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thekid1950

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    14
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About thekid1950

  • Rank
    Junior Member, just joined the forum !

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • My Project Cars
    1949 Plymouth Wagon

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    Love traveling adventures
  • Occupation
    retired

Converted

  • Location
    Central NY
  • Interests
    Anything old cars

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  1. About to install tubeless tires on my 49 Plymouth Wagon. Do you guys know if the wheels will hold air? Thank you Carl
  2. After watching the video, I finely realize what I was missing When the thermostat opens a lower part of the thermostat closes the bypass. I never knew that NOW IT ALL MAKES SENSE!!!!
  3. PERFECT........much appreciate all the responses. That Video is priceless!
  4. Yes, I believe in thermostats & would never run without one I think Greg just misunderstood my question with his reply to me. I was thinking of using a modern thermostat (without the bypass feature) but was afraid the bypass was important. Now I have a better understanding of the bypass & will continue to use it.
  5. Ken Thanks......that is what I thought might be the case.....trying to avoid hot spots prior to thermostat opening. I've seen some talk before about using a modern stat instead of a bypass one. I've been to NAPA...their bypass stat doesn't fit in my (49) housing. I do have a NOS bypass stat I can use Apparently, the bypass allows block water to get to the water pump which then sends it back thru the block & so forth I have other old cars & I usually leave the heater in the on position (without the fan operating) to act like a bypass before the thermostat opens My Plymouth heater core leaks so it is disconnected.....I have a hose that goes from the bypass fitting to the rear of the block where the heater usually returns to water.....I'm sure this also helps avoid hot spots.
  6. 1949 Plymouth Special Deluxe I'm cleaning up my cooling system. New Radiator, New water pump, New thermostat, New hoses.... I don't use my heater....it is DISCONNECTED. Question? Should I get a bypass thermostat that will allow the system to operate as designed? It appears to me the bypass just provides hot water to the heater. Is there any other function of the bypass? Otherwise, I will just use a modern thermostat.... Am I missing something?????? Thank you!
  7. i solved my problem. i cut the horizonal brace in front of the radiator. Had to cut 1" x .25" on both sides. Now the radiator is mounted within the U channel radiator bracket thus moving the radiator forward about .50" The fan now has adequete clearance. Thank you for all the replies.
  8. The radiator is supposed to fit....It's a CHAMPION 3 row........maybe I should have gone with a 2 row. The water pump is new & matches the old one. I think it's correct. The water pump hub is pressed on correctly...maybe a 1/16" clearance to the water pump housing. The hub is 1 1/8" in diameter. Modern fan blades come with a much smaller hole.
  9. Because there is a brace in the way. Just in front of the top tank, there is a brace that goes from side to side. This brace prevents moving the radiator forward. I could trim the brace about .25" which might allow mounting the radiator on the grill side of the mounting bracket. That might be a solution.
  10. I'm replacing radiator with an aluminum unit. The core is a little too thick & the stock fan touches the radiator. I either need to return the radiator & get a thinner one or I need to find an aftermarket fan that will fit. Most aftermarket fans will work nicely providing even more blades.....BUT I can't find one with a hole large enough to fit the water pump shaft. All comments will be appreciated. Thanks...Merry Christmas
  11. That's the kind of advice I'm looking for. If it's a 2 hour job I could do it in my driveway. If I have to remove the hood then it's in the garage in case I don't finish it in one setting.
  12. Yes it's a stock 49. The fan is so close to the radiator that it needs to come off....maybe even the water pump.
  13. I should have introduced myself. I'm mid sixties. I love anything old & tinkering. I've had old cars for over 40 years. 37 ford, 39 Chevy, 40 Pontiac, 46 Chevy, 48 Chevy, 49 Plymouth, 50 studebaker, 50 ford, 50 Hudson, 51 Chevy pickup, 52 Hudson. I've removed radiators on almost all of them at one time or another. Luckily I've never had to tear down an engine. I've done all the normal maintenance & minor repair items, water pumps, carbs, hoses, adjust valves, tune ups, brakes, installed a/c, converted to 12 volts & alternators, replaced both front & rear springs, removed steering box etc. I'm not a novice, but I'm not a mechanic either. I also use my cars and I have over 40,000 miles of old car adventures. Crossed the US 5 times. That includes road side repairs. I've only been stranded once.....knock on wood! My experience has been that asking help from fellow old car people sometimes gets you on the right path. My son & I looked the Plymouth over for a half an hour. Came to the conclusion that the hood needs to come off. Told my son it's time to ask on the forum....then we'll have the right game plan. Any particular advice is welcomed. Thank you.
  14. What is the best procedure to remove the Radiator The bolts seem impossible to get at. I'm guessing remove the following: battery, heater, water pump, hood??? I've never seen such a difficult job for the radiator. Most cars is super easy. Please help.
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