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Everything posted by knuckleharley

  1. Dashpot Carb help

    The dashpot carb will be needed regardless of if you run one or two carbs,but there is no such critter as a "period correct" dashpot carb for a 1934 anything. I could VERY easily be wrong about this,but I THINK you will need dashpots on BOTH carbs for balance purposes if you run a 2 carb intake. If you run a 3 carb intake I THINK you can get by with 1 dashpot on the center carb. If I am wrong,and I probably am because reason often collides with reality,somebody PLEASE correct me. BTW,if you want to go with "period correct",but not "vehicle correct",Mopar had dual carb and dual exhaust factory setups for big trucks starting in the mid-30's. You sometimes see them for sale,but they are expensive. AFAIK,none of the cars ever left the factory with that intake or exhaust setup.
  2. Edgy heads being poured now

    Guys,if you want one of the 23 or 25 inch Edgy heads,now is the time to buy it because they are just starting the pour,and the first 25 buyers of each will get a 1 to 25 special serial number on it. More importantly,you get $200 off for making a early buy. And "No,mine is NOT going to be for sale!" BTW,my only connection with the Montana Boys is a few emails. Never met them in my life and have no financial,family,or business connections with them.
  3. Edgy heads being poured now

    Yeah,I've been there,too. 4 emergency surgeries in 4 or 5 years,plus a few trips to the ER with crap like a broken hand had me buried in debt for several years,and all my stuff just sat there while I was trying to recover financially. I now have some mobility and flexibility issues that cause me problems,but I finally got out from under all those damn medical bills and am trying to get back to working on my cars again just as soon as I get some home repairs made. Or hire someone to do them for me,anyway. Can't climb ladders or kneel very good due to arthritis in my knees. That's why I bought a rotisserie to do bodywork and paint,and a lift to do mechanical work. If I can't bend or kneel to get to the work,I need to make the work come to me so I can sit or stand to do it. It would have probably been cheaper to just pay someone to do the cars,but if I did that I wouldn't have anything to do. My greatest fear in life is to wake up one morning and not have anything interesting to do.
  4. Dashpot Carb help

    I will have a dual carb 230 aluminum intake for sale once I figure out which one I want to run on my own 230. I have an Edmunds that is show polished,and a Nickerson that was sorta polished at one time. Both have water heat. Depending on your chassis,you make a split manifold from a car manifold and a truck manifold. Exhaust manifolds are pretty pricey these days,so that can be expensive. Even worse,it is wasteful. Some people just cut an additional exhaust hole in their stock manifolds and add an outlet with a flange to bolt the second exhaust pipe on. Not really sure how well that works flow-wise with the Siamesed Mopar exhaust ports,though. You can always make headers from exhaust pipes and flat plate,but sometimes you can find cast iron headers that were made by some manufacturer whose logo I can't remember right now,and I'm looking for a set of those in 230 and another set in 251 for my engines. The steel tube headers probably put out more power,but I like the sound of the cast iron headers.
  5. Edgy heads being poured now

    I think they are a hell of a buy. I told the Dodge Boys when they first announced these heads and the target price to put me down for 1 230 head and 1 251 head,and followed up by buying both on the same day. I also found and bought a NOS Edmunds head for the flat 6 Ford engine in my 51 coupe a couple of months ago. Only took about 5 years to find one,and don't ask me what I had to pay for it. It's too painful to talk about. The good news is that since it was NOS it had never been milled or mounted and warped,and you can bet your bippy I will be getting the top of the block surfaced before it is mounted,and that I mount and torque it VERY carefully when it does go on the engine. This stuff in good or even repairable condition is not getting any easier to find,and it's going to get harder to find with every day that passes. On top of that,if you wait 3 or 4 years to buy one,chances are a used one is going to cost you more then than a new one does today.
  6. Dashpot Carb help

