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Adam H P15 D30

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Everything posted by Adam H P15 D30

  1. I'd check for something else wrong or loose for your bump steer. I have never had that issue with these front ends and unequal length steering rods.
  2. Exactly ^^^^^^^ Easy to disassemble / reassemble so no need to leave the metal part out.
  3. This is what you're looking for. I removed the rubber portion and reinstalled the metal part, no other valves added. Did it in the car..
  4. Check your old engine fans very carefully. Here's the one off my 49, made a hell of a racket when it let loose.
  5. When doing motor swaps, sometimes the OE suspension is not an option. Hence why I went with the front steer Camaro.
  6. Below is a list of the last 5 cars I built with IFS and my thoughts on each one. Maybe it will help you with your decision 1. 1947 Ford - Used a Volare clip - Probably the second best driving car I have! It rides excellent, handles well, good brakes, adjustable ride height. Cons: It has a massive steering box in a difficult place to deal with. If you can deal with that, good choice because you wont have to hack off your front frame to do it. Put about 80k on that car including multiple trips from California to Kentucky for the NSRA nats. I think an aftermarket company is making a smaller box now? 2. 1935 Ford - Used a TCI Mustang II kit with tubular control arms. No need to cut the frame on the Fords. Cons: Doesn't ride nearly as well as above and the steering is twitchy and I would give it a B-, but hey, it looks good. Don't drive this one as much but not because of the ride. 3. 1947 Plymouth coupe - Used a 2nd generation Camaro clip. Had to modify the radiator support to fit the steering box. Rides good and handles extremely well especially when you add the quick ratio steering box. Not twitchy at all like rack and pinion. Cons: It's too wide! I had to buy the Fatman narrow control arms to avoid buying silly looking wheels but that = $$$$$$ 4. 1956 Ford Panel truck - Again Mustang II but I used the welders series this time (same geometry) Rides better than the 35 and steering is a little less twitchy probably because it is heavier and longer. 5. 1949 Dodge - (My profile picture) Stock suspension with a Rusty Hope disc brake kit, no shock relocation, 1 coil cut. I drive this car a lot! Rain or shine! It doesn't even get a garage. On the road, this car rides the best BY FAR. It even handles acceptably, it's still a king pin suspension. I only wish it had power steering but that's only an issue when stopped and I am not as young as I once was. I will never put a rack and pinion in it because I prefer how steering box cars drive. Some time back a member here put a ?Mustang? power steering box in and it didn't require a ton of fab work. Best of all, our quirky pitman arm fit the sector. I would search for that thread but it was a long time ago.
  7. As bad as California is, I am so glad we don't have to go through these BS inspections and argue with a 20 year old about 70 year old suspension parts. Did you have to drive it in the stall for him because it has 3 pedals on the floor?
  8. You can thin and spray Rustoleum with good results. On the can it states up to 10% I think but I mix it 2:1 with acetone and 10% enamel hardener. If it's going to live outside, you can clear it with any good quality automotive urethane clear for the UV protection.
  9. My instructions don't have page 7, otherwise identical. Funny, on page 7 he mentions the spindle nut issue but in prior pages the pictures clearly show the spindle nut correctly installed. I would choose the third option for the spindle nut.
  10. Instructions haven't changed. Maybe you're not getting the spacer on all the way? I had to tap mine on FWIW, Unlikely to mess up a 5/8 fine thread bolt with a 1/2 inch impact unless you can't cut simple threads...
  11. Oh and as for the caliper bracket bolts, 1/2" impact tight with lots of red locktite worked fine.
  12. Has his kits changed over the last 5 years, I had none of these issues. As you can see my castle nut fit fine, as did my calipers...
  13. Probably one of the best improvements I've made all around. Made the headers clear the fuel pump by a wide margin. No fuel boiling issues and the the stock heat shield fit back into place.
  14. Just an FYI, I tried a similar cheap HVLP gun when I shot the doors of my panel (see pictures earlier in this thread). Though it did work well for the price, I returned to my Binks when I shot the body as it laid the paint smoother. That said, if I was only planning on painting 1 car here and there the cheap HVLP gun can't be beat for the price.
  15. Marc - If you're willing to experiment a little on a test panel, you could try a product called "Japan Dryer" with acrylic enamel. I use Valspar hardener with the acrylic enamel I shoot, also thinned with acetone. The Japan Dryer should reduce the gloss a little
  16. @MarcDeSoto Hello Marc, I recently painted my 56 panel with acrylic enamel and hardener (won't say which brand to avoid controversy) with Nason acrylic urethane clear. Painted a few cars like this over the years with good results. It has the 'enamel' look I think you're after with the resiliency of the urethane clear. I used an inflatable booth and had good results. Right out of the booth After cut and buff Not the "wet" look of urethane but a nice enamel shine look.
  17. My understanding about inverters it they can put out a "dirty" sign wave which sensitive electronics usually don't like. Ignition modules are very sensitive which is why you shouldn't use mechanical voltage regulators or non resistor plugs/wires with them. Nothing wrong with points in either a 6v or 12v vehicle with proper coil primary resistance on the 12v systems. Only issue I see is off-shore point / condenser sets, lots of issues with those noted on the HAMB. With 12v, the slant 6 conversion and a GM module is very reliable if you wish to go to electronic ignition, Pertronix not so reliable. They almost always crap out exactly like the OP described. New Mopar control boxes also seem to suffer from the off-shore blues. Could use a Ford TFI module if you want but they had reliability issues since the 80s. Could also use an MSD 6 box triggered by points or almost any module, but that's more aftermarket parts not always available on the road.
  18. Putting your dwell readings aside, most of the Petronix modules I've tossed crapped out between 1-2 years. If you're already 12v, I would change over to the slant 6 conversion with a GM 4 pin module and keep the Petronix coil. Bullet proof and replacement parts are everywhere. Just a thought... EDIT: In my experience, I would sometimes see fluctuating timing at idle when the modules were on their last leg along with higher RPM missfires.
  19. With that mill don't waste time or money on modifying the stock axle. You are in 8.75, 8.8 Ford or 9" Ford territory, don't cut corners at the rear axle... Probably spend less $$$$ putting something better in verses trying to strengthen what's there, not to mention ample gear, carrier and other parts availability.
  20. Sorry if I read your last paragraph incorrectly, but if you're going through the trouble of clipping a car, I would go with something more modern than a 50s front clip. Here is on I did on my 47, has all the characteristics you are trying to achieve plus a lot more.
  21. I enjoy the ride my stock shock set up gives me on my 49, but to each their own. 70-75 MPH, no problem even on California roads.
  22. I prefer the spacers with their own lug studs. If you jack the car up by the frame, the rear will will drop enough to get it out from under the fender easily. That's how I do it on my lowered 49 with 8" wide rear rims.
  23. I used the factory Lean Burn coil on my son's 82 D150 when I de-lean burned it. Runs great In the picture you can see the HEI module tucked away, the old regulator is gutted and now houses all my relays.
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