Jump to content

james49ply

Members
  • Posts

    316
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by james49ply

  1. Have a 1930 Desoto, did the same thing, drive a while and sputter and quit running. After looking everywhere I decided to check the fuel pump. the sediment bowl was full, so I pulled the fuel pump off, disassembled and found that the way the pump worked was odd and one spring that holds the valve was missing, guess it broke up and who knows where it is? I installed an 6 volt electric pump and cured the problem. electric pumps are good backup in my opinion, 30 Desoto, 48 Plymouth, 49 Buick and 65 Mustang. they are switched and used to refill the cab after shutdown due to the lousy e10 fuel causing boil out due to the very low boiling point of ethanol.
  2. I haven't done a replacement yet, but was going to use a Ford Explorer rear set-up, plentiful, cheap, wheel bolt pattern the same. 5x4.5
  3. It would be a good time to go to a dual cylinder MC don't you think?
  4. interior looks fantastic. I use the heavy "Indian" blanket and works fine and preserves what is underneath.
  5. my 218 will pull hard in high gear at 20mph, I rarely downshift except when stopped. I believe the high gearing (390:1) gives the car phenomenal pulling power. put a good frame mounted hitch and set up the trailer brakes and try it. as to the brakes? I have a 65 Mustang that weighs far less than the Plymouth, and the Plymouth stops with far less pedal effort than the Mustang. I think you will be surprised as to the power the 218 has. My nickels worth.
  6. my first long trip with my 48 was from Tampa to Montgomery, about 450 miles one way, never gave any problems. I did run the two lanes though, don't like spinning the engine too fast, I ran 55-65 depending on speed limits. The 48plymouth is scary good, sits for a month, starts up by third revolution and runs sweet. I just want to change the rear gear to something a little faster. I would do the OD but the availability of them seems to have dried up.
  7. the way I adjusted my linkage was to remove both levers, put the trans in neutral, put the sift lever level, and adjust the rods to allow easy connection to the transmission levers. I to have deceleration second gear pop-out, I have a worn second gear on the mainshaft. I will replace that when I restore the body and change the rear axle ratio.
  8. well said Niel, I think you hit it on the head.
  9. # 3 cylinder is saying something! it may only be down 10lbs, but with low compression it is not 100% I would be looking at the valve gap, check the lift of the valves for a possible worn camshaft, check the side to side play for worn guides. My thoughts are you have valve leakage witch would require a valve grind. Just my 2 pennies.
  10. as rich as it appears to be running, I wonder if the rebuilder forgot to install the main jet? or put a wrong one in? something is allowing way to much fuel into the engine.
  11. I have used a tap to thread the inside of the bushing, then ran a bolt through to pull it out. 50 years working as mechanic at dealerships both auto and heavy truck and they never had a 'tool' to pull a bushing like that. replaced mine recently and the bushing is very thin, I used an awl to collapse the bushing, pulled the old one out and used a bushing installer to put the new one in, then load up the cavity with high temp grease for lubrication. this was on my 48 Plymouth.
  12. another scary culprit could be valve guides, had that problem with mine, bought new guides, pulled the head and no matter what could not get the guides out, so I knurled the bad ones, reground the seats and valves. I will wait until I rebuild the engine at a later time to have the guides replaced.
  13. if it wiggles in the bore, it's loose, should be no play, but not tight.
  14. the only repo parts I know of are the knobs for the shifter and lights, etc. I believe you are looking for a lost art.
  15. timing looks to be the culprit here, you replace the points, gapped them correctly, did you check the timing? if retarded, poor performance and the fuel will not burn properly. as the points wear, the timing changes. second clue, carb backfired, check the carb for a clogged vacuum port on the baseplate, remove carb to do this, you might have blown some carbon into it.
  16. I spent a full day replacing the felt with the rubber, no go still leaks, will go back to the felt when weather cools off.
  17. Ever hear of 'Royal Purple' driveway cleaner? works like a charm use full strength the wash it off with water, a little brushing helps for the caked on stuff.
  18. I will keep mine, runs like a watch and keeps going. Plenty of torque, and horsepower to keep up with traffic. the only change I will make is to go with OD or higher gear rear to drop the RPM's. Most of my driving is in the low to mid 60's and I don't like to spin the motor at 3000rpm's Just my Pennies worth!
  19. I have a 1965 Mustang along my 1948 Plymouth, and I just checked for the Mustang external vented filler cap and they are available and should fit. I will be doing the pcv adaption on the Plymouth when the weather gets cooler, 95 today with humidity, I hate humidity! check with National parts depot near you for part #67663. Have them verify the tube size the cap will fit.
  20. my question would be what would you use for fuel delivery, carb, aftermarket fuel injection or the original wiring and computer for the 3.6?
  21. I will not even start my engine unless I plan on driving at least 25 miles. short runs will build up moisture and cause the downdraft tube to smoke, it is the water being steamed off. I use Valvoline 20/50 and do not use any additives. The oil stays clean for the 3,000 miles to the next change
  22. I plan on updating my rear axle to something with higher gearing. has anyone done so and what gearing ratio gave better feul economy but still retained good torque. any help would be appreciated, thank you.
  23. I had a problem that it would not come loose, I installed the puller loosely on the hub, ran the center screw in tight, then tightened the lugs a little at a time and the hub popped off with a bang.
  24. I replaced the rear drums by removing the rivets that attach them to the rear axle hub, I then purchased new drums from Kanter (318.00 for two) but are solid cast drums without the hub assy. It is a tad tricky putting the lug bolts on but doable. I have been running this for a couple of years, they work very well.
  25. I run 35 - 37 psi, better wear, easier steering. The roads in Florida are very smooth compaired to to most states so running them hard is a smooth ride.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use