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JBNeal last won the day on September 2

JBNeal had the most liked content!


About JBNeal

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    Mechanical Engineer


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  1. I took a 6 month hiatus to deal with several slow motion disasters that continue to unfold in my neck of the woods...we had a wet winter and soggy spring that had me trimming trees all the way into August, when it is boiling hot and the yellowjackets + bees are hiding behind every obscured object that ya might inadvertently bump into, not to mention the ravenous skeeters + chiggers that caused an insane amount of night itching, and that was only one of the minor problems I had to deal with...the tsunami of issues earlier this year were very stress-inducing, and I figured if a hobby-based community that I liked to participate in was gonna have my concerns ignored then get talked down to then maybe I should focus on other things that have turned my life into the basis for a country song. I was able to spend a few hours last week digging a couple of my parts trucks out of the black dirt that their blocks had sunken 6" into, made some larger-based blocks that are less likely to sink, and pulled the tie-vines out from all of the fenders...been doing some other preparation work that isn't too exciting (such as upgrading lights and electrical in the barn) but has taken a LOT of time to accomplish and I'm in a better position to get some interesting work done in the future. The way things are going, I don't expect to be able to get any major restoration work done this year, but I'm still gonna chip away at the little stuff on the side to get my mind off of all the daily drudgery that gets flung in my direction
  2. it is my understanding that fresh coolant displaces oxygen to limit oxidation...the aftermarket heater in my '49 only has a manual shutoff valve, stuck in the open position...on cool days below 70, it gets the cab toasty enough I can keep the window open to give my (legal) hand signals for turning and whutnot...but on most days that it's well over 70, I am reminded just how much I don't need a heater in that truck for 6 months out of the year
  3. This may be a useful...it looks even better when covered with a floor mat
  4. Back when I assumed Dodge Truck engineers were all on the same page, I purchased a set of Power Wagon lug studs for my '49 1-ton...they both had very similar powertrains, so I assumed the rear hubs were the same...and then I learned that they were not 🙄
  5. The hub stud bore averaged 0.624". The stud shank diameter averaged 0.623" at its maximum, and the length is about 13/16". The stud length is about 2-1/8". I reckon the tight shank fit means to me that each stud was carefully pressed in. Now I clearly see how later B-series have a different stud that does not supercede the earlier production...later studs and nuts could possibly fit the early hubs if the hub stud bores are opened up to 0.626", which is easier said than done
  6. The stud has two impressions on each side of the shank, I am unsure if a special punch is used to hammer over part of the hub though as I could not see any marking on the hub face. The clipped head seats against a surface on the hub so that looks like that would hold the stud from rotating.
  7. I had to get out The Persuader to pop the drum off of the shoes it was hanging up on, but eventually wiggled it off and cleaned around one of the studs...I could then see the factory staking of the stud that I had heard about. I rigged a tool to hold the hub so the press could pop out the stud without damaging the drum. And POP it did as I pumped up that press jack until that stud broke loose...had to press it all the way out, and examining the hub bore, it was as clean as the stud shank.
  8. The Persuader...2# dead blow hammer
  9. I did some checking, saw some things, re-read the parts manual, and looks like I need to do more research. I recalled having a conversation back in 2003 with an old parts guy who filled me in on the difficulty of replacing the busted LH stud on my '49. He said that style of stud had a smooth shank and required a special tool to set the heads so they would lock in place. I went to pull a drum off my '48 parts truck, but they will need more persuading during daylight hours. I compared lugnuts, and they are not the same. Measuring stud diameters, the early studs are 9/16", the later studs are 5/8". So it looks like I'll need to pop out that busted stud to figure out the dimensions of the B-1 hub and the stud...but at least I found a source that might be helpful
  10. the CDs are economical if you have a printer that allows you to reel off a few pages to take into the shop...I prefer the hardcopy reproductions because I can leaf through those and study them, even get them dirty, and if I need another copy, there are sources out there that still carry them...the FSM repro that I picked up in '99 was bound so that I could remove pages for feeding into a copy machine, which was kinda nice
  11. I studied the parts manual, and it appears the B-1 lug studs and lug nuts were revised, as were the hubs...There is a part number break for the B-2s, and the B-2 parts truck I have is similar to the B-1s I have. My B-3 has different sized lug studs and lug nuts. Searching the internets, I found these possible replacement parts for the later parts that should be readily available: Lug Stud, Left: Mopar 1273555 Budd 67459 Lug Stud, Right: Mopar 1273554 Budd 67458 Lug Nut, Left: Mopar 1273557 Budd 67148 Lug Nut, Right: Mopar 1273556 Budd 67147 I spoke with a sales rep at Van Horn Truck Parts about the availability of the LH stud, and he said that there are 20 on his shelf and 1700 at his supplier...how'bout that
  12. I have seen rebuilt engines with their numbers ground off and a new number stamped in its place for warranty identification...I think the reason was that an engine gets one rebuild on it and after that, the engine is too worn to be reworked or obsolete
  13. I was doing some research during another cold'n'rainy day and noticed some OT content on one of my build threads. Looking at four of my build threads, only one had content that stayed on topic, and two others had significant OT content. I have reached out in the past to participants when they went off the rails to remind them that they were going OT on my build thread, in each instance I was summarily blown off and told that was how the internet works. At any rate, the only way that I can see for a thread originator to control content on a build thread is to report posts, but I get the impression that is generally frowned upon as it puts a burden upon moderators on censoring members. Is reporting posts the only way to control content, or am I missing something?
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