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Everything posted by knuckleharley

  1. 1951 Suburban

    No,but that doesn't mean someone didn't put a 4cyl in it. I have a cousin that put a 4cyl diesel in a 51 Plymouth once. He had the Plymouth and he had the diesel,so he put them together and went riding. Call or email the seller and ask him.
  2. What everyone else has said,and once you get it to where it will start and idle easily,the best way to get rid of the carbon is to let the engine warm up to normal operating temperature,then manually control the throttle while slowly DRIBBLING (NOT "pouring") a little bit of water down the carb throat a little bit at a time. Be prepared for loud,rude noises,as well as clouds of noxious black smoke as the carbon is blown out of the engine,the exhaust manifold,and even the muffler and tailpipe. Once the clouds of smoke stop,stop dribbling the water, It is a REALLY good idea to do this outside,not in your garage. Keep in mind that if your muffler is very old and thin from rust,you might have to end up buying a new muffler,but you were going to have to do that soon anyway,so no big loss. Also,pull your plugs and check the electrodes when done. This can be hard on electrodes.
  3. 1950 Spitfire problems

    Good for you! Now,don't forget to tell locals you meet that have old cars about Steve''s Auto Repair,and the excellent work he did for you. Too many people keep too quiet about "their" mechanics like it is a secret that needs to be guarded. The opposite is true. These people are like any other businessmen. To stay in business they need customers. To keep the old car hobby going with new generations off old car buffs that have no experience or knowledge of old car mechanicals,we need people like Steve. Win/win for everyone. It won't hurt your future dealings with Steve if you tell them to make sure they tell him that "Bubba/whatever from Clarksville sent me here.",either.
  4. 1950 Water pump removal/installation

    Yes. You can trust the factory shop manual and Motors Automobile Repair Manuals. If they tell you something is that simple,it is that simple. My only additional suggestions would be to tape a piece of cardboard cut to the size of the radiator core to the radiator to keep from accidentally damaging any fins accidentally, as well as to save the skin on your hands. Old radiator cores are nasty things,and they create nasty,infected cuts that make your hands sore. The next thing to do is remove the fan before you loosen the fan belt or do anything else. Putting the fan back on should be the next to last thing you do,and removing the cardboard should be the last thing you do. Don't ask me how I know this.
  5. California & The Internal Combustion Engine

    The uber rich,like Buffett and Gates aren't really affected by taxes because they have most of their money in tax shelters. Warren Bubbette has even whined about how his personal secretary pays more taxes than he does as a way to promote leftist "equality",yet it never seems to have occurred to him to pay her more money and to enroll her in one of his tax dodges. It's ALWAYS the middle classes that pay the majority of the taxes because the rich have tax shelters like trust funds,and the poor don't make enough money to pay taxes. They also don't have enough money to move to better themselves.
  6. Need 6v help

    And standard 6 volt coil,condenser,and point sets will work just fine as long as none of it was made in China. You can usually buy this stuff in any auto parts store,but any but NAPA are likely to have to order it after you convince there there is such a thing as 6 volt coils. Tractor dealers are also a source for 6 volt coils,condensers, and batteries,and MIGHT even have the points
  7. Electronic distributor

    "You guys are scaring me. I put a Pertronix system in my 47 DeSoto; so far, so good. But any moment, when we're far from home... When I installed the Pertronix system, I added a junction block to the inside fender, near the distributor, and I drew diagrams of how to connect the points-type ignition vs. the Pertronix system. Fine, but I dread having to redo the everything along the side of the road, including setting the timing. Maybe I'll just buy an extra Pertronix Ignitor." The ugly reality of owning and driving a old car is that when it breaks down,and ALL cars will eventually break down,you can't just trot over to any auto parts store and buy the parts you need to get it running again. The same is true with a old car modified with modern after-market mechanical and electrical parts. That's why you keep some spare parts in your trunk. Even if for some reason you can replace the faulty stuff yourself where you break down,if you are away from home it's a lot cheaper to pay someone to fix it for you than it is to hire a rollback to haul it home. You have to have the parts before you can hire someone to install them,though. Most people keep the old parts they take off when updating something,and re-installing them is simple. Since you already own them,they are pretty cheap,too. I'm one of those people who carries a new fuel pump in my trunk,still in the box the manufacturer shipped it in. I also carry a new fuel filter,distributor cap,points,condenser,rotor,and a couple of spare plug wires. You can't carry everything,but if you can replace the fuel delivery system and the ignition,that covers most of what goes wrong on the road. In your case,carry a spare ignitor,but check for shorts that may have burnt out the old one before you install the new one.
  8. T142 engine

    You could use a mid-60's non-booster dual master cylinder. I had a 68 Fairlane with one,and have seen GM's of that era with dual reservoir master cylinder made for disc brakes up front. Or even one made for drums up front if you are just looking for the safety of a dual reservoir system and want to keep your front drums.
  9. casting number 668755-5 Mopar?

