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knuckleharley

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Everything posted by knuckleharley

  1. Depends on where you live. I got a new clean title for a 35 Chev pu I bought by bringing the data tag in and letting the DMV clerk run a search. It hadn't been registered or had any taxes paid on it for over 5 years,so I walked out of the DMV that day with a new title in hand. It is true that some states want to make you just through flaming circus hoops to get a new title,though. Never made any sense to me because they are denying the state treasury the fees and taxes that would be paid,but they do it anyhow.
  2. Not true. Things like rust repair and paint are mostly labor. We have all seen cars as rough,or rougher than yours with all the bodywork done and a nice coat of paint to protect them in the future. Hell,my 37 Dodge 1.5 ton pu truck even had the chassis rusted in half,and the only body part that didn't need patch panels was the hood and grille shell. It now has a 96 Dodge half-ton 4x4 chassis under it,complete with a crate 318,aod,ps,and pb. The body work is in process now,and it will look as good as anyone eles's by the time it gets back on the road. I honestly had no freaking idea it would be so rusty under the paint the guy I bought it from had sprayed over rust and body plastic,or I would have never bought it in the first place. ALL rust is being sanded or cut away and replaced with new patch panels. The ONLY plastic going on the truck is to smooth out the grind marks from the welding. As you can see from the new unfinished patch panels along the bottom of the cab,the whole damn bottom of the cab looked like Swiss Cheese. Not to mention the top of the cab that originally had a siren and light mounted because it was originally a pumper truck for a fire department,and the holes "repaired" with body plastic without even sanding the rust away. Even the running boards were so rusty it was easier to fab new ones than repair the old ones. BTW,it was sitting on a 1972 Ford F-250 4X4 chassis when I bought it. I drove it for 3 or 4 years that way before it started getting so bad I had to blow it apart to save it. That was when I discovered how thin the chassis was and how crappy the body "repairs" made by the previous owner were. I found a deal on the rolling Dodge chassis,so I bought it. Happier with a Dodge chassis under it,anyway,and unlike the Ford chassis,this one has ps,pb,and an auto transmission. The most important thing to me is is the knowledge that it will look so good that no future owner would ever consider crushing it. Hell,chances are it will never spend a night outside again. Attached is a file of the mock-up to make sure everything fits right before the body work and final assembly.
  3. Seems to me you are a talented fabricatior/mechanic.
  4. BTW,once you pull the front clip,the length of the legs and boom on the engine hoists can be shortened. You won't have to lift so high to pull the engine. Best of all,once you do pull the engine,you can lay a couple of 2x6's across the boom legs and just let the engine down on them and then push it out of your way. You will,of course,need an engine stand once you start working on the engine,but you can buy that later.
  5. Go to your local Harbor Freight store and look over their selection. Last time I was in one,they had several different sizes,and all were priced reasonably.
  6. MY personal rule number 1 to live by is "If it ain't broke,don't fix it."
  7. Have you ever tried to immediately open the bleed screw after stopping? If you have,and the pedal goes back down to the normal position,you need a new master cylinder. Sounds to me like you may have a burr or some trash on the piston in your master cylinder,and that is causing it to stick.
  8. I actually made the payments on the new Toyota I bought when I got back from VN. Ran Bracket at Cumberland Raceway,and for all practical purpuses,dialed in at infinity. Car had a stone stock 4 cylinder and auto trans,and I just sat at the red light with it in drive and let it shift itself. What was really funny was running against the A Stock (and I am using the word "stock" loosely) in Bracket Eliminator class at the end of the day. I would almost be at the traps before their light turned green,and there would be a great cloud of tire smoke,and they would blow by me so fast it would almost rock the Toyota. They almost always ran too fast and got eliminated,too. The first time I dragged there was with a stock 428 Cobra Jet Torino. Had to run against dealer cars that were hauled in on rollbacks,and had radio and heater deletes. They may have been stock in some universe,but it wasn't the one I lived in.
  9. Those people are seriously deranged. Then again,once you hit the ice you just slide around with nothing to hit. You just have to watch out for the other riders on the track and their seriously sharp studded tires. The good news is you don't have to worry about them purposly running over you because it would slow them down.
  10. I don't know you,your deceased friend,or his wife,but I want to thank you for being a genuine friend. Folks like you are hard to find these days.
  11. Never had much desire for circle track racing in cars,but you ain't lived until you have gone flat-track racing on a motorcycle! If you think a 4 wheel drift is a blast in a car,imagine a 2 wheel drift around a dirt track corner,and then pulling a wheelie to straighten up before you slide into the wall. Oh,my! VN wasn't that exciting,and I ran recon.
  12. IIRC,there is a company called "The Dodge Boys" (and I am almost certainly wrong about the name) from the northwest (Montana?) that build and sell speed equipment for flathead Mopars. They have a 28 or 29 Dodge roadster they built to run at Bonneville,and their goal is to drive it into the 200 MPH Club at Bonneville with a 4 cylinder Dodge flathead engine. I THINK they have made runs in the 180 mph category already,and are still working on getting more power,but my memory sucks these days. Anyhow,this IS a real company that really does offer unique speed equipment for ancient Mopars. Even flat 4 Mopars. Ok,found it! Home (moparmontana.com) THESE are the guys you need to talk to. Since I bought an Edgy head from them for the flat 6 DeSoto engine I am putting in my 42 Dodge coupe and another Edgy head for the 230 flat 6 engine I am planning on putting in my 33 Dodge 4 door,you would think I would have had their home page bookmarked,but for some reason I didn't. Oh,well. Thank you for inspiring me to look them up before I completely forgot about them. BTW,I apologize for my snarky first response. For some reason I was thinking you wanted to go circle track dirt racing with your old Mopar,and that ALWAYS leads to wrecks and total destructions.
  13. Shoot myself for destroying a rare antique car?
  14. Check the oil to see if it looks thinner than usual and/or smells of gas BEFORE you try to start the car again. If either is the case,I would suggest the first thing you do is pull your oil pan and thorougly clean it before putting it back on and filling it with oil. The second thing I would do would be to check the carb to make sure it is shutting off the fuel when the engine isn't running. You can best do this with the carb held in a vise and a bucket under it to catch any gas. Finally,have you modified the fuel system with an electric fuel pump? If so,how much PSI does it put out,and is it adjustable?
  15. Yes,the MC is German. Either a BMW,or the cheaper,less flashy version,the Zundapp. I suspect this one is a Zundapp.
  16. I didn't even know there was such a thing as a overdrive in 1938 Chrysler Royales.
  17. You might also try warming the engine up to normal temps before trying to back it out.
  18. Yeah,but just imagine all the years of enjoyment you are going to get out of the finished project! You may even find so much spare time on your hands,that you buy a project car,and the fun will beging again!
  19. EXACTLY! IF you are going to err,err on the side of caution. There is no such critter as too much thread contact as long as the end of the bolt isn't interfeering with anything else.
  20. The older I get,the more I hate doing the same job twice.
  21. ?I am hoping you give us a report on how well it worked a week or so after putting the tank back in,and maybe a followup 6 months later?
  22. Beats me,but I bought a new one that was a perfect fit for my P-15 for $250 several years ago. I can't remember for sure,but I THINK the sending unit was extra. I THINK I bought it from Tanks,Inc. Been a while,and I have chemo brain.
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