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Dan Hiebert

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Everything posted by Dan Hiebert

  1. A couple months ago I scored a Chrysler Model 36 under dash heater unit. I'm currently rebuilding it to replace the aftermarket under dash unit (which has never worked) that has been in the car since we've owned it. The aftermarket unit has the defroster vent on the driver's side of the unit, while on the Model 36 it is on the passenger side. The defroster vent cable on our car is 26 1/2" from the nut securing it to the dash, to the end of the spiral shroud. Does anyone know if that will be long enough to reach over the Model 36 heater to the "new" defroster vent location? The cable/shroud has to reach over the unit to the cable clamp on the vent in order to work properly. The unit is still disassembled, waiting for a key part to reassemble it, elsewise I'd have tested the fit already. Just trying to get a jump on a part search if necessary. Thanks!
  2. The Wiscasset, Waterville, & Farmington Railway Museum in Alna, ME has a 2ft. gauge Plymouth "diesel/hydraulic" locomotive in their collection that dose the brunt of their heavy work. Apparently, 2ft. narrow gauge railroads were a thing in Maine until WW2, there are still 3 of them operating as tourist destinations.
  3. Nice. My favorite grouse gun is either my Ruger 10/22 (iron sights) or Ruger 77/22 (scoped). Both are nail drivers, which one I use depends on how thick the forest is where I plan to hunt. Shots past 15 yards are rare around here, most are within 5 yards or so. But I'll take a scattergun when hunting with buddies, darn birds don't sit still long enough for a .22 shot when there's a group of us in the field, too much noise.
  4. Trunk latch from a P15 won't fit on the D24. I tried that once...it'll bolt on, but the shaft on the lever is too short.
  5. You have to be a Maine resident for the age waivers, unless someone who draws a tag lists you as the second on their tag. Guides ("Registered Maine Guide") and guided hunts abound here, but best option in my book is just to find someone who hunts regularly and is familiar with the woods, folks up here like to share the hunting experience just as much as actually taking a moose. Someone will draw a tag, and have a host of buddies tag along just to help. In Maine, a guide has to be certified by, and registered with, the State to take any compensation.
  6. I, too, like to maintain my stuff. The pride I get in finishing things well also comes with keeping my equipment and tools maintained and in good working order. Sometimes that's all it takes to have even "cheaper" tools and equipment last a good long time. A few years ago, my son was doing a brake job for someone with my tools. He was beating the heck out of a wrong size SAE socket to get it to work, without asking me for the right size socket that was in the metric drawer. He said "it's just a socket", an attitude he got from auto tech co-workers in NY, and certainly not from me. Their culture seems to be to break tools whenever possible and replace them as a measure of how good a mechanic they are, rather than take good care of them so they'll take good care of you. I reminded him that it was among the first tools I bought, and significantly older than him. It registered, but he quit using my tools after that. Good score with that jack, the only problems you'll have will be those small wheels on the loose ground, otherwise you'll find it's hard not to have one from now on.
  7. Good hunt! I was once again skunked in Maine's moose lottery, we're in the middle of the season right now. I can hunt vicariously through your adventures when you post. The State changed the rules last year so that one doesn't go forever without getting drawn (as has happened to a few folks I know), but it still takes 30 continuous years of not getting drawn to be eligible. Under 16 and over 65 can get a moose tag fairly quickly, tho. (Still have a while to wait for the latter.) We'll see. Thanks for posting!
  8. Ditto. Testor's model paint, and I used the fiberglass etching pen to prep, too. Good quality brush(es) recommended. Pleased with the results and has endured pretty well. I have read of some folks using fingernail polish, but have never read any follow-up on how well it goes on or holds up.
  9. First Mopar experience was my second car (first was a '67 Fairlane wagon that met its demise vs. a cow in southern Texas after only a few months of ownership) in 1980, a 1966 Chrysler Imperial Crown. The girls called it a "baby limo" and it ran like a scalded ape. Joined the Army and my mom gave it as payment to the guy that fixed her roof. Oh, well. Fast forward through the years discovering Mopar products always seem to fit the bill, to the most recent Mopar experience, and washed the sorta spankin' new 2019 (Dodge...don't seem to be able to call it just a) Ram pick-up today. Yeah, yeah, not something to blow one's skirt up, but I did take my uncle for a spin in the trusty ol' D24 last week. Although we've had the D24 for 28 years now, he'd never even seen the car before.
  10. 7500 is more than fair. Insurance requested that we value our "regular" D24 4dr sedan at $10,800. Your car would be an easy 11 or 12K because of its relative scarcity in comparison. But there's just not a huge market for them. Yours is in about the same cosmetic shape as our car, and everything works on ours. I would recommend getting the brakes done before you sell, if you can, not that hard and folks always appreciate it more when a car is actually drivable (sometimes subject to interpretation). There are several valuation guides on the market (that are also subject to interpretation) that can get you pointed in the right direction for price. I used to go to Barnes & Noble, find a valuation guide, and look up a car in question. Then put the book back on the shelf. If I was hunting for something, I would get the book. But I'd also suggest keeping the car for a bit, you seemed awful excited about it for a while there. Nothing sez you have to have it on the road now, and later you may wish you had kept it. Of course that's contingent on storage space, etc. Just a thought.
  11. Ditto. Worn valve guides.
  12. They're kind of like pick-up trucks and basements. Once you have one it's hard not to have one again. We borrowed my brother-in-laws to clean the house when we lived in west New York, twenty minutes to do what would have otherwise taken a day or two. I had to have one after that. Harbor Freight has a run on the electric ones every spring up here. Relatively inexpensive and they fly off the shelves, so they must either work well...or only last a year.
