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knuckleharley

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Everything posted by knuckleharley

  1. The fastest I have ever seen in person was a local guy that did a 48 Chebby for a customer at night and on weekends. He even pulled the body off the chassis to do the chassis and body work,installed a Camaro limited slip rear,327 chevy engine,and 4 speed trans. I THINK he updated the front suspension too,but can't remember at this point. I do remember stopping by his house on several occasions and seeing it as a work in progress,and how it advanced. I remember seeing the body hanging from two engine hoists,for example. I also remember helping him installing the engine and trans. He had it all back together and running down the road in primer in 3 months. No kidding. All this in a 1 and 1 half car garage at home,and he didn't farm out any of it.
  2. Some people swear by farm co-ops,but I can't buy there. I bought my last two at the local NAPA store. Always had good luck with NAPA batteries. BTW,lots of people recommend buying 8 volt batteries so the starter spins faster. I've never bought one,but it sounds like a good idea to me. I suspect you are going to have to go to one of your local tractor dealers to buy a 8 volt battery,though. Do you know any farmers that could buy one for you?
  3. Probably the easiest way to see if this stuff is a direct swap is to check a Hollanders Interchange Manual.
  4. Guys,how about running your wires through shrink tubing as it goes from rear to front and from the engine to the dash? I know it already has one thickness of rubber/plastic to prevent shorts,but one more layer,as well as plastic grommets where it passes through metal ,along with proper fuses should greatly reduce the risk,wouldn't it?
  5. Is that supposed to be an original P-15 chassis and front crossmember? It's dark outside now so i can't look at my P-15 sedan parts car,but that sure looks to be awful heavy duty for a P-15.
  6. Ok,thanks. Never handled any of the stuff myself,and was curious.
  7. Ok,thanks. So the glue on the back of this stuff isn't so tacky you can't move it around a little to get it into place? Did you cut it off so it doesn't go all the way to the bottom of the door? I'm a little concerned about this stuff inside doors and trunk lids absorbing rain/car wash water or sweat and causing rust.
  8. How did you get it inside the doors and trunk lid?
  9. Check your computer for viruses. I clicked on that link to facebook,and a virus locked my computer up. Just spend hours getting rid of it and restoring everything.

    1. casper50

      casper50

      haven't had any problems

       

    2. knuckleharley

      knuckleharley

      Maybe it was something on my browser that just clicked in?

  10. HAH! Like I am stupid enough to fall for THAT for the 17th time!
  11. Thank for the offer. It's even the "right" color for me if it loses the venereal top,but I am too old and have too many physical issues to even think about taking on even a mostly complete project. That one is not only missing the 340,it's missing everything but the body shell.
  12. Thanks for joining and sharing.
  13. Can't blame you. There is not one single engine in the world I would rather have for any of my cars than a 70-71 340,and the tri-power with the breather is just icing on the cake. BTW,I owned a 71 340 Duster in 72. Have nothing but fond memories of that car. If I were rich,I'd own another one. Hell,I wish I could afford to buy a really nice ORIGINAL 70-71 slant 6 Duster or Dart with auto and factory ac to drive every day.
  14. Yikes! That intake and air cleaner setup sells for more than I paid for my 42 Dodge coupe. I honestly can't remember the last time I saw a factory 3x2 setup or even a air cleaner for sale or on a car that wasn't a dedicated duster/barracuda/etc show car. I would rather have a 340 than have a hemi.
  15. Yes. The number after the "P". It tells you what series the car is.
  16. A point of view I am starting to appreciate more with each day that passes.
  17. Yes. The first 3 images in the engine serial number stamped on a boss up near the head and the front of the engine. For example the letter P means Plymouth,D means Dodge,C means Chysler,DE means DeSoto. There will be two numbers behind the letter to let you know what years/series the engine was originally installed into.
  18. Driveable is ALWAYS good.providing it also stops. Many of us spend years gathering and rebuilding parts just to be able to drive a old car for the first time.
  19. Have you ever heard the sound of a inline six with a cam,split cast iron exhaust,duals,and glasspacks? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=47Tdi4QZjb0
  20. What is hydrgraphic,and is clear coat hard enough for dash and garnish mouldings?
  21. Did you use a hardener in the paint for the garnish moldings? If so,what kind/brand?
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