Jump to content


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by knuckleharley

  1. knuckleharley

    1950 Dodge Meadowbrook

    That one looks like it would be a solid base to work from at a reasonable price if someone was close enough to Atlanta to make the drive.
  2. knuckleharley

    My First Car -- P15 1947 Plymouth Deluxe

    He's right. I also recommend you start fixing stuff as you take it apart. This includes priming and making ready for paint and sending your chrome off to the chrome shop a year before you need it. That way there is no danger of having a completely disassembled car with hundreds of random parts laying around that need to be redone,and getting overwhelmed. For example,pull the front clip and get it all blasted,repaired,and ready for a final scuff and wipe down before the color goes on. This is a good time to make an inventory of all the crhome you are going to be sending off to the chrome shop,along with photos of it, You can also redo the headlight buckets,blast and paint the bumper braces,etc,etc,etc. When you get all that done,pull the engine and trans,and start working on the firewall,floors,and doors. Don't start on something else until you have finished repairing and prepping what you have already pulled. Make notes of what you need to buy as you pull it apart and work on it. Include little stuff like new gaskets for the parking lights,new parking light lenses,etc,etc,etc. Put the bolts you pull from the fenders in bags with seals and mark them as being from the front fenders,bumper brackes,hood hinges,radiator,etc,etc,etc. You will be glad you did later.
  3. knuckleharley

    230 Crankshaft source

    Well,it doesn't always end that way. The thing you need to do is look for local car clubs,or at least clubs "local" enough you can go to their shows or runs occasionally to meet and talk with people who also own and drive old American cars. Meet a few people and ask them who did their engine work and who they would recommend to do yours. Try to avoid mass re-manufacturers of modern engines for businesses if you can because there are "quirks" to old designs they won't know about. And since you already have another engine in your car but want to rebuild the original to put back in there,I will give you the same advise I give to new American owners of old cars. Contact vocational/technical schools in your area,find one that has an automotive machine shop course,and enroll in those classes and rebuild it yourself under supervision. Yeah,that will take longer than just dropping it off for someone else to build,but you don't need it right away and you won't be able to put a price on the pride you will get from doing it yourself.
  4. knuckleharley

    Bias Plys or Radials

    One thing you can do is grind down/drill out the rivets so you can save your rims,and then have a wheel shop rivet your old centers into newer and wider outers. That way you haven't destroyed anything and can go back to stock wheels if you ever decide to do that. What *I* would do would be save the old wheels and tires and look for new/newer wheels and tires with the same bolt pattern and similar backspacing.
  5. knuckleharley

    I bought another old dodge !

    Who can blame it? That car sounds like a keeper to me!
  6. knuckleharley

    1952 Dodge Coupe hot rod

    Can't speak for anyone else,but I like your plan. Especially the ohv inline 6 Jeep engine.
  7. knuckleharley

    230 Crankshaft source

    Check your local automotive machine shops until you find one that rebuilds crankshafts. They do this by building the journals up with welds,and then grinding them back down to stock OD's. Rebuilding a 230 crank this way is no different than rebuilding a crank for a new Mercedes this way,so it should be no problem as long as you give them the stock main and rod OD's. And yes,straightening and balancing them is a part of the process. Why buy a used crank that MIGHT have to be straightened and ground undersize,when you can just get yours rebuild to new specs for probably less money and a lot less time when you consider shipping? If worse comes to worse you can ship your crank to Power Engineering in Denver,Colorado and have them do it. I used to work there myself back in the 70's,and know for a fact they ship internationally. Still,it is best,cheapest,and quickest to have it done locally if possible. There is nothing high-tech or mysterious about it.
  8. knuckleharley

    Part numbers 48 plymouth

    Are you 100 percent certain your rear has never been changed? If not,you might want to check the parts number on it to make sure of what you have before you order parts.
  9. knuckleharley

    My First Car -- P15 1947 Plymouth Deluxe

    I have never heard of this stuff before. Where can you buy it?
  10. knuckleharley

    Interesting photos I have run across.

    Janis Joplin???
  11. knuckleharley

    Interesting photos I have run across.

    What did that old car ever do to anyone to deserve that?
  12. knuckleharley

    remembrance tour "Battle of the Bulge" (right in my back yard)

    I understood them to the point where starting in the 3rd grade my goal was to become a paratrooper. I even wore jump boots to elementary school. Joined the army on my 17th birthday after enlisting for a guaranteed assignment to jump school (airborne unassigned),and ended up serving 6 years in Special Forces before getting medievaced from VN while on my second tour there in 1969. No longer physically able to remain in a Special Forces or other airborne unit,I was assigned to the regular army as a babysitter (NCO) for young draftees who didn't want to be there and who spent more effort trying to avoid doing anything useful than they did actually doing anything. The regular army didn't like me any better than I liked them,so I took my discharge in 1970. It is a rare day that passes that I still don't miss being in SF,though. This is due entirely to the people I served with. Nobody had to be ordered to do anything. If someone saw something that needed to be done,they did it and didn't bitch about it. Best time of my life.
  13. knuckleharley

    remembrance tour "Battle of the Bulge" (right in my back yard)