    With just one lever,wouldn't it be more of a transfer case than an actual transmission? Maybe something made for 1 ton and larger trucks?
  10. That would be a hell of a buy for someone who can do the floor and rocker repairs himself. Not so sure it would be much of a buy if you had to pay someone else to do it,though. Especially not when you have to add the price of new upholstery.
  11. Thoughts About Upgrading To Radial Tires...Photos?

    If the whitewall width is a major concern for you,look for a set of 4 "Porta Walls". They fit between the rim and the time,and look like whitewall tires. I am fairly certain you can find them in a 4 inch width,but will probably have to do a little searching.
  12. Electronic distributor

    Of course. It was made to work with that engine,wasn't it? I am pretty sure you will have to use the original coil and ballast resistor with the distributor,though. Or direct replacements.
  13. Running without inner/outer fenders

    What's wrong with a sheet metal screw backed by a big washer,and mounting it on the firewall? Small hole easy to fill and paint over later on,or just an existing hole with a threaded bolt and washers.
  14. Electronic distributor

    Yes,unless there was something wrong with his old distributor or coil.
  15. IMHO,that car is a steal for 500 bucks.
  16. 1940 Dodge D14 Build Thread

    You won't notice any real power difference between a 218 and a 230 when driving normally. The modifications mean nothing unless you are accelerating or driving at higher than normal speeds. They just look cool,and maybe help your gas mileage a little because the engine is more effecient.
  17. Head Gasket Replacement

    You already have the head off and have to replace the head gasket,so IMHO,it doesn't make any sense to NOT lap the valves. The cost is minuscule ,and when you button it back up you will know you can probably drive the car for years and not have to worry about this again.. You will need a valve spring compressor,a "spinner" with rubber suction cups to spin the valve,a magnet on a expandable rod like a radio antenna to catch any wayward valve keepers,valve-lapping compound,and Dykem lay-out blue. If you want to get anal about it,a magnetic dial indicator base and a dial indicator so you can check the valve springs before you take them out by rotating the engine by hand and seeing how high they get raised. Now would be the perfect time to replace any weak valve springs. You can probably just buy a whole stet of valve springs cheaper than the magnetic base and the dial indicator,but they are useful for other things also,and once you have them they are paid for and don't eat anything. You will also need an exhaust manifold gasket. And maybe most important,a factory service manual and/or a Motors Automobile Repair Manual that covers your year car. Spend a day or two reading what both have to tell you about doing valve jobs,and let it sink in a little before spending any money. Below is a link to lave lapping tools for sale. The simple wooden ones with rubber suction cups are plenty good for occasional jobs,and cheap. https://www.google.com/search?q=valve+lapping+tools+for+sale&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8 The machinist layout dye and the valve lapping compound can be bought at your local auto parts store that sells the tools if you decide to buy the tools on-line,but now might be a good time to become known to the local parts guys at your local NAPA store. Unlike most auto parts stores these days,the guys at a NAPA store counter usually know enough to give you advise if you get stuck,and might be able to help you out in other ways in the future. No retail web site in another state is going to offer those services on a personal level. Don't knock the value of personal contacts.
  18. Head Gasket Replacement

    Lap the old valves. Any that won't clean up need to be replaced. No need to spend money you don't have to spend.
  19. 1950 Spitfire problems

    After you pull the head the engine will have zero compression,and you can easily turn it over using the fan while watching to see the valves open and close. Any that remain open or don't close all the way are obviously stuck. Any that open but don't close all the way are probably bent. Since it ran great when you first started driving it,this seems unlikely to me. My money is still on ignition/coil and/or gasoline problems.
  20. 1950 Spitfire problems

    It's been my experience both times I had this problem is that when you have an intake leak you can hear it whistle.
  21. 1950 Spitfire problems

    If it were me,I think I would sign up for a night basic auto mechanic course at a local community college. I would definitely be looking for a new mechanic. Just telling you the compression in 3 cylinders is bad without telling you the numbers and the possible reasons tells me he didn't really want to fool with it and was trying to scare you away by telling you the engine needs to be rebuilt. The first thing you need to do is go to Amazon or Ebay and buy a Motors Automobile Repair Manual that covers 1950 cars,and go to the basic repairs section to learn how to do compression checks and to check and repair ignitions. They not only tell you how to do things like this in plain language you can understand,they also provide a lot of really clear photos to show you and tell you the tools you need to do the work if they are specialized tools. Best money you will ever spend on your car. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2055119.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H1.Xmotors+auto+repair+manual+1950.TRS0&_nkw=motors+auto+repair+manual+1950&_sacat=0 https://www.amazon.com/MoToRs-Repair-Manual-Harold-Blanchard/dp/B000P1TW4E
  22. Need 6v help

