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Dan Hiebert

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Dan Hiebert last won the day on October 27 2018

Dan Hiebert had the most liked content!

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About Dan Hiebert

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands
  • Birthday 08/21/1961

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Ludlow, ME (near Houlton, beginning/end of I-95)
  • Interests
    Old cars (duh), anything outdoors, running marathons, homebrewing, cuckoo clocks, and German Folkmusic
  • My Project Cars
    1948 Dodge D24, 1937 Hudson Terraplane, and 1970 VW Beetle (driver)


  • Location
    Wheatfield, NY
  • Interests
    Old cars (duh), antiques in general, running marathons, homebrewing.

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  • Occupation
    Retired Chief Patrol Agent for the U.S. Border Patrol's Houlton Sector

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  1. Aaah, finally, our adopted right of passage into "spring" in northern Maine. Temp outside was higher than inside the shop, and above freezing overnight forecast for a week or more - so - put the water hose reel outside the shop, turned on the water to the shop, and turned off the pellet stove (albeit not decommissioned for the season - yet). But we still have "feet" of snowbanks and a few patches under the trees.
  2. Excellent thread, thanks for posting your ongoing adventures with your D24! We also have a 48 D24, although a 4dr sedan. It was a piece of junk when we got it in 1991, so I've had to do a lot of work on it, just not a full blown restoration. We haven't had any troubles with it for several years now, but I'm sure that won't last. I've got some "puttering around" things I want to do with it, but nothing I'd consider major, and I sometimes get ideas for things I need to do or check from this Forum. I'd like to read more about that "different" carburetor you installed and how the car has responded, particularly using the fluid drive feature, since the original carb has a retarded throttle return to keep the car from stalling if one chooses to leave the car in a higher gear and not use the clutch. This is my favorite forum among the several I haunt, welcome aboard!
  3. Ditto PA's guidance. Our D24 had this issue when we got it (except that for one door the rotor was completely missing), a good cleaning and lubricating brought the handles back to horizontal. I know of some folks that look at that and deem the shaft twisted, thus not repairable, which 99.9% of the time is just not so.
  4. The two differences I see between your alignment procedure and that described in the service manual (I have manuals for both the P15 and D24): 1 - Weight of the car, unloaded, is supposed to be on the (level) ground. Book doesn't specify turntables or anything, but it works easier if the tires can move freely, putting them on a few layers of newspaper works; 2 - This is where I had the same problem you note with the long tie rod, except I had the same initial results with both sides (I wrote notes in my manual, elsewise I wouldn't have remembered this - duh), loosen ALL tie rod end clamps, and adjust both at the same time in opposite directions to each other, for the proper toe-in/out, not each side separately. I had done what you did to get the overall measurements close and center the steering wheel after I had removed and rebuilt the steering box. Then I wanted to get the toe-in/out alignment down and stayed with trying each side separately - didn't work well until I loosened everything. I don't remember if I figured out why it works that way, I just noted it to emphasize to myself to follow the service manual procedures next time. That may be a bit of overkill, since you were just trying to get it close to get it to a shop. This may or may not help, from the manual: "Lengthening the short tie rod moves the steering wheel center spoke to the right. Lengthening the long tie rod moves the spoke to the left. One full turn of the tie rod will change the front wheel position one half inch, and will move the steering wheel about three and one half inches, measured at the rim." So, if you were turning one tie rod at a time, you were probably moving the steering wheel, not the road wheel. When I did it one side at a time, neither wheel moved, but I was under the car and didn't notice if the steering wheel moved or not. I re-read the procedure, had the "ah-hah" moment, then centered everything up again and started over.
  5. Any good auto paint shop should be able to mix paint based on the original code, regardless if the original paint maker can. Paints themselves are different now, so the tone may still be off a hair. I know some NAPA stores can do it, too, that's where I had the last batch done for one of my paint jobs. Many shops have the equipment needed to analyze paint for proper formulas, too.
  6. Patience, Grasshopper. Nothing wrong with your post or problem presentation. Like me, many folks here won't chime in if they don't have a good answer, or at least an educated guess. I have to go out to the shop to consult my manual to see if something was missed - which I'm hesitant to do right now since we had a good old fashioned northern Maine spring snow storm overnight that dumped 8 inches of snow that I haven't plowed, yet. I'm intrigued for an answer myself. Your string alignment is a good start, that's how I had to do our D24 several years ago, since none of the shops in western NY would do it. Only good tool I had for the job was a pair of turntables (the tires still have to move freely if the car's weight is on them - perhaps something to consider with your issue?) I've found a shop here in northern Maine that will do it, but they would have to use the string/measure method, too, no one up here has an alignment rack these old cars will fit on.
  7. The roundish pieces are indeed the blower covers for those kick panel heaters, the Y shaped part is what splits the coolant flow from the engine to each of those kick panel heaters.
  8. Yeah, I don't recall exactly off hand, but these cars weigh less than 3,000 pounds, a bit surprising for their appearance. Heck, I had a 2013 Beetle that weighed over 2,000 lbs more than our four-door D24.
  9. Dan Hiebert


