Adam H P15 D30

Save the gl1 for the transmission and just use a modern gl5 90wt oil for the rear.

I use undercoating inside the fenders only to prevent rock damage visible on the shiny side, applied over paint. Floor pans get painted with enamel with no undercoating. Sound deadener gets installed inside only after painting the metal.

FYI, I've had 6v horns on 12v in 2 of my hotrods for years. No problem and nice and loud!

Pretty sure these are the same size a early HEMI blocks. Hot Heads and others sell screw in core plugs for the issues I mentioned early in this thread. Easily installed in the car.

A Runtz resistor for your fuel gauge. Forget about the radio, you're also changing polarity. Disconnect it Wiper motor is probably vacuum operated Horns don't care Replace horn and starter relays. Starter doesn't care. Clock (if you have one) doesn't care. I used a mid 60s Dart heater blower motor (12v). Change out headlamps and light bulbs to their 12v equivalent. Swap your ammeter wires around since you're changing to negative ground. If you are running more than a 50a alternator, bypass the ammeter. Make sure you're wiring is in good shape or replace it!!

Can't help you with the seat belts as I only have lap belts front and back but I wanted to say that is a nice, clean looking interior.

Ice will crack your block long before any core plug will pop out. They are there to remove casting sand, any other function is a myth.

I clean and JB weld my core plugs in, mostly on Hemi engines that have a history of blowing them out on hard use. They use the same plugs as our flatheads and still come out when replacing.

May be at an extreme angle when the body is put back on and the suspension compresses

Are the shock mounts welded upside down?

The specs will be different if you plan to run radials.

Cut that clip off and splice it on to an original frame if you must, it might also be too wide... Frame swaps almost always end up looking like frame swaps.

Jack the front wheel off the ground and rock it top to bottom, up and down and look for movement in the kingpin area. Might as well check your tie rod ends while you're at it. Your smart phone should have an angle meter on it, check camber degrees with it before jacking the car up.

I would check your kingpin / bushings on the side that's wearing before anything else. Could also be a bent spindle Probably not toe because it's only 1 side. EDIT: Check wheel bearings also

I always pack the seals with grease to keep the springs from falling out.

Yes, just use less hardener when the outside temp goes up. Did you finish weld that panel before adding Bondo?

There's a low pressure switch available for this exact reason.

Oh and I used the 5 pin on one of my old builds with a boost switch. Worked great at retarding the timing over 10lbs of boost. Also works well when connected to Nitrous. Great little module!

Make sure to read carefully, the HEI module will fire when the points close instead of opening. This will cause to rotor to be out of phase with the cap. I tried this once and built a little inverter inside my (now unused) voltage regulator. It worked but in the end it was easier to convert a slant 6 distributor and much less complicated.

Vintage door knob... Why not?

If you mean Pertronix, definitely not nearly as reliable as a \6 conversion. Combine the \6 conversion with a GM HEI module and you're pretty much bullet proof. Can't say the same about Pertronix.

One question: Why risk it? Manual transmission lube is readily available and I too saw a shifting improvement with the MTL fluid. If GL-5 was the ONLY oil available then I understand but that's not the case. Put the right stuff in and forget about it for 5 years... Modern transmissions don't have yellow metal in them and most don't use gear oil anyway.

Here is one link for a GM 6. http://devestechnet.com/Home/HEIInstall Here is another link on the slant 6 forums https://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=15779 the slant 6 forum link is the most in depth

Just ask for a 1975 GM full size car module. It will be a 4 pin, you can see it on my firewall under the hood hinge here You need a heatsink, I used a spare I had from a 97 LT-1 swap. The module can require 10+ amps so a small battery wouldn't last long. 12v conversion is a must. -OR- convert a slant 6 POINT distributor and keep the points with 6v. I don't like the MOPAR units as they still need that troublesome ballast resistor I use my supply of Pertronix coils I save from the failed units I throw away. Or use an early 80's Mopar Lean Burn coil. Some canister coils don't like 12v running to them all the time. You can also change to an e-coil and increase your plug gap to .055 or so if you wish, I don't see the need and I don't like the look. You MUST change to resistor plugs and wires Been running it for several thousand miles now with zero issues.