    Sounds like either the coil or the points to me. Most likely the coil. "Point bounce" is more common in engines that turn a lot more RPM's than your flat 6 turns. Since it is a good idea to carry a spare coil,points,condenser,and distributor cap in the trunk anyhow,and a HELL of a lot cheaper than paying a roll-back to carry you home,why not just buy all that stuff new and try it one at a time until the problem goes away,starting with the coil? Coils crack and get burnt out from getting too hot from bad grounds,but it's the cracked ones that operate fine to start an engine and then operate at low RPM's. Once they get hot and the demand on this climbs from higher RPM the crack widens from the heat and you lose fire.
  23. Head Gasket Replacement

    Get it running again,get it up to normal operating temperature,and then take something like a soda bottle where you can cover the opening with your thumb,fill it part way with tap water,and slowing dribble,and I DO mean "dribble",as in "NOT POUR" a few drops of water into the carb at a time while you operate the accelerator with your hand. You will get a "feel" for it as you do it. You will know you are done when it quits throwing out a cloud of dark smoke from the tailpipe. That will be your carbon disappearing. White smoke is the water. Black smoke is the carbon. Your engine doesn't appear to be that coked up,but you will see more than you expect coming out the tailpipe because there will probably be a certain amount of backfiring that will also clean out the exhaust manifold,exhaust pipe,muffler,and tailpipe. I also recommend pulling your plugs after you have done this and take a look at the electrodes. Sometimes they can suffer a bit from this process because they will be full of carbon too,when you start doing this,and they are at ground zero of the explosions and the thinnest metal involved. If they are questionable,replace them.
  24. Head Gasket Replacement

    Take the side covers off so you can see what you are doing and to make sure there isn't something you can't see that is causing the problem. Turn the engine by hand until you can see that the stuck valve should be closed,but isn't. Use some sort of penetrating oil (Kroil is good) in a squirt can to try to lube the valve stem at the top of the engine as well as through the valve inspection/adjustment ports,and then take a hammer with plastic faces and gently tap on top of the valve to get it to seat. Patience is more of a key word than "brute force" here. Lube the valve stem again once it bottoms,and then spin the engine over by hand to open it again. If it closes on it's own,lube it up again and spin it over several times to make sure it doesn't stick again. Lube up all the other valve stems while you are at it. If they weren't all dry,none of them would have been stuck. Finally,consider hand-lapping them all while you are at it to bring your compression readings up. You already have the head and the side covers off,so why not? You can do it using one of those sticks with the suction cups on them to spin the valves,and something like Dykem Lay-Out Blue like machinists use so you can visually see when each valve is making full contact with the seat,but the lay-out dye and the stick with the rubber suction cups are cheap,so it's no big deal. You might want to buy a magnet on a telescoping handle to make it easier to deal with the valve keepers,but you can use that on a bunch of stuff,so it's not a "special" tool.
  25. Put A Lift Kit Under My '53 Today

    Dollies are nice as long as you get the good ones. I have two sets of the cheaper ones,and they flat suck. One set is under my 33 Dodge sedan,and it literally takes two men to even push the car forward or backwards,never mind side to side. Seems like the wheels were drilled off-center. I use the worse set to move engines around. They roll ok with just one of them having weight on it,but when you put 4 under a car they seem to work against each other. BTW,I'm not what I used to be,especially when it comes to flexibility,but I have no trouble picking up 200 lbs and walking across the shop floor with it,so it's not like I am feeble. The moral to this story is if you buy dollies,do NOT buy the cheaper ones sold by Northern Hydraulics,Harbor Freight,etc,etc,etc. The 3rd set of 4 I bought were the hydraulic pump-jack wheel dollies by Eastwood. These work like a dream. Yeah,they were expensive,but I can no longer bend over and work,and at the time I bought them my knees wouldn't bend,so I needed something I could roll over to whatever I wanted to move,and then just pump them up to move the car and then lower them so the car wheels would be on the floor again. Truth to tell,if you have 3 or 4 cars you sometimes need to move around,buying one pair of these is cheaper than buying 3 or 4 sets of even the crap ones that don't roll worth a damn If you only have one car to move around,do yourself a favor and step up a grade of two when you buy the standard dollies. After all,what good are they if you have to get someone to come over to help you move the car sitting on the dollies. No,I do NOT work for or have stock in Eastwood.