    That's a mess. I've never liked getting someone else's project where they didn't remove any of the old wiring when installing "new" wiring for whatever purpose. I've found it easer to just remove all the old stuff and start fresh, that way it's the way you want it. Unless you suddenly develop a passion for wiring cars and want to rewire it again later, I'd rewire for 12v with your end goal in mind so you'll have one less challenge when that time comes. Basic circuits for the good ol' flathead for now, with additional room/circuits for the needs of that 5.7 in the future. But as PA noted, if you wire for 12v you have to stick with it, wiring for 6v will easily transition to 12v (not the other way around tho) but there is additional cost due to heavier gauge requirements of 6v..
  10. When I was in the Army in the '80s, there were still a good number of Vietnam veterans still in service in the senior NCO and officer ranks. We tended to listen to them more often than the other leadership. A few had a couple of loose screws, but all of them knew what they were doing, and more importantly, why. I'm not talking the nebulous reasons for a war, but how to get the job done and stay more or less in one piece during one. When we went to Grenada my platoon had one of the very, very few Vietnam vets as its platoon sergeant / leader (no Lt.). That was just a bar-fight compared to other conflicts, but we had a few scraps that the SFC saw us through with just a few scratches. When I joined the Border Patrol, just under half the organization were Vietnam vets (total BP number was 3k at the time), those guys were a hoot to learn from and work with. That video is a good reminder that the U.S. wasn't the only nation fighting for democracy in Vietnam, we just had the largest presence, thanks for posting. And thanks to all the Vietnam vets out there - for many reasons. Glad you'uns made it home, just wish there had been more that did.
  11. Ditto above, with addition to ensure good grounds for electrical.
  12. Good to see ya out and about, we've got another month of keeping it indoors (still 3-4 feet of snow on the ground, and the roads are horrible with potholes and frost heaves), so the inspiration is welcome!
  13. I would strongly recommend removing the dash from the car and disassembling it. Yes, it is a quasi-PIA to do, but you'll be much happier with the effort (vs. trying to paint it in the car) and most of all the results. You can also take the opportunity to address any behind-the-dash and firewall issues you care to once it's out, to include perhaps painting the back of the dash if needed - which you can't do if it's still in the car without making a complete mess. I painted the dash and inside window moldings on our D24 almost 20 years ago using plain old Rustoleum "Leather Brown". The original wood graining was far too gone to restore, and I wanted something I could easily touch-up, or redo relatively quickly. It looks good, and the dash is holding up extremely well, although the window moldings are taking a bit of a beating since the grandkids started riding in the car a few years ago. Alas, no photos I can get to in short order, they're on a messed up MSD that I don't feel like paying $500 to restore just yet.
  14. I'd get the missus cast iron or steel skillets, but she'd probably use them against me. As in upside my noggin... (She says they only work best on gas stoves, which we've never had.)
  15. I hope we (U.S. drivers) don't find ourselves heading the direction where everyone is better off with a dash-cam. There's a reason there are so many "Russians are Crazy" driving videos on YouTube - they have so much fraud and insurance scams over there that you're taking a chance not having a dash-cam. (Although the videos sure make for good time killing, and thanking my stars I don't drive over there...)
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