Adam H P15 D30

There was a level playing field then, everyone had drum brakes... Not so even now

For you rural folks, I'm sure they do. Try them in San Francisco traffic / hills and get back to us...

@keithb7Send them out for ceramic coating, it will look like new for years. Enjoying your videos on YouTube!

A lot of factors caused the Ford phaser issues but running the recommended 5/20 oil accelerated the problem. Most recommended 5/30 or even 5/40 with higher mileage modulars. It’s the 5 that matters for cold flow. 5/40 sure quieted my 250k old modular F150 up.

It always flows through it's orfice as long as there is manifold vacuum and not backfiring. I am almost positive the application is GM 2.8L V6, the rubber gromet I found in a box store's help section so I do not know the application. EDIT: Maybe 3.8L, it's been a few years

If you go this route, check out a Slant 6 conversion. All done with off the shelf O.E. parts for ~$100.00 or so.

Not quite sure what you mean by "all or nothing" but this PCV I am using has a metered orfice (like all PCV valves) and a constant flow provided there is manifold vacuum. I just cut my draft tube off and rotated it 180 degrees. I think you could do the same with the one you show above.

You can build your own PCV system for a few bucks...

Warning, skip if you don't like long answers with examples and skip if you're not into tuning an engine: This is the information you need to know for the engine to run properly. As for using the manual for this type of tuning, it will work so-so but you are definitely leaving a lot on the table. If you're willing to actually tune your engine, keep reading... Here's why you don't want to use an 80+ year old manual in this case. History: Over the past years I have applied my career in the chemical analysis business (aka refineries) to tuning my cars to today's fuels. When your manual was written, the fuel available was what is called "straight run gasoline." Straight run gas is basically what boiled off the top of a distillation tower and condensed into the fuel your manual was written around (think moonshining). Very volatile and very low octane compared to what is available now and that's where the refining ended due to the technology of the time. During WW2, there was a need to fly higher and faster which required much higher cylinder pressures to and in turn required high octane fuel. It was found that high octane fuels could be found in the heavy oils at the bottom of the distillation towers (where the fuel oil and asphalt lives) but the molecules will have to be cracked using a catalyst. Cat-cracking was born out of this need and the cracked fuel is now blended with straight run fuel to get desired octane and volatility which are all much different that what was available pre WW2 when your manual was written. There is much, much more to this but I am not in class and it will get off topic, but you get the basics. Tuning: First, close your manual and put it on the shelf... Leave the vacuum advance out of this part for now. Get a dial advance timing light. Make sure your timing indicator is correct. With the small bore of our engines, I have found they don't like a lot or need of advance at speed and you also figured that out. I think I ended up about 20-22 degrees total advance @2500 RPM. This is the most important number you need to know, all other numbers need to be tuned in with springs and governors, but you have to be willing... It is possible to have too much advance without pinging especially with low compression. When I did my slant 6 distributor mod, I searched high and low for a 9R governor. This governor allowed 9 degrees of DISTRIBUTOR mechanical advance which equals 18 degrees of crankshaft advance. This allowed me to run 4 degrees of idle advance and maintain a good idle. Since distributor governors are not available for our originals, the advance slots can be welded and filed to achieve the desired amounts of mechanical advance and idle advance. This will allow you to run a much leaner idle mixture, much cooler temps and better drivability. I will probably weld my 9R governor and file to a 6 to allow more initial advance, but I haven't gotten to it in the last several years. The vacuum advance is an economy only thing and probably be used as-is with no mods. For those that use the Slant 6 distributor, make a shim to restrict vacuum advance to about 10-15 degrees total. A lot of time - Yes! Noticeable improvement - Yes! Hope this helps someone... This is a lot of work, if you are not interested the manual settings will work ok.

@38plymouth What's your total mechanical advance at about 2500 RPM?

RE: Painting large, flat panels - I start on one side, work to the middle, go to the other side and continue from the middle to the other side. When it comes to horizontal panels, I make the last coat wetter than I would dare on a side panel. As Kencombs says, make sure you are not fighting the air hose. I lay out 2 hoses, 1 on each side of the vehicle. I will be painting my 56 Panel in a couple of months, I don't think I will be able to avoid dry spots on that roof no matter what I do

Had a set of front wheel bearings squeak like birds right before they seized to the spindle. Thought is was a speedo cable till they let go.

If you're removing the MC, remove the floor and take it out from the top.

I did it from under the vehicle. Took the rubber check valve out of the metal holder and reinstalled the metal piece. Took about 20 minutes including bleeding the master.

Yes, it's the rubber check valve closest to the rear of the master cylinder.

Maybe someone here can post the fuel sender values from the shop manual here and help a guy out?

I do not know the factory sender resistance values to match the gauge. If you can find the values, compare them with your sender and you will probably find your issue.

54 - 331 is a unique engine... It most likely has the large valve / large port heads, same as the coveted 555 heads less the water ports. That intake is a wet version and the 4bbls are a 1 year only (I believe). Don't toss it if you go aftermarket!! Is it an extended bellhousing block or short? Probably short.

Might want to look at the Slant 6 conversion instead of points. O.E. reliable parts and no Pertronix junk.

If the sender has the incorrect resistance, it won't work on 6v or 12v. My fuel gauge read the same on both 6v and 12v, I added a Runtz resistor because they are cheap and probably nicer to the gauge.

Oil discussions..... Always lively I think we can all agree, oil has made significant improvements over the last 70 years, right? Multi weights of the 50s were marginal at best, right? All opinion with lots of links to prove one way or another. aka ZINC Claims about "old engines are looser" or had larger tolerances than today's engines can easily be proven or disproven. These claims are often perpetuated here and all other automotive forums but let's take a look. Let's compare our engine to a modern 5.7l HEMI and we shall see... Rod bearing clearance: 230cu 0.0005 to 0.0015 / 5.7l 0.0007 to 0.0029 ----- oops Main bearing clearance: 230cu 0.0005 to 0.0015 / 5.7l 0.0009 to 0.002 ---- another oops Now that we have established our flatheads are actually built with slightly tighter bearing tolerances, this is where is gets less about the numbers... Modern engines have much shorter strokes and much much lighter reciprocating parts. Our long stroke, long heavy rod, fully skirted heavy pistoned engines are throwing ALOT more weight around. This is where a heavier oil is needed for a 'cushion' as the rod bearings are smashed into the journals by all this rotating mass. Though I did not look up these specs, I would expect our cylinder wall clearances to be larger due to the sheer mass of our pistons and the associated expansion rates that come with that mass. Another reason I advocate modern, lighter pistons on a rebuild. There is no logical reason to keep our lead slugs? Maybe cost? No oil recommendations from me, use what tickles you and I know what weight I prefer. As to the OP, if you are getting oil sucked UP through your valve guides, adding positive seals is not the correct approach, find and fix the issue.

I don't know what the actual impedance of a 6v coil is, MOST 12v canister coils are around 1.5 ohms. When measuring, the important thing to look for is an actual value. if the primary circuit or secondary circuit is open, the coil is bad.

Old mechanical fuel pump leaking into the crank case?

You pull the Waldo Grade at 70? Impressive

With the valves facing up I don't see a need... Some oil needs to get in there. I don't install any positive seals on my Hemi's exhaust valves for the same reason, they face up hill.