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Everything posted by knuckleharley

  1. Don,if something is borderline to start with,it doesn't take much to push it over the line. Could it be he deals with more humidity than you,or maybe even a different ethanol blend? One thing we all know for certain,this was sometimes a problem even when these cars were new,and were getting real gas with lead,so we are kinda fighting a problem the original engineers never even considered.
  2. I,for one,will be very interested in reading your report,
  3. Does anyone know what an acceptable temperature is for a 6 volt positive ground coil?
  4. Excellent point about the hot coil,Plymouthy,and one I hadn't even thought about! One possible solution to that MIGHT be to mount it on the firewall instead of the engine.
  5. Hard starts when hot are standard equipment with flathead engines,6 or 8. The only "solution" I ever discovered was to drink another cup of coffee and wait for it to cool down. Wrapping all the gas lines with heat resistant wrap might help some,though. AFATG,swapping out the underhood hard steel gas lines with rubber gas lines will probably help a lot,but make damn sure you are getting rubber lines rated for ethanol gas or buy a REALLY big fire extinguisher to take with you everywhere you go. I guess,if you wanted,if you could find a rubber gas line with the same ID as the OD of your gas line,you could use that as an outer insulator to keep heat away from the gas line and still have the security of a steel line. Never tried it because I just now thought of it,but I see no reason why it wouldn't help.
  6. I have discovered as I get older and more feeble that time is now more important to me than money,and I just don't have the patience to do something more than once. I have bought two new gas tanks for antique cars from Tanks,Inc,and both fit and worked like a dream. IIRC,they each cost around 230 bucks including shipping. When you consider how little 230 bucks buys these days and how valuable your remaining time is,my vote is to never screw with an old leaking or rusty gas tank. ESPECIALLY in this day of ethanol fuel that eats old gas tank sealers like acid. Just buy a new one and be done with it.
  7. Yup! Like a wise man once said, "They ain't making them anymore." Not to mention that 500 bucks is not much more than lunch money these days. I know a lot of people who are paying more than that in monthly payments on "nothing special" new cars or trucks.
  8. A 48x80 "shed"? Yeah,I would call that nice. Hope it is insulated if you plan on heating it in the winter in Mn.
  9. I am no expert on this since I have only done it maybe 5 or 6 times,but each time I have done it that was never a problem. I just changed the oil and started driving them. Drove one off and on for maybe 10 years before selling it to an idiot that pulled the flat V-8 and put a 350 in it "because that's what all the cool kids do." What pissed me off the most was he sold the good engine and trans for scrap. I used to call him names every time I saw him starting with "stupid" and going downhill from there,but haven't seen him in several years now. He must have died or moved away.
  10. I started doing it because I needed to unstick an engine that had been stuck for decades,and that was what I had to use at the time. Don't really care about the water and oil based thing. What I know for a fact is that brake fluid LOVES to weep,and I figure that if I can get it to weep past the corrosion the ATF can take over after that. What I do know for a fact is that it works.
  11. IMNSHO,you got a hell of a bargain on those wheels. I remember seeing used ones selling for more than that 20 years ago. As for the rest of it,yeah,that's how you get sucked in. Ask anyone.
  12. Why spend money you might not need to spend? For all you know,the engine will be fine once you get it unstuck and it fires a few times under compression and blows all the rust away/ There are many,many fluids and methods you can use to unstick a stuck engine,but MY favorite involves brake fluid and ATF. Mostly because it works,and like me,it is cheap. Pull the head and the side covers and use a plastic hammer to close all the valves that will close. Leave the side covers off for the time being. Fill each cylinder with a 50/50 mix of brake fluid and ATF,and then screw in one of those fancy auto parts store "valve hold closed devices" people screw into the heads of modern cars to hold the valves shut. Or be like me and break the porcelain off an old spark plug,tap the hole,and screw a air fitting in the plug so you can plug your air compressor to it. Let your compressor pump up whatever it will pump up,and just sit there and wait until you start hearing "blub,blub,blub" sounds coming from the engine base. Once you hear those sounds,you know your rings in that cylinder will be getting the brake fluid/atf lube they need,and then move on to the next one that has closed valves. You may have to repeat the air pressure trick in some cylinders,but no big deal. Just be patient and let the lube and the air pressure do your work for you. Once you have them all done,hook a battery to your engine and "bump" the starter a few times to break them all lose. Once they are all loose and the engine starts to spin over,refill all the cylinders with ATF and pressurize them again to make sure no rings are stuck and they are all oiled. This is the point where I like to drain all the oil out of the oil pan,and refill the engine with really cheap 20 or 30 wt engine oil. Even the modern 0-20 oil will work and won't harm a thing because all you are going to do with this new oil is spin the engine over with the starter until it builds oil pressure,and then you are going to drain it all out and refill it with the proper 30 wt non-detergent oil anyway. Good idea to clean the oil filter housing,too. Once you get it spinning over and building oil pressure,readjust the valves and try to start it. I have started stuck engines using this method that had been sitting for decades,and been able to drive them with no problems. Just don't get in a hurry and try to use brute force on the crankshaft bolt. Let the starter do the work with gentle "bumps" that shock the rust loose.
  13. That sure is a pretty green. I am tempted to ask what you had to pay for the wire wheels,but I am not sure my old heart could stand the shock.
