trucks got 2.5 ton school bus manifolds, so 2.5" straight back exhaust and a glasspack. But that does make me wonder if a mouse might have climbed up in there and built a home... Thing doesn't sound constricted when it runs on all 6, but definitely food for thought...
  8. 41/53dodges

    Sticking valve in a rebuilt motor

    Nope, already popped the side cover off to check! That was my first thought as well. Best I can figure, the exhaust charge from the other cylinders pressurizes the one with the stuck exhaust valve through the whole cycle, including intake. It seems to blow back and pollute the charge for #2 as well, because that cylinder goes down at the same time but maintains spark and compression. Wierd eh?
  9. 41/53dodges

    Sticking valve in a rebuilt motor

    Thanks for the thoughts guys, I was kinda figuring it had to do with getting damp and probably rusting up the stem. I'll have to try the marvel mystery oil, or I've got some outboard fogging oil in the garage. The big pain in the rear is that it's the exhaust valve, so it just keeps blowing back through the intake! Funny how that works...
  10. Good morning guys, been forever since I posted a new topic but this one's got me stumped. Last winter I built up a 265 Spitfire engine for my B4b, used an edgy cam, shaved head, and heavy truck manifolds for now. Ran like a Swiss watch. I parked it in fall just before the snow started but usually light it up every month or so. I've noticed that when I start it, #1 exhaust valve keeps hanging open, usually it will come free on it's own accord once it warms up but this time no dice. Had to pry it back down with a screwdriver, and it stuck again immediately. Even tried running it and being the valve spring. Darn thing just sticks up, and makes it sound like a messed up Harley! Has anyone seen something like this before? Josh
  11. 41/53dodges

    1948 dodge pilot house dually!

    Check out Rock Auto for engine parts, it's easier if you search for Chrysler cars though (I usually search 1953 Chrysler Windsor), otherwise vintage power wagons and eBay are your friends. As for those wheels, there's nothing wrong with the original Dodge split rings, just make sure they're not the widowmakers or they're not too rotten. If you still want to get rid of em, there were 22.5 wheels with the 5 lug pattern, I've got a couple myself
  12. 41/53dodges

    thoughts on 3:07 gears?

    What size tires are you running? I have 3.55s and 215-85r16s (about 30" dia.) and it's alright, you'd definitely want some smaller tires with 3.07s. By my countilations, about a 26" wheel would get you 2400 rpm @ 60mph
  13. 41/53dodges

    Motor and tranny swap

    Well, question number A what do you want out of the truck and why you want to swap? Not really such a thing as an easy swap, everything requires some level of work
  14. 41/53dodges

    Flat head supercharged

    Not a very extensive one, made some modifications since then. Eventually gave up on the fuel injection and went back to the carb. Turbo was particularly small, like off a 1.6l Subaru. Boost hit about 1200rpm and carried all the way to the top, but the issue was exhaust backpressure started countering the boost above 2500, kinda like a banana in the tailpipe. That said, for super and turbocharging alike the exhaust is a big problem. Scavenging is deeply improved going to duals (read up on flat vs cross plane cranks for V8s for reference) Cleaning up the ports & combustion Chambers with a mild cam help as well. Basically, build a reliably strong N/A motor inside and out and build from there. Probably should stipulate, If you're expecting V8 power then this is not the solution. It's not going to raise the motors redline, and the boost curve doesn't change the motors natural torque curve, only aids (and sometimes pulls it down) Feel free to pick my brain if you please! I'm by no means a wizard, although I do like pointy hats...
  15. 41/53dodges

    Flat head supercharged

    I ran a small turbo on a tired 218 for a few years, blew through a factory BB carb at like 5-7lbs. I'm not going to call it a good idea, but it worked better than you'd think, the internal bowl vent and a boost referenced pressure regulator is key. Thing ran like crazy all things considered.
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