Jump to content


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Everything posted by knuckleharley

  1. Body work

    Plasma cutters are nice,but you can't always use them due to flammable fluids or material being close to where you have to cut. I prefer to err on the side of caution and use a jig saw or sawzall in places like that.
  2. new guy

    Maybe,but I have heard a lot of good reports about the WD-40 Rust Inhibitor,too. Before discovering Kroil,my standard "unstick stuff" product was a home mixture of regular WD-40 and ATF. Anything that wouldn't free up and turn using a breaker bar after sitting for an hour got the valves closed and 150 psi or so of air pressure to push the oil past the rings. I would just sit in a chair next to the car and drink coffee and read a book until I could hear the air making "glub,glub,glub" noises out of the base. I would then move on to the next cylinder and repeat until they all had ATF/WD-40 forced past the rings,and would then turn the engine over using a breaker bar on the balancer nut. The DeSoto hemi was/is a special challenge. I bought it off a prison guard in Georgia that had been called up in the reserves and sent to the Muddle East. The kids in his neighborhood knew he was a prison guard,and they knew he was gone,so one or more of them pulled the plugs and packed the cylinders full of that red Georgia clay. I discovered this when I went to squirt oil in the cylinders before trying to turn it over. No way was I going to try to spin the engine without pulling the heads and cleaning everything up first. Standard bore with no ridges,too! I am confident that once I put the heads back on and put pressure on each cylinder that it will free up. There were a few cylinders already allowing the Kroil to seep past the rings using nothing but the force of gravity.
  3. Body work

    I would only add a scroll/jig saw to that list for cutting curves and corners.
  4. Fuel pressure question

    Yes. Sounds like your carb may be sensitive to pressure,so it makes sense to be able to dial the fuel pressure to setting that works for you.
  5. Brakes

    If you do a search by parts number on the interweb,you can almost always buy brand new wheel cylinders for about the same price you would pay for a kit. Sometimes cheaper. New is ALWAYS better than rebuilt when it comes to wheel cylinders. Since it is so hard to find a old MC these days that hasn't already been honed a time or two,MY vote is to spend the bucks and buy a new one. Brake,tires,and suspension aren't areas where you want to cut corners. Buying a kit and doing it yourself is substantially cheaper than buying a new MC,though.
  6. Brakes

    I can't recommend any because I haven't personally bought and installed a dual-outlet master cylinder on a old Mopar. YET. I suspect that they are easy to find from outfits like Scare Bird and other Mopar suppliers,though. Shop around and see who offers the right combination of kit and price that suits you.
  7. 47 ply wont start

    Maybe. I quit using Champion spark plugs back in the early 70's over almost new plugs dying. Still won't buy one,or even put one in my lawn mower if you give it to me. For the MOST part spark plugs either fire or they don't,but I did have a 1 cylinder lawnmower engine drive me nuts once trying to get it to start. I was just about ready to take it to a lawnmower pro to get it fixed because it was getting fresh gas,and I could pull the plug and ground it and it would fire. I decided to try a new plug first to see what happened. It fired right up. Damn thing would spit fire all day out in the open,but the instant you put it under compression it would die. Once again,a Champion spark plug. I got it for free because the guy that gave it to me couldn't get it to start. I have no idea how that could be related to the engine starting after sitting out in the sun with the hood up,though. Your problem HAS to be related to a fuel supply problem. When it is sitting and cold have you tried taking the breather off the carb and manually moving the carb linkage to see if it is spitting fuel down the intake port? If not,your float needs to be adjusted by either bending the tin arm,or replacing it if it leaks. If it pumps fuel without the engine spinning over after sitting all night,the float is ok,and your problem is related to the choke. PLEASE note that this test MUST be done ONLY after the car sits overnight. You could have a very small leak in the float that would cause it to dump all the bowl gas down the intake overnight,but fill the float so slowly that once started in the morning the car will continue to start fine all day.
  8. 1947 Chrysler Windsor garage find finished

    The good news is they are available. That's where the good news ends.
  9. Goodbye and Thank you!

