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knuckleharley

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knuckleharley last won the day on March 23

knuckleharley had the most liked content!

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About knuckleharley

  • Rank
    Guru, have been a long time contributor

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    North Carolina
  • Interests
    Old anything mechanical,history,travel,guns,military
  • My Project Cars
    33 Plymouth coupe,33 Dodge 4dr,37 Dodge 4x4 truck,42 Dodge coupe,48 Plymouth coupe,49 Chrysler Windsor coupe.

    Have others,but they aren't Mopar. 32 Ford 5 window coupe,34 Ford pu,53 Ford Club Coupe with a FE,stock 38 Ford Standard tudor humpback sedan.

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  • Biography
    Retired
  • Occupation
    Retired

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  • Location
    North Carolina
  • Interests
    old cars,truck,tools,motorcycles

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  1. I like it. It reminds me of a MUCH shinier version of the first car I ever bought,a 1938 Chrysler flat 6 4dr. Paid 20 bucks for it with a clear title. Some valves were stuck,but once we freed them up it ran like a new one. I was 14,and my plans were to get it safe and reliable to drive from "summer job money" by the time I turned 16. Then one day I came home from school and discovered somebody stopped by and offered my father 250 bucks for it,and he sold it and kept the money. "My yard,my car,my money" is how he justified this theft.
  2. I have news for you,bubba. EVERYBODY has an eye for your car. I am personally eaten alive with envy at the paint job and the chrome. That may be my favorite shade of green,and IMNSHO,it adds a touch of class to anything it is sprayed over.
  3. Don,if something is borderline to start with,it doesn't take much to push it over the line. Could it be he deals with more humidity than you,or maybe even a different ethanol blend? One thing we all know for certain,this was sometimes a problem even when these cars were new,and were getting real gas with lead,so we are kinda fighting a problem the original engineers never even considered.
  4. I,for one,will be very interested in reading your report,
  5. Does anyone know what an acceptable temperature is for a 6 volt positive ground coil?
  6. Excellent point about the hot coil,Plymouthy,and one I hadn't even thought about! One possible solution to that MIGHT be to mount it on the firewall instead of the engine.
  7. Hard starts when hot are standard equipment with flathead engines,6 or 8. The only "solution" I ever discovered was to drink another cup of coffee and wait for it to cool down. Wrapping all the gas lines with heat resistant wrap might help some,though. AFATG,swapping out the underhood hard steel gas lines with rubber gas lines will probably help a lot,but make damn sure you are getting rubber lines rated for ethanol gas or buy a REALLY big fire extinguisher to take with you everywhere you go. I guess,if you wanted,if you could find a rubber gas line with the same ID as the OD of your gas line,you could use that as an outer insulator to keep heat away from the gas line and still have the security of a steel line. Never tried it because I just now thought of it,but I see no reason why it wouldn't help.
  8. I have discovered as I get older and more feeble that time is now more important to me than money,and I just don't have the patience to do something more than once. I have bought two new gas tanks for antique cars from Tanks,Inc,and both fit and worked like a dream. IIRC,they each cost around 230 bucks including shipping. When you consider how little 230 bucks buys these days and how valuable your remaining time is,my vote is to never screw with an old leaking or rusty gas tank. ESPECIALLY in this day of ethanol fuel that eats old gas tank sealers like acid. Just buy a new one and be done with it.
  9. Yup! Like a wise man once said, "They ain't making them anymore." Not to mention that 500 bucks is not much more than lunch money these days. I know a lot of people who are paying more than that in monthly payments on "nothing special" new cars or trucks.
  10. A 48x80 "shed"? Yeah,I would call that nice. Hope it is insulated if you plan on heating it in the winter in Mn.
  11. I am no expert on this since I have only done it maybe 5 or 6 times,but each time I have done it that was never a problem. I just changed the oil and started driving them. Drove one off and on for maybe 10 years before selling it to an idiot that pulled the flat V-8 and put a 350 in it "because that's what all the cool kids do." What pissed me off the most was he sold the good engine and trans for scrap. I used to call him names every time I saw him starting with "stupid" and going downhill from there,but haven't seen him in several years now. He must have died or moved away.
  12. I started doing it because I needed to unstick an engine that had been stuck for decades,and that was what I had to use at the time. Don't really care about the water and oil based thing. What I know for a fact is that brake fluid LOVES to weep,and I figure that if I can get it to weep past the corrosion the ATF can take over after that. What I do know for a fact is that it works.
  13. IMNSHO,you got a hell of a bargain on those wheels. I remember seeing used ones selling for more than that 20 years ago. As for the rest of it,yeah,that's how you get sucked in. Ask anyone.
  14. Why spend money you might not need to spend? For all you know,the engine will be fine once you get it unstuck and it fires a few times under compression and blows all the rust away/ There are many,many fluids and methods you can use to unstick a stuck engine,but MY favorite involves brake fluid and ATF. Mostly because it works,and like me,it is cheap. Pull the head and the side covers and use a plastic hammer to close all the valves that will close. Leave the side covers off for the time being. Fill each cylinder with a 50/50 mix of brake fluid and ATF,and then screw in one of those fancy auto parts store "valve hold closed devices" people screw into the heads of modern cars to hold the valves shut. Or be like me and break the porcelain off an old spark plug,tap the hole,and screw a air fitting in the plug so you can plug your air compressor to it. Let your compressor pump up whatever it will pump up,and just sit there and wait until you start hearing "blub,blub,blub" sounds coming from the engine base. Once you hear those sounds,you know your rings in that cylinder will be getting the brake fluid/atf lube they need,and then move on to the next one that has closed valves. You may have to repeat the air pressure trick in some cylinders,but no big deal. Just be patient and let the lube and the air pressure do your work for you. Once you have them all done,hook a battery to your engine and "bump" the starter a few times to break them all lose. Once they are all loose and the engine starts to spin over,refill all the cylinders with ATF and pressurize them again to make sure no rings are stuck and they are all oiled. This is the point where I like to drain all the oil out of the oil pan,and refill the engine with really cheap 20 or 30 wt engine oil. Even the modern 0-20 oil will work and won't harm a thing because all you are going to do with this new oil is spin the engine over with the starter until it builds oil pressure,and then you are going to drain it all out and refill it with the proper 30 wt non-detergent oil anyway. Good idea to clean the oil filter housing,too. Once you get it spinning over and building oil pressure,readjust the valves and try to start it. I have started stuck engines using this method that had been sitting for decades,and been able to drive them with no problems. Just don't get in a hurry and try to use brute force on the crankshaft bolt. Let the starter do the work with gentle "bumps" that shock the rust loose.
  15. That sure is a pretty green. I am tempted to ask what you had to pay for the wire wheels,but I am not sure my old heart could stand the shock.
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