• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


knuckleharley last won the day on August 16

knuckleharley had the most liked content!


About knuckleharley

  • Rank
    Guru, have been a long time contributor

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    North Carolina
  • Interests
    Old anything mechanical,history,travel,guns,military
  • My Project Cars
    33 Plymouth coupe,33 Dodge 4dr,37 Dodge 4x4 truck,42 Dodge coupe,48 Plymouth coupe,49 Chrysler Windsor coupe.

    Have others,but they aren't Mopar. 32 Ford 5 window coupe,34 Ford pu,53 Ford Club Coupe with a FE,stock 38 Ford Standard tudor humpback sedan.

Contact Methods

  • Biography
  • Occupation


  • Location
    North Carolina
  • Interests
    old cars,truck,tools,motorcycles

Recent Profile Visitors

1,344 profile views
  1. You asked about Gremlims,but I'm going to give you opinions. IF *I* owned that car and lived in Vegas,the first thing I would do would be to replace EVERYTHING in it associated with the word "brake" with brand new,not rebuilt,parts. The second thing would be to paint it white or a pale "something" that doesn't have the words "Dark" or "black" on the can. The third thing I would be to drop it off at an upholstery shop and have that black seat dyed white or a pale color that goes with the new pale color on the outside. Or just have it recovered in a lighter color with a material that breathes.
  2. Sorry,Windows 10 made that word into a hot link,not me. I didn't even notice it had happened until you asked me about it. My suggestion is to do a web search using the words "radiator repair" in your local area,and then call around to get estimates. If you don't care about losing the original brass and copper look,go on ebay or amazon and look up an aluminum Champion radiator.
  3. Is your radiator missing,or just leaking? If you have one and the tanks are good,you can get a new core put installed on the tanks and save a bundle of money as long as you are willing to use modern cores. It starts to get pricey when you go for the honeycomb cores,though. This is assuming you are running a 6 cylinder flathead,of course. If you are running a modern V-8 you can put pretty much anything you want in the car.
  4. Sure is pretty,and other than a new front seat cover,doesn't seem to need anything to be a nice driver.
  5. You got that right! I know I would sure hate to have to be tracking down a 287.
  6. Should be up high,just below the head up front. At least that is where they are on my DeSoto engines.
  7. Maybe your experiences are different than mine,but unless it was a nationally-recognized chain that specializes in engine rebuilds and has a good reputation,I prefer to have it done locally for 2 reasons. 1: I like to support local businesses if possible 2: If things are not as they are supposed to be,I have found that placing my hands around the evil-doers neck helps to eliminate any confusion about a refund. When I was younger I was willing to travel hundreds of miles if necessary to discuss matters face to face,but I just don't have that much patience or time anymore. People have a tendency to tell you anything they need to tell you to get you off the telephone,but that's a lot harder for them to do when you are standing in front of them.
  8. Look for a stamping on the block on the side where the radiator hose is pointing (passenger side of the car). It will be stamped "D","DE",or "C",with a dash and a numerical code after that. The D means it is a Dodge,the DE means it is a DeSoto,and the C would mean it is a Chrysler. The numerical code after the letter code tells you which version . For example,one of my DeSoto Hemi's had a number stamped on the block that shows it was a factory 291 cubic inch engine with the factory 4 barrel carbs,and I THINK more compression and a hotter cam than the standard 2 brl engine. Been a while since I deciphered the code and not important enough for me to remember those details. I had intended to put it in my junker 33 Plymouth coupe,but will probably try to find a restorer that wants it,and use the 330 DeSoto in the 33 instead. Coming from a big truck it SHOULD be a 241 cubic inch Dodge,but since it was a old truck,it could be anything. I am not familiar with Dodge hemi's in trucks,so it is possible there will be another letter after the "D" to signify it is a truck engine,which will probably have smaller valves and less compression. BTW,yes,there ARE aftermarket speed parts available for the 241 Dodge hemi. 3x2 as well as 4x2 intakes,as well as hotter cams. Get thee to the Pontiac boards and post that 287 Pontiac and trans for sale. Hard engine to find,and you can bet there has to be someone there looking for it for a restoration project.
