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knuckleharley

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Everything posted by knuckleharley

  1. Guys,the reality is the Powerflite is a good transmission,and as good as a torqueflite for it's purpose. If you want a fast car,you are going to be building a flat 6 218 or 230 40's or 50's Mopar anyway. These are fine cars to drive,but they ain't Max Wedge Valiants. For a car like a 50 Plymouth their advantage is if you find one,you can buy it cheaper than you can buy a 727 Torqueflite. Best bet is to buy a whole parts car so you can get all the linkages,driveshaft,rear end,shifter,etc,etc,etc,and sell off the parts you don't use to get your money back. If you are lucky,you might even get a good 230 with more horsepower at the same time. I bought a almost complete 55 Plymouth Savoy 4dr with a 230 missing the exhaust manifold,carb,radiator,and seats for 250 bucks,and it has the old torqueflite in it with the dash shift rod,driveshaft,rear end,and rebuildable engine. For all I know,the engine may even be good. The guy I bought it from claimed it ran good and he had planned to restore it,but ran into money problems and started parting it out. I know I will put a manifold and carb on it and start the engine to check it out after running a compression test when I get to the point where I need a engine for my 42 Dodge coupe. Stock 55 230's have a lot more power than stock 42 230's. I already sold the front bumper to a board member and got some of my money back,and there is bound to be somebody looking for a trunk lid,doors,fenders,and glasses. At a minimum I will break even while getting the parts I wanted and helping someone else find some parts they need,too. You can also bet I will be pulling that beautiful dashboard to hang on the wall of my shop before the body goes off to never-never land,too.
  2. Will it,or will it not bolt directly to the original engine with no modifications and no adapters of any kind? If he can score the driveshaft out of the donor car,even that will work if the wheelbase is the same.
  3. The charm is there IS no "retrofitting",and since there is next to zero demand,the stuff is cheap if you can find it. It's a simple bolt it together and go riding" deal. That's why people want to do it. Simple AND cheap.
  4. Another option for an emergency brake would be to just swap the complete rear brake assemblies including the backing plates and drums from a more modern car to your original rear end. That would be easier to do because you wouldn't have to remove and replace the rear end ,but would still leave you with gearing a lot lower than you would want for highway driving if your car car with a overdrive transmission. Either way you go,plan on pulling the drums to have them turned and to rebuild the brakes with new wheel cylinders and new brake shoes after turning the drums.
  5. knuckleharley

    1940 Chrysler Windsor Coupe brake conversion

    The good news is you found all these problems right now,and once you correct them and get your car back on the road it will drive like a new one,and your front end will be trouble-free for years. MUCH better to do this all at once while you have it apart than it is to keep pulling it apart to fix things one at a time.
  6. knuckleharley

    Automatic choke

    Chances are if it is in a box and a manual choke was installed,the manual choke was installed for a reason. If you want an automatic choke,you might want to look for a NOS one to install instead of putting the old one in a box on the carb. BTW,I would almost be willing to bet money there are excellent photos of your automatic choke and all it's installation and adjustment instructions in a Motors Manual that covers 1949-52 cars.
  7. knuckleharley

    1940 Dodge D14 Build Thread

    Of all the things you COULD be,"lucky" is the best of them all.
  8. knuckleharley

    Interesting photos I have run across.

