knuckleharley

My money is on the throw-out bearing. Especially if the noise goes away when the clutch pedal is held all the way to the floor.

"First question is what is the correct size of the kingpins for my 1950 plymouth club coupe. I don't want to pull the current ones out until I'm ready for final mockup with new parts prior to frame painting." Since you are going to buy them new anyhow,why not go ahead and buy them now,and then build around them? Nothing works quite as well as having the actual part in your hand you are going to use as you start visualizing and setting things up.

I can never bring myself to sell anything for scrap that I know somebody,somewhere will need. My yard is testimony to that.

It means "Plymouth Owners Club". It is a virtual club on facebook for Plymouth owners and fans.

I just use a battery and jumper cables to test starters. If they kick in and spin they are good. For generators I just used a fan belt on an electric motor to spin it after hooking up and polarizing a regulator,and use an ammeter gauge to read output, In fact,that is the setup I had for a battery charger back when I was a kid. We used a 6 V generator for 6 v batteries,and then switched it out for a 12 v generator when we needed to charge 12 v batteries. Not real high tech.but since it was free due to the generators and regulators coming off of parts cars that had already been scrapped the price was right.

No,but I have dreamed of seeing it often. Preferably with a "For Sale,$100 or best offer." sign hanging on it.

I get a message saying I don't have permission to download that file.

Don,what do you coat your exhaust manifold with to keep it from rusting?

Make sure you specifically ask him if the rubber is dried out or cracked.

I don't know what to tell you,other than the old V-8 Ford mounts weren't vulcanized. They were just had a bolt running through their center that kept them located. These same rubber cushions were used for all the OHV V-8 engine swaps to early fords where the motor mount was in the front. Modern late OHV V-8 into early Ford motor mounts are now side mounts instead of front mounts only because all modern transmissions are aluminum and have the mounts towards the rear. The older auto and cast iron transmissions had mounts at the front on each side,so there was no "bounching" and cracking transmission cases back then. When the manufacturers went to rear mount aluminum transmissions they had to move the engine mounts further back to take stress off the middle. I may be wrong,but I SUSPECT they only vulcanize the rubber to the mounts in more modern cars is for convenience. It keeps the cushion from getting separated from the mount,and prevents it from being mounted wrong. I hope others will chime in here if they know more about this than I do.

Doesn't look to be very hard to make,so why not just buy some steel and make one? You could even make it from steel thicker than the original if you want. Looks like a hacksaw and drill will be the only tools you will need.

Why spend the big bucks for NOS shocks that have been sitting around for decades when you can buy brand new gas-filled shocks that work better a lot cheaper? If you have to in order to be happy,you can always paint them black before installing them.

Thanks for the updates. Mine is a business coupe with fluid drive,and when I started researching this stuff after buying the car a few years ago,I was told or read all the 42's came with either 4.1 or 4.3 rear. Otherwise I never would have spent the big bucks for a 3:73 ring and pinion. I guess the good news is I can always sell it to someone else if it won't work in my 33 Dodge sedan. Does anyone know if rear parts in the 33 and 42 are interchangeable?

My 42 Dodge coupe came stock from the factory with a 4:11 rear or a 4:4something rear. I did manage to find a buy a NOS 3:73 ring and pinion for it,though. I'm guessing the 3:73 option was popular in the flat mid-west where there were lots of miles between gas stations.

Like Bill Clinton,I am waiting with baited breath.

I have no idea why that one cylinder would be overbore more than the others. Maybe a slight flaw in it,or maybe your machinist just overbored them to fit the pistons he could find,and one didn't clean up enough? I give him props for calling you and telling you are it,instead of just finishing it up and then blaming you for doing something during break-in that caused it. Regardless,what you need to do is have that one cylinder re-sleeved,and then bored to size to match the new piston and rings. Egge Machine Shop sells cylinder sleeves for old cars and trucks,but I am sure they are available from a bunch of other sources because they are made to a specific size,not to a specific engine. I would visit the machinist so I could be looking into his eyes as I asked him why he didn't suggest sleeving that one cylinder to start with,and if he has ever done it before. If you are not happy with what you see,pay him what you owe him for what he has done,and leave with your engine and all assorted parts right THEN and hunt down a more experienced machine shop to finish it up.

If you are just interested in a pretty dark green and not a specific Mopar green,you might want to look at a paint chart for 49-51 Fords. There is a Hunter Green that is a dark metallic that was also used on Kaisers and several other cars that is very pretty. I live up a dirt road,or I would use it on a couple of my cars. Rust-o-leum even has a Hunter Green if you want to buy pre-mixed,although it doesn't look to me like it has the metallic in it.

Thom,the US state of Virginia is a title state,and IF the person selling the car to you hasn't changed the title to his name,the original owners name and address will be on the title when you get it. Many people never bother to change the title to their name when they get an old car because they either bought it to sell and don't want to pay the taxes and fees and wait for the new title to come in,or because they don't want to pay property tax,the area they live in demands all cars on the property be licensed,registered,and inspected and the car doesn't run and won't pass the inspection,or because they just don't get around to doing it. Zoning and tax regulations are getting to the point in some areas where there is a restriction on how many unlicensed cars you can have on your property regardless of how many acres you own,and you can be fined and have the vehicles confiscated if you don't comply. For this reason some people are listing every car they buy and paying property taxes on them as well as buying tags. It's cheaper to do that than pay the fines. These laws are also responsible for a hell of lot of these old cars just going to the crusher. At any rate,ask the seller if he has a title for the car with matching numbers. If he doesn't,don't buy it. I can only imagine what a nightmare it would be to get one through customs with no title or a title with numbers that don't match. IF he has the title but never changed it to his name and it has already been notarized,you need to have him get a clear title in his name and then put your name and address in the "new owner" box and have it notarized and sent to you so you have no customs problems picking it up. If that is the case,ask him what the name and address of the original owner are,or just have him make a photo copy and send to you so you can display it when you show the car. Virginia MAY offer a title search that will allow you to trace the car back to it's first Virginia owner for a small fee. If none of that works,you will have to contact Chrysler to see if they have any record. I don't know about this,but will be very surprised if a poster here doesn't make a post telling us how to do it and who to contact if it can be done. Good luck. I happen to think these are very nice cars to drive and enjoy. I even just bought a 2 carb intake manifold for my 49!

I can't help you with that because I have never removed the steering wheel on my 49 Windsor coupe,but I do want to comment on how beautiful these stock dashboards are.

i think the bumpers are Mopar,but late 50's,early 60's. I know I know what they are,but just can't remember right now.

Given your known history of the car I think the first thing I would suspect is a faulty water pump. Maybe the impeller is loose on the shaft and not spinning as fast as it should? Plus it is a cheap to check to see if that's what it is. All it would cost to check the shaft and impeller would be the time to remove and replace the pump,plus make a gasket.

The only time I can think of would be when you can't find new ones. I have bought brand new Lockheed wheel cylinders for 40's and 50 cars for as little as $4.95 each. Most kils cost more than that. If you are a Amazon Prime member check them first because you can get free shipping.IIRC,I bought new wheel cylinders for my 39 IHC half-ton pickup there for $4.95 each including shipping. They were the same wheel cylinders as used in the 53 and 54 Corvette.