  9. If you have the factory parts numbers and the patience, is hard to beat. I bought brand new Lockheed wheel cylinders for my 39 IHC pu for $3.95 each there. IHC parts dealers were wanting stupid money for them. Same thing with my 51 Ford. It was either my 51 Ford or my 39 IHC that used the same parts numbers as the 53-54 Corvette. The key is searching by parts number stamped or cast on the part. If you look for "1948 Plymouth",generally speaking all you will come up with are parts for a 1948 Plymouth.
  10. I used to bracket race a 70 Toyota Corolla with the 4 cylinder engine and auto trans I bought new. I would run in Bracket 5,and dial in somewhere close to eternity. I'd take off in drive with music playing on my 8-track,and just let it shift itself. Almost always won my bracket. The guy that gave me the biggest trouble has a stock 53 Ford pu with Fordomatic. I could take him at top end,but would sometimes run too fast and DQ myself. I was hilarious to watch the rear view mirror and see those 427 Chevelles and Ram Air 4 Pontiac "stock" cars that the dealers had trailered to the track take off when I was already 3/4 of the way down the track. CLOUDS of tire smoke,and they would blow past me at the finish line so fast it would scare me,but they had almost always panicked and ran too fast. I usually made my car payments bracket racing that Toyota.
  11. Can't blame you for being unhappy. They shouldn't have taken your order OR your money if they couldn't complete the contract in a timely manner.
  12. IIRC,the Nazi's developed water injection for their fighters shortly before WW-2. They had build fighters with piston engines that would fly so high the thin air would choke them down,so they came up with the idea of using water injection to pump water/oyxgen into the cylinders to increase the power. I remember there was more than one outfit offering kits for modern cars when I was living in Denver in the mid-70's. By then the EPA regs had choked the cars down so much there were people buying new 6 cylinder Darts and getting 6 mpg with no power. I was working at a Chrysler dealership at the time,and between the low compression and the "Lean Burn",even little old ladies that had been buying Dodges all their lives would be talking nasty to you because you couldn't fix their cars. You can imagine what happened when you added that problem to Denver's mile high elevation. The water injection was a huge help,and it was about the only thing that could help at that time without the enviro-nazi's jumping all over you.
  13. I'm honestly not sure you can even get 2 of them re-plated for a grand anymore. I had both bumpers for my P-15 re-chromed a few years ago and it cost me $660 to have it done,and that was with me delivering them and picking them up. I was horrified and everybody was telling me about what a good deal I got. These bumpers were both straight and pit-free,also. I can't imagine what something complex like a 49 Plymouth bumper would cost if it were pitted and dented. Probably be cheaper to just buy another 49 Plymouth.
  14. Can you tell me if the front bumpers were ever chromed,and then painted over,or just painted? The reason I ask is I bought a front clip and both bumpers from a 42 Dodge army car,and the fenders were OD,and so were the bumpers,but I can see good chrome where the paint was scrapped off. I'm wondering if they just painted over the original Army contract chrome bumpers to be "uniform GI",or if the original bumpers were just painted to save chrome for the war effort?
  15. Nothing,if you are talking about dripping water into your carb as the engine is warmed up and running,and are careful to not pour too much water at any one time. I did this to a friends restored WW-2 Jeep that had been sitting for years and only driven in parades at a little above idle. Before doing this the fastest he could drive up the hill near his house was 35 MPH. He was able to drive up that hill at close to 45 MPH after blowing all the carbon out,and it ran smoother,too. If you have never done this before you will be amazed at all the black smoke that comes out of your tailpipe. If you are talking about something else,you need to ask someone else because I don't have a clue.