    My family was from the Outer Banks of NC,and up until the 70's,if you wanted to go shopping for anything other than basic groceries,you had to go to Virginia Beach or Norfolk,Va. The quickest way to do this was drive up the beach. Most of the time that was ok,but you had to be REALLY careful after a big storm because the beach would change. You could be driving down it as easy as driving on a flat paved road,and hit a "washout" created by a rip tide,and fall into a hole big enough to swallow the whole car. What little sand was in the hole would be quicksand,so you had to get out quickly and if you were lucky,it happened close enough to a Coast Guard Station that you could run there and get back in time with a DUCK with a winch on it to winch it out of the hole. If you weren't,lucky,the car would basically disappear as the incoming tide would fill the hole with sand again. I grew up fishing haul nets off the beach,and used to see the roof of a 54 Chevrolet after a big storm would wash a lot of the sand away. A day or two later,it would be covered again, One of the worse things was to be riding along on what was normally a flat hard sand beach,and suddenly run into gravel beds uncovered by a storm. The minute you spotted that red gravel you started heading for the dune line as quick as you could get there because if you slowed down for anything,you would sink up to the chassis. The next high tide would usually bring sand back again to cover it up. I suspect this is what happened here because I can see gravel behind the car. I suspect what happened in this case was mom and dad lent the family Pontiac stationwagon to Junior,and Junior decided to go joy riding on the beach. I don't envy him having to explain to mom and dad what happened to the family wagon. I remember seeing a new El Dorado Convertible in the wash of the ocean one day,with both doors open,and the incoming tide just washing right through it as it took it out to sea. Every time a wave would hit it,it would rock and slide a little closer to deep water. The oddest thing was to see a new 4x4 Bronco of Blazer stuck in the wash of the ocean . Every time I saw one it ended up having dealer plates on it and was bought by a elderly couple that bought a 4 wheel drive "so we could enjoy driving up the beach.". Nobody bothered to tell them,and they never bothered to ask,how to put it into 4 wheel drive. They just assumed it happened automatically. It would embarrass them to see me hook a tow rope to my 2 wheel drive truck and pull them out of the ocean.
  9. knuckleharley

    Wider Stock-Looking Wheels 46 Special Deluxe

    You don't really have to remove the peg unless the wheels are chromed. I just more modern Ford or Mopar wheels on the older Mopars all the time. I just drill a hole between two of the lug bolt holes for the locator pin to "locate". The first time I did this was when I went to Georgia to buy a 55 DeSoto with the 291 hemi in it. I was told the car had wheels and tires on it good enough to roll on my trailer,but when I got there I discovered it was sitting in a goat pen,and the wheels has sank into the ground and were rusted too badly to use. Had to go to a local junkyard and buy 4 wheels and tires,but you know they had no wheels with locator pins,so I just drilled holes in the wheels for the pins. Now I don't even bother to look for Mopar wheels when putting rims on a yard queen to move it around. If the Mopar wheel is bad,I just put a more modern 4-1/2 bolt pattern wheel on it after drilling a locator hole. Quicker to do this than it is to jack up and remove a Mopar wheel from another car. But to answer your question,one method is to remove the centers from your original Mopar wheels,and then put them in rims that are wider. You can set your own backspacing this way to make sure you have the clearances you need. We used to do this to put bigger tires on cars or trucks we drove on the beaches and across the sand dunes where I grew up.
  10. knuckleharley

    Interesting photos I have run across.

    I am guessing that is the Rinomobile limo that was custom-built for John McLunatic.
  11. knuckleharley

    Started the teardown, and now the build up.

    OK,thanks. I already ran a search on ebay before I posted to you,and had no luck.
  12. knuckleharley

    Started the teardown, and now the build up.

    Do you have any links so I can buy a set for my 42?
  13. knuckleharley

    46 dodge exhaust manifold gasket replacement

    Another method to use is to just cut two blocks from soft wood with "legs" on them to fit semi-snugly over your vise,and then cut the top off flush with the tops of your vise jaws. Only takes a second to put them in or remove them,and they come in really handy for holding stuff firmly in your vise without scratching or damaging it.
  14. knuckleharley

    Exciting 1933 Dodge project!

    Well,I guess I was accidentally right about my 33 PD coupe using the same chassis as the PU,anyhow. I have no idea what model number my 33 Dodge 4dr sedan is. Guess I will have to check the tags and maybe measure the wheelbase.
  15. knuckleharley

    46 dodge exhaust manifold gasket replacement

    Next time start the engine and get it nice and hot before trying to break the studs/nuts loose. You are lucky you didn't wring one off. If it were me,I would not reuse the old studs and nuts. Use new ones and coat them with a heat-resistant sealer that will keep them from rusting and seizing in the block after running a tap in the mounting holes and blowing out any rust dust. Studs,nuts,and washers don't cost that much. Use new ones.
  16. knuckleharley

    Light em up

    Easiest way to find this out is to pull the bulbs and then look at the number of contacts on them,and the number of contacts inside where they go. If there is only one contact,it is a single purpose bulb and socket. Two contacts,and it is multiple purpose. You can easily tell if you have power to each contact by using a test light on each contact after turning the headlights on,and then turning the turn signals on and looking to see if your test light flashes when the point is held against either contact. You are going to have to get someone to step on the brake pedal to test the brake lights all the way to the rear,though. BTW,looks like you need to start looking for at least one new taillight lens. It's pretty cloudy.
  17. knuckleharley

