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knuckleharley last won the day on December 27 2017

knuckleharley had the most liked content!


About knuckleharley

  • Rank
    Guru, have been a long time contributor

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  • Gender
  • Location
    North Carolina
  • Interests
    Old anything mechanical,history,travel,guns,military
  • My Project Cars
    33 Plymouth coupe,33 Dodge 4dr,37 Dodge 4x4 truck,42 Dodge coupe,48 Plymouth coupe,49 Chrysler Windsor coupe.

    Have others,but they aren't Mopar. 32 Ford 5 window coupe,34 Ford pu,53 Ford Club Coupe with a FE,stock 38 Ford Standard tudor humpback sedan.

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  • Location
    North Carolina
  • Interests
    old cars,truck,tools,motorcycles

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1,726 profile views
  1. D24 Original front and rear track.

    I am eaten alive with envy! That sure is a pretty car!
  2. Interesting photos I have run across.

    My 1939 IHC pu is all original mechanically,and has several coats of paint on it. The most recent being baby blue latex applies with a roller and brush,and without sanding it first. That paint job is about 15 years old now. Original glasses that are cracked and yellow. Farmer "repairs" to the fender cracks that seem to have been done with a arc welder,and in one place,with a 1/8 inch thick piece of steel strap that was bolted to the fender before being welded. It probably gets more attention than anything else I own. Every time I park it somewhere,there are people standing around it taking photos with their cell phones when I come back to it. I am sure part of that is due to the originality and the "farmer repairs",but another part of it is due to the art deco design of the D-2's. They are just pretty trucks. My plans are to sand it down to the bare metal and then prime and paint it with Rust-O-leum primer and enamel paint,using a better quality paint roller and spray cans. Rust-o-leum has an enamel green that is a pretty close,if not exact,shade of the original green used on most of them,and with a yellow enamel beltline. I will paint it a pale blue instead if I can find a suitable aint,but the main idea is to preserve it and drive it. All this will probably kill most of the "passerby interest" in the truck because it won't be so much of a "survivor truck" after that. I don't really care. I use it to haul trash and drive locally for pleasure,and my goal is to keep it preserved to the point that when I die it will attract the interest of someone who might want to restore it,instead of being sold for scrap or to a hot rodder. The engine number,chassis number,and cab number all match,so IMHO it would be a shame to change anything. BTW,it is no sacrifice to keep it mechanically original. It rides and drives as good as a modern pu,and it has no trouble going down the road at 60 MPH. From a driving and comfort standpoint,it's like driving a 60's pickup. Already bought new glasses for it. The door glasses were cracked when I bought it,and didn't survive the trailer ride from ND to NC. They just shook themselves into pieces. I also have an original IHC 2 piece AM radio that has been rebuilt that I plan to put in it. For air-conditioning,the windshield frame cranks out,and it also has a vacuum-operated fan mounted on the dash. The only downside to owning this truck is occasionally some idiot will use the words "rat rod" in my presence,and I admit to getting a little dizzy for a moment before reminding myself they just don't know any better.
  3. 52 ply pics

    I like the fact that the owner bothered to build up a raised gravel bed for it to sit on so it would never be sitting in water.
  4. steering gear for 1948 ply

    Keeping your original column and steering wheel is not a problem. Just cut your column and shaft off inside the engine compartment and use one or more of the U-Joint connectors to connect your old steering shaft to the steering shaft on the new steering box or rack and pinion setup.
  5. steering gear for 1948 ply

    Good luck to you,but I think you are fighting gravity. Especially with a poly engine. They are pretty wide.
  6. That looks like a deal to me if it has a title and the motor turns over. I'd sure like to have the intake and exhaust setup off of it. Maybe even the head.
  7. 52 ply pics

    I would be more worried about the tires turning than not holding air. 40 years is a looong time for something to sit without the brake drums rusting up. Sitting on a hill in Idaho is a big plus in your favor,but still...... Maybe you could get up there with a jack and jack it up enough to see if each wheel spins before you make too many plans to tow it anywhere? BTW,it is MUCH easier to break one lose with the tire still bolted to the hub. Leverage and all that sorta stuff. The good news is that freeing up the front drums is usually pretty easy if it doesn't spin when you try to spin the tires. IF they are rusted shut take some dykes and just cut the heads off the brake shoe locator clips on the rear of the backing plates,loosen the castle nut holding the brake drum to the spindle,and whack face and outside of the brake drum with a BFH. Hammer weight is more important than impact velocity. The idea is to create vibrations that will allow the shoes to free themselves from the drum. Once the drums move off the seat a little,you can spray some penetrate on the brake shoes from behind,tap them back on again,then try to pull them off again. The first car I got to drive around on the sand dunes and the beach when I was a kid was a 52 Plymouth,but I can't remember if the rear brake drums are mounted on the trapered axles with a key like on the earlier models,or if they are just held on with bolts. If they are a press fit on a tapered axle with a key,make sure you take the right puller with you because you are going to have to work to pull them. Probably the best/easiest way if the brake drums are rusted shut is to just winch it up on a trailer and take it to where you can work on it inside. I've done this several times. Take a couple of quarts of ATF with you and use them to lube the ramps,trailer floor,and even the tire bottoms once they get out of the dirt,and it will load and unload pretty easily. No need to work hard out in the cold and the wind if you don't have to.
  8. 52 ply pics

    I'm looking forward to spring because it's not winter.
  9. P15 Brake Pedal Draft Seal (Grommet?)

    I would be afraid of getting the rubber too hot and stretching it too much,so that it didn't seal like it is supposed to seal.
  10. Cheap 218 in Idaho

    Of course she is. Just tell her you are taking her to spend a day at a spa. Just be aware there might be some negative consequences arise as a result.
  11. Saw this on FB. MOPAR option or custom?

  12. Started the teardown, and now the build up.

    I really liked the green with the base color,but I really like green. I do have to admit that the gold sure does "pop" a whole lot better than the green stripes. I could barely see them,but the gold stripes really stand out. BTW,did you bake the paint on those wheels,or use hardener with the paint?
  13. Cheap 218 in Idaho

    Is that yours? It sure looks like a solid original truck.
  14. Cheap 218 in Idaho

    In that case,I am thinking this engine and transmission are the buy of the century for someone restoring an original truck that came with fluid drive. With a BIN price of 400 bucks,the engine alone is a bargain.
  15. Cheap 218 in Idaho

    I didn't even look. The ad said it came from a pu so I assumed it was a manual shift.