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JBNeal last won the day on January 22

JBNeal had the most liked content!


About JBNeal

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  1. it is my understanding that fresh coolant displaces oxygen to limit oxidation...the aftermarket heater in my '49 only has a manual shutoff valve, stuck in the open position...on cool days below 70, it gets the cab toasty enough I can keep the window open to give my (legal) hand signals for turning and whutnot...but on most days that it's well over 70, I am reminded just how much I don't need a heater in that truck for 6 months out of the year
  2. This may be a useful...it looks even better when covered with a floor mat
  3. Back when I assumed Dodge Truck engineers were all on the same page, I purchased a set of Power Wagon lug studs for my '49 1-ton...they both had very similar powertrains, so I assumed the rear hubs were the same...and then I learned that they were not 🙄
  4. The hub stud bore averaged 0.624". The stud shank diameter averaged 0.623" at its maximum, and the length is about 13/16". The stud length is about 2-1/8". I reckon the tight shank fit means to me that each stud was carefully pressed in. Now I clearly see how later B-series have a different stud that does not supercede the earlier production...later studs and nuts could possibly fit the early hubs if the hub stud bores are opened up to 0.626", which is easier said than done
  5. The stud has two impressions on each side of the shank, I am unsure if a special punch is used to hammer over part of the hub though as I could not see any marking on the hub face. The clipped head seats against a surface on the hub so that looks like that would hold the stud from rotating.
  6. I had to get out The Persuader to pop the drum off of the shoes it was hanging up on, but eventually wiggled it off and cleaned around one of the studs...I could then see the factory staking of the stud that I had heard about. I rigged a tool to hold the hub so the press could pop out the stud without damaging the drum. And POP it did as I pumped up that press jack until that stud broke loose...had to press it all the way out, and examining the hub bore, it was as clean as the stud shank.
  7. The Persuader...2# dead blow hammer
  8. I did some checking, saw some things, re-read the parts manual, and looks like I need to do more research. I recalled having a conversation back in 2003 with an old parts guy who filled me in on the difficulty of replacing the busted LH stud on my '49. He said that style of stud had a smooth shank and required a special tool to set the heads so they would lock in place. I went to pull a drum off my '48 parts truck, but they will need more persuading during daylight hours. I compared lugnuts, and they are not the same. Measuring stud diameters, the early studs are 9/16", the later studs are 5/8". So it looks like I'll need to pop out that busted stud to figure out the dimensions of the B-1 hub and the stud...but at least I found a source that might be helpful
  9. the CDs are economical if you have a printer that allows you to reel off a few pages to take into the shop...I prefer the hardcopy reproductions because I can leaf through those and study them, even get them dirty, and if I need another copy, there are sources out there that still carry them...the FSM repro that I picked up in '99 was bound so that I could remove pages for feeding into a copy machine, which was kinda nice
  10. I studied the parts manual, and it appears the B-1 lug studs and lug nuts were revised, as were the hubs...There is a part number break for the B-2s, and the B-2 parts truck I have is similar to the B-1s I have. My B-3 has different sized lug studs and lug nuts. Searching the internets, I found these possible replacement parts for the later parts that should be readily available: Lug Stud, Left: Mopar 1273555 Budd 67459 Lug Stud, Right: Mopar 1273554 Budd 67458 Lug Nut, Left: Mopar 1273557 Budd 67148 Lug Nut, Right: Mopar 1273556 Budd 67147 I spoke with a sales rep at Van Horn Truck Parts about the availability of the LH stud, and he said that there are 20 on his shelf and 1700 at his supplier...how'bout that
  11. I have seen rebuilt engines with their numbers ground off and a new number stamped in its place for warranty identification...I think the reason was that an engine gets one rebuild on it and after that, the engine is too worn to be reworked or obsolete
  12. I was doing some research during another cold'n'rainy day and noticed some OT content on one of my build threads. Looking at four of my build threads, only one had content that stayed on topic, and two others had significant OT content. I have reached out in the past to participants when they went off the rails to remind them that they were going OT on my build thread, in each instance I was summarily blown off and told that was how the internet works. At any rate, the only way that I can see for a thread originator to control content on a build thread is to report posts, but I get the impression that is generally frowned upon as it puts a burden upon moderators on censoring members. Is reporting posts the only way to control content, or am I missing something?
  13. additional information when I get to that part of the detail work, I plan on on putting a dab of weatherstrip adhesive on the twist nails (that I will attempt to salvage) to seal the cowl holes
  14. I did one tractor pull at an antique tractor show with the '67 Farmall 1206 I had recently restored...no modifications, no weights, just bone stock on a muddy track...was 10 feet away from a full pull, something the modified tractors could not even do cuz the track was too wet, before I started to dig in and bounce the front tires...got a standing ovation from most of the crowd of 300 or so while I was unhooking...wasn't really interested in doing it before that day, haven't been interested since, only did it on a dare, got a free homemade ice cream cone for my efforts...I noticed the weight wasn't moving on the sled for the station wagon, and the 2 chvy diesels pooped out just after launch 😆
  15. During this rainy day, I was doing some follow-up research on universal joints that had been discussed earlier. The Cleveland type u-joints are not easy to find these days, though there are listings at Roberts, MoparMall and DCM. These units appear to fit, but the grease zerk is not as easily accessible as the original design, which was not a bike ride to get to either. I found a part number that grey beard had used, but my research looks like that economically priced u-joint is similar to the internal locked unit used earlier in post #25. So for now, I reckon the limits of our choices are to use a Cleveland-type u-joint that is difficult to lubricate or to use a modern u-joint that is "close enough"
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