Jump to content

knuckleharley

Members
  • Content count

    3,328
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    36

knuckleharley last won the day on May 25

knuckleharley had the most liked content!

6 Followers

About knuckleharley

  • Rank
    Guru, have been a long time contributor

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    North Carolina
  • Interests
    Old anything mechanical,history,travel,guns,military
  • My Project Cars
    33 Plymouth coupe,33 Dodge 4dr,37 Dodge 4x4 truck,42 Dodge coupe,48 Plymouth coupe,49 Chrysler Windsor coupe.

    Have others,but they aren't Mopar. 32 Ford 5 window coupe,34 Ford pu,53 Ford Club Coupe with a FE,stock 38 Ford Standard tudor humpback sedan.

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    Retired
  • Occupation
    Retired

Converted

  • Location
    North Carolina
  • Interests
    old cars,truck,tools,motorcycles

Recent Profile Visitors

2,173 profile views
  1. knuckleharley

    Why are parts crap???

    Guys,I ain't trying to rub it in and I even hate to admit it,but this thread has really cheered me up. Here I was thinking it was just me.
  2. knuckleharley

    1949 Plymouth Business Coupe

    The good news is that if you want an original dash,they aren't hard to find or very expensive. I 'm with ya on the dashes of these old cars being beautiful. I think the dashes and steering wheels are half the reason I am attracted to them.
  3. knuckleharley

    Why are parts crap???

    I I know. There is only one radiator shop I know of within 100 miles of me that is even willing to rod out or recore a radiator,and he only does it when he feels like it. You have to drop your radiator off,and then wait for him to call and tell you it is ready,and then make another round trip drive to get it. Maybe a week later,maybe 2 months later,depending on how much modern work he has to do. I have heard rumors about a guy maybe 75 miles away that has a one man shop and prefers to work on older stuff that still does recores and rodding out,but nobody seems to be able to remember his or the shop name,and the closest I can get for directions is "someone better town x and town y,I forgot what road." Driving me nuts. I have a 37 IHC PU that runs and drives perfectly,but the radiator core blew out and nobody even wants to look and see if they can get a replacement core. They just want to sell me a new one for 800 to 1,000 bucks.
  4. knuckleharley

    I bought another old dodge !

    I live in NC. I bought a 49 Dodge B1 pu from a guy in Virginia with a clear Va title,and the engine numbers matched the numbers on the title. I ended up selling it to a friend of mine and he took it to the DVM to get a new title. What he got was a registration good for 1 year,and tags so he could drive it. The DMV inspector,who he knows very well since he runs a commercial garage that does state inspections,showed up a month or so later,inspected the truck and the title,filled out his form,and sent it in. The NC DMV refused to issue him a title to the truck because the engine number didn't match the frame number. Yes,it DID match the title number on the valid Va title,which the state of NC destroyed,btw,but NC doesn't recognize engine numbers for title purposes. They told him he could appeal and they would give him another 1 year registration,but now he's pissed and just has it parked because he doesn't want to spend any more time or money on it when he isn't sure if he will get a title or not. Keep in mind that this was a perfectly valid title in Va,and unusual even for Va because most 1949 trucks have had the engine changed,or have no engine at all. In that case,you can get a title based on the chassis number. IF the NC DMV had returned the VA title he could take it to VA and get a new title in his name and have it changed to show the chassis number,but they don't do that. I had the same problem with my 37 Dodge 1 ton truck that was sold new to a Va city as a fire truck. I now have a 1937 Dodge truck with a NC VIN number that is not even remotely related to any MOPAR VIN number. BTW,my friend is a restorer,and he doesn't want and won't even accept a NC DMV VIN number for his truck. So it's just going to sit there until it rusts away.
  5. knuckleharley

    Why are parts crap???

    I think a lot of it has to do with "it's a mail order world and they never see most of their customers". The "reproduction" radiator I bought for my 51 Ford 6 cylinder coupe came in with a neck the original 4 psi cap wouldn't fit,and the bottom radiator hose extension was shaped wrong. I had to cut it and use bent exhaust pipe to be able to use it. When I called the manufacturer to tell him about this and complain,he just said "Oh,yeah. We changed the necks to modern necks a while back,and a modern 16 psi cap will go right on it." When I told him I had bought it from him and paid him over 500 bucks for it BECAUSE it was advertised as an exact duplicate of the original and I wanted to run an original radiator cap,he just said "Sorry,we don't make those anymore." When I told him about the lower hose and fuel pump conflict,he just laughed and told me I would have to modify it. I used it is spite of this because the radiator came from a company on the left coast,and I live on the east coast. If he had been within a few hundred miles of me and laughed,he wouldn't be laughing any more until he got out of the hospital. I COULD have sent it back to him and waiting for a refund and then ordered the 700 dollar radiator from The Brass Works,but I didn't want to wait another month or two before I could drive the car,so I used it,and am still mad about it. It has been my experience in life that retailers that screw me do NOT laugh at me when I show up in person with a beef.
  6. knuckleharley

    I bought another old dodge !