    Since you are not restoring for show points,pretty much any single barrel carb used on inline 6's between 200 and 250 cubic inches would work fine for you as long as it has the dashpot and linkage for use with a auto trans.Holley 1904's are good carbs used on everything BUT Mopars for a couple of decades,so they are fairly easy to find with dashpots. Getting kinda pricey these days,though. If it were me,I would look for one with a part number that indicates it came from 215 or 223 OHV Ford 6 because as-is it would be a pretty good match for your 230. Stay away from the ones used on 170 cubic inch Falcons or similar displacement engines unless you plan on running dual or triple carbs. In that case,they would be close to ideal. I am no expert on the port sizes of various Mopar engines,but I suspect you could find a little more power and maybe even fuel mileage by going with more modern intake and exhaust manifolds. The 50's 230's made a LOT more power than the 34 201-whatevers,and being able to inhale and exhale is a large part of that.
  7. 1950 Special Deluxe

    Disconnect your battery and then take your headlight switch out after making all the wires so you know which wire goes where,and then clean all the contacts on the wires and on the headlight switch. Hook the wires back up again,re-connect your battery,and pull out the knob and see what happens. If you still don't have any headlights use a test light to make sure you have power going to the headlights from the pole on the switch that goes to the headlights. If you have fire there,see if you have power at the headlight plugs. If you don't,you need to fix a short or run new headlight wires. If you don't have any power going from the headlight switch to the headlights,replace the switch. For a back up test you can run a jumper from a hot wire going to the headlight switch and then directly to the wires going to the headlight. If there are still no headlights,you may need to rewire the headlight wires as well as buy a new switch. Do NOT forget to check your dimmer switch in the floor. Lots of times that is the culprit because water and mud gets splashed up on the connections and they need to be cleaned. In FACT,checking high beam and low beam with your headlight switch knob pulled all the way out should be your first test. You might have high beams and no low beams,or low beams and no high beams. That would be a good first clue you need to check and clean all the connections going to the dimmer switch. BTW,I can't remember if this is true of the early 50's Mopar headlight switches or not,but it was pretty common back then to have a fuse plugged into the headlight switch. Checking that fuse and cleaning the contacts while you are messing with it is always a worthwhile thing to do,but it's obviously not the problem because you have taillights.
  8. Edgy heads being poured now

    True,but I don't want or need an aluminum hemi-head. In fact,I have two complete DeSoto hemi's I could use in my 42 if I wanted a hemi in it. I do plan on using one in my basket case 33 Plymouth coupe if I live long enough to get to it,and I will sell the other one. Going to pull them both apart to see what is what,and keep the best one. BUT.....,in my 42 coupe engine bay I want nothing BUT a flat 6 Mopar engine.
  9. Edgy heads being poured now

    And....,let's face the ugly reality that a thousand bucks ain't what it used to be 10 years ago,either. Inflation. I used to carry 20 bucks in cash around on me years ago so I would have a little spending money if something came up. Now I carry 100 bucks.
  10. Edgy heads being poured now

    I pretty much didn't have any choice. I am stuck on loving 1950's style hot rods,and it ain't a 50's hot rod without finned aluminum heads on flatheads. Besides,I will be getting paid back in smiles every time I open the hood and see that finned aluminum head and the 3 carbs. How much money are smiles worth?
  11. Edgy heads being poured now

    You can always ask if they still have any left at that price. It's a special price for the first 25 heads in each series.
  12. Edgy heads being poured now

  13. Edgy heads being poured now

    They are normally $1200 for the 230's and $1400 for the 251's,but the first 25 of each series will be numbered and sold for $1000 and $1100.
  14. Plymouth P28 with Holley

    Yup. Holley sold them to anybody that wanted to buy them,but I think most went on 6 cylinder OHV Fords. Pretty good carbs,plus it's a kick to see the gas flowing through the float bowl. Only real downside is they are getting pricey now,but isn't everything?
  15. Please Help Me with My 1950 Windsor

    VERY clever idea!
  16. 50 Coronet project

    What product did you use as a sealer,and what was the process?
  17. Sbc in 50 plymouth

    Hmmm,is this also true of the 2 speed Powerflite transmissions? I can't remember seeing any special linkage on one of them.
  18. Please Help Me with My 1950 Windsor

    Won't work unless you get the whole steering box or at a minimum,the steering shaft and the column from the donor car. They are longer to accommodate the gear selector. An option would be to use a floor shift conversion if you can find one that could be made to work,like maybe one intended for a Powerglide or a Fordomatic.
  19. Please Help Me with My 1950 Windsor