    I had a cousin that married a young man that was a paratrooper in the 101st. He ended the war as a platoon sgt. One of my neighbors as a kid was a draftee that got a battlefield commission to 1st Lt Platoon Leader of Armor with Patton in Africa. Never saw him mad in my life until somebody mentioned Patton to him. I thought his head was going to explode.
  14. knuckleharley

    Starter for ‘47 Plymouth special deluxe

    Unless I misunderstood what you wrote,you need to attach a jumper on one of your contacts,and then strike it against the other contact to complete the connection. I usually just use jumper cables and clamp one on the starter terminal,and then strike the other against the part where the mounting holes are on the rear. In other words,you have an open circuit and need to complete it.
  15. knuckleharley

    Exploring my Meadowbrook

    Why would you need a 4 PSI cap with a modern radiator? AFAIK,the 4psi cap was used on the original ones to keep them from building up so much pressure the seams would split. On the other hand,the new radiators are made to handle the higher pressures. Look at the literature you got with your new radiator for cap pressure recommendations. If you can't find any,contact Champion. Chances are excellent your old Mopar will cool just fine with a 4psi cap,but if it ever starts to run hot in traffic,be aware you can put a higher pressure cap on it to help cooling. BTW,I have a Champion aluminum radiator in my 51 Ford with a flat V-8 and original Fordomatic,and IIRC,I am running a 16 lb pressure cap on it.
  16. knuckleharley

    New Member!

    Well,you have already learned to buy nice cars to start with,so that puts you way ahead of me.
  17. knuckleharley

    38 Dodge shorty bus.

    Looks custom-made by a owner to me,and I still want it.
  18. knuckleharley

    My First Car -- P15 1947 Plymouth Deluxe

    YIKES! I'll take the pair right out of my 48 coupe and sell them to you for the low,low price of 500 bucks if you need them that badly! Truth to tell,I'd be surprised if you couldn't buy a good used pair for 50 to 75 bucks,plus shipping. IF they are as universal amongst 40's and 50's cars as I think they might be,25 to 50 bucks plus shipping. They can't be a very hard to find high demand item because I have never heard of anyone looking for them before this. I just had heart surgery so I am not able to move a lot of stuff around or disassemble things right now,but if you haven't found a pair in 2 weeks for less than 50 bucks,shoot me a PM. I'm pretty certain I have some laying around somewhere.
  19. knuckleharley

    Well it happened! I'm done.

    Just be VERY careful to not punch it unless both it and the road ahead are straight.
  20. knuckleharley

    Well it happened! I'm done.

    117 inches? That must have been sporting.
  21. knuckleharley

    Well it happened! I'm done.

    I used to rebuild them a long time ago,but I just buy new ones now and be done with it. ESPECIALLY with fuel pumps that now have to deal with ethanol in the gas. http://arthurgouldrebuilders.com/ I buy mine from this guy. Not cheap,but nobody does it better or uses better parts. I am to the age and physical condition now that I only want to do something once,and even then I want to do it in the comfort of my air-conditioned and heated garage. If you want to learn and experience doing it yourself,there is nothing preventing you from buying a rebuild kit from NAPA or some other parts store after verifying it was made in America,and then rebuilding the old water and/or fuel pumps you just took off,and using them as the spares that ride around in the trunk. If it turns out it spends the rest of your life riding around in the trunk as a spare and never being used,good for you,you won! If it happens that a few years down the road you are broke down hundreds of miles away from home and need a water pump or a fuel pump to get back home,once again,"Good for you,you WON!" Maybe it is just me,but I have always found it to be a LOT more fun rebuilding an old part at my leisure and not have to worry about getting it rebuilt and back on the car as soon as possible so I can go for a ride.
  22. knuckleharley

    Well it happened! I'm done.

    You are welcome. To me the learning experience is a large part of the fun. Once you figure out what the problem was and what to needs be done about it,of course. The reward is the feeling of accomplishment,which is next to impossible to find with modern cars that have miles of wiring and require thousands of dollars in special tools.
  23. knuckleharley

    My First Car -- P15 1947 Plymouth Deluxe

    If your dad was right about bucket seats being safer,there would be bucket seats in the rear of cars instead of bench seats because there would be government mandates. Bucket seats were safer for race cars because they used chest harnesses originally used in 40's and 50's fighter aircraft,and bucket seats allowed them to be bolted or wrapped around roll bars in race cars. Bolt your seatbelt straps to the floor behind you after reinforcing it with big washers or straps of metal bolted to the floor and you will be fine. After all,the seat belt straps fit between the seat bottom and the seat back anyhow.
  24. knuckleharley

    Hello, I am new here

    Nice looking car,and the two door sedans are pretty rare.

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use