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yourpc48

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Everything posted by yourpc48

  1. Thanks for the update falconvan. Its nice to get feedback on this. Its been a while since I came up with the idea and process to convert this way and I wondered if people had been using the conversion and how they liked it.
  2. Hi Casper50. My very first post on this thread tells what years fit (however 5 pages in) its worth mentioning again. Its 95-2001 Ford Explorer 4wd Front Calipers and Rotors.
  3. Hi. I have revived the page on my website that has the PDF files on it. The link in the early posts should work again. I also have the files in the post I did on the HAMB website. I would have posted the files directly to this site as well but didnt know of a way to do that. I spent a couple of days recreating the subdomain and page info and also the pdf files so I could share it again. Heres a link to the page if you need it: http://car.icompute.info/disk_bake_bracket.htm I also have uploaded the files to the forum here. p15_d24_disk_brake_bracket.pdf brake bracket.pdf
  4. Looks like Im missing too. I tried to add myself again but I couldnt do it.
  5. You can not put into smilys how happy I am for you. That is fantastic!
  6. Yeah. I read this article before I did the swap. If you use the HEI you can leave the points dizzy in if you want to. They no longer need to produce the charge they had to with the regular coil system so they dont burn out (from what I understand). The points are only acting as a trigger to send the message to fire. The best of both worlds would be to convert the slant 6 dizzy into your car so you dont have parts that can wear out (the points would still wear on the cam in the dizzy) and then put the HEI on instad of using the big MOPAR electronics box. Problem solved and the HEI will give you a huge spark. Make sure to gap the plugs wider if you go to the HEI instead of the MOPAR box.
  7. Yes it does. The outside of the dizzy where it goes into the block has to be turned down slightly to fit in the hole. It was really easy to do. It was harder to find a good diagram of how it should be wired than it was to convert the distributor. I purchased one used and the wiring to the pickup inside was brittle and broke the shielding on the wires as I was puting it in the car so I ended up buying a rebuilt one at the auto parts store for about $15 more than I paid for the used one. It made a difference in the way the car ran and knowing that I wouldnt have to change points again was worth it. I was into the conversion (Not counting the used dizzy that I didnt use) for about $100. It would have been more but I turned down the outside of the Dizzys housing to fit the hole in the block. While I had the guts out of the housing I put a long bolt through and put washers and nuts in the right places so it didnt damage the new bushings and then chucked it up in the drill. I got the file and sand paper out along with a caliper and carefully took off material untill it fit. If I could afford it I would have taken it to a machine shop with the old dizzy for more accuracy. The plugin for the module on the firewall was really expensive too (at the parts store). I opted to put individual connectors on the wires and plug them in although it would look much cleaner if you use a factory type plug. You may get a better deal on eBay for the connector. I went with a single balast resistor system to cut down on the amount of wiring needing to be done. I dont have the car any more so I cant take pictures but I remember how most of it went together if you need help. Have fun..... Dale
  8. :):):) So happy for you. glad youre doing well.
  9. yourpc48

    New guy

    Thats Perty. Great job. Looks super nice. I like the exhaust manifold covers.
  10. yourpc48

    New guy

    That is awesome! Keep up the good work. Youll be driving it in no time....
  11. The front brakes were done. I had just picked up an Explorer rear end, driveshaft and Explorer master cylinder but did not get them into the car before I sold it. I wanted to take that money and invest it in my wifes business so I sold the car. After we get it going I shouldnt have a problem building another car. I am also keeping the disk brake template so I can convert the brakes on it too. (As long as its a p15)
  12. yourpc48

    New guy

    Looks good. Dont forget to put a trans cooler on it and if you run rubber hose make sure its a high pressure hose. I made the mistake of using regular fuel line hose on mine and blew the line out right away. Of course this was over 20 years ago in my twenties. I have not done that again. Lesson learned I guess.
  13. I totally understand your frustration. Hope the idea of the other kit works out for your situation.
  14. Unfortunately I sold my car a couple of weeks ago. Sorry to hear that your uprights are such a problem. There is a brake conversion kit I have seen in some threads that looks like it has the plate on the front side of the spindle. I wish I knew which kit it was but maybe you can find it. Im sure if you can figure out a way of getting the plate on the other side of the spindle you would be better off. I dont have a car to mock it up on any more but I have a set of brakes that came off my Caravan that my have a shallower depth. It is a smaller diameter though. With some work it may be able to be adapted. Would you like me to take a measurement on it and compare it to the Explorer spare that I have on hand? It would be cool if you could get that plate swapped to the other side. Let me know.
  15. In this instance I would then do what the people that have purchased some kits do. I would drill and contersink into the back of the steering arm and then tap the spindle holes. Then you can use a flat head bolt with allen head in it to tighten. I have seen a couple of articles where they did this. Here is one of them: http://www.rodandcustommagazine.com/techarticles/135_0501_1951_plymouth_suburban_wagon/index.html That would probably clear up the issue if you dont have enough drop in the spindle. Also if someone was creative the 9/16 bolts could be run the other direction through the inside to the outside but then the bolts and nuts would have to be trimmed for correct clearance and also the nuts and bolts would definitly have to be drilled and wired or pinned to assure that the nuts would stay on. I used locking nuts but they would be way too fat to fit between the spindle and rotor. Just thinking about it from all angles
  16. It should be no different than any pre made kit that bolts to the back of the spindle. I have seen brake kits that bolt to the back side of the spindle and ones that bolt to the front side of the spindle to accomodate different rotor and caliper combos. The way I did mine it bolts to the back of the spindle and as mentioned above the bolts are a little longer so they might hit on the lower control arm. Mine cleared but I did not have drop spindles on mine. I had the factory setup. I should also add a note here: I have found out that "some" of the aftermarket rotors have a slightly smaller opening in the back than the factory rotors and may cause a fit problem. I have had 2 members say that with the new rotors they purchased they needed to turn down the outside edge of their hubs about 1/16th inch to make sure that no matter where they get their rotor it will fit the hub.
  17. LOL. Go ahead and post it up on my thread if you want. I was told that only the P15 spindles will be able to use the bracket as scanned the way I made mine. The 46-48 Plymouth had their own spindles. If you can get it to work with a slight modification that would be great.
  18. Thats Like cheating. Like I said. Better shop and better tools are nice.
  19. Wow thats much cleaner looking than my quickey version. I wish I had a better place to work on my projects and better equipment. I like the clean lines and nice edges on your bracket. Keep it up.
  20. Thank you for the tip. Who would have thought that the replacement part would be different? I did see that on the other thread but thought it might have been because of the difference in years (39 Dodge not 47 Plymouth).
  21. I had to go back and get different ones than the ones he found but the ones I finally ended up with were a Dorman # H38748. It looks like they were for a Mazda 323 85-95 depending on model. Here is another factory crossover part number B092-43-980. The banjo end is round so I was able to adjust the angle better than the square end of the Ford type line. Also the banjo is just a hair bigger than the bolt but sealed just fine. Hope that helps.......... Dale
  22. I think that when you came up with your idea to move the arm forward as part of your bracket design it was an "ah ha" moment (smacking forehead with palm) for several people including myself. Great idea!
  23. I had to put the scanned images on my website because the file size was just a little too big to put on the forum. You can find the scanned images here: http://car.icompute.info/disk_bake_bracket.htm If all is correct, you should be able to click the image you want and then print it. It should automatically be the right size to print on an 8.5 x 11 sheet of paper. PM me if you have any problems.
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