    BTW,I happen to know for a fact that the 56 DeSoto's also has similar push-button shift box for the 2 speed auto transmissions they use. I have one sitting out in my yard in the 56 DeSoto parts car I bought as a donor car for my 33 Plymouth coupe. It has the 330 hemi,and the 2 speed auto trans with push-button controls. The 55 DeSotos used a lever gear selector in the dash like the Chryslers. Since the Powerflite trans first came out in 1954,it MIGHT also be a bolt on to the 251 flat 6's. BTW,it SEEMS the 54 Mopars with automatic transmissions used a gear selector dial mounted on top of the steering column,like Ford and GM. If you were to buy one of these you might have to get the steering box also,or try to find and buy either a 2 speed dash selector and cable,or a floor shift conversion. Cars with automatic transmissions and gear selectors on the column had longer steering shafts and columns than the standard shift cars. According to All Par,Mopar used the 2 speed auto trans in different applications right up to 1961. https://www.allpar.com/mopar/powerflite.html
  20. Please Help Me with My 1950 Windsor

    No,I have not. My plan is to use the original 42 230 engine if possible. It only has 30k original miles on it. If that doesn't work out,I plan on using the 55 230 unless it turns out to be cracked. The 251 is just something I happen to have handy that is another possible option. I knew it ran good,and the guy that owned the 51 DeSoto it was in decided to part the car out,knows I am a fan of flat 6's,and owes me a couple of favors,so he called me on the phone and asked me if I wanted to buy the engine for 200 bucks. How could I NOT want a good running 251 for 200 bucks? For one thing,the original flat 6 in my 33 Dodge 4dr is worn out,and the 251 DeSoto would make a fine replacement engine to get it on the road. I may very well be wrong,but I think the 54 and later auto-trans will bolt right to the 51 251 with no problems. Right now the 55 230,auto trans,shift lever,driveshaft,and auto trans geared rear end are conveniently stored securely in the 55 Plymouth body and chassis,and I can't think of a better place to store them until I need them. Not much chance of anything getting misplaced or mixed up with other stuff there.
  21. Please Help Me with My 1950 Windsor

    I am guessing/hoping a 55-59 Mopar automatic transmission will work. I bought a 55 Plymouth parts car last summer than has a 230 and a two speed automatic with the shift lever in the dashboard in case I need it for my 42 Dodge coupe. I also have a good-running 251 DeSoto flat 6 that I might use if the 230 in the Plymouth turns out to be cracked or I can't use it for some other reason. I am ASSUMING the 230 auto trans will bolt to the 251 engine if I have to go that route. Also try to buy the carb with the dashpot and the linkage from the firewall to the carb from the donor car if you can. I am not sure if the 51 semi-auto uses the same final gear ratio as the later model 2 or 3 speed autos or not. Maybe someone else can chip in on this that does know for a fact. If the gear ratio is different you will need to try to buy the original rear from the donor car,or the correct ring and pinion gear to install in your car so the speedometer works correctly. I am GUESSING a EARLY 50's Chrysler or DeSoto with the flat 6 and 2 speed auto PROBABLY uses the same gear ration as your 51 Chrysler with the semi-auto,but could be wrong. Find out BEFORE you buy so you can maybe buy it all in a package deal if you need it, and save some money. It is even possible the early hemi's with auto trans used the same ratio. If you buy one,do your damnedest to buy one complete with the dashboard controls and the most especially,the shift cable. Many/most seem to have been pulled from the cars in scrap yards that just cut the cable to pull the transmissions,and the shift cables are very hard to find and expensive. Also,measure how long your driveshaft is,and find out how long the driveshaft is on any possible donor cars in case you need to buy that,too. The 55-56 transmissions use the 2 speed auto with the chrome shift lever that sticks out of the dashboard,and if you can find one chances are it will be a lot cheaper than the later 3 speed versions that have the push-button controls on the dash. Due to lesser demand,not because the 2 speed is inferior or faulty. The VA has been wanting to amputate my left leg for 10 years or more because it keeps getting infected due to a botched operation at a VA hospital that killed the circulation,and one day if I live long enough,that is an argument they are going to win. Because of this I have been trying to plan ahead. If all this seems to be too complicated or too much work for you,you might want to consider selling your 51 and just buying a early 50's version that came from the factory with the 2 speed auto. The 53 and 54's probably sell for roughly the same amount as your 51,and even the 55 and 56's aren't that much more expensive unless you go for a convertible or stationwagon. The 2dr ht's will probably be a little more pricey,but if you can live with a 4dr sedan,you can probably sell yours for enough to buy one. Maybe someone else that knows more and doesn't have to do so much guessing will chime in to help you?
  22. Plymouth P28 with Holley