  13. I have a 2500 psi gas powered one that we use several times a year. I have yet to use it on any of our cars, but will try it out on the Terraplane's frame come spring, I wouldn't use it on a good painted surface. I have to clean Mother Nature's attempts to reclaim my trailers at least once a year, generally mid summer to get the remains of fall leaves, spring seeds, seedlings, hornets' nests, and such out of the cracks and gaps. I have to use it on the roof of the shop every other year to get the lichens off to extend the life of the shingles, and every other year on the deck before I paint it. I use it every spring to clean the garage floor, to get all the winter dirt and salt off the floor and out of the garage. I also need it to clean the exterior of our house, which turns green if you don't keep it clean. We didn't "need" a power washer until we moved to Maine and found the need to wash Maine off of stuff so it would last longer, or at least look like it's lasting longer. I have heard of folks having issues with the pumps if they don't use them on a regular basis, especially if you have hard water.
  14. You asked earlier, I don't see a reply - yes, the D24 engine is 230ci.
  15. Yeah, but if this thread keeps popping up I'll have to change my demographic after a while (as will everyone else ). By the way, thanks, like I really needed the reminder that I have another year under my belt - If I live to be 100, I'm over half dead...
  16. Not an issue worth overthinking in my book. Option 1 - A voltage reducer will keep the 6v motors alive for a long time. Keep in mind they simply were not engineered to run as fast as or as hot as they will with 12v, and will burn out after a while if not run off of a reducer. If you don't want the added accouterment of a reducer behind the dash for whatever reason; Option 2 - it is relatively simple to retrofit 12v motors and not worry about voltage reduction or amperage. The hardest part is getting the counter guy/gal to find the right motor for you.
  17. I pondered collecting license plates when I started monkeying around with these old cars, but decided I needed to draw a line on collecting everything I had a fancy for. But, I still keep the plates for States our cars have been registered in over the years (except NY, they demanded the plates back...not just requested at the time we registered the cars, but sent us demands after we moved...or else). I'll pick up unique ones on occasion that have pertinence to us, or try to find YOMs for what cars we have (although 1948 Maine plates are out of my price range). My favorites are NJ Firefighter plates from my father-in-law's cars.
  18. The rear bolt that mounts the generator bracket to the motor on our D24 has a stud where the positive cable is attached to the engine. Cable is routed under the generator (could go either way, but under is tidier to me).
  19. As Greg noted, before the imposition of the VIN, each State did its own thing, that's the short version. The individual States were in conflict (read: opinionated) over which component of the car actually constituted the car; was it the engine, the frame, the body, etc.? Once the VIN requirement was established, that was settled. We've had our D24 registered in five States - Texas, New Mexico, Michigan, New York, and now Maine. We didn't register it as an antique in New York, because it was cheaper to register it as a "regular" car, but the DMV clerk still asked about the number because it "didn't conform to VIN standards" - which prompted a call to the DMV office supervisor, who had to override the input flag, which in turn prompted a query as to whether it was the engine or serial number. They didn't have an issue with it, just a procedural thing. All of them just carried forward the number on the last State's title, but there were provisions to change it to the engine number if we wanted to, but that was up to us, not the State.
  20. FWIW - I used that chromed vinyl stuff on our D24 going on 25 or 26 years ago now. It did not hold up well, started getting dull within five years, and wearing through within six or seven years after installed.
  21. Yeah, open to the elements in Arizona is not particularly good, especially if you don't know how long it sat without a carburetor. Wind blown sand and dust, not to mention wee (sometimes not so wee) desert creatures seeking shelter. At least with it not running, none of that has been sucked into the engine, just means taking it apart to see what's going on before you spend too much more time and money on it, as Los Control suggests, is the way to go if you're entertaining using that engine. Personally, I like to retain original engines in cars as much as possible, but if they're beyond repair I have no issues "upgrading". What those head bolts mean is that the head was off in the past for some reason, chasing that reason down if you can may save some heartburn down the road. Sometimes we can never figure out why a PO did something.
  22. Welcome to the Forum! As suggested, look about herein for ideas, what others have done, issues that have been solved, etc. Everything you're thinking out loud about has been done and covered somewhere in this Forum, good searches (which I'm not good at) will usually land an answer for you. Unless you say otherwise, we tend to assume you've got at least some automotive mechanical ability and answer accordingly. If you don't, that's certainly not a problem here, just modifies the answers accordingly. There's quite a few folks here that genuinely like teaching others, sometimes whether they realize it or not. There is a Links Directory at the top of the page with numerous sources that is a good place to start browsing. I would echo that, unless you plan to jump right into a restoration or restomod and get the car finished as soon as you can, prioritizing what you want to get done and when with the car will help alleviate that overwhelmed feeling. Like Sam said, one bite at a time. (27 years and still working on ours...)
  23. Dan Hiebert


    In my case, I don't post photos directly from my camera or phone, I keep photo files on the hard drive. That's just me, I don't opt to store photos on the device that took them. I open whatever photo I want to post, prompt Windows 10 to "resize" it (via a right-click on the image), and it gives me four options, one of which it specifies is best for emails. I'll save that to my desktop where I can find it quickly and easily and post from there. I used to have to email photos to myself, save the photo to the computer, then post from there. That automatically resized them. Much easier with the upgraded operating system.
  24. A few Amish communities in these parts, therefore lots of horse drawn buggies and wagons on the roads, leaving lots of this on the roads...what the locals call "road apples".
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