  14. Smart man. Never awaken a sleeping bear.
  15. Just came in this afternoon. Serial number 003. If I can get past the cancer,I hope to put it in the dead stock 33 Dodge shown in the photos,and drive it around and enjoy the HELL out of it just like you see it in the photos. This was the type of car I used to see running around when I was a kid that you could buy and enjoy for 50 bucks because I had some hope of one day having 50 bucks. Had and still have practically zero interest in new cars,but I LOVED the hell out of stuff from the 30's and 40's. I will never win any prizes at car shows or runs with it,but you can bet there will be nobody there having more fun than me. Had a local guy ask me last year if I knew anybody interested in buying the good running 251 6 out of his 51 DeSoto for 250 bucks,so I snapped it up and it is now sitting on my garage floor next to the 33 Dodge. I also have dual carb aluminum intake and carbs for it. About the only piece I am missing that I can think of is a set of cast iron headers. so I can run duals. I prefer the sound of the cast iron over the tubular headers. Every time I think about this I want to stop what I am doing and do a little happy dance.
  16. I am only rated at 30 percent due to Agent Orange,which is weird since I worked running recon and various other missions along the Ho Chi Mimh Trail in 68 and 69,and was medevaced for the symptoms of Agent Orange in Nov of 69. Had huge infected sores all over my torso,and was put on a permanent physical profile that kept me from wearing a parachute harness or deploying on any more missions,which meant I had to leave Special Forces and serve out my last 6 months in the regular army. I could have re-enlisted and was even offered a promotion if I did,but I didn't care for spending the rest of my career as a babysitter for a bunch of privates being held against their will,so I got out. The VA turned me down on paying for my heart surgery and pacemaker,claiming I should have gotten permission in advance or had the surgery done at a VA hospital. Which is kinda hard to do when you are in the ER when they discover the problem,and they send you right up to surgery to try to keep you living. So far I haven't heard a whisper from them about the Lymphatic Cancer surgeries and treatment,but it's only been a couple of months,and that it the blink of an eye in time for the VA. After all,the bills aren't piling up on THEIR desks at home. Still,I don't see how they can avoid paying for it since time was of the essence and Lymphatic cancer is directly related to Agent Orange exposure.
  17. Guys,thanks for the concern. I have been out of contact because I now have stage 4 lymphatic cancer,and between visiting every doctor and hospital in the western world and the confusion from the chemo and other drugs,my normal state these days is one of confusion and tired. The good news is that I have lost 30+ lbs so far,and can now bend over again without blacking out. Which would be handy if I could remember why I was bending over. Taking chemo twice a month for 6 months,and the doc says they can kill it. No guarantees,but they seem confident. No big surprise since I was medievaced from VN in Dec of 69 with pus-filled sores all over my torso,and a permanent medical profile that got me removed from Special Forces and assigned to a non-SF and non-airborne assignment. I didn't like the regular army any more than the regular army liked me,so like a fool I got out and refused the medical discharge I was offered because I figured I would get better and be able to enlist again. I was wrong. Anyhow,I now have occasional days when I feel pretty good,and that's about the best than can be said for it other than the fact everybody tells me they can cure me of it.. Looks like it's going to be a long 6 months,though. Being in my 70's probably doesn't help. One Mopar question. I am having trouble getting in email contact with the Dodge Boys in Montana about a finned aluminum Edgy head I bought for a 251 Mopar flat 6. I received the 230 head I bought the same day a couple of months ago,but not the 251 head. Due to recent medical problems I mostly forgot about it and let it slip through the cracks. Now that I am a little better,I need to find out when/if I am ever going to receive the head. Anyone else getting any responses from them?
  18. MY only comment is you seem awfully defensive about this. If you have the right to think anything about it you want to think,so do others. Including people who disagree with you. Lighten up,Lucille!
  19. Depends. If your tires are more than a couple of years old and you have to pull and repack the wheel bearings to be on the safe side in addition to replacing the tires,it would be cheaper and safer to just rent a U-Haul trailer for a 1 way trip. Yeah,we all used to flat two old cars coast to coast in the 70's and earlier with no problems,but the tires back then weren't bombs waiting to explode.
  20. The only downside to industrial engines is they tend to have lower compression and VERY low rpm camshafts in them. By the time you mill the head/swap pistons to get more compression/power,and swap or have the cam reground,buy a gasket kit,etc,etc,etc,you would generally be better off buying a flat 6 from a late 50's Mopar if you can find one. The good news is that if you do find one,there is practically zero demand for them,so the price should be very reasonable.
  21. AFAIK,any flat 6 Plymouth or Dodge engine up to 1959,which I think was the last year of the flat 6.
  22. Welcome! A family heirloom! I look forward to seeing and hearing about it.
  23. I am guessing there might be one working the runway at the Minnesota airport these days.
  24. I have a 78 Camaro frame clip on my P-15,along with the engine,trans,and rear from the same car,and it rides,drives,and stops like a dream. It was already installed,if not finished,when I bought the car,so I had to finish the boxing and welding,and make trans mounts. I don't think I would do this to one with the original suspension,though. Maybe a brake upgrade,but IMNSHO there is nothing wrong with the way the stockers ride and drive. I bought the car with the frame clip because I got it cheap.
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