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Holley-1904-Glass-Bowl-1-Barrel-Carburetor-1960-61-Falcon-Comet/162939416187?epid=1583461570&hash=item25eff22e7b:g:hbIAAOSwGbhapCxH&vxp=mtr Most of the 1904's had the regular cast pot metal bowls,but a lot of them had glass bowls. Especially/maybe only the ones used on Fords.
  23. Plymouth P28 with Holley

    I don't know if this helps you or not,but they were also used on 215 and 223 cube 6 cylinder Fords from 1952 to the early 60's. BTW,got a spare float bowl you would care to sell? I have one with a chipped bowl.
  24. 1955 Dodge dump bed pickup

    How in the WORLD did a old 1 ton dumpbody truck manage to last this long without getting beaten all to hell? It's rare to see a unrestored 55 half-ton that looks as nice as that one did before it was repainted.
  25. I will sell most of it if the offers are right,but money doesn't make me sleep well. In fact,the opposite is true. If I have a bunch of cash floating around,it makes me nervous and I am wondering what I did wrong. What good is money if you don't spend it? On top of that my greatest fear in life is to wake up one day and not have anything to do. I tend to get into trouble when I get bored. And,I am NOT giving any of this stuff away. I must have had 10 cash offers on my 32 Ford coupe sitting as you see it in my shop in this photo, And the highest offer so far was $2500,IF I throw in the rebuilt 350 with the Dart 2 heads and dual quads,as well as the rebuilt Turbo 350 with the shift kit and high stall converter. The engine in the photo is a 283 junker I used as a blocking dummy to build motor mounts,the headers,the trans mount,and radiator mounts. I had the 6 carb intake sitting around the shop,so I just sat it on top for grins. I got the car to that point and then Agent Orange came by to pay a visit,and I sat on my ass dripping puss for the next few years and gaining weight. By the time I was healed up enough to take a chance on getting dirty,I was too fat to get in the damn thing,so there it sits. Once I am able to get in it,I will put license plates on it,drive it for a few months,and then put it up for sale. I can't keep them all,the money from selling the 32 will allow me to finish other projects. It will NOT get sold until I die or I drive it,though. The $2500 offer is more than any of the locals offered me for my FatBob Harley with ice blue over pearl paint. The last guy that looked at that told me I should give it to him "because at least I would ride it". At the time it even had tags on it and you could start it up and ride it cross-country if you wanted. I had to quit riding when my back and knees got so bad I couldn't count on being able to raise my leg high enough to get on it to get back home. The last two times I left home on it,it and I both came back home on a rollback,and the bike was in perfect condition. Other local offers were $1500 for my 33 Dodge sedan that is missing nothing but one side glass. I declined that gracious offer,also. This happens because all my life I have just given stuff away to people I knew that needed it when I no longer had any use for it. I gave away a 39 Ford deluxe coupe with a clear title and some restoration work done on it when I move to Colorado and couldn't take it with me. I knew a guy that had been telling me he wanted it to restore,so I just gave it to him because my father would have sold it for scrap,like he did my 38 Chrysler 4dr and my 40 Ford tudor. Guess what? I found out this guy sold it for scrap,too. Just before I went to VN I gave a 51 Ford Victoria away to a garage owner I had worked for as a kid. He knew I was going to VN combat duty,so he came by and gave me a sob story about how he would like to have the 51 to have a father and son project for him and his 14 year old son so the boy would have a old car to drive to school. I found out a few years ago that the boy knew nothing about the project,and the father sold the car to somebody else for $3500. In fact,I have let it be known to all the locals that NOTHING I sell will be sold to a local. When I get ready to sell,it will be advertised nationwide. I will put the Mopar stuff up for sale here first,and if it doesn't sell here it will go on ebay and Craigs List. If a local tries to buy it from ebay or Craigs List,I will sell it to someone else cheaper.