    Want to get my steering box rebuilt

    I think that if possible,you should find someone else with a late 40's to early 50's car without power steering,have them drive your car,or both,and then make a decision. It may be working perfectly normal,but since you have never driven a car without modern suspension and power steering,you might think there is something wrong with your car. Even then I would try to find an alignment shop with experience lining up the front ends of 40's cars,and have them align it for you. There may be nothing wrong with your front suspension that an alignment and correct air pressure in your tires won't fix. BTW,if you car has radial tires on it,they will make the steering harder.
  18. knuckleharley

    Fuel Mixture Screw doesn't change the idle.

    Nope,didn't work. I like all my posts,and don't want all the others getting jealous because I didn't put a heart up with them.
  19. knuckleharley

    Fuel Mixture Screw doesn't change the idle.

    That was my understanding of the point you were making. I have no idea why that heart in blue is there. I have tried to delete it,and can't.
  20. knuckleharley

    Interesting photos I have run across.

    I sure would like to see a few more photos of that thing.
  21. knuckleharley

    48 Chrysler New Yorker starting issue

    People are so used to electric fuel pumps and FI these days they think something is wrong if a car doesn't start within seconds of turning the key. I have a 6 volt car at a restoration shop now having new rain gutters installed and rust holes welded up in the roof. Was driving it pretty much every day before it went in,and when the restoration shop owner,a guy I know that is in his 60's came here to get it with his son,I showed them that it had to be in neutral to start. Since I had driven it that morning,it started right up. He gets it in his shop and it sits for a week while he is working on it,and when he needs to move it,he thinks something is wrong because it doesn't start right away. Told me " I didn't want to because I was scared of a backfire and fire,but I had to use the choke and pump the hell out of it to get it to start!" No doubt while pumping the hell out of a bone dry carb before even turning the switch on. He had a regular commercial repair shop before getting into restorations,and most of the restorations he does is with cars from the mid-60's and newer. Even if they don't have FI,they still have automatic chokes and 12 volt batteries that spin the engines fast enough to pump fuel quickly. And I have a confession to make. If the car sits for a week or so without being driven,I catch myself pumping the hell out of a dry carb before spinning the engine over even though I KNOW it is a waste of time. I guess I should convert it over to 12 volt,but I really don't want to.
  22. knuckleharley

    The 4th Annual P-15 Picnic in the UK (pictures)

    A VERY nice display of 40's Mopars,but might I make a suggestion? Maybe you could change the picnic name to "P-15/D-24 Picnic",or even "40's Mopar Picnic"? You might draw cars from people that aren't club members that way.
  23. knuckleharley

    Synthetic oil

    I have discovered over the last couple of years that it is always possible to be old enough to forget pretty much everything.
  24. knuckleharley

    Fuel Mixture Screw doesn't change the idle.

    I doubt you are doing anything wrong. You are probably just overlooking something. What does the screw look like when you take it out? Are there grooves worn in the tip,or does the tip seem to be bent? Have you taken a straight piece of steel,plastic,etc,etc,etc that is close to the OD if the idle screw and stuck it in the hole to see how deep the hole is and then compared it to the length of your idle screw to make sure you don't have the wrong one? Can you try to take a flash photo of the idle screw seat in your carb to make sure it isn't damaged and that the hole is not deformed or partially blocked with trash of some sort? Could it be a throttle plate problem? Have you checked the bores in the throttle plate for burrs? Checked the throttle plate insert to make sure no air is seeping around it due to wear? As far as that goes,have you checked it to make sure the plates are the right size for the bore? These cars are old,and who knows who has switched what over the years? I once bought a car that had a trans that worked perfectly on the test drive,and then the trans started slipping after just a few miles of highway driving. Come to find out the previous owner had not inserted the speedometer cable in the rear of the trans for some reason,and had just wrapped the tailshaft with masking tape. I didn't discover this until I put the car on a lift. I still can't even begin to guess why he didn't just insert the speedo cable and bolt it down. I was right there. If all else fails,buy a old carb with the same parts number and rebuild it using your new parts and see if that solves the problem.
  25. knuckleharley

    Synthetic oil

    I use Mobile 1 15-40 diesel in pretty much everything,including my 06 LBZ diesel.
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