    Near as I can tell,owning a car isn't an actual requirement to read or post here,so why leave?
  10. 1947 Chrysler Windsor garage find finished

    Holy crap! Finding a late 40's Chrysler that complete and with chrome that nice was a major score!
  11. new guy

    Sadly,it still sits on my shop floor,stuck and temporarily abandoned . Other stuff came up that had to be done NOW,and it just got abandoned until I have time to fool with it. Next time I mess with it,I will have the heads back on it,and will be using 150 or so lbs of air pressure to "push" the Kroil past the rings.
  12. Does fluid drive create oil pressure issues?

    So,I have a Hy Drive trans in my 55 Plymouth parts car? Does this mean I would have trouble bolting a standard trans bellhousing to the block,and using a manual floor shift transmission if I use this engine in my 42 Dodge?
  13. Does fluid drive create oil pressure issues?

    The only thing that really surprises me anymore is not having to use my GPS to get back home from the grocery store.
  14. Does fluid drive create oil pressure issues?

    SO.....since no one mentions the 25 inch engines,is it safe to assume this is not a problem with any of them? The "Hy-Drive" sounds like a Plymouth name to me for some reason. What cars were they in,and what years? If you adapt a fluid drive/hy drive trans to a 25 inch block,will there be any problems? I have a 51 DeSoto engine with some sort of auto-trans that I bought,so I am interested in hearing about this.
  15. wet blasting

    I wonder how that special rust inhibitor plays with primer and other paint,and what steps you have to go through to remove it completely in order to be able to paint the metal. There ain't no such thing as a free ride.
  16. 1947 Chrysler modern rim substitutions?

    Maybe consider giving Summit Racing a call before calling Goodyear. They never jerk anybody around,and offer free shipping on any purchase over 100 bucks. I don't like the way nylon tires ride or handle,so I always buy radials. Going to pretty much be stuck with nylon tires when I re-tire my 31 Plymouth,though. Tempted to put 15 inch rims and radials on it,and save the spoked wheels and nylon tires for the next owner so he can put them back on if he wants.
  17. 1947 Chrysler modern rim substitutions?

    15 X 5? You must be running some really skinny tires. If/when I update,I will be looking for 6 or 6.5 rims to better fit 215 or 225 tires.
  18. 1947 Chrysler modern rim substitutions?

    True,but by the time you find and buy them,pay someone to take off the old cars,sandblast them,and then paint them, it might have been cheaper to have gone ahead and bought new powder-coated ones you KNOW aren't bent to start with. There is no question it would be quicker.
  19. 1940 Dodge D14 Build Thread

    That might work ok with riveted brake shoes,but wouldn't the degreasers dissolve the glue used to bond it together? Granted,that has to be some SERIOUS glue to be able to withstand the heat and pressures of braking.
  20. 1947 Chrysler modern rim substitutions?

  21. Dim instrument lights

    They don't ground to the dash?
  22. Steering Arm ID

    I am fairly certain it fits a 1958 Whatchamacallit,but not sure what model.
  23. 1947 Chrysler modern rim substitutions?

    Maybe bad news on those rims. I called Summit Racing to order 4 for my 51,and the guy I talked to seemed to think,but wasn't sure,that they were for front wheel drive cars,and the offset would be too much for a old car. You might want to call or email Dorman to see if they have any stock replacement wheels that will work. I did find Vintique wheels for prices ranging from 61 to 84 bucks that were direct factory repo's of the non-Mopar wheels I want. They 61 dollar ones are "Smoothies" that only accept full-wheel hubcaps or the hubcaps with a lip that fit inside the recess. The 84 buck wheels have the stock factory "bumps" on them so you can run poverty hubcaps or baby moons. The also sell repop Mopar wheels from the 60's to the 80's for both regular passenger cars as well as cop cars. They are powder coated a gloss black. Coker also sells repop steel wheel,but his are 105 bucks. His are powder coated with a gloss black. The cheaper wheels above are primed with epoxy paint in gray. Since I already bought the paint and the sand for my sandblaster to blast and paint the old wheels,I'm going to go that route. I'd definitely buy a set of 4 that are new and powder coated for 84 bucks each before I would spend all that money on epoxy paint,sand,and spend all the time necessary to blast and paint the old ones,though. Hoping to blast and prime them with epoxy primer tomorrow,and then topcoat them on Tuesday.