    Yup,and as more young cops get a badge,there are going to be more cops that are enviro-freaks looking for any excuse to pull a old car off the road. Your only defense is to not give them that excuse.
  7. knuckleharley

    Brake and fuel line routing???

    The brake line is obviously going to run along the drivers side of the chassis,and you can mount it anywhere that is convenient to you. Do yourself a favor and mount your disc-brake mastercylinder and booster,if you use a booster,before you even touch the brake lines. The brake line can cross over to the passenger side under/inside,or even behind the crossmember where the rear of the engine/transmission crossmember is attached to the chassis. Inside the hollow is best because it is the most protected. Use new brake hoses,too. The gas line obviously runs along the passenger side of the car. I like to put a ethanol-proof gas filter to the line under the hood before it reaches the fuel pump,but that's just me. Make sure you use rubber gas lines approved for use with ethanol gas anywhere you need a rubber fuel line Do yourself a favor and use the new nickle-copper brake line for both lines. It won't rust inside or out,and you can even bend it with your hands without it kinking.
  8. knuckleharley

    Adjust headlights

    I don't know how far you have to drive,but why not call them first?
  9. knuckleharley

    I bought another old dodge !

    He was asking BECAUSE he wasn't sure it was a match. I'm not,either. Looks like a 5 to me. Look at the upper left corner on the number some people see as a "6",and you will see a "90 degree peak" like the number "5". What I once did in a similar situation was to just get a new title from the old one,and then a few months later notify the state there there was a typo on the new title,and gave them the correct number. No problem. They just sent me a new matching title. That is NOT something you can count on happening,but it is an option. If your DMV questions it and send out an inspector,just show them the number in question and ask them if they can see how it could have been seen two different ways by a previous inspector. No guarantee,but most are reasonable men with experience in the field,and there ain't much they haven't seen. This won't be anything new to them. Back in the "bad old days" new titles weren't scanned. Someone sat behind a typewriter 8 hours a day and typed that crap out. No matter how diligent and skilled you are,sooner or later you are going to make a typo. Even IF the inspector were to see a "6" instead of a "5" or a "5" instead of a "6",you would just get a new title with that number on it,and that would be counted as a certification of correct numbers from your state. On the other hand,if they want to play reindeer games,tell them to take up their bitch with the DMV from the state that issued it,not you,because YOU are not responsible for what some state typist or DMV inspector mistake. Unless they see obvious fraud like overstamps,you are going to get a title. DMV's are in the business of selling license plates and collecting taxes,not bullying taxpayers.
  10. knuckleharley

    Adjust headlights

    Pretty much any auto parts store in the country. Just take one of yours off to look for a perfect match when you get there.
  11. knuckleharley

    1954 Starter Motor

    Call around to all your local starter and generator/alternator rebuild shops and ask them what a starter rebuild will cost you. If your armature isn't bad,a rebuild is pretty cheap.
  12. knuckleharley

    52 meadowbrook ?

    Looks like a nice,complete,solid car to redo,but I would be concerned about finding another windshield,and if you do find a NOS one it won't be cheap. Make an offer on the car with the possible replacement costs of a windshield in consideration.
  13. knuckleharley

    Aluminum water distribution tube

    Make sure you use one of the modern anti-freeze mixes that are rated to use with aluminum radiators.
  14. knuckleharley

    I bought another old dodge !

    Looks like a 5 to me.
  15. knuckleharley

    53 Chrysler More Door

    I think that is true now in almost all situations where you need new drums,shoes,springs,wheel cylinders,and master cylinder. Even if it's not true,the disc brake swap is so close to the drum brake rebuild costs that you might as well do it and get better brakes you can get parts for anywhere. As a safety bonus,you are also upgrading to a dual-outlet master cylinder at the same time. Which is money you SHOULD spend anyhow even if you keep the drum brakes up front. I would only add that we should all keep the drums and other parts we take off for the next owner in case he wants to restore it. Can't sell that crap for enough money to be worth your time anyhow,and having it might even